mr_lister999.

Hi frazer, its me again. Looking forward to getting that avante from your friend, i just hope it arrives here quickly, fingers crossed! He seems like a good guy, at least he mails back very fast as alot of people just seem to bother. I was either bringing a tent or was just going to have a quick 40 winks in the car. There wont be any time sleep anyway what with all that racing, trading and having a laugh.

Got mine from modelsport.co.uk. I have been looking for one new since November but every shop was sold out same day they got them. Funny thing is this place had them (all other shops i phoned sold out) and modelsport had them on special offer! I know you can them from ebay but it was alot of money to risk to a seller with low ish feedback. Cost about £5 more than Ebay in the end so i was really pleased. My emaxx just sits there now, i only have one super rooster and that moved into my top force so my maxx had no control. I removed the 2 stock motors (7.2 Volt) from it for use in the top forces i have. So its off to ebay with it soon. I really recomend chucking the 14.4 volt system and put in two top spec 27 turn stock motors @ £27.50 each. Put in a novak super rooster and the max will fly on one pack, no need for the 2 batteries. Keep the same gearing as the normal motors. They are faster, run cooler and connect 2 packs in parallel and get twice the run time between charges!

quote:I am getting to the point where unless an item is something I desparately need I will only bid on items that accept PayPal. Money orders are a hassle.id="quote">id="quote">Yup, paypal makes life easy. Just hate waiting for cheques to clear.

Nice...

My one was £95 but you can get others cheaper but i wanted something nice. I looked at it i will use it for many years so a bit more money is worth it for a good result. You can even connect it to your pc with a modification they sell which displays full graphs and stats of your pack. True proffesional stuff. Those of you at snetterton are welsome to look at it if you want

I just get a message box saying "class not registered"??? Whats up?

Yes i found the top force ones to be the same but then i had top force which i much preffer. My choice runner for snetterton! If you can get your hands on some of these universals they really are good, nerever broke one or wore them out yet.

I would have thought everybody would bring unwanted stuff along as trading is always good. I myself will bring all my spare bits. I was just goiung to bring a cardboard box and just write on the side "help yourself FREE" or "Trades" or something like that.

The instructions in the tmaxx say to use wd40 is after oil. I never knew that. I am sure i have seen bottles of after run oil in hobby shops but it was quite expensive. Did anyone else know about this?

quote:Now I smell like orange flavored chemicals! id="quote">id="quote">Flavoured! Better go see a hospital straight away! I think you mean scented but never mind []

Told you, so simple cheap an easy. I bet you can buy a product from an rc shop that is just washing up liquid in a fancy bottle. If not, i feel i money making oppertunity coming on! []

quote:Yup, a shock is a shock - once you've got oil shocks, any further gains is marginalid="quote">id="quote">A shock is a shock!, no way Willy i really have to disagree with you on that point. Cheap oil shocks are nasty, they get air in and loose oil. I love those tamiya metal dampers, they are smooth and never leaked in over 2 years of racing. I have the serpent oil shocks on my Xray and i really like them becasue you can adjust the holes in the pistons by just turining the piston rod! Still prefer the tamiya ones for quality though and do feel they work better. If you compare the plastic to metal versions of tamiyas (like the ones in TA03) to the alloy ones then yes, performance difference is very slight. I am a believer in generally you get what you pay for!

Has it always been like that or just recently. I was once given a cheap £10 pack of new cells. They got incredible hot, gave very slow motor running as well. Straight in the bin they went and got a better one. The battery connector on the pack started to melt as well and i only had a tamiya silver can normal motor in my car!

Mine were not fine [] They probably were cracked before i striped them but they fell to pieces when i lifted them out! Rough rider ones were fine though.

Baja champ but buy some universal drive shafts as those plastics ones break after a few jumps. (At least mine did, i broke 3, kept on replaceing them then threw the champ aside and bought a fireblade evo as it was the right price. (That was before i got into classic tamiya though...)

I suppose you probably want to stick the servo down in your scorcher (or whatever). Dont use velcro as the servo moves when you turn. Double sided servo tape is best as that is what it was made to do. Velcro should be used on recievers and speed controls.

quote:suffice to say there are a zillion hop ups available for the SRB id="quote">id="quote"> Why cant i find any for sale in the uk??? Its just not fair []

Ok guys, i havea similar one, just another make. (cs electronic) You set the number of calles on the screen and the cut off voltage you want (0.9V normally) Press the button and away it goes. The heat is transfered to 2 large heatsinks, one on the top, one on the back. They get very hot on full charged 3300 packs! The display then says the capacity, average voltage and shows the voltage at each 100mah interval. It details everything you want to know about your pack. When i compared my normal racing packs to brand new packs it shows why some of the racing guys are so fast on the same equipment. Around 1 volt difference under 20 amp load which is loads of speed lost. I discharged a brand new top spec 3300 pack and the results were fantastic, it showed you do get what you pay for! I ended up buying all new cells when i saw how bad they were. (I also tried my old 7.2 hump battery, lets just say under 20 amp load it fell below cutoff level instantly when fully charged!)

quote:What other parts are out there? id="quote">id="quote"> Basically everything can be changed with i think i part left original. Some other member is bound to know what part. I think it was decided a poor rc10 clone was produced with all the parts but i still i still want them all but can never find any for sale []

quote:And what are they made off?id="quote">id="quote">Plastic, oil, rubber and a metal spring maybe... [] Sorry, couldn't resist that one. [}]

quote:stationary and the picture is great, as soon as you start moving through light and dark areas the picture breaks down - a lotid="quote">id="quote">a simple fix... only drive in the dark []

Never eally thought about removing it but a scrubbing brush and hot water and washing up liquid should work. Dont forget washing up liquid is a degreaser so is really good for cleaning parts in!

What payment methods do you take? I live in the UK. I would be interested in a couple if payment is alright. I hope you take paypal as thats really easy.

Just got the 2.5 tmaxx yesterday. Ran it in this morning and raced it around the local field. Wow, this is one seriously good truck. Just have to tune it now and it should be even better. Just under 10 minutes flat out on one tank which surprised me as i always imagined nitro fuel to be used up quicker and was only expecting about 5 minutes flat out at best! Has anyone else tried this new 2.5 version yet? If so, what are your experiences? According to the tmaxx forum on traxxas a majority of people thought the new engine was useless and they got rid of it in favour of another make. This is my 1st nitro so i would presume its like real cars, you either get a very bad one or a good one. Thanks.

quote:2. The gears in gearbox are all brassid="quote">id="quote">I actually changed the gears to all plastic because of the weight reduction, it did make a noticable improvement in acceleration. I suppose you went brass because they dont get damaged easily. What do you guys think about this gear issue? And what do you use in your scorchers?