J3cubfan

Correct me if I am wrong, but I think that you could do that with the speed controller on the Holiday buggy. IIRC, this was a somewhat variable speed mechanical controller. Its been 20years since I drove some so my memory is a bit rusty... John quote: Originally posted by WillyChang "Brake" on the ESC uses back-EMF of the motor to provide the stopping ie it shorts the motor out via a brake MOSFET. The FET can be on permanently, partially or even pulsed (which the marketing drones call "antilock"). There are some (albeit rare) MSCs that also have braking instead of reverse. id="quote">id="quote">

Oh Oh let me bid... Ah shucks its too late. And I was looking for one of those, not![]

When I restored mine earlier this year, the rolling chassis cost me about $50. I brought a NIB chassis as the front tab has a nasty habit of breaking off during normal use and certainly during a crash. The NIB chassis ran me about $45. Grasshopper parts are pretty cheap and theres usually a plentiful bounty of them out there... John quote:Originally posted by BibboI've just got a NIB body set for one of these old Pajero's. It's coming with a used bare chassis. I want to find a rolling chassis to make a car up. How much do they normally go for? id="quote">id="quote">

How do you post a picture to this forum?[?][?]

Ugh! Fat fingers. Forget the prior post. I finished rebuilding one of these earlier this year and let me dispell some of the myths. The 1984 Pajero came with its own chassis. Not lunchbox, not Midnight Pumpkin, it had its own chassis. As for commonality, it does share the same trany and many suspension part with the grasshopper and frog. The wheels and tires are the same as whats on the Ford Ranger. I sold mine to a bloke in the Netherlands in order to finance and help offset the costs of my current projects.[8D] quote:Originally posted by aaronmiheHi everyone, Just wondering how common parts are for the orginal Pajero offroader from around 1984? There's one on e-bay I have a passing interest in - it needs work and a lot of it - but I think it'd be cool. Is it a similar chassis to the XC chassis? Is it indeed the XC? Aaron id="quote">id="quote">

quote:Originally posted by aaronmiheHi everyone, Just wondering how common parts are for the orginal Pajero offroader from around 1984? There's one on e-bay I have a passing interest in - it needs work and a lot of it - but I think it'd be cool. Is it a similar chassis to the XC chassis? Is it indeed the XC? Aaron id="quote">id="quote">

Hey Jim: Do you know how these things stack up against the Tamiya's?

I've some of these come up on ebay from time to time and was curious if they have the same quality as Tamiya. John

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=1790150809

Congratulations Kendall, best of luck.[] quote:Originally posted by KendalboatsmanMy Winter time will be spent finishing the decorating, we bought house in july, also finalising Wedding Arrangements[] and if I have time building the Wild Willy 2 that Santa is bringing[8D]. I have started rebuilding my TL01 CLK D2 with Hop Ups, hope to finish that job. Then I have a TA02W Nismo Clarion to rebuild, also with Hop Ups. Need a Nismo Clarion body set if any one has a spare lurking in the darkest depths of their cupboard[?]id="red"> id="quote">id="quote">

Autographed! My bet is ~ $2500 to $3000.

Someone could make a killing buy purchasing these and making reproduced graphics. Especially the Blazing Blazer. These are rarer(sp) than hens teeth... They could re-coup their investment with a couple of sheets.

LOL, you don't get much realistic than that. Although, I don't think that the Toyota Trucks leaked oil much[] quote:Originally posted by ShodogMine is noisy to. at one point I put STP oil treatment in it. This stuff is a thick oil viscosity enhancer. It really quieted the tranny but since mine isn't sealed with silicon. The stuff leaked out over 8 months. I had to keep a pie pan under the truck just like a real car. id="quote">id="quote">

I don't have the Tamiya spray paint, but have the Tamiya bottle paints, so I give those a try.. Thanks again for the info... John

Tamiyas are non yellowing. Just stay away from Testors Gloss. If its a white paintjob, you most certainly will see "yellowing" within a couple of years[xx(]. Another good one is "Gunze-Sangno"(sp)? I've seen many of guys use this on their aircraft models and it looks good even after 10 years. Just stay away from the Testors stuff....[]

I am going to be gettting ready to paint my restored Grasshopper, then off my SS. Since both of these are hard bodies, what is the best paint for spraying these bodies? I know for my 1/48 scale aircraft, I use Testors Model Master through an airbrush. Are there any quality paints out there on the market that would give a premium finish? John

Good Question tough choice.... Hmmm. My top three would come from three different continents. 1. Dodge Viper R/S V-10 USA - Lotsa Power!!! 2. Porsche 959 AWD DE - I've always loved this car!!! 3. Datsun 240Z w/6pk carbs Japan - My Dad had one. Although this would have to be mint mint mint. They have a very nasty habit of rusting out.[8D]

That's got to be the nicest paint job I've seen in a long time.

Tha's pretty amazing that they where able to fit that thing in the back of the Chevy P/U. Cool picture....[8D]

You can always collect as a means to achieving an end. I've rebuilt two Tamiya's car and have sold them so that I could offset the cost of getting one that I always wanted. I always wanted a 4wd Tamiya, but wasn't going to spend major $$ for a new Hi-Lux or Bruiser. So I settled on a Isuzu Mu. Quite happy with as a result. As for switching radio gear, I agree with what the forum says to an extent. The receivers however should be associated with one car and one car only. Call me crazy, but I feel that too much handling will cause something to break. I feel that why about an ESC as well. The transmitter the only component IMHO that you can get away with doing this.... John

Hi Willy: thanks for the insight. so you think that the torque splitter is not worth the investment? After reading your post, it makes sense that the inner wheel would track shorter versus the outside wheel during a turn. That's where your differential would come into play. thanks again for the tip. John

Ahhh I see.[8)] Ok, I'll try the lock option on the car once, if ever comes time for assembling this thing. I can't wait but have to finish a couple of other projects first.[]

You guys mention something called a "lock-out" option on the XC vehicles. Is this a switch that you can "switch" over during operations or is it a option during assembly? John

This is the "MU on-road" and thats probably where I end up driving it. Thanks again for the information guys, I sure do appreciate it.[] What I am most curious is how this thing will act on slippery surfaces such as ice and litely snow covered asphalt roads ie parking lots. I will probably invest in a torque splitter after the first of the year. John

quote:Originally posted by TamiyaRacerThe beer cans on the Bruiser seat is worth something extra ... id="quote">id="quote">That's pretty funny. I didn't see that.[8D]