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Everything posted by mark_biddle

  1. Very cool build, like it a lot but my OCD has the better of me and I have to post. You have a water cooling radiator just above the fans for the air cooled engine ............ Again please ignore it is just me being picky, I like it a lot.
  2. I had the same issue and got hold of some schumacher mini pin spikes and they were loads better than the tamiya kit ones. If you are happy with the b44's go for it, hard to imagine a worse tyre then was on it !
  3. Have you thought about spots on the bonnet ? Used to be THE way they were mounted back in the day
  4. I used to put tie wraps around the wishbones to keep them spreading apart as the ball sockets wear (early ones were alloy as opposed to steel so wore even quicker). Tight enough to hold the "slop" to a minimum but loose enough for the suspension to do its thing,
  5. I have used it and I would say out of the 3 pics the Abarth is the closest match to what it looks like "in the flesh"
  6. I hate to say it but I have not run it .... I use cats for running, just sold a K2 to make way for an L1. I will leave others on here to answer that one for you !
  7. I like doing non box art. I have a white impact with a twist on paint. Go for the hotshot look, it will look great
  8. Yes, I agree not too strong, but with the grill attached and screwed to this corner as in the manual it should not be too bad. I have a few shells and it seems the grills flap in the wind without these corners !
  9. Front upper arms are RCH. They made lower ones and the uprights that hold the 3 tubes as well. Nice find !
  10. Yes I agree, the higher the better. I was thinking about having something printed with a "step" so you could saw the body in a line and then just glue the new part on, rather than having to blend the new part in, but I am too hopeless to be able to do this !
  11. I dont have a 3d printer and never tried it so pardon me if this seems stupid. I have a few Rangers and Blackfoot's and a common problem with the bodyshells is the front wing lower corners getting snapped off. I have "moved" some across sheels to make a good one etc but hard to actually find the usual broken off bit. How hard/is it feasable to 3d print them ? Pic attached of the area I am talking about.
  12. That is such a cool car, seen it in the flesh a few times at different shows and is even better in the flesh IMHO. I hope a UK buyer gets it and keeps it over here and carries on showing it and does not lock it away. Amazing how fit and finish has come along now. Door straps are a bit of webbing wrapped around the roll cage and doors are bare with a bit of ally pop riveted on. A 919 is not finished like that ........
  13. I think RC is same as 1:1 cars, the modern stuff is head and shoulders over the old stuff and it is mainly in the suspension (think Rally cars, Group B and WRC similar power but modern cars soooo much quicker and a lot is suspension and transmission). I have a few Tamiya kits and good fun, but I have a RC10B6D that I use on a field near me with short grass. The RC10 is leagues ahead of any Tamiya I have. If I go to the field with the kids I would take a Blackfoot or similar to "play" with but if I go by myself I always take the RC10. It rides the bumps so much better and I feel I get so much more out of using that and learn more than I ever will with Tamiyas bouncing around all over the place, and I am not picking on Tamiya, I love them, just think they are at a different level. I don't race and never have done but the RC10 I love and I have just bought a Cat L1 for 4WD as I feel the modern stuff is that much better. As has been said above probably best to save up and keep the Top Force but if you do get a B6 I don't think you will be disappointed.
  14. Sanwa Gemini can be had for a decent price as well.
  15. As the title says, either built or new I don't mind, as for a runner. Thanks, Mark.
  16. I use a household hot glue gun. Put some glue round the wheel, then put the tyre on, pop the whole lot in the oven for a while so the glue re-melts and sets nicely. A lot easier to change tyres then when they wear out.
  17. Hi I was thinking of getting a lipo for my bronco to get longer run time. I have a look about and all the lipos I see have square cases. The battery holder on a CR01 has chamfered sides for NiMh so my question is are there any lipos the same shape as "normal" batteries or am I going to have to get the dremmel out .....
  18. Hello all, I have nearly finished restoring an old hotshot and am after the following if anybody can help - one rear driveshaft One red wheel "hex" Pair rear wheels set of 4 tyres Body and wing Battery tray Y piece. Used is preferable as the car is used but not totally trashed. Dont want to put re-re bits on it. Thanks in advance !
  19. Hi Kev, I was after one of these a while ago but could not find one so I gave up. You used to be able to get alloy ones on ebay but the seller no longer lists them. I cant remember who it was, anybody on here ? If so would they consider making another batch ?
  20. Or you could use the rere FAV cage that is black. That tends to go with most colour combo's and wont show up scrapes like a painted cage ? Just another option.
  21. Hello I am building an M05 and dont like the wheels in the kit. I am trying to get some wheels like the pic below, but I have no idea what other wheels fit ? Any ideas chaps and chapesses ?
  22. I have been restoring a lola can am 58021 for years and am so close to finishing now it hurts. I got a few bits recently and the only things left now are the three alloy body posts. 2 rear and 1 front. If anybody has these and wants to sell it would make me very happy ! Not sure if they are same as any other model, I have had a look and can't see any obvious models with same ones.
  23. Cant you use aerosol and just spray paint into a container and use that to paint with ? I gave up trying to find PC paints in pots ages ago ....
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