blackd0g

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About blackd0g

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  1. blackd0g

    Top Force CVD's?

    Has anyone tried using CVD's on the Top Force? If so, which size are they, or from which car? [?]
  2. blackd0g

    Removing Paint from clear plastic bodies

    I have had great success with brake fluid. Soak the body in brake fluid overnight (or sometimes longer) and the paint will come off easily, depending on the paint thickness. Don't worry about minor scratches or "frosting" of the inside of the lexan body, they will be inconspicuous after being painted over. []
  3. Tricked out Blazing Star wins first ever buggy on-road race for charity in Bahrain!!! The Tamiya 1/10 Blazing Star is hopped-up with ball diffs, torque splitter, s/s propeller shaft, adjustable turnbuckles, heavy duty ball cups, Associated shocks, Pro-Line Road Rage tires on Kyosho rims, Tamiya C.P.R. Unit P-100F ESC, Reedy MVP stock motor with Trinity heat sink, and a "fiery" body. The BS won over a Kyosho Ultima. Pics are here... The resistor is just there to fill in the opening on the body. If you want to read about it... http://www.cowi-almoayed.com.bh/images/BS_wins.jpg That's me with the TRF (specially stickered for the race) Blazing Star on the right (top photo) and at the left (bottom photo).
  4. blackd0g

    Top Force or Evolution

    hi Edge, Yeah, Kyoshos are quite popular over there, specially nitros, V-One S and V-One R. If you're planning on racing, if you don't know yet, there's a track at Creek Park Gate 2, built by Kyosho, managed by Hobby Centre. I personally go for electrics (because of the lack of a LHS and nitro fuel). Importing nitro can be a real hassle. Some guys are opening a Kyosho shop one of these days. Maybe I will go into nitro then.
  5. blackd0g

    Top Force or Evolution

    Between the thw 100th and the 107th, the Evo is the way to go. You may be lucky to find one in Dubai (try Toys R Us). We managed to get a few TF bodies from there. BTW I am based in Bahrain, so we're just "neighbors".
  6. blackd0g

    Who collects the 1/32nd scale cars???

    Tamiya also has remote controlled versions of these sprinters. Only the throttle can be remotely controlled, just like the slot cars, so that they don't run off the track when going around corners. And there are sooooo many hop-ups for these little ******s. I wouldn't be surprised if they catch on. They were a hit in the Far East.
  7. blackd0g

    Who collects the 1/32nd scale cars???

    If you are referring to the Mini 4WDs, I wouldn't say they go so slow. I have a couple, an Egress (very old circa '92, needs new tires though) and a more recent Knuckle Breaker Black Special. Even with just two AA's and a fast Ultra Dash motor, the Black Special sprints well, even faster than their 1/10 brothers. I guess it's the power-to-weight ratio. Collecting the older ones that have their bigger 1/10 brother would be a nice. I keep the 1/32 Egress to join its 1/10 counterpart in my collection. I suggest you try them out. They are supposed to be run on a pre-built track. Without a track, they just go wild!!! Lots of fun watching them. There was a Hotshot and an Avante 2001 at eBay recently, just ended today or yesterday.
  8. blackd0g

    most difficult body to paint

    quote: We skipped the whole masking bit and just painted everything by hand. Tamiya's white and blue PC paints cover pretty well, and with about 3-4 coats no brushmarks will show. There was no benefit imho in using the airbrush, takes too long for those wide expanses. Imho Tamiya X18 SemiGlossBlack looks the best for the vents. Used Tamiya's silver PaintMarker for the bonnet bits and the tail vent's surround. Taillights used X-orange and X-red, works better than original idea of clear red/orange + silver backing. The white bit in front can be glossy, it looks fine. This was actually the easiest part to paint by hand. When handpainted from the inside, the rib is the perfect brush guide for a #2 brush. Ugh, decals leave something to be desired and its corners can lift over time. Some bodies look better with the window frames hand painted black instead of the stickers - also makes subsequent body masking a lot easier. id=quote>id=quote> PandaBear! For Christmas, I'll wish for skills like yours.
  9. blackd0g

    most difficult body to paint

    the outside painting for the 959 are mainly the front air grills and the sump guard. I figure that the air grills are supposed to have a flat (matt) finish to be realistic. Also the sump guard (I guess) must be matt, obviously the sump guard does not have a glossy finish like the real car body. the windshield trimming and the roof light rubber base must then also be matt. IMO, it would be more realistic to paint the body as the manual says. then again, it is also difficult to paint everything on the inside. try masking the black trimming around the windshield. Whew! Tamiya was popular with scale model kits before it was with R/C kits. They have adopted their realistic quality with scale models to lexan bodies of the R/C cars. Also IMO, Tamiya makes the best detailed lexan bodies, consequently the most difficult to paint. Even the tailights on the 959 have to be painted on instead of a decal. Fortunately these days, Tamiya lexan bodies require only one color, the rest is taken care of by the decals. it's a real deal getting the airbrush around bends when painting the 959. good luck martin.
  10. which is the most difficult tamiya rc body did you ever paint? mine's the porsche 959 paris-dakar. the body details are great but getting masking tape around them is a real task.
  11. blackd0g

    Speeding up paint drying...

    for lexan bodies, I leave mine under a reading lamp with a 60watt bulb. I can finish a body in about 3 hours, flames and all with no problems with drying. I just leave the finished body overnight to dry. For runner bodies, I spray on two coats of polyurethane for extra toughness. when using polycarbonate paints (like the Tamiya PC), there is no problem painting over a layer even if it is not fully dry. The paint must be just dry enough to pull out masks without pulling the paint along the edges with it.
  12. blackd0g

    Modern Motors?

    opps! I meant 10-12 turns.
  13. blackd0g

    Modern Motors?

    The lower the number of turns, the higher the RPM. The Reedy MVP Stock motor about $30 is a good bet, with a 2400mAH battery, you can run a buggy for about 10-15 minutes. My tuned MVP runs about 5 minutes with a 1500mAH on a Blazing Star on asphalt. Today's stock motors run almost like modifieds. The Blazing Star runs real good (good speed and torque) on a 19 turn double modified using 20-tooth pinion. For cheap modifieds, try Trinity Speed Gems. BThe stock class belongs to the MVP. The choice of motors (turns and winds) depends on what type of car you are running --- buggy, touring, truck? On a toruing car I go as low as 8 turns, but only down to 101-2 turns on a buggy.
  14. blackd0g

    I found one!!!

    I would say, build it and keep it on display.
  15. blackd0g

    Pinion Gears

    BB, the Avante has similar gearbox workings with the Egress. I have an Egress, and it uses 48 pitch METRIC pinions. Emphasis on "METRIC" If you will use it for running, better get ones from Robinson Racing Products, made of hardened aluminum, T6 aircraft I think. But if for restoring, Tamiya pinions then.