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About rich_f

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  1. The BMW, as screenshotted above, possibly one of truck norris'
  2. That may be so, but my comment still stands. I'd go out of my way to avoid him making any money from me. Looks like he may have used a member's photo without credit also...
  3. What an absolutely horrible person he sounds like. He deserves not to make any money on this business venture with that attitude. The people at the dump will recognise the value in it and rescue it - they're not stupid, unlike this guy.
  4. Sorry to hear about your incident, but glad it wasn't too bad in the end. Being someone who never moved away from using 27MHz AM radios, I wouldn't dream of turning off the transmitter first! Maybe this explains why some people never consider it to be a problem anymore - maybe they've never used an old-style radio. Even if you've never had it told to you explicitly, it makes sense that the transmitter should be the last thing you turn off, otherwise there's nothing in positive control of the car - you are only relying on whatever failsafes the designer of the electronics thought of, and that they are working as intended. Surely it's just safer to leave the tx off switch until last...
  5. All very true, but this particular member joined nearly 20 years ago - easily checked by clicking on the name. He's certainly playing the long game, there...
  6. Given all the non-liveried 'racing version' re-release bodyshells that have come out to date (and there's no sign of that trend stopping - the racing nsx just announced... Didn't see that coming - I have a couple of bodies I bought for restoring that I might not need to do anymore now that I can get new ones), I wonder if Tamiya will redo the r33 LM shell without livery. I'd buy one. Or several.
  7. I'm also 40 and used a fet servo when I used to race. The one car I have now that uses one happens to have an esc with the fet servo lead, so I've not needed to do this, but apparently that lead is just the battery + wire anyway, so you can connect your 4th servo wire directly to the battery + (via an inductor as already mentioned, to filter out voltage spikes). Not sure why your esc started to overheat when you did this, unless it isn't designed to handle the amount of current that the 7.2 volt servo draws (the negative of the servo goes to the esc via the receiver, so the current through the servo goes through the esc also).
  8. Absolutely as Willy says - just try a larger diameter screw for blind holes or a machine screw with a nut for through holes. So much stuff is thrown away when it can so easily be repaired, or at least made to work, because people are too quick to say it needs replacing...
  9. These might be names for the hop-up suspension pin parts, but the OP was asking about the technical name for the standard parts (the screw pins, which don't have retaining clip grooves). I'm not sure what they are called but I don't see why they can't be a custom part made by, or for, tamiya, considering all of the other metal parts in tamiya cars that are not off the shelf items. If you have access to a lathe (or know someone with one) you might be able to find a 'normal' screw and just turn down the remainder of threads along the length of the shaft to create something similar. (maybe this is how tamiya makes them...)
  10. It absolutely doesn't sound like a scam (yet). For this to sound like a scam, it would have to be asking for money, yet they explicitly state that they are not asking for any money, and all they want to know is if the address they have on record is still the same. Also when they say you can log in to check your details are correct, they don't even provide a (dodgy) link for you to click and be taken to the scammers website. So no scam there either. By responding to this email with what they've asked for, i.e., either yes or no, they have not gained any more information than they already had. Granted, it could turn into a scam, for example if they then reply asking for money for some reason, but as it stands, as we see the message, it doesn't sound like a scam at all. The op already said that the address it was sent from is the correct one, so the one in the message is probably just a typo.
  11. Very noble of them to keep hold of people's ordered goods for 2 years, patiently waiting for the customers' preferred shipment method to resume service. I'd be extremely surprised if this were common practice anywhere else in the world. I imagine that they'd say - choose another shipping method, otherwise we'll give you a refund [because we don't want to keep your stuff in storage indefinitely]. Incidentally, did plaza Japan not get in touch with you at the time to say that your chosen shipping method has been discontinued and offer you an alternative?
  12. Yes they do wear. When they get really bad you can just punch them out and replace them with a new pin.
  13. In what way is it a huge benefit? I've bought many rc and static kits, never had one that was shrink wrapped, and never had one that had anything missing from inside (the opposite actually, where vendors put extra things in). For me, it would just be (yet) another bit of plastic to throw away.
  14. According to the manual (for the original frp conversion set) they use different steering links. J1 and 2 for TA02 and J4 and 5 for the FF01.
  15. As I began reading this post my immediate thought was - this sounds like an inductance problem. In order to reduce the inductance, you can use shorter wires, but can't you also twist the positive and negative battery wires together so that the magnetic fields cancel? No magnetic field, no inductance.
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