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About Nicadraus

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  1. Picked these up today at a local hobby shop... Another set of these wheels and tires. I love the traction on these. Team C Toyota Yaris WRC body
  2. If I was your neighbor, I'd probably skip work so often and go to your backyard and run my kits. But if I was your neighbor and I wasn't into RC, I'd still probably skip work, watch you guys run your kits and convince myself that I need to get a kit or two. Seriously, good job!!!
  3. Some parts arrived today... Aluminum rear uprights (TRF416) and installed them.
  4. Some parts arrived today... Aluminum rear uprights (TRF416) and installed them. Steel center universal shafts for CC-01 (Xtraspeed)
  5. When we were kids, I had a Subaru Brat converted to Frog while my dad bought my younger brother a Hotshot. I got envy and wanted the Hotshot when I saw it. But when I tried it, I swore not to own one, I kept the Frog (until I upgraded to an Astute) because it's such a lousy car (Hotshot) to drive plus the suspension is just worst. It became popular only because it was Tamiya's first 4WD. But when the rest of the new 4WD kits came including the improved Hotshot 2 (very similar to the Boomerang) and Super Hotshot 2 with both with improved and better suspension, the first release was quickly forgotten and some of my friends who also owned it never even bothered to look back. Now going back to your question, I'd definitely pick the Top Force and Boomerang as second choice. Neo Scorcher would be third and never the Hot Shot.
  6. Yup definitely perfect because if you're setting up an oldschool kit with proper electronics, the MC110 is era/period correct.
  7. I just noticed you're using an MC110 on the RC10. I used the 110 too back in the late 80s. It was my first ESC and was very happy to upgrade from a MSC. I replaced it with an MC116 when I got an Astute in 1990.
  8. I thought about buying those too but I didn't want to replace the knuckles and c-hubs to aluminum anymore as it will weaken the suspension arms. In case of impact, it is likely to destroy the arms rather than the outer parts because of their strength. That being said, it takes more time to replace the arms than the outer parts. Also, if in case the aluminum knuckles and c-hubs gets dent, damaged, cracked, or misaligned, it's more expensive to replace as well. So I opted to install carbon reinforced plastic parts on the front suspension and I have ordered more spares for replacement at the cost of a pair of knuckles and c-hubs. The rear of the car has less chances of being damaged that's why I decided to add "bling" to it.
  9. I thought I was done with the aluminum upgrades on the Pro-R. But I guess not... Full aluminum lower suspension mounts 1XD. I have already installed 1A before but had a hard time finding the 1XD mounts. Luckily, RCMart had them in three pieces stock and got all of them. Another upgrade that is coming is the aluminum rear uprights for TRF416.
  10. On the RR, I'm using the stock ball diff. I applied AWG (anti-wear grease) to stiffen the differential and thrust bearings. So far it's working the way I expected. On the Pro-R, I'm using of the FF-03 R gear diff with a carbon reinforced gearbox of the R as well. The gear diff has 10k oil which is very stiff and just the way I want it.
  11. Yes. Watch here: https://imgur.com/gsap1aW I'm really impressed with the outcome as rally car. It's very stable and easy to drive. Even more stable than my cousin's TT-02 and my CC-01. Cornering or power slides is also very easy to achieve.
  12. So my Scirocco body arrived last night and painted it this morning. Brilliant Blue Silver undercoat
  13. So my Scirocco body arrived last night and painted it this morning. Also went rallying at the local park nearby this afternoon with my daughter, cousin and his kids https://i.imgur.com/gsap1aW.mp4
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