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Everything posted by Nicadraus

  1. What drill bit did you use for creating countersunk holes?
  2. Now one of my 1060 had begun to shut down. Like most cases, steering works fine but throttle does only run at full speed then cuts off. No throttle and the ESC gets very hot. After a long rest. Maybe 30 minutes when it cools off. The throttle works again and shuts down like a cycle. I ordered 16v 470uF capacitors and will do my own. Will let you guys know.
  3. So I ordered this and came yesterday. Didn't have the time to test it yet though. Pretty cheap at $30 only.
  4. I want to see the finished project soon @ACCEL. Have you guys seen this yet?
  5. For the purist, the standard shocks layout of HS, HS2 or SHS would suffice. But for better performance, look and sturdiness, this one is way better in my opinion. As an engineer and a person who love to tinker, I like how this was re-designed. The suspension arms and shock mount/guard especially. In case of a flip over, the shocks are safe while the SHS shock mounts are prone to bend and misalign. Then those people who have tried Kyosho shocks know those are good. Way better than standard Tamiya plastic CVA that is known to leak frequently because of the plastic casing. Plus that Kyosho Optima/Ultima shocks in red are perfect for the HS. Nice job on this one @FC5687!
  6. Beautiful! This and the Ultima were just a dream back in the 80s. I couldn't afford one and waited until I graduated high school until I could buy an Astute. Kyosho kits were way more advanced and better designed than Tamiya back then. Stock kits came with aluminum adjustable shocks, aluminum everywhere including wheel hubs. Tamiya was just more popular to the general consumer but not to racers. No Tamiya could match the Optima series on tracks even with the release of the over engineered Avante. Their kits were designed to race. Bashing was just second priority. Tamiya kits were bashers converted to ricers (yes I spelled it right, RICERS). It was only the time of the Astute/Egress/TA series when Tamiya had become serious about racing. But Yokomo, AE, Losi, Schumacher and Kyosho were already ahead of the game.
  7. YR and Tamiya springs, pistons and o-rings work vice versa.
  8. Oh by the way, ordering from the RCmart website is much, much better than their ebay account. More shipping options and more items to window shop.
  9. I have two sets of YR 60mm shock gear and another one (55mm) coming from RCmart. The two 60mm shock gear are used in two of my rally cars. They work great and I have no complains. Rebound and damping are next to the TRF in my (and many others too) opinion. The reason why I ordered another YR set.
  10. A month to six weeks is already fast considering the distance and pandemic situation. I live in Asia and and it's just a two hour flight from HK and it takes two weeks to get the items here. But at least they arrive safe and complete. The first thing I do to every parcel that arrives is disinfect them thoroughly inside and out of the packaging which is what every person should be doing as a standard protocol.
  11. https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-ff-03-gear-case-for-gear-differential-54398-00035400
  12. The best mod for the ball diff in the FF-03 is by replacing the ball joint set with aluminum (I used YR instead or Tamiya) and apply a lot of AWG. Then replace the stock dogbone with CVD. In my Pro-R, I'm using gear while ball in my RR with the mods I mentioned. I'm surprised that the ball performs like a gear diff with 30k oil. No leaking problems too.
  13. The standard FF-03 and Pro versions only come with standard ball diffs while the R and EVO uses gear diff. The R and Evo also have carbon reinforced R spec gear case that fits the gear diff. Like @ThunderDragonCy said, get the gear case for the R and TA-06 gear diff set (comes with steel bevel already which is a must). Since you're also upgrading the diff, you might want to get a CVD or DCJ. Tamiya CVD (44mm) set is quite hard to find now. Your other cheap option is Sakura 44mm CVD. Fit perfectly in the FF-03 and does the job. I posted the Sakura CVD here a few pages down.
  14. I have larger tires on my CC-01 and 100mm shocks. It added travel but more inward and very little outward rebound. I have also grinded the c-hubs and arms to allow more droop but still is limited.
  15. The problem with this is it still uses the same short arms suspension for the front. So limited suspension travel is still an issue. That is the down side of the CC-01 when used for crawling on rocky terrain. Aside from the front suspension, I like what he did.
  16. Just hang on and these problems will go away eventually. For some it may look strange but for many, prayers work. I'm not an ultra religous person but there's Someone up there who can help. Just have faith and trust. He'll take care of your burdens and worries.
  17. I have so much spares (used and new-sealed) and 3 extra chassis. I could actually still build two full kits with a little hop ups but I'll leave those as spares for "just in case" you know. Haha!
  18. Oh there are many genuine Tamiya parts on and in it. Internals are all Tamiya. Outside are still majority Tamiya with a touch of YR, 3R and my own fabrication of carbon fiber custom parts.
  19. Disassembled the gearbox and installed the aluminum diff cover and replaced the stock bearing with rubber sealed. Also replaced the servo horn with aluminum and this one is just perfect for the FF-03 and the XV-01.
  20. Motors from GoolRC, Austar and Surpass are pretty cheap. $7-10. From 9t all the way to 55t. All of which are modified with replaceable brush, ball bearing and adjustable timing. I have about 8 motors from GoolRC (17t, 21t, 27t) and 2 from Austar (35t and 55t). All are working great, accurate and well without any problems.
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