Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

165 Excellent

About rich_f

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. If you'll settle for a new one, TQ Racing Model (on Facebook) has just restocked and has a few. They don't appear to have a web store but their Facebook 'about' page has an email address and it says they ship worldwide. No idea on price though. Looks like rcjaz has them in stock too.
  2. The original instructions that came with these parts instruct you to seal the edges with cyanoacrylate (super glue) for the very reason you state. It darkens the edges and prevents picking up nasty glass fibre splinters. The TA-01 / TA-02 (FF01) is my favourite chassis and the bodies that came on these are just the best in my opinion. I'd love a castrol supra add gtr-lm of my own one day. I do have several others though and in my experience, the shorter king pins for the TA-02 uprights are always black whereas the longer TA-01 king pins (for the red uprights used in the W) are always a goldy colour. Are you sure you've put the correct ones in?
  3. But yours is the later R34 version, which has 6-spoke wheels (and later used 5-spoke wheels). Those mesh wheels are for the R33 version.
  4. Metal Polish turns black when polishing metal because of the very fine metal particles that are produced. Tamiya polishing compound probably isn't as abrasive as metal polish (it doesn't need to be) so it doesn't go black as quickly (or at all) when used on metal. If you use metal polish on a painted surface, it will probably take on the colour of the paint. Metal polish, in my experience at least, also contains oily solvents whereas tamiya polishing compound doesn't (at least, it doesn't smell like metal polish) so may not do the same evaporation trick that the tamiya stuff does.
  5. Yeah, so you've got to keep all your paperwork... It seems like in America, the amount of capital gains tax you are liable for depends on your total taxable income and not on how much profit you make, which seems silly and will discourage selling on places like ebay using anything other than cash. I was expecting to find a 'personal allowance' which is an amount of profit you can make without being liable for tax, but couldn't see one. Here in the UK we can earn £6000 of profit on personal sales before being liable for any capital gains tax, which is plenty to cover the occasional profit-making sale on eBay. Plus the majority of us don't need to file our own taxes - it's all done automatically. I can't imagine what a pain that must be to do.
  6. The way I understood it is that you've always been required to send a form in when you sell things for profit - the difference now is that now you will get a 1099 from paypal or whoever automatically once you've met the $600 threshold (previously $20,000). It's up to you to state whether the sales were at a loss when you file your returns, otherwise the IRS will consider it profit and therefore taxable. More info here https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/small-business/payment-app-taxes-form-1099k
  7. After the small amount of research I just did on this new law, it appears that while you will have to report online sales (using electronic payments) over $600 in a year, you won't necessarily have to pay tax on them. You only pay tax if you've made a profit, which seems fair enough. I can see how people might want to avoid another tax form (even if they wouldn't be liable for any more tax) but it looks like it only applies to electronic payments through apps like ebay and only if they are business payments, so cash and 'friends and family ' type payments are exempt, even if you make a profit...
  8. And some advice for the future - try to minimise the amount of painted surface that any masking tape/fluid is actually touching, as the adhesive can affect the paint (but I have never had a problem with tamiya masking tape). In other words, if you're only painting the window trim, only put the masking tape around the window trim. The rest of the body can be covered with newspaper or a cut-up plastic bag or whatever, which is then secured to the body by taping it to the tape you just put around the window trim. And for this you can get away with cheap painters masking tape. This has 2 benefits: 1. If you're unlucky enough to have a bad reaction like this, it localises any damage caused by the adhesive to just the bit around the newly painted area (minimising the area needed to be repaired) 2. It reduces the amount of expensive masking tape/fluid needed to do the job
  9. As a previous poster has said, why not try a paint cutting compound to see if it polishes out before you go down any of the more serious routes? You can get some marketed at modellers or you can use stuff for full-size cars. I personally use one called mer. T-cut is another but I've had it soften paint before. There are plenty of others.
  10. They are FRP rather than CF, but regardless, the originals when bought as the set (rather than just the plate as a spare part as you have) came with special short step screws for this reason, if I remember correctly. Mine have long since been swapped for ball nuts as I also installed adjustable upper arms. This would be another option to remove the slop.
  11. This implies stickers should only be applied to perfectly flat surfaces, and anything else would cause delamination. This is of course nonsense - vinyl stickers are not the same as plywood - they are designed to be stuck to the curved surfaces of rc car bodies, which can have curvatures with much smaller radii than that cardboard tube they were delivered in.
  12. Items are sent rolled up in tubes to prevent creasing - not encourage it. It's difficult to crease something when it's inside a rigid tube. The creasing in the photo above almost certainly happened as a result of careless handling prior to sending, which could just as easily have happened if it were subsequently sent in flat envelopes. Bubbling would only occur if the sheet was rolled much tighter than the roll it originally came on. Again that would only be as a result of carelessness on the part of the sender and not an intrinsic problem with sending things in a tube. As for print rubbing, I don't understand how this would be any different to placing the cut-down sheets against each other in a flat envelope, except that in an envelope, they are less protected from outside forces than in a thick cardboard tube. I fully agree that it is unusual to have them delivered in a tube, but that is the least of the problems with them, and maybe is more a reflection of the sender's lack of care and attention to detail. I've ordered from MCI in the past and have opened the envelope to find multiple copies of certain parts of the sticker sheet because they obviously came out bad the first time and he re-printed them, realising that if he had sent only the result of the first print run, it wouldn't have been good enough for the customer. So he used to care about his work, but it looks like his standards have slipped, as he hasn't included reprints of the misprinted stickers in the OP's order (those numbers are particularly bad, with large sections of black missing), has creased them during handling and has left the inconvenience of unrolling and flattening of the sheets to the buyer.
  13. I would have thought that it is perfectly obvious to send in a roll considering the sticky vinyl sheet comes on a roll anyway. As above, the vinyl comes on a roll of similar diameter. Not sure what the issue is, other than the inconvenience of having to unroll and flatten before cutting them out. Obviously it would have been preferable to have them delivered flat - I can only guess that he's busy and lacks the time to cut the sheets down into envelope-sized pieces and chooses to keep the sheets larger and send in tubes (where economically viable) to save time.
  14. Little details like this make all the difference. It's a cool-looking car, but I prefer the C9, which tamiya makes a 1/24th plastic model of. Too bad they didn't make that in 1/10th.
  15. I would say that if you use tape, make sure your paint is thick enough because on one of my shells, the glue from the tape (it wasn't tamiya branded) has affected the paint slightly and the effect is visible from the outside. The paint on that shell is quite thin though I use a small square of foam on top of the lower body pins so they don't touch the paint on the underside of the shell. It also takes the slack out so the body doesn't rattle.
  • Create New...