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rich_f

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  1. Have a search for 'rc stealth mounts'. This should give you an idea of what's available. There are magnetic ones and other designs by the looks of it. I've not got any myself - I just put up with the holes and a small amount of mount sticking through.
  2. Try applying the load that your 1:1 car usually deals with on a daily basis to your 1:10 car (even with oil/grease) and see how long they last! RC cars take a miniscule fraction of the load of a full size car - it may only be 1/10th the length but it is 1/1000th the volume, mass, weight. They cannot be compared in this way as the loads are so different. Nobody in their right mind would consider running real car (or any heavy machinery) without lube in the bearings, but I haven't oiled the bearings in my rc cars - ever, except maybe after cleaning them and then only with very light oil like gt85. Nor do I use any grease on the gears. You absolutely don't need it. The only oil I use regularly is on the bushings in motors without ball bearings, and grease inside diffs when building them. This is my experience anyway, using my cars in club racing on and off for the past 20 years.
  3. Yes - it appears some people are giving advice for affixing lenses, while others are giving advice for light buckets. The OP mentions double-sided tape, so I imagine that means light buckets. (I only have a couple of cars with light buckets but they both use tape to hold them to the body). And since they are usually affixed to a painted section of the inside of the body, you have to be careful that the adhesive you use doesn't affect the paint - otherwise you might see it from the outside of the body.
  4. Yes sorry - when you said he'd need longer shafts I assumed you meant drive shafts (dogbones) and not wheel axles, which I forgot to mention. The wheel axles for the ta01 front uprights are the same as the ta01/ta02 rears, hence the need to change the bearings. Kingpins are the gold-coloured ones for the ta01, m03 (early - they changed the design for the m variant), tl01 and many others probably. 53141 is the lightweight version. Not sure what the standard ones are but you may have some spare standard gold ones from another kit. If you don't feel like you want the hassle or expense of changing the uprights, bearings, kingpins and wheel axles, you could get 5mm extra width by using larger offset wheels, or even by using larger wheel hexes with a shallow wheel nut.
  5. You'll need different bearings and different king pins. You won't need longer shafts though. The 02 has the longer shafts already. 01 shafts are shorter, as are the bottom arms. The 02 with 01 uprights is the configuration for the ta02w
  6. This works on real cars because the details are also 1:1. On a model, the details (like panel lines) are reduced in size, but the paint is the same thickness, so going over the top of old paint starts to hide details (and sanding it risks removing raised details). Removing the old paint using some kind of stripper is the only way to ensure this doesn't happen. This is true at least for the 1/24th models I've built. Not sure about the bigger scale models like this truck. 1/24th models are also made me polystyrene and what always worked for me was brake fluid. I used to submerge the whole body in a tub of it, but for your truck you'd need a lot to do that. Paint came right off, though.
  7. Or use shorter springs. Then the extra length isn't a problem.
  8. It used to be the case that minis were for touring cars but at some point the super minis became the touring car size (maybe with the introduction of the tt01?) in addition to m chassis size (although very early m chassis uses the mini size I think)
  9. Hmm, £10 seems a lot for a can of paint. I use regular artists liquid acrylics through an airbrush, which is much cheaper, but even tamiya paints can be bought cheaper than £10. Eurocarparts has some for £6.50 ish but granted they might not have the colours you want.
  10. According to Mr Tamiya himself, the ratio for the sport tuned in the ta02 is 6.73:1, which is the 25/69 combination. See here https://tamiyabase.com/downloads/download-categories/download/34-tamiya-parts-instructions/88283-53127
  11. Yes they appear to be very active on Facebook. Maybe that's your best bet at getting a response.
  12. No, but you're giving it a good try!
  13. I bought my first tamiya rc in the same year, a ta02 similar to your hummer. Tamiyas of this era came as standard in the uk with a mechanical speed controller as to include an esc would have made them prohibitively expensive I imagine. They are included these days of course as the price of electronics falls over time. MSCs from this era had the receiver power cable as it was considered normal by that time for receivers to have BEC, so no need for a separate 4xAA pack. Yes that sounds perfect.
  14. Absolutely agree that the tamiya (and other brand) box artwork really is art and deserves to be kept. I wish I kept all the boxes from the 1/24th plastic models I've made over the years. Would make cool garage wall art. What I could throw away though is the modern tamiya boxes that just have photos of cars on the front, or worse, a generic box with a small sticker of a photo of the car. What happened to the hand-drawn artwork!? The boxes look boring now. 😔
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