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About Nicadraus

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  1. You can use acrylic or polyurethane automotive paints. I use polyurethane on both hard shells and polycarbonate with no problems. Cheaper, you can mix colors, shinier finish and more durable too.
  2. Just get another set on ESC/motor combo to save you from the hassle of transferring them from time to time in case you want to run the XV-01 again. No need to extend wires too. Combos are very heap now. Also, upgrade your battery to Lipo and ditch the NiMh batt. Longer run time, better life span too.
  3. Some people look at it weird but I honestly found the IFS interesting as it's very similar to push rod system found on F1 cars, Le Mans and some supercars. In my FF-03 kits, I have installed 0.5mm spacers in the Pro-R's rockers (both ends). The spacer makes shorter travel for the damper as well as making it stiffer. The RR didn't need it because I wanted a longer travel for the shocks.
  4. Joined rally race today. I didn't win any trophy but it was all fun. I finished 4th overall on the stock rally car class. My car was the only FWD, the rest were 4WD (XV-01, TT-02, TA-02, TA-03)
  5. When I had a Frog (converted from Brat) back in the 80s, I always wanted to improve the suspension. I replaced the rear shocks with the auluminum but the springs were too hard while the fron suspension was too soft. I thought of doing something similar to this but didn't have the resources (lack of materials, tools). It's nice to see this and it works. Good job!
  6. Under chassis of both cars as requested by @ThunderDragonCy Pro-R's under chassis is untouched RR (cut and shaved about 5mm both front and rear parts of the chassis to allow more droop) Pro-R (top, RR (bottom)
  7. The TB-05 comes with spur gear and pinion cover by the way. So that's safe from debris. But like Juls said, the XV-01 is made for rally. Although I have an FF-03 converted to rally version, it's very balanced and drives like a charm on and off road.
  8. It's possible since the TB05 uses shaft. But you will probably have to do some minor shaving under the chassis to allow more droop to extend ride height. Then upgrade to longer shocks (60-65mm) for longer damping play.
  9. Saw this in RCTech. Looks like it's been set up for rally With a lot of hop ups too. Looks very nice.
  10. The only solution is to adjust the body post holes on the shell. Acording to your picture, there is still little space to move, about 2mm. Then put a piece of lexan/polycarbonate under the shell to serve as a stopper for the body posts. this will keep the body from moving back and forth. I'll post some pics soon.
  11. Same here. They should just make a tub chassis for it if rallying is their intention for this conversion. I've seen a few kits using brass now instead of aluminum. While it is heavy and may be helpful in balancing, brass is softer and malleable compared to aluminum and is likely to deform easily. Especially using it for rally as suspension blocks which absorb a lot of vibration, shock and movement.
  12. I've painted two of my bodies with polyurethane paints (acrylic based). Works well with polycarbonate as well as anything. You need to dilute it in thinner and do a proper mixture. Mixture doesn't always have to be in the same volume. It depends on the application and surface material.
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