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  1. This popped up on my YouTube feed last night - Video about vacuum forming using silicone molds - and thought of sharing it with you. Though it sounds like you may have already seen it, or something like it. Anyway, with the method shown, you can get very detailed and scale-looking overhangs with a one-piece mold.
  2. One more idea if you don't get anywhere with trying to unscrew it from the hole - but also want to keep the upright as a spare - is to get a soldering iron and touch it to the broken screw so that the plastic softens enough for you to either unscrew it or just push it out. It doesn't matter if you destroy the internal threads in the plastic because you can use a ball nut and regular screw as mentioned above - you just need the hole.
  3. You may be able to file or grind a small slot into what remains of the threaded part and use a small flat-headed screwdriver to remove it like a grub screw. You should then be able to keep these parts as spares - with the bonus that they're already threaded for the next ball studs.
  4. Plastic bags certainly are better in many ways than what they replaced, but they aren't perfect by any means, so there must be something better. The problem is what happens with them after they have been used (and since they are single use, they become 'used' very quickly). They get thrown away and then sit in the ground or work their way into the ocean for centuries. Single use plastic really has been a wonder product - it's cheap, lightweight and easy to work with, but don't you think it would be better if single-use, 'disposable' plastic didn't sit around in the environment forever, causing problems to animals and humans alike? Plant-based plastics might be an option as a replacement for current petroleum-based single-use plastics, especially for plastic wraps and bags that will be immediately thrown away. They'll either degrade gracefully back into non-harmful components or if they are burned, they are at least from a renewable source. Another (perhaps better) option is to reduce their use. A lot of plastic is used in places it really doesn't need to be - I've seen cabbages wrapped in it... They have their own wrapping! We've not used cling film in our house for years now - and I really don't need a brand new plastic bag every time I go shopping. Thankfully this has largely stopped now (at least in Europe) but it still annoys me when people in front of me in the queue at the supermarket grab a load of new bags for their shopping, only then to take it out to their car... How hard is it to keep a few bags in your car!? And plastic bags are so light and take up such a tiny amount of space that you can easily keep one in a pocket in case you're out without your car and unexpectedly decide to buy something. There's really no excuse anymore not to reduce plastic usage.
  5. I have the 2005 release and just checked - it doesn't have the round hole.
  6. Interesting - I bought a set of these for my re-released top force in the mid-2000s, making them about 15-20 years old. I also joined tamiya club in the mid-2000s, and at that time, models from the 80s were considered vintage. Do things need to be older now to be considered vintage?
  7. This - but I would also suggest using a plate front and back to spread the load on the remaining part of the mount, preferably going all the way across to the other side like Nicadraus'.
  8. Ah ok. In my experience, the quality of GPM parts is often orders of magnitude lower than Tamiya's. I can't speak for the 'assemble yourself' version of the Tamiya motor mount, which appears to be how it comes these days, but the original tamiya-assembled one I have (bought over 20 years ago) has never come loose, and I've used it both on- and off-road. One way to get around the possibility of those screws coming loose is to change them for really long screws so the ends come all the way out and through the other side of the gearbox, where you'd normally put the last 2 screws in to attach it to the car. Then you can use nuts to attach it instead.
  9. Two of the screws that come with the tamiya one are part of the mount itself and only need to be attached once (or not at all if you have an original as they came pre-assembled originally) - you don't need to remove them to remove the motor, so not really the disadvantage you make it out to be.
  10. Very large capacity batteries tend to be physically larger than smaller capacity ones of the same chemistry. I've gotten around this in the past by removing the plastic end pieces from the battery and replacing the heatshrink wrapping.
  11. Is there really a need to remove it? Can't you just sand it smooth and prime/paint over it? When real cars get resprayed, they don't normally take it back to metal. Regarding your bodyshell with paint flecks - have you considered painting it from the outside, also like real cars? You'd no longer have the problem of seeing all the blue flecks through the polycarbonate. You could even paint the inside primer colour or silver, so that if it gets scratched during running, you see the primer or 'metal' body underneath.
  12. If these are the ones linked on the previous page, then no, they aren't copies of HPI vintage wheels and no, HPI vintage tyres (with the extended outer sidewall) will not fit. HPI vintage tyres have a bigger outer diameter, closer to, if not the same as, regular touring car tyres, so wouldn't be right for this car anyway. It looks like those L&L wheels and tyres are copies of HPI MX60 wheels and tyres, marketed for their 'cup racer' series. According to HPI's page, they have an outer diameter of 60mm (hence the name, I guess), but then this makes them the same as tamiya 60D M-Chassis tyres. So I'm not sure why Tamiya's 60D tyres wouldn't have worked on the Talbot. I feel like we need a definitive wheel/tyre thread with actual wheel and tyre diameters for us scale enthusiasts to use as a guide when selecting suitable scale wheels and tyres.
  13. If you'll settle for a new one, TQ Racing Model (on Facebook) has just restocked and has a few. They don't appear to have a web store but their Facebook 'about' page has an email address and it says they ship worldwide. No idea on price though. Looks like rcjaz has them in stock too.
  14. The original instructions that came with these parts instruct you to seal the edges with cyanoacrylate (super glue) for the very reason you state. It darkens the edges and prevents picking up nasty glass fibre splinters. The TA-01 / TA-02 (FF01) is my favourite chassis and the bodies that came on these are just the best in my opinion. I'd love a castrol supra add gtr-lm of my own one day. I do have several others though and in my experience, the shorter king pins for the TA-02 uprights are always black whereas the longer TA-01 king pins (for the red uprights used in the W) are always a goldy colour. Are you sure you've put the correct ones in?
  15. But yours is the later R34 version, which has 6-spoke wheels (and later used 5-spoke wheels). Those mesh wheels are for the R33 version.
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