Nicadraus

Very true. I've tried the GPM, Xtraspeed and Hot Racing. HR is the best. GPM is just crappy. Xtraspeed is just an aluminum version of the stock plastic which doesn't improve the steering issue of the CC-01. HR solved it.

Happy birthday @mtbkym01

Actually there was. Can't remember exactly but i think it was between 1,400g-1,600g. We'd weigh in our kits during registration, batteries included. When I was racing the Frog, my kit was one of the heaviest aside from the SRBs. But the RC10s, Ultimas were so light that they had to add weights to level with the minimum requirement.

Using a Go Pro 11 attached to a 3-axis gimbal, I was able to multi-task by shooting and driving while strolling at a nearby trail. I have also adjusted the suspension. Lowered but more travel and body roll is much better and more scaled as seen in the video when the body moves and sways.

Some updates on this rig. Last week, I lowered the height by 5mm. Looks better but there's a minimal scraping of the tires and wheel arches. So yesterday, I went out and took this baby for a spin since it's been a while since it was last driven outside.

Went on a strolling, trailing & shooting today at a nearby trail today.

Not yet.

Actually, baseball diamond fields and parking lots are very nice grounds for a proper rally car but also beaches, low grassy areas and wet soil. Don't want to push you on getting one but I suggest you try it first. Seriously, it'll change your thoughts.

Have you driven an XV-01/02 or a PTG-2R on tarmac and rally designed off-road course? If not, then your opinion on rc rally cars might change once you try it. I've driven and raced in 2wd off-road buggies, 4wd/FF touring cars and rally cars. It's the rally that I had fun the most. On-road touring is serious racing. It's fun yet you have to give 100% concentration and sense of humor isn't appreciated on the driver's stands. It's all about precision driving. Buggies are fun off-road. But looks and feel odd running them on paved roads. But a rally car, can do both off and on-road, and I'm talking about proper rally chassis like the XV & PTG-2R kits and not on-road touring based rally cars such as the TT-02.

One probelem of the WO is the front, it's too light. The CG is biased at the mid-rear section of the chassis and the front wheels looses traction especially on corners. A solution to that is to add weights. I have done this to mine by adding 40g in total and steering traction is really improved by let's say, 50%. I remember back in the 80s when I was racing my Frog against WO, RC10 and Ultima buggies. I would always come in last because the Frog just couldn't keep up. The WO driver/owners did the weight method back then which reminded me to do when I finally got mine, I did the same and really noticed the improvement.

Fantastic work as usual @OoALEJOoO

Nicely done! My Celica ST165 had just arrived yesterday and will probably start working on it next month.

Chalk. I've used this several times whenever I was given some old bodies that were used in other chassis or bought pre-painted bodies online. Rub a thick amount of chalk on the tip of the body post and then slowly lay the body on, touching the body post. It will leave chalk mark on the body underneath. Once the mark is visible enough, that should be the spot where to ream the holes. Just ream a very small hole first and do some fitting (and adjust) before finalizing the actual hole size. Hope this helps. But I also agree using velcro.

Nothing much update except for the panel lines I applied today on this body which I painted four years ago. Now looks better.

Nothing much update except for the panel lines I applied today on this body which I painted four years ago. Now looks better.

This is my 2nd R12, one installed in my XV-01. While my FF-03 Pro-R uses the L12HV. Same specs as the R12 except for the casing which is all aluminum. Both are probably one of the fastest servos in the market. I also like the titanium gears installed in them. I'm really impressed with Power HD servos.

Well I'm no pro driver but honestly, I've never destroyed a servo in a crash. The only servo saver I'm currently using is the one for my WO because it requires to, as two direct steering links are connected to it. Other than that, I hate using servo savers. It ruins the servo's performance especially for high speed ones.

Time to upgrade the FF-03RR's servo. From SPT4412LV... to PowerHD R12. Nice thing about PowerHD low profile servo is that the wires are factory shortened. No need to cut and resolder. I only had to wrap it in braided sleeve. Speed and response difference.

Time to upgrade the FF-03RR's servo. From SPT4412LV... to PowerHD R12. Nice thing about PowerHD low profile servo is that the wires are factory shortened. No need to cut and resolder. I only had to wrap it in braided sleeve. Speed and response difference.