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About rich_f

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  1. You'll not find a chart to cover all cars because the final drive [gearbox] ratio doesn't consider the wheel diameter, which could be one of several sizes, so a motor/final drive ratio that works for an m chassis would not work for a touring car or buggy, for example. As has already been said, the manuals for individual cars or even the manual for hop-up motor mounts will tell you what is recommended on a per-chassis basis.
  2. If you're scanning the carbon parts, can you also scan the fibreglass parts from the HPI tub chassis? I have the tub (came in a job lot I bought years ago) but not the 2 frp parts that make up the top deck and battery holder. I have a sheet of black frp and I'd love to get it restored so I can make it into a full chassis again.
  3. Easy - the most downforce has to be the Suzuki Escudo Pike's Peak. And although it looks like it might be fictional, it's not.
  4. And the ta02 high speed gear set (47393), so that's two now 😁
  5. If the specs listed on the rcmart page are anything to go by, the only major difference is that there's no titanium screws. But you do get carbon fibre damper mounts which the original didn't have. And no blister packs - well, better to have less plastic packaging, right? According to rcmart, it comes with the one-way and the aluminium diffs. Too bad it doesn't come with an aluminium motor mount, but the original didn't either, much to my surprise when I found out just now.
  6. Both sets come as pairs, i.e., one 'short' and one 'long' (in reality they are both the same size, it's just that one has a pin pressed into it and the other has a hole for the pin to slide into. The 53217 set has shorter splined sections than the 53218 set as 53218 is for the gear diff, which has deeper splined holes than the ball diff.
  7. 53217 for ball diff 53218 for gear diff
  8. One reason I can think of is that aluminium tape has no elasticity, meaning when you stick it to uneven surfaces with complicated curves (like the inside of a car body) it conforms to the shape and doesn't try to return to its previous shape, meaning it stays stuck. Also, if you don't quite stick it right into a sharp corner, you can press it in afterwardstand it will stretch, and the lack of elasticity means it doesn't eventually pop back out. This may only be possible with non-fibre reinforced versions, however, as the fibres may resist stretching.
  9. The TT-01 is manufactured still, under the 'E' variant. The point of this series is that it is supposed to be for 'iconic' (read 'old') cars, so there's no TA-05, 6, 7, etc., no FF-03, 4, no TT-02, no M-05, 6, 7, 8, and so on for the other chassis types. I use an AMBrc personal transponder that I've had since the early 2000's and works with the timing gear they use at iconic races. I'm not sure what else is available these days.
  10. This is one of the things I don't like about the iconic cup vs. the original eurocup - unlimited tyre choice just prices me out of the game. Without a selection of tyre compounds for the often changing conditions throughout the day, your chances of keeping up with the leaders are reduced. Eurocup stock class, by contrast, was kit tyres only.
  11. If you're stripping the teeth of the spur gear with a sport tuned (and not driving full speed into solid walls, or landing huge jumps with the throttle on full) then I suggest there's either something wrong with the motor mount, or you've mounted the motor in the wrong holes for the chosen pinion size, or you've got the wrong pitch pinion gear. Which pinion are you using, what pitch, how many teeth and in which holes are you mounting the motor?
  12. What exactly gets broken? The teeth on the spur? The teeth on the counter gear? Something else? I used to race my top force with an 11 turn brushed motor and no gearbox reinforcement, on tracks with jumps, and never had any problems with the gears, let alone any broken ones. I broke an aluminium prop shaft once, and bent some titanium rear damper mount screws, but never gears. Like the other members have suggested, it sounds like you've got an issue somewhere else causing your breakages. Are you using an aftermarket aluminium motor mount? Have you made sure you are using the correct mounting holes for the chosen pinion? Are you using the 'modified' motor mount, which allows the use of larger pinions to the original/standard version? (in this case, the mounting hole positions are not the same as the standard one)
  13. Here's one with a pretty clear depiction of how to wire it up and good explanations of how it works. Regarding current limitation, you just need to choose one with low drain source resistance and high drain current rating - this is all explained on that page linked above. A quick search of RS shows you can get them with current ratings over 100 amps and on-resistance in the milliohms. I wonder if you could do something simpler to prevent putting the cells in the wrong way though, something like modifying the shape of the battery holder and the cells so they can only fit in one way around. The same would have to be done with the charger too, though. Having said that, if you're happy they will be able to put the cells in the charger the correct way around, then maybe they'll be fine doing the same with the battery holder in the car?
  14. A post in this thread suggests that reversing the polarity will cause the tble-02s esc to fail, though seemingly repairably. I guess you'll have to try to make it as foolproof as you can with markings and colour-coding, which it sounds like you've got covered. If you were really worried, you could add reverse polarity protection with a low-resistance p-channel mosfet (instructions can be found online).
  15. That holder looks better than the one with the spindly spring contacts, especially since you've beefed it up a bit with that thicker bridging wire. Any bottleneck now is the relatively small contact patch of each cell on the contacts. The only comment I have now is what about reverse polarity protection? It looks like someone could easily put the cells in the wrong way around. I'm not familiar with that esc but I've known others to fail immediately upon connecting a battery the wrong way.
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