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rich_f

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Everything posted by rich_f

  1. Hmm - so I might have to buy the rest of your rear kit too! Or I could try making a brace out of some frp plate I have here to go over the existing rear shock tower, rather than replace it entirely. I'll have to use longer screws and remove some plastic from the upper arms to about for the extra thickness, or swap them for ball ends.
  2. I've just started cleaning up an ff01 I got in a job lot and it has a broken rear shock tower, where the top arm attaches, so I'm going to need something to either fix it or replace it with. How much did the rear shock mount cost from fibre-lyte and can anyone order it from them now? I notice they don't have any ff01 parts listed on their website.
  3. Yes that would do nicely, but there never seems to be any information on the width and wheelbase of these truck shells, so I can never know if it will fit the chassis. Or if it does say the wheelbase, it's well over 239mm so wouldn't fit even if I flip the rear arms. It looks like I'll need to do some research to find out the measurements of the chassis that the Bigfoot is supposed to go on. Even then though, that won't tell me the actual shell width and wheelbase as monster usual chassis wheelbase is usually longer than the body...
  4. That is exactly the kind of look I was thinking of. Now, clod bodies are quite pricey and I don't know if they have the same track width and wheelbase of the ta-01.
  5. I quite like the look of the big tyres on the escort wheels, plus I like the idea of having another car that will work off road - I have a top force but the rest of my collection is on-road. I think an escort with these tyres wouldn't look right, hence the idea of using a truck body. Just need to find one that will fit, and not break the bank. I've had a look at some truck shells and so far I've only seen ones with very long wheelbases, and are probably wider than the standard ta-01 escort track width. Here's a picture of the car. The wheels really are a good fit for brat tyres.
  6. I have just finished rebuilding a TA-01 tiger stripe escort that I got it a job lot but it came with no body and no tyres. Also in the job lot was a set of subaru brat tyres, which, wouldn't you know, are an almost perfect fit for the slightly-smaller-than-usual touring and rally car wheels that come with the tiger stripe escort. Now I'm wondering what body I could put on this rally car chassis with beefy-looking brat tyres? I'm thinking some kind of truck but I hate the look of modern trucks and the older looking ta02 truck bodies, which are more to my taste, are rare and expensive. The tyres for these tiger stripe wheels are super rare so I imagine that there are loads of these wheels out there with no hope of getting the original tyres for them. Has anyone else used brat tyres on escort tiger stripe wheels on the TA-01 and what body did you use?
  7. I sit mine on old tyres - they are matt black so unobtrusive, and would otherwise have gone into landfill.
  8. You can easily make your own tie rods of any length with some plain M4 threaded bar from the hardware store. All you need is a hacksaw and a file to clean up the cut ends.
  9. You mean for stickers that are already stuck to the body? No - this won't have any effect as the soap solution needs so come between the body and the adhesive. Even if there is a gap and it partiall wicks under, if most of the sticker is stuck down, it won't get under it and enable it to slide. For this method to work, the soap solution needs to coat the entire sticky surface of the sticker before it touches the body. Then when you apply pressure to stick the sticker down, and squeegee the solution out, the adhesive comes into contact with the body and becomes permanently stuck (well, as permanent as stickers can be, at least).
  10. Regarding stickering, try spraying the body with very dilute washing-up liquid solution on the area the sticker is to be applied (or simply dip the sticker in a small bath of the solution). The sticker floats on the layer of soap solution so you can position it while avoiding creases. Then once you're happy with the position, squeeze out the soap solution from the middle outwards. I did this on the last body I did, after only ever applying then dry, and it was so much easier to get good results. Applying heat using a hair drier also helps with creases on curved areas.
  11. The original photo showing the real rough rider 'fitting in the bed' of the truck actuall shows it not fitting in very well at all - the front wheels are resting on the cab or thereabouts and the rear wheels overhang the tailgate! I'm sure you could replicate something similar to that with your hilux (which is in all likelihood smaller than the truck in the photo) without the need to reduce the size of your rough rider by a factor of 2...
  12. The Mondeo was sold in the U.S., although under a different name - the ford contour or mercury mystique. The US versions don't look quite as nice as the European ones, in my opinion. You Americans have a knack of reducing the visual appeal of cars sold there but designed elsewhere 😆
  13. It was called the FF originally as that was the only front wheel drive chassis tamiya made (apart from the m01, which also proudly displayed 'FF' on the front of its box) and perhaps they didn't think it would catch on so didn't bother with a number. In fact, this may have happened with other chassis too - was the TA01 only named after the TA02 came out? Some old hop up parts' labels that I couldn't bring myself to throw away 25 years ago refer to TA02 by name, but refer to the FF01 and TA01 as 'FWD' and 'Touring and rally car' respectively.
  14. It's not the size of the ball connector that is important - it is the overall length of the rod measured from the centres of the ball ends - so not being that accurate on the cut in the instructions is not a big deal. It just means that you will lose a bit of the adjustment potential - the amount you lose is the size of the error in the cut, and there is probably plenty of spare thread to allow for a little inaccuracy in the trimming procedure. As for why short connectors are not included, I can only imagine that it is because the parts tree containing this part is used on other models and making an entirely new mold just to change one part was not cost effective. Tamiya in the past may have just included both lengths on the tree but maybe they are trying to save the planet with less plastic use - one pair of ball connectors at a time.
  15. When you say 'right direction' I assume you mean the toe angle? You shouldn't be changing the camber to adjust the toe - this is what the steering linkages are for, and as berman says, your steering linkages are different lengths left and right, so at the very least, these are not set up correctly. And I agree with Svenb that your camber looks wrong on the front wheels - i.e., the top arms are adjusted too long. Shortening them will bring the tops of the wheels inwards and help to clear the wheelarches - and improve handling, too (you don't usually want the top of the wheel farther out than the bottom).
  16. My guess is that this 'anodised' paint is laying down a very thin layer of mirror-like particles, like the alclad model paints Juggular alluded to earlier, albeit with some coloured tint. Then you can use the analogy of a 2-way mirror to explain why black makes the transparent mirror layer opaque without muddying it: a 2-way mirror is transparent when there is light behind it, but when the other side of the mirror is totally dark, it becomes a near-perfect mirror.
  17. You have to remember that 'high' prices in the USA are still half what it costs here in Europe. We haven't had fuel as *cheap* as you have in America right now for over 30 years!
  18. Considering that the two outdrives move independently of one another, gluing them together via the hole in the centre would be a bad idea. It would essentially create a locked diff (if the glue held up). The glue should be applied to the splined hole, as the outdrive and outer diff plate should behave as a single component during correct operation of a differential.
  19. That diff surely looks like a tt01 ball diff to me...
  20. The mini originally came with 10 inch wheels and either and 850, 998 or 1275cc A-series engine. Over the years the standard wheel size got bigger and I think the later ones only came with the 1275 (1.3 litre) with injection. So the American one is no different to what was available in the uk in terms of wheel size and engine displacement. My mini is from the early 80's and originally came with a 998cc engine and 12 inch wheels. Now it has a 1293cc turbocharged A-series (with about 200 horsepower) and 10 inch wheels! The 60d (and 55d) refers to the overall outer diameter of the wheel and tyre together - not the wheel itself. The wheel is the same standardised size in both cases, it's just the tyre wall height that is different. On the subject of wheels, m-chassis sized cars have a huge following in the rest of the world (from what you've been saying, it sounds like they are not very popular in the USA) and there are many wheels and tyres in 55 and 60mm outer diameter available from other manufacturers.
  21. Tracks look like tiger 1 tracks. Not sure if tamiya or not.
  22. White gears are tt01. Are they not white anymore? I've got 2 and they both have white gears. The black random diff looks like the hop up ball diff for tt01. Missing a piece though. Agree with Sven about the ta02 frp damper mount, f103 top deck and ta03 diff bag.
  23. I love the ff bodyshells. The jaccs colour scheme is one of my favourites. I've got a castrol civic body set and I'm planning on doing the jaccs scheme on that - with just paint. I've picked up all the colours - just waiting for the right time. Was going to get the accord body set too but I missed the boat on the recent release unfortunately and any left are a bit too expensive now.
  24. 12"? Why so big! My 1:1 mini has 10" wheels! I'm not sure how real scale wheels will look on the tamiya mini body - the early one (with the separate grille piece) has smaller wheel arches I think so that would probably be the best choice. I'm thinking that the arches on the later one-piece body will look too big for scale 10" wheels. For most of the cars tamiya makes, the standard 'one-size' wheels and tyres don't look too bad as they are generally modern racing cars, but as you say, there are several classic cars for which the modern wheel and tyre proportions look silly (not limited to being too wide as you suggest, but also taller sidewall profile). The 40th anniversary Porsche 934 model (and the black version) use the wheels from the 90's 993 GT2, for example; their width is fine, but their sidewall profile is far too low for that car. What's even worse, at least in my opinion, than reusing similar-looking wheels that aren't quite right, is making a totally new set of wheels specifically for a new model and still getting the proportions totally wrong - I'm thinking of the 30th anniversary Porsche 934 here, with those ridiculous huge wheels and rubber-band tyres. Looks like something out of 'pimp my ride'. @donut_v2 - what you're doing is really cool - I can't wait to see the finished model, and even more so what you will do next!
  25. The standard diff parts are made from 'pot metal' or some sort of zinc alloy, rather than aluminium as you state. Interesting idea to reduce their weight though, and they look so much better having been machined compared to the dull, cast finish of the originals. Almost a shame they will be hidden away!
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