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rich_f

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  1. Not the tiger stripe one - they came with a special smaller diameter wheel and taller-sidewall to look more scale. Later escorts came with the now standard-sized touring wheel. The tiger stripe escort wheels are in between m-chassis and touring size.
  2. Have a look at this other topic (link below) where I've posted a picture of my TA01 with brat tyres on tiger stripe escort wheels. They do spin a bit so might need gluing but there's no sidewall stretching like these would be on normal touring wheels, and m-chassis wheels would be far too small. Edit: the thumbnail below isn't the photo I'm referring to, at least when viewed on my phone. See the picture in the thread itself
  3. Sorry - I've only just seen this. Looks like I don't visit this part of the forum very often! Regarding the Leopard, I've not had much time for this, or many of my tamiya projects for that matter, as we've recently bought a house and I have been spending most of my free time doing diy to fix the place up, and I've only got as far as taking the gearbox out of the hull. It has a lot of detail parts on the outside missing, plus only half of the main gun is present, so I'll probably have a go a making some replacement parts at some point in the future. For the time being though, it is sat waiting for my attention like the rest of my projects ☺
  4. For me at least, it's the proportions, not the style per se. The proportions of the super avante body are all wrong - not pleasing to the eye at all. The proportions of this new astute look much better - at least from the few, (intentionally) poorly lit shots of it we have so far.
  5. I'm sorry to hear about your dad and the trouble you're now having. For some genuine 'no-budget' drifting, I'd swap the gear diff to the rear, lock it up with blu-tac or similar putty and wrap electrical tape around your existing tyres, then find a bit of dusty tarmac and drift away.
  6. Given that you've said that you want to and not compete in drifting competitions, I would say that @Mad Ax's suggestion to do what people used to do years ago* would be ideal. It's almost exactly what I did with my own TA-02 about 15-20 years ago, except I just wrapped the tyres with a few turns of black vinyl electrical tape. It has very little grip so you can easily get drifting. Sure it doesn't look exactly like real rear-wheel drive drift cars, but it's still fun to drive. * aren't there also modern tamiya drift kits that are just regular 4WD touring car chassis with hard drift tyres? (i.e., equivalent to putting hard plastic tyres on a TA-02)
  7. Well - if you put another bushing on the outside, the wheel nut would clamp the pair of bushings together against the pin onto the wheel, making it less likely to slip.
  8. Couldn't you make one from a plastic plain bearing (bushing) of the same size as the existing bearing recess? You'd just have to cut a slot in it for the pin, then glue it into the wheel so that it doesn't just spin.
  9. @Kol__ - when I was reading your first post I thought to myself this is just like me. And this has got me into trouble a few times at home...
  10. Have you considered the wheels from the 1/12th scale static kits - either the wheels from the kits or aftermarket versions? Not necessarily a cheap route though.
  11. Or the short ball nuts are 9808012/19808012. I have some here and indeed they don't stick to a magnet.
  12. I think the effect on the crossover might be more significant. And I think that taller ratios will be more affected by the unmodelled losses than the shorter ones. I'll try to explain why I think this. Your current model says that as long as there is some torque (given by the torque curve on the backs of boxes) then the car will keep accelerating until there is none. Shorter gear ratios decrease wheel torque less than taller ratios, therefore taller ratios have less torque at all speeds than shorter ones. Since actual acceleration is proportional to the excess force (after losses), taller ratios, which have less wheel torque (force) than shorter ratios at a given motor rpm, will hit their limit at lower rpm than shorter ratios. The outcome is that there will be a point where going to a taller ratio results in a lower top speed in addition to lower acceleration than a shorter one (just as @Wooders28 recalls) - something your current graphs don't express. So I think there will be a qualitative change as well as a quantitative one with the speed-related losses considered.
  13. There are two ratios that people often conflate: gear ratio and speed ratio. Generally people say gear ratio but they actually mean speed ratio. So a 7:1 ratio like a typical rc car means the pinion is spinning 7 times for every one rotation at the wheels. As a gear ratio, this would be 1:7. Confusingly, it is also possible (though not in a typical rc car) to have a 7:1 gear ratio, i.e., 7 times more teeth on the driving gear than on the driven one. So which is the 'higher' ratio - 1:7 or 7:1?
  14. That's not all it would do. It would also reduce speed all along the curve, because acceleration, as you say, depends on the amount by which the tractive force exceeds the speed-related losses. With unmodelled losses all along the curve, the taller gear ratios, which provide less torque at the wheel than shorter ones, so will have less excess tractive force than shorter ratios, therefore are shown in a much more optimistic light than would be the case in reality. I'm other words, the unmodelled speed-related losses will disproportionately affect the taller gear ratios, so your graphs would look very different with them included in the model, and not just a shift downward for all ratios equally.
  15. I think you have to remember that the gears inside the diff don't move anywhere near as fast as the rest of the gears in the drivetrain. They only move during cornering, and even then only very slowly, at a rate proportional to the difference in path length of the inside and outside tyres around the corner, which is probably why no appreciable additional wear is being reported. I have also used this method with no extra wear.
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