mark_biddle

Also on the 1:1 cars the Group A/WRC had different front wings. The Group A was flared whereas the WRC wing is much more "sculptured" around the top of the wheel. I had a Tamiya WRC and I was going to cut the wings about to make it more authentic. Then I realised I did not have the skill or the dedication ..... Pic of WRC wing for ref -

Would have been better if Wendy was driving ......

In this months Motorsport magazine (UK edition, green heading with GT40 on the cover) there is a 3 page story on Mr Tamiya and some nice pics.

Nothing to do with me, but there are some tyres for sale on here - http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=120299

Thorp did make some, better made -

Are you using re-re brat/frog wishbones ? They seem to be made of plastic that flexes a lot more than the originals. I had this problem. I ended up getting rid of the CRP set up and used the CVD Frog hop-ups instead. Not had a problem since.

Liek a lot of UK people I have used P38 for years on 1:1 cars. One thing I do when using it on small areas is drop a small amount of cellulose thinners to it. It makes it a bit smoother any "runny-er". It is a lot easier to sculpt like this I think and gives a nicer finish.

What about Rad22 alloys ? He does all the SS/RR/Ranger wheels and are great. I am sure if you ask nicely he could knock some up.

I have a thorp diff in my runner blackfoot. If you use the standard counter gear, this becomes the weak link in the chain. Yes you can use it, but if you use the car hard it will strip fairly quickly. As regards the hubs, again you can use standard ones, but the thorp ones do not have a hole drilled in them, but intead clamp around the spindle so you can pull it tight into the trailing arm and reduce slop. Hope that helps.

Hello Ladies and Gents, Well clue is in the title. I bought a few cars as a job lot and this was in with it. One pair of shocks are Avante, so will be keeping those, but have no idea what this is. Wheels are Clod size. I will be looking to sell it if anybody is interested.

Thanks. I have had a look on the web, and the Inferno's I can find all have the engine on the other side to this car. Not sure it is a Kyosho ....

Hello, I am more into the old electric stuff and have been offered the below. I have no idea what it is and what it is worth. Can anybody identify this and a rough price. Many thanks ! Mark.

Thanks, I will have to get on the bay and have a dig around !

Hello all, I have nearly finished my Blackfoot but need some dampers. I have put a few trick bits on it like CRP, esc, big motor etc so want some nice alloy oil filled ones, not your usual plastic trash. Anybody know of anything that will fit ? The closest I can find at moment is Traxxas ones, but they are 9cm centre to centre (I need 8cm) and springs are way to stiff (probably IC). Many thanks, Mark.

I think it all depends why you are doing it in the first place. I am building a Cobra kit car replica. It has the same looks as the original, has modern suspension/brakes etc. I can take it on a track and have fun in it without worrying about replacing hard to find parts. I would love an original Cobra, but would I get as much pleasure from having it sitting in the garage and be scared everytime I took it out ? Same with the R/C cars I think. It is nice to have the original, but the re re's are usable and look the same, but are ultimately replaceable.

Thanks very much, I am not sure what they are glued on with, I didn't build the car. I don't want to go the brake fluid route at mom, as if it trashes the chrome, the parts will be u/S so might as well just break them off and hope for the best !

Hello gents, I am new to the forum and am in process of restoring my SS. It has all the body parts, door handles, indicators, wipers, badge etc but it was hand painted and I want to airbrush it. How do I get these glued on bits off without damaging them ? Many thanks. Mark.