Nicadraus

Because of this, I'm now torn in between the BBX or the Kyosho Turbo Scorpion as my next purchase. I really like the TS and still on a hunt at a decent price. What I also like about the TS is the stock parts that come with it and doesn't seem need any upgrades out of the box. Unlike Tamiya, which is a typical money-trap when it comes to hop-ups. I don't have as many RCs as many of you have here but I'm a sucker for hop-ups to which all my kits have been treated well with upgrades. So I'm curious about the hop-up parts for this new model.

@tam-trucks you might want to check this out: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/102370-chargers-whats-everyone-using/&tab=comments#comment-931080

The Imax B6 Evo is great that won't break your wallet. I have one and love it. Bought it new at $33.

I love rally the most but I also enjoy touring and crawling.

Yes. LiPo/LiHv/LiFe/LiIon/NiMh/NiCd/Pb. Works with most RC batteries if not all.

Sink/drain declogger liquid works wonder in removing anodizing and plating really quick. It's commonly used by bikers when they buy parts that are anodized in different color and just wants to use them in plain silver aluminum. Doesn't affect the metal too so no weakening of material.

Like I said, there's always a risk. As I mentioned, NiMh battteries builds heat faster during charging and while in usage than can cause the batteries burst or leak too. So different types of danger lies within when improperly used or mishandled. Again, regardless of the battery.

Going back to the original title question... Yes it's worth switching to Lipo (for me and for thousands of other people). Why? I have used NiCd & NiMh since the 80s to the early 2000s. And LiPos are so much easier to work with. Longer running time, double or triple as compared to the NiCd/NiMh, lighter (as mentioned many times) easier to maintain and cheaper. Also LiPo chargers are much nicer, cheaper and have more options. Some Lipo chargers can charge two to four batts at the same time. I remember back in the day when we raced, we had to have several chargers, ate least 6 NiCd/NiMh batteries minumum, several battery dischargers, and several battery conditioners. Plus the amount of heat that builds up every single charge. Now with LiPos, none of those have to be present. This vs this

There's always a risk even with NiCd & NiMh when mishandled. You can't brush that fact under the carpet too. I have seen many NiCd/NiMh burned, harmed people and burned RC cars in flames just because of simple battery shortage due to small pieces of metal laying/flying on the tracks or mishandling. So there's always a risk and owners/handlers should be responsible enough to take extra care when using, charging, storing and transporting batteries regardless of what kind.

I used plastic straws used for balloons that are about 0.5mm in thickness. I cut them according the model's ride height to raise each at least 2-3mm. Then the screws that hold the model on the base are also inserted and concealed in the straws which I also painted in black. The straw raisers can be seen underneath each model in the pictures above.

So I have been planning to strip my vintage WO body and repaint it to blue same as the Blockhead. My paint remover arrived yesterday and today, I worked on it. The previous paint that was used was acrylic and was brushed (probably my friend who owned and gave me this didn't have a spray paint back in the 80s and decided to just use brush). I had to soak some parts with the solution for more than 3 minutes because the paint was too thick especially at some deep corners. Then some cracks showed up and one part just broke off. Dang! Apparently, the paint stripper makes the polycarbonate weaker and brittle when soaked in longer periods. I learned something new here. Haha! So I searched and found this on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/314233062617?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D847e3b5a52e54575b24b97d169522444%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D133963625285%26itm%3D314233062617%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460%26brand%3DTamiya&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042

That's a nice collection @mtbkym01 I would suggest lifting the each models from sitting on a shelf to avoid tire flat spots. I do this to all my models including the smaller scales 1:64 & 1:43. Overtime, the weight of the models puts pressure on the rubber tires that cerates irreversible flat spots. In the pics below, each model is raised 2 - 3mm from the base. I patiently did all that to my models in all scales.

Tamiya plant factory in Cebu has been up since the early 90s. https://www.tamiya.com/english/tamiya/tamiya_02.htm Not everything is made in the Philippines, some still remain made in Japan.

Use this for the compound, to remove sand marks after wet sanding. This is generic and comes with different abrasiveness. The black being very abrasive and the peach less abrasive which can also be used for polishing after compounding. Then for fine polishing, use this cloth wheel. For hard to reach areas and deep corners, You can use this cone pad Those are the same materials I use for my models after painting and wet sanding.

I use a Dremel with buffing cloth and buffing foam pad and also rubbing compound, polishing cream, swirl and haze remover and wax to finish.