Jump to content

rich_f

Members
  • Content Count

    380
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

255 Excellent

About rich_f

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    11723

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Looks like the paint didn't stick immediately and surface tension caused little holes to form as the paint tries to pull itself back together. I agree that it was a little on the cold side for spray painting (a warm shell would tend to make the paint dry out a little and become sticky), but I can't help but wonder if it wouldn't eventually all get covered up if you just did several more coats? I mean, if the dark spots are just where the paint is thin, then more coats will make them in away?
  2. They're actually only very expensive outside of Japan, where their price is hugely inflated over what they cost there. But the contents of the boxes are the same, i.e., we pay 'high quality' prices for what in Japan is quite cheap.
  3. Do you want the whole kit or would you accept it from parts, e.g., a new unpainted body (this shell was recently re-released), a set of stickers and a chassis from a different car? You might be more likely to find parts to make it than the whole thing if that's acceptable to you.
  4. I don't know what it is about official tamiya photos of their models these days but they never seem to look very good, whether it's because of the angle or lighting or ride height or something else I don't know, but when people on here show their own photos of the same cars they look so much better, this one included. It looks great. Good work on the 3D modelling of the diffusers and other parts too. Do you make any of your work available to other to print themselves?
  5. It's because they aren't sealed at the factory, but by the importer/distributor, as has been mentioned several times in various threads, much to people's surprise. I personally love the fact that models in general aren't sealed up at the factory - and aren't sealed by importers to the UK. I like to be able to open them up in the shop to see inside. Also it's a needless waste of plastic. Everything's already sealed in bags inside the box anyway. Back to topic - I'm tempted to get one of these if they remain available for a while, but I'm also hoping they release a few more cars on this chassis.
  6. Won't the customs fees on arrival in the UK take it beyond the price of a locally-sourced one?
  7. What's the reasoning for painting the body on the inside but the roof on the outside?
  8. I agree and it's the reason I lost interest in racing. I can't afford to have umpteen different sets of tyres for the particular track and the conditions at the time. I started racing on polished wood floor, then indoor on carpet (both of which only required a single tyre type to be competitive) then outdoor on tarmac tracks with a single control tyre. I had a few years off then started racing in the iconic cup but since tyres are open, you really need a selection of compounds, otherwise you've only really got the best-suited tyres for one part of the day, if that. (having said that, I haven't looked at the iconic rules for a few years so I'm not sure if the tyres are all still open)
  9. I've never bothered to by a crimping tool because I've never needed to make up more than a few connectors, and I've just soldered the wires to the connectors. Never had a problem doing it that way, plus it means you can re-use old connectors that have already been crimped, if they are still good otherwise. If it were me and I only needed the one switch cable extension, I'd search my spares to find one of those 2-pin connectors, decrimp them and solder then to some new cable. No need to buy a pack of a million that I'll never use.
  10. Old (not sure if any kits still come with them) tamiya 2-wire on/off switches have little red male and female 2-pin servo-style connectors. Wouldn't they be just right? Almost identical to the connectors in use amazon link you posted, except they are only 2 pins wide, so better suited to your application.
  11. Yes I was always amazed that my steel shafts would wear down faster than my plastic bushings/plain bearings, in my very early days of rc, before I could afford ball bearings. Brass is copper and zinc, not copper and tin.
  12. For what it's worth, immediately after I suggested using a Dremel, I said that a larger sanding drum on a drill would be more suited (though I count myself experienced enough at using a Dremel that I don't think I'd make the arch look any worse - I wouldn't recommend it as a first project for someone who's never used one before). I have a set of these, which you put in your drill and run at very slow speed if you want. They include a large diameter one which would be ideal for wheel arches. I've never had to use mine for that purpose, nor a Dremel for that matter, but I would if I felt like one of my bodyshells needed it. I hadn't considered using sandpaper over a makeshift mandrel and doing it by hand, though if you aren't confident with power tools, or don't have any, then this is certainly a viable option.
  13. I feel like a Dremel with a sanding drum would tidy it up quite a bit. Or maybe a larger sanding drum attachment for a drill might be better.
  14. The BMW, as screenshotted above, possibly one of truck norris'
  15. That may be so, but my comment still stands. I'd go out of my way to avoid him making any money from me. Looks like he may have used a member's photo without credit also...
×
×
  • Create New...