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About rich_f

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  1. Let this be a lesson - when you buy a screwdriver with a replaceable tip, buy a replacement tip at the same time! That's what I did with my EDS JIS screwdriver (which fits fine in tamiya screws - though mine is a 5.8mm and not 4mm) I'm sure you'll be able to find a replacement tip somewhere, even if it's a different brand.
  2. Unless they sell multiple scam items in the time it takes to get them banned... Plus they can just use a vpn to create another account and repeat.
  3. For my Porsche 934 project (still yet to be started), the only scale looking wheels I found were ones with the fake sidewall. I decided to try HPI vintage tyres with them and most of the fake sidewall is covered by the extended sidewall lip of the HPI vintage tyres, so that could be an option.
  4. Yes - it looks like you are using a mix of TA01 and TA02 kingpins, which are different sizes and made of different metals. The TA01 ones are longer and you can see they protrude more than the 02 version.
  5. And the reason ebay has fees... This is almost certainly what's going on. They quickly sell a few, send out the bogus packages and while they are being delivered, the account is closed down. Then they do it all again with another ebay account and another bank account.
  6. I think that they mean tyres with a tread pattern on, as opposed to slicks. Not quite sure why they have chosen to name them radials though as they certainly don't have any strengthening cords inside - cat whisker or otherwise. Maybe it started as a marketing thing for real road car tyres - that they became known as radials (because when radial tyres were introduced they offered a superior ride to cross-ply tyres that came before). And since road car tyres have treads, maybe that's why tamiya uses the name 'radials' to distinguish them from slicks.
  7. My M04 mazda mx-5 came with standard kit tyres on the front but s-grips on the rear. S-grips and M-grips have S-Grip and M-Grip on their sidewalls, respectively. Standard kit tyres just have the number and Tamiya on the sidewalls
  8. The standard kit tyres are harder than M-Grip. If you're a car park basher then yes these can be considered all season. I always used to race with these on the front of my M03 on carpet with S-grips on the rear. Outdoor on dusty tarmac I would use S-grips on the front and Type-A slicks on the rear. I've no experience with the super radials.
  9. rich_f

    TA-02 Calibra

    Not sure clearcoat will hide brush lines unless it's quite thick, which gives it a glassy, unrealistic look. If the paint is the right consistency, you can use a wide soft brush and achieve a smooth finish. Humbrol enamel paints were just the right consistency straight from the can, but tamiya acrylics work better thinned, or better still, thinned then sprayed through an airbrush. I've not used tamiya enamel paints but I imagine they are easier to brush than their acrylics.
  10. I think it's a typo - it's $170 when I looked just now on rc mart
  11. rich_f

    TA-02 Calibra

    I notice you've not painted the areas where the lights are - have you found some light buckets to fit the calibra body?
  12. The issue is neither the battery (you've said it works in reverse just fine), nor the 27MHz radio (I, and plenty of other people, used to race with the same radio and mechanical speed controller, and I still use 27MHz to race, albeit with an ESC). The problem is with the mechanical speed controller. As others have said, the contacts should first be cleaned (circled in red in the picture) and the connecting rod should be put into the hole on the servo arm that makes it such that when the throttle stick is at its maximum, the wiper arm does not go beyond the final metal contact, which will cause it to cut out. Moving the connecting rod one hole closer to the servo screw hole (you should really have a screw in that hole) so that the distance from the pivot point to the hole is the same on both the servo and the speed controller is the same might do it. You also might be suffering from too little spring pressure pressing the contacts together. This can happen if the nut on the top comes loose, or if the spring becomes a bit lax with age. It can be fixed by stripping it down, re-bending it and rebuilding. In summary, I don't think you need to buy anything new to get it to work properly - it just needs servicing and properly setting up.
  13. You can get many strength grades of [external] hex-head bolts (including the lower 5.6 grade), so I'd be very surprised if all hex socket head 3mm screws were high-grade. (noting that cheap ikea hardware, which is almost certainly not any particularly high grade, is also hex-socket headed...) Hex heads certainly are better in terms of how much torque you can successfully apply - you don't get JIS- or Philips-headed bolts holding an engine's cylinder head down, for example. On an rc car pretty much any head type will do as the torques required are much lower. I do get that they are less easy to damage with clumsy use of the wrong screwdriver or by heavy-handedness, so are less likely to be a problem to carpet tracks, but I feel like this is a user-generated problem and not inherent to the head type. So let's all agree that any head type is better than slotted screws and get back on topic! Regarding those 'doors', they do indeed look like a transverse battery option. Maybe it will be part of a quick-release battery holder they are bound to release as a hop up... We might find out when the manual is released.
  14. I was talking about the head design (which is the aspect that has been highlighted about the screws in this car) rather than the thread form. I personally wouldn't change to a machine threaded screw for a hole designed for a self-tapping screw of the same nominal outer diameter, but that's another discussion for another time. I didn't consider that these hex-headed screws might also be machine-threaded - maybe the fibre-reinforced plastic used in this model is more suited to machine threads than the plastics used in models utilising self-tapping screws, and has the holes drilled to the correct diameter to accept them.
  15. Can someone please explain why the presence of hex socket-headed screws is such a desirable aspect? I've seen it mentioned multiple times now about this car. I get that hex-socket screws are generally less likely to cam out and strip the heads, but at the torque necessary to drive them into plastic, surely this advantage is negated? I mean, I've never stripped the head of a JIS headed screw in an rc car as the torque required to screw it into plastic isn't enough to cause cam-out. So is it just the way they look? (they do look better in my opinion)
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