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Everything posted by Nicadraus

  1. I had that and used it for probably 3 years before the compressor conked out. So I'm now using a better compressor and I installed a pressure regulator so I can adjust the psi. Although I'm still using the same air brush and bought another one because it does the job right for me. I use it for painting models (diecast metal and plastic), small turntable parts, and anything that needs painting jobs. Just always make sure to clean the airbrush parts thoroughly every after use. Do not soak the 8 ring in thinner for a long time.
  2. I've seen some people use this for their crawlers and buggies. So far they look happy with it. I'm also planning to get one for my CC01 project. Currently, I'm using a Power HD L12HV servo on my FF03. It's a low profile servo with alloy gears, metal casing, coreless high voltage motor. Cost me $60 brand new.
  3. Beautiful build! Can you post pics of the chassis (without the body)?
  4. I'd build the other one and keep it as a shelf queen or use it as spare parts donor for the other on case something breaks. That's what I did with my two FF03 kits. One is a parts donor. Got them both at a bargain.
  5. My B6 is the AC version so plug it directly to a 100v-240v wall but can also be used with a 12v 20amp power supply.
  6. For TC, ditch the XV01 Pro TC and get something else better for touring like a TB03 and up for shaft driven or TA04 and up for belt driven.
  7. There are ways/guide to avoid getting a clone unit. I have the genuine B6 imax and works great on my 2s and 3s (for Heli) batts.
  8. An 80A ESC won't do with a 10T motor. Not even with a 23T. It'll overheat, stall and worse, burn even if installed with a capacitor.
  9. I drooled over this kit when I first saw it in 1995. Fast forward a decade later, I had a RS4 Pro4. Fantastic kit. I missed it.
  10. In 1989 I had an MC110 for my Brat which was converted to Frog and upgraded to MC116 in 1991 for my new Astute kit. Then bought an MC112 for my FF01 in 1996.
  11. My only 90s TC. FF01, upgraded the chassis to FRP and some turnbuckles and aluminum wheel hex hubs. It originally had a Renault Clio body then I replaced it with this Toyota Corolla WRC body. Ran it a few times then she became a shelf queen since. I recently upgraded the damper to TRF and replaced the bearings with rubber sealed type. Planning to run it again as a rally car this year once I complete my current project. Will get her a new body for bashing too because I don't want to waste the Corolla body.
  12. I have the same tool. Just be careful using this on anodized-color balls because it scratches them.
  13. I work at home doing turntable refurbishments of Technics SL1200 series (https://web.facebook.com/Works1200/). Once in a while, I jump from working on 1200 decks to working on small parts for my RC (or my diecast models) when an idea pops into my mind.
  14. Here's a set of 65mm dampers that I got for $6/pair. I sntalled them on my TC4 which will be used for rally set up. Although I used the stock springs that came with the plastic dampers of the TC4. Because the springs that came with the aluminum damper is too hard.
  15. Congrats on the first kit! Like others have mentioned, bearings, oil filled dampers (aluminum preferably), turnbuckles (for easy adjustments), universal shafts (prevents them from fying out). There are generic rubber sealed bearings. A set of 10 pieces cost me around $5 only. There are also cheap aluminum adjustable threaded dampers from Yeah Racing (already mentioned by Juggular) and 3Racing. Here are the bearing sets I got. I've used them on my FF01 and FF03 while I also got more for my CC-01.
  16. Nope. Egress also came out in the early 90s. It's a refined and tuned version of the Avante. Definitely a lot better.
  17. Did these CF parts to save money from expesive Tamiya genuine parts. Bought 2mm CF board and cut the parts myself using Dremel. ESC and servo trays, rear deck stiffener, rear body post stiffener.
  18. Definitely not Tamiya, The damper alone says it and the chassis neither.
  19. I made a temporary CF rear shock tower and was suppose to make another using a 3mm CF board. But I couldn't resist the aluminum mount for the rear shock tower which comes with a 3mm CF. So It saved me from creating a template, cutting, shaping and sanding. So far, I have almost completed the CF parts I wanted for the FF03. I'll probably make some custom CF parts for my FF01 instead.
  20. Aluminum bumper mount and rear shock tower with aluminum mount installed...
  21. It's been a while. Some updates on my slowwww build...Rubber sealed bearings 3 Racing rear shock tower with aluminum mount and FF03 aluminum bumper mount
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