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Nicadraus

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About Nicadraus

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  1. As I mentioned, it depends on the type of paint you use and method. Acrylic is mixed and applied differently from urethane and different from waterborne (water based). Urethane for example, the catalyst is very important because it bonds the paint even better making it stronger. Number of layers/coast will also depend on the panel's size and area. Of course, the top coat will be lessened every time sanding is made but this is only necessary for paint correction. So proper paint volume mixture, layering and number of coats also vary on the process which the correction will depend if needed or not. Also paint mix volume and thickness will vary on the spray gun/air brush used. This is coming from a person who has experience in both painting (hobby and professional) and detailing (finishing included).
  2. I'm using DCJ on one of my FF-03 and universal on the other FF-03. The DCJ is smoother and no play.
  3. This is true. Got FF-03 Pro, first plan was to upgrade a "little" which eventually became an "R" version and then some more. I bought the kit(s) at $200 which wasn't bad to be honest. A Pro and a full stock kit. But spent over $450 on upgrades on both kits. Oh well, at least I'm happy and satisfied. Also, it was a slow build (more than a year so it didn't hurt my wallet that much). Anyway, I learned my lesson. My next build will be a TB-04R. It's more expensive than the Pro/Pro 2 but the goodies that comes with the box kit is just amazing. Lots of concealed hop ups not shown in the picture like double cardan front shafts, aluminum suspension mounts, front spool, and a lot more.
  4. Thanks! The 3Racing and Yeah Racing counterparts says they are 4.8mm and not 5mm like Tamiya is using.
  5. Anyone knows the part number for the TRF420 ball cups and connectors? I'm really digging it. I'd like to order them and replace the ones in my kits. Looks like this...
  6. Yeah you could PM @netsmithUK.
  7. To the OP, No need to make multiple threads of the exact topic you know.
  8. Yes you can now. Adjust the turnbuckles to achieve that.
  9. Wow! I would have gone with some parts from Yeah Racing if it was me to save up you know. Some parts from YR are even better designed and quality is just the same for half the price and sometimes even lesser. But as long as you're happy, that's fine. Congrats and show us the build soon.
  10. It's really amazing how the double-cardan joints perform and makes the steering worry free.
  11. Another good brand is SPT. the SPT 4412lv. I have 2 of these and they are good as well. Even faster than the JX 0.09secs@6.0v and 12kg. Metal gears, digital, aluminum mid-casing, low profile. About the same price range as the JX. This and the JX kicks out the s3003/s3004 (both are analog, have plastic gears and very slow) in terms of specs, performance and price. https://sea.banggood.com/SPT-Servo-SPT4412LV-12KG-Digital-Servo-Large-Torque-Metal-Gear-Short-Body-For-RC-Airplane-Car-Boat-p-1382838.html?akmClientCountry=PH&cur_warehouse=CN
  12. Imgur would be a nice image hosting site to use. It doesn't compress the image like Photobucket does so the images' quality doesn't suffer.
  13. Would be nice if you can scan them and save them as PDF and share them.
  14. My FF-01 is 24 year old kit and it has been sitting in the shelf for display. It gets some additional upgrades once in a while but I had no plans of running it again. I decided to install some electronics and make it work. It may get some occasional "behaved" runs on the street but that's it. No racing of any kind with this baby. It has so much sentimental value for me. I installed a Holmes 27t brushed motor, 60A GoolRC ESC, SPT 4412LV low profile servo and an extra Radiolink RX I've had since last year as spare.
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