Nicadraus

Upgrade parts list FF-03 Pro-R Tamiya: 42216 TRF 44mm Double Cardan Joint Shaft 42222 FF-03 Lightweight Counter Gear 20t 53823 Aluminum Wheel Hub 5mm 53993 TA-05-IFS Aluminum Rocker Arm Set 54064 Aluminum Suspension Mount 1XD 54069 Aluminum Suspension Mount 1A 54223 Aluminum Motor Plate 54230 Stabilizer set (Front & rear) used only front 54234 Aluminum Spur Gear Mount 54235 Aluminum Racing Steering set 54258 FF-03 Carbon Damper Stay 54264 FF-03 Carbon Rear Deck Stiffener 54288 FF-03 Carbon Reinforced A-Parts 54289 FF-03 Carbon Reinforced K-Parts 54290 FF-03 Carbon Reinforced M-Parts 54297 FF-03 Carbon Reinforced Lower deck chassis 54343 M-Chassis Lightweight Idler 54471 Steel Gear Differential Unit for TA-06Pro/FF-03R/XV-01 54495 RM-01 Aluminum Servo Mount 54568 Carbon Reinforced Front Uprights 84361 Aluminum Front Upper Arm Mount 84406 Aluminum Bumper Mount 84406 Carbon Bumper Support 84410 Carbon Steering Plate 3Racing: FF03-12/LB Steering Track FF03-23/WO Graphite Battery Plate FF03-15/WO Graphite Rear Shock Tower with Aluminum mount FF03-09/LB Aluminum Front Bulkhead Stiffener 416-19LB Aluminum Rear Hub Carrier "0" Degree Works1200: W12 - Carbon Fiber ESC Tray 2mm W12 - Carbon Fiber Servo/RX tray 2mm W12 - Carbon fiber ESC fan guard FF-03 RR (road and rally) Tamiya: 54223 Aluminum Motor Plate 54234 Aluminum Spur Gear Mount 54235 Aluminum Racing Steering set 54258 FF-03 Carbon Rear Damper Stay 53823 Aluminum Wheel Hub 5mm 53993 TA-05-IFS Aluminum Rocker Arm Set 54495 RM-01 aluminum servo mount 84410 Carbon Steering Plate Carbon Reinforced bumper mount Carbon Reinforced Upper Arm Mount Carbon Reinforced Rear bulkhead Yeah Racing: DSG-0060BU - Aluminum threaded 60mm damper set FF03-013-01G - Graphite front bulkhead FF03-069BU - Aluminum Ball differential Joint set 3Racing: FF03--23/WO Graphite battery Plate Works1200: W12- Carbon fiber bumper support - DIY W12- Carbon fiber rear deck stiffener - DIY W12- Carbon fiber ESC tray - DIY W12- Carbon fiber servo/RX tray - DIY

Like everyone ssaid, keep the RC10 for nostaglic memories. Get him a kit with lots of parts available and modern electronics (waterproof ESC, Lipo, brushless or brushed motor, waterproof servo).

Fixed that for you. Seriously, FWD/FF is my favorite.

Yes we did enjoy so much. Thank you! 😊

Last night's local on-road race... It's been 12 years since I last raced on-road. Both cars got trophies. The RR got a 3rd overall out of 8 cars in the stock FWD class. While the Pro-R got a 3rd overall in the open class out of 12 cars which included 4WD (XV-01TC, TA05, TA07 Pro, FF03Pro, FF-02, Kyosho Fazer, AE TC4) brushless and brushed combined My daughter practicing with the RR car for on-road

New blue screws on the Pro-R New carbon fiber front bulkhead stiffener and aluminum diff ball joint set for the RR I also made dirt/splash guard for the RR. Because when rallying, that' where all the soil/dirt builds up.

New blue screws on the Pro-R New carbon fiber front bulkhead stiffener and aluminum diff ball joint set for the RR I also made dirt/splash guard for the RR. Because when rallying, that' where all the soil/dirt builds up.

You must have taken the video using that angle and aspect ratio and uploaded as is in youtube.

I tried locking my front diff with the diff locker and whenever it full steers, it destroys the pins of the dogbone. So I just applied a lot AWG in the diff. Much better now than locking it completely. I also did the same to the rear diff.

Happy birthday to your daughter! I'm sure she's so happy. I gave my CC-01 to my daughter. Her first drive reaction was, "OMG dad, this is so much better than any phone, online or playstation game". She loves RCing now.

Wow! What a fantastic job!

Polyurethane works well with the polycarbonate. Good in flexing too. That Yaris body has been to a battle rally race and have minor damages including 2 cracks in front and a small portion from the fender that parted but the paint is all fine and no chipping. Tomorrow will be another track race day.

I painted several RC bodies using airbrush. The nice thing about airbrush is that you can choose any color you wish. Mix them, shade them and do almost every painting trick. These are the bodies... All painted with airbrush using polyurethane automotive paints.

Here you go... [/img] http://www.rcmart.com/alloy-rear-damper-mount-with-mulitiple-holes-p-56065.html?cPath=595_744_1426 Also available in blue http://www.rcmart.com/cc030mb-alloy-rear-damper-mount-with-multiple-holes-1set-p-62921.html?cPath=595_744_1426

You will need to buy the a separate suspension mount. I'm using GPM while other brands like YR and HR are nice too. The reason why I went with GPM is because it's simple and has several screw holes for finer adjustments.

Some updates... - New differential gear case . Rebuilt the differential, cleaned the bearings too. New front gearbox cover - Re-positioned the rear shocks. Better rebound and travel - New Xtraspeed center shaft

Some updates... - New differential gear case . Rebuilt the differential, cleaned the bearings too. New front gearbox cover - Re-positioned the rear shocks. Better rebound and travel - New Xtraspeed center shaft

An 850 bearing should be placed there (red arrow).

My first RC car was the Tamiya Subaru Brat. I converted to a Frog because the Brat can't race. No differential gear, it either keeps flipping or fish tailing on corners. I changed the gear to differential, changed the rear shocks to aluminum, front body post, wheels & tires (used Wild One's), and a Frog body. I also had a Ford Ranger, same chassis as the Rough Rider and Sand Scorcher but I rarely used it because it was too heavy and same as the Brat, keeps fish tailing and flipping on corners. Definitely not a track racer.

Upgrading the TT-02 with full aluminum would look nice. Parts that will improve when upgraded to aluminum are the drive shafts, center shaft and cups, steering set, motor mount, knuckles, c-hubs, and rear uprights. Other than that, the rest are bling. It would be a lot cheaper to use YR (Yeah Racing) instead of original Tamiya parts. the prices of aftermarket parts like YR or 3Racing are usually 40-50% cheaper than the Tamiya counterparts.

Wow! You even have an unpainted Renault Clio body! Lucky you!

VW Scirocco (Tamiya) Lancia Delta Integrale (body by Killerbody) Toyota Corolla WRC (Tamiya) Toyota Yaris WRC (Team C)

These were my HPI Pro4 and TA-04R fitted with HPI Lamborghini Murcielago bodies back in 2005. I still have the blue body up to now. I even installed them with LED lighting front and rear.

FF-03RR in action against the XV-01 kits. https://web.facebook.com/djnicadraus/videos/1128803850651392/

Yesterday's fun at the track... I'm very, very impressed with my FF-03RR. It performed really well and would even surpass the XVs (There were 3 XV-01 I ran/raced with) at long straights. I learned the cornering trick at hairpins while other corners are no problem with this FF car.