Nicadraus

As mentioned, 4WD is easiest to drive. But it will still require proper set up for the suspension, CG, tires, etc. RWD buggies are so much fun too. It can be wild but can also be tamed depending on the set up and driving techniques. FWD have great acceleration traction compared to a RWD. No fishtailing upon start up and with proper weight distribution and set up, it has a good grip and less wheel spin. I have 3 FWD kits and one of them is converted to a rally car with a good grip off road. For on-road, it's also good on the track but needs proper advanced braking techniques. Once you get the hang of the driving style, you'll enjoy it.

Two of my friends and I had an "unplanned" RC afternoon.

@Jonathon Gillham I'd just like to correct you on this. You must have been thinking the FF-04 Evo. Because the TB Evo 4 is completely different from the XV-01. The OP might get confused. @bikerclubby, I'd also reccomend the XV-01. Great 4WD kit on and off road.

The GoolRC 23t is a lot faster than the Sport Tuned. It also uses bearings at both ends which the ST only uses bushings.

I've also had many motors in the past From Tamiya, Kyosho, Kawada, HPI, and other brands which I have already forgotten. I'm really surprised and impressed with these "China" brands as they are reliable and fast. First one I tried, I installed it in my CC-01. Austar 27t, used it for bashing since 2019 and this year I replaced it with a GoolRC 55t because the 27t was just too fast for trailing. Comparing it to a silver (I have 3 Mabuchi and a Jonson) can and a Tamiya Torque Tuned, the GoolRC 27t has definitely have more torque and speed. Also that same year, I installed a 21t GoolRC in one of my FF-03. Been using that since and another 21t in my LRP S10 rally car. I ordered another 21t that I installed in my XV-01 last year and another 55t to my CFX. Last February, I ordered a Surpass 23t for my Wild One. Also last year, I ordered another GoolRC 17t which I plan on using for the XV-01. All these motors installed have been performing more than I was expecting. I have not changed any of the brushes yet and they seem to last longer than usual every time I check them. I can seriously vouch for these motors for bashing or for racing. 21t in the XV-01 - I covered the label with a carbon fiber decal Another 21t in the FF-03RR Also 21t in the LRP S10 55t in the CFX 55t in the CC-01 Honestly, I lost interest on using any of the silver cans and the very slightly used Torque Tuned that I have. I'll probably just keep them for nostalgic purposes. But I still wish to get myself some classic motors than I owned in the past like the Dynatech 01R, Le Mans 240ST and 480T, Acto-Power (pink), Superstock Type-R and a few others.

I have about 8 of them 17, 21, 23, 27 & 55t. Branded as GoolRC, Austar and Surpass, and all are good with zero problems so far. I also bought extra brushes for these motors. They are very cheap, reliable and fast. All come with bearings too.

It' a set I ordered. Came in four pieces. I installed two in my CFX and two here. I used all for rear lights.

Nice build but I would seriously change those red hex to blue. If only you lived nearby, I'd toss you a set for free.

Some updates today... New set of rear tires Front shock tower metal stiffener

Some updates: My tires have finally arrived. I installed a stiffener for the front shock mounts. I found a steel bar perfect for it. It was from a metal bumper bar of a crawler that I had kept. With a few spacers, fit perfectly!

Thanks @Re-Bugged 😊

I had a Brat converted to Frog in the 80s and that chassis is simply made for fun. There is no way or point in modifying the trailing arms with a bearing because the chassis wasn't just designed to be a race buggy. Not competitively designed for such upgrade. I had mine modified with full ball bearings, Le Mans 240ST, 480T & Dynatech motors, Futaba MC110 ESC, aluminum racing shocks, gear diff and a few others but it's just too limited to race on the track with the real racers. Unless you re-engineer the chassis to improve the entire suspension, it has to be changed to something else and not use the same suspension. Something like this... Here's another example of a modified one but the rear suspension trailing arms was left the way it was.

I posted this as reply in the other thread but I thought I'd also post it here. The WO chassis have some holes under and I placed the fan just on top of the round hole which serves as an inlet for cold air to come in. The other holes such as the switch hole, serves as an outlet too.

The WO chassis have some holes under and I placed the fan just on top of the round hole which serves as an inlet for cold air to come in. The other holes such as the switch serves as as outlet too.

I wanted the Super Astute but I guess I'll skip that and get a Dyna Storm instead if it gets re-released.