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  1. Second test, black and to the left Editing to centre is ok, edited back to include this line Editing top line back to centre ok Editing top line to colour ok Editing 2nd line to centre ok Edit lines 3, 4, 5 to italic
  2. Ok, had a play and could edit the copied post loads of times, but not to include coloured text or to change justification This post was typed in coloured text, central to see if it was possible to create thread in the first place
  3. Edit 2 Edit 3 Edit 4+ Edit 2 Edit 3 Edit 4 Edit 2 Edit 3 Edit 4 Edit 2 Edit 3 Edit 4 OK, just a quick update for now... As you may recall, earlier this year we left Louis Willy trying to work out if he (or any other driver) might be able to climb into the cab - so in that regard, I thought I might have a go at something that I'd seen on other chassis-cab crawlers and truggies, and cut the doors down to reveal more of the interior. Although I was aware that the centre mounted gearbox and motor really precludes including a proper scale interior like I'd managed with Lisa's Defender, I hoped the extra exterior detail coupled with him effectively sitting on top of the bare transmission assembly would ultimately add to the overall industrial/mechanical look of this vehicle?ded photo. I decided to retain the lower panel of each door, to give structural rigidity - not least for the shell mounting holes - and [for now at least] retain some of the weathered paintwork. Since I'd already narrowed the cab by 40mm, I'd concluded that an 'extreme' vehicle like this would most likely have a central driving position anyway (and being 4WS on ultra heavy-duty axles, factored if it were a real 1:1 vehicle the steering would almost certainly have to be hydraulic too - so that's my excuse for the axle mounted servos... ;o), which in turn meant that Willy would actually be able to grab onto the internal roll-cage in a realistic pose: photo. modified bucket seat from a Wild Willy 2 shell. photo. from this angle you can't tell he ain't got no legs below the knees! As you can see it's been quite the squeeze to get the Wild Willy 2 seat and driver in the space between the gearbox and the forward bulkhead/battery, and it has meant he's had to lose his boots (for now at least) - but I think the overall effect is still pretty realistic? note. ultimately having him hanging onto the roll-cage means the driver figure will remain attached to the shell even when it's removed for access/servicing - making things very easy in that regard, especially as currently the shell is only attached with four screws (two along each sill). You may also notice I've incorporated a dashboard too (to help hide the top of the battery) - using a cut-down Wild Willy 2 part and some styrene: ...and fabricated some deep/wide door sills using styrene which mate up inside with the inner wheel-arches - and will ultimately be covered in [genuine] aluminium tread-plate to keep things even more scale and authentic. The other thing I did which is not really obvious in these pictures is to remount the body a couple of mm lower, using some commercially available body mounts from eBay (designed to mate a Trailfinder shell to an SCX10 chassis) which turned out to be a very similar shape to my 2nd generation styrene mock-ups I'd been using previously. Fortunately I can confirm that the tyres still clear the front arches and rear cage rails, even on full articulation and lock - Result! I had also decided to modify the rear cage (sorry, I forgot to take photos of the actual process - but basically, using a Stanley knife, heat-gun and Dr. Dremel) so that there is less overhang at the rear - while retaining the full length of the alloy deck panels that come as part of the Vaterra rear cage kit. Obviously there is still a lot of finishing to do - fabricating some door jams, plus I have some padded roll-cage tubes I want to incorporate as horizontal bars halfway up the door apertures... Then I need to properly secure Willy in the cab and touch in all the paintwork; and also finalise my plan for a rear fuel tank to fill in the space between the cage deck and the chassis rails. Ultimately, I also intend to add a few scale accessories to the interior and rear deck of the vehicle, although keeping in mind that it's primary function is as an actual crawler, everything will need to remain well tucked in and properly secured in the event of a roll-over. However, for the next few weeks I'm actually going to be busy moving house - so for the time being, Desmond has been boxed up for transit - turns out he's now exactly 12x18 inches! All these latest mods have re-inspired me to get going on this particular project again, so stand-by for more just as soon as I can... Jenny x
  4. Thanks for all your ideas so far it has been a great help. The monster Beetle shocks sounds like the better option. Please keep them coming. Many thanks to everyone for all your Info. Cheers :-) 2018
  5. Please could anyone help, I am currantly restoring a Lunch box which is alomst done. I need help, The shocks i have got are old and rusty just wondering if their is any other options than just the standard springs. I know about the Supershot shocks fit just wondering if any one has any ideas . Cheers Madd Monster[]
  6. Hey Stefan Does this printer print 'white' or do you use white decal paper?
  7. All the credit to Twinset Links for video Large version (7 Mb) http://www.kerm1t.btinternet.co.uk/SUB_7mb.WMV Small version (3.5 Mb) http://www.kerm1t.btinternet.co.uk/SUB_3mb.WMV
  8. Could anyone let me know how much a Tamiya Clod Buster Orignal NIB shell with all the chrome parts it has the Chevie badge as well []. Test for thread about editing 30/11/2018
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