mr_lister999.
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Everything posted by mr_lister999.
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Best remove that link as there should be no links to live auctions.
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This is good!!
mr_lister999. replied to TWINSET's topic in Off-Site sales plugs, tips & gossip - Including eBay, Gumtree etc.
I think this is just one of those times that you say forget it and get on with your life. I know its a pain but if they do anything now they wont later, its not in their interest. Just remember next time to use another company, its their loss. -
Stick packs are a pain in the backside to make. I used de-soldering braid but the pack comes out a bit longer than a shop bought one which means it doesnt fit in some cars. I just thought blow the expence and bought some stick packs. Just did a bit of overtime at work which actually meant less work than modify the packs! I know that doesnt help you but i,m ok []
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quote:I pushed a little harder and SQUIRT! The oil suddenly disappeared. A couple of seconds later, it dripped onto the assembly manual, all over my hands, and in my hair. Yuk! id="quote">id="quote"> Been there, done that, its not nice stuff to clean out of your hair. Its really surprising how high it goes for such little effort. That reminds me of a film called "Something about Mary" If you have seen it you will know what i mean. Oh, is that hair gel? [^][8)]
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I used the super rooster with great results. Everybody i know who has one chucked their evx in favour of it! I never had an evx because it was a second hand maxx with a brand new super rooster as the evx got fried by the last owner.
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well after reading all that i decided on a new 2.5 tmaxx. LOL [] I have done an online order and hope its in stock. I havent heard anything to say its not so fingers crossed. If its in stock i have plans for snetterton. [8D]
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vintage RC car action mags and tamiya catalogues
mr_lister999. replied to wakeup76's topic in Trade Archive
more scans for the club maybe? -
Don't know if this has been posted so here goes...
mr_lister999. replied to J3cubfan's topic in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
I run a reasonable mtroniks one in mine and no problems encountered. Plus its waterproof so keeps the idea of the "waterproof" box alive. We all know the water gets in anyway but there you go. [] -
I never knew threadlock would eat plastic, i have been trying to get some to hold the screws in on my top force. Just as well you told me as if it didnt say on the bottle i would have a melted car []
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What about "threadlock"?
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Generally the best time to buy is summer as people use their money to go on holiday, buy a new car or start a diy project or something similar. Winter, especially christmas time is the dearest generally speaking. This is only a rough rule as it only takes 2 people that really want am item for the price to rocket.
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Anyone noticed there are no sane people here in the outside world forum? Heck, there are no sane people on Tamiyaclub since we are mad about "toy cars" (as other non believers call them) Why do people think we are crazy when we tell them our toys can cost between £500-£1000 each? Come to think of it they are right! (Now thats a scary though [] ) Now talking dogs, spirits, and kamakazi squirrels! Where did i leave that roll of rubber wallpaper...
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quote:Here we pay 695 euros for the car (naked) id="quote">id="quote">You are forced to by rc stuff in the nude??? Must mean sales are non existant in the winter [] Plus, out of interest, where do you put the change [8)] Seriously though, thanks for all your advice guys.
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I was a Yok owner but a year of hard racing sent it to the scrapyard in the sky. Strangly enough i wore it out, i never actually broke it, must have been made of cheaper materials, or maybe it was just my bad driving[]. It was only the yr42 sport so for £90 new it did the job. That was the car after my TA03, my 1st rc car (i had a scorcher and rough rider buggy 1st though [])
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Anyone any ideas on ways to keep the motor in the topforce cool? I have have cut away the top of the housing and that has helped alot. I have also put a heatsink on the motor near the endbell. There must be something else i can do as its still too hot by the end of my 3300mah pack of cells. I am running a top spec 27 turn stock motor from trinity "Revenge of the monster pro" Fantastic performance but at the end of the run it starts to overheat since all the motor housing is plastic. Yes i know it was never meant to have such high capacity batteries in etc but i am creating a highly modified one with all the trimmings. Light weight diffs, gear shafts, all universals bearings, heck, even light weight kingpins (1 gram lighter each!) [] (Must get around to ordering all the titanium steering rods at some point) Any suggestion would be apreciated. I dont mind cutting stuff up or making modifications but i just that 1st idea to get me going.
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True enough. Just that i wouldnt pay that for used glass but other people are perfectly happy with that price. If thats what people want to spend their money on then great, especially from the sellers point of view. I personally have never had a yellow glassed scorcher. All the ones i bought were clear. Is yellowing a common problem then? I suppose it must be the light.
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Only in America... []
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Just checked out ebay.co.uk and missed this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...7&category=1200 I cant believe that used glass would get that amount. I would have thought £30 for new in box would still be high. A zero feedback sunglasses bidder though so who knows. Just wanted to share that one incase it gets removed before you see it.
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PC techniical help urgently needed.
mr_lister999. replied to mr_lister999.'s topic in Anything not RC related goes here
I love playing whacked. For a £20 new game its well worth it. Single player is not great but multiplayer is the best. Still lots more to try yet. -
quote:hmm 1 in 6 years, I have just had 4 go in 2 months!id="quote">id="quote">Well i say i only blew one but a mate borrowed one anf fried it by connecting the battery wrongly [] He had never seen a corally gold connector before only ever tamiya plugs. Still, he gave me the going rate for a second hand one so not a total loss. I think it was the m troniks sport maxx. It was the one with no motor limit and reverse.
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Hi mate. Just a pointer for the future its best to give a little description in your post just so we know why to look at it. Something like "check out my auction for my treasured monster beetle" It just lets people know what to expect. (Why is it when i post advice to people it always comes across like me moaning or being picky? I can never word it right [:I]) Anyway, i take it you are the seller as the name is similar. If you are not the seller then its best not to post a link as people get upset as they think it changes prices. (true or not i dont know) Anyway, good luck in selling it.
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quote:If you are prone to connecting up wrongly, perhaps it might be an idea to install a fuse & diode on the power input leads. If wrongly connected the diode conducts and blows the fuse before any damage occurs.id="quote">id="quote">No, 1st one i have done in 6 years. Got distracted for a second and then i smelt it... [:I]
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how to clean ball bearings
mr_lister999. replied to turbocharged s15(2)'s topic in General discussions
A tool i have heard of is a called a "bearing blaster". Basically you force new grease in and the old out with a sort of press thing. Under £10 i have seen them for. I never got around to getting one as for racing super thin oil is better than grease thats too thick for ultra high performance. Not really an issue for normal driving though.
