rich_f

Sorry to hear about your incident, but glad it wasn't too bad in the end. Being someone who never moved away from using 27MHz AM radios, I wouldn't dream of turning off the transmitter first! Maybe this explains why some people never consider it to be a problem anymore - maybe they've never used an old-style radio. Even if you've never had it told to you explicitly, it makes sense that the transmitter should be the last thing you turn off, otherwise there's nothing in positive control of the car - you are only relying on whatever failsafes the designer of the electronics thought of, and that they are working as intended. Surely it's just safer to leave the tx off switch until last...

All very true, but this particular member joined nearly 20 years ago - easily checked by clicking on the name. He's certainly playing the long game, there...

Given all the non-liveried 'racing version' re-release bodyshells that have come out to date (and there's no sign of that trend stopping - the racing nsx just announced... Didn't see that coming - I have a couple of bodies I bought for restoring that I might not need to do anymore now that I can get new ones), I wonder if Tamiya will redo the r33 LM shell without livery. I'd buy one. Or several.

I'm also 40 and used a fet servo when I used to race. The one car I have now that uses one happens to have an esc with the fet servo lead, so I've not needed to do this, but apparently that lead is just the battery + wire anyway, so you can connect your 4th servo wire directly to the battery + (via an inductor as already mentioned, to filter out voltage spikes). Not sure why your esc started to overheat when you did this, unless it isn't designed to handle the amount of current that the 7.2 volt servo draws (the negative of the servo goes to the esc via the receiver, so the current through the servo goes through the esc also).

Absolutely as Willy says - just try a larger diameter screw for blind holes or a machine screw with a nut for through holes. So much stuff is thrown away when it can so easily be repaired, or at least made to work, because people are too quick to say it needs replacing...

These might be names for the hop-up suspension pin parts, but the OP was asking about the technical name for the standard parts (the screw pins, which don't have retaining clip grooves). I'm not sure what they are called but I don't see why they can't be a custom part made by, or for, tamiya, considering all of the other metal parts in tamiya cars that are not off the shelf items. If you have access to a lathe (or know someone with one) you might be able to find a 'normal' screw and just turn down the remainder of threads along the length of the shaft to create something similar. (maybe this is how tamiya makes them...)

It absolutely doesn't sound like a scam (yet). For this to sound like a scam, it would have to be asking for money, yet they explicitly state that they are not asking for any money, and all they want to know is if the address they have on record is still the same. Also when they say you can log in to check your details are correct, they don't even provide a (dodgy) link for you to click and be taken to the scammers website. So no scam there either. By responding to this email with what they've asked for, i.e., either yes or no, they have not gained any more information than they already had. Granted, it could turn into a scam, for example if they then reply asking for money for some reason, but as it stands, as we see the message, it doesn't sound like a scam at all. The op already said that the address it was sent from is the correct one, so the one in the message is probably just a typo.

Very noble of them to keep hold of people's ordered goods for 2 years, patiently waiting for the customers' preferred shipment method to resume service. I'd be extremely surprised if this were common practice anywhere else in the world. I imagine that they'd say - choose another shipping method, otherwise we'll give you a refund [because we don't want to keep your stuff in storage indefinitely]. Incidentally, did plaza Japan not get in touch with you at the time to say that your chosen shipping method has been discontinued and offer you an alternative?

Yes they do wear. When they get really bad you can just punch them out and replace them with a new pin.

In what way is it a huge benefit? I've bought many rc and static kits, never had one that was shrink wrapped, and never had one that had anything missing from inside (the opposite actually, where vendors put extra things in). For me, it would just be (yet) another bit of plastic to throw away.

According to the manual (for the original frp conversion set) they use different steering links. J1 and 2 for TA02 and J4 and 5 for the FF01.

As I began reading this post my immediate thought was - this sounds like an inductance problem. In order to reduce the inductance, you can use shorter wires, but can't you also twist the positive and negative battery wires together so that the magnetic fields cancel? No magnetic field, no inductance.

Why not do a test? Take it out for a decent run and feel the heatsink. If the motor is roasting and use heatsink is stone cold, not very. You'll hopefully be pleasantly surprised how warm it is. Use brass screws for better heat conduction to the heatsink.

There is no ''TA02SW carbon chassis' - it's just same one for all TA02 variants. It also fits the FF01. I think there might be specific parts on the plastic parts sprue that are for use with the FF01 (possibly steerijg links).

Bit of a discrepancy here...

Interesting. Is it because you don't like the way it sprays out of tamiya cans? Or is it for mixing purposes? Once decanted, do you respray it from an airbrush or just use a regular brush?

Surely Tamiya don't expect people to paint an entire car body with decanted paint from spray cans! Too bad they discontinued their PC paint series.

Anodising adds material, so increases the dimensions of the part. The amount by which the part increases in size is a known quantity though, so a good part designer will have taken this into account so that the final part is the right size. In terms of the final size not being 9mm as quoted, you're almost certainly not measuring the dimension that tamiya intended to be 9mm. Could it be a measurement from the centreline of the drive pin to the outer surface?

Not sure if this is universal but I get regular notifications offering me 'max £1 selling fees', so timing your listing to coincide with one of these offers can save save you money. I rarely sell anything but when I do, it's using one of these offers.

It comes with universal shafts. In the video you can see that the shaft has popped out of the gearbox joint end, but is still attached to the wheel end. Some longer gearbox joint cups should keep it in place.

It's to do with the inner wheel tracing out a smaller circle than the outer wheel. I imagine that the effect is that it reduces the slip angle on both wheels as they aren't trying to fight against each other to trace out their own circles.

I don't have any wheelie-popping vehicles, but here's some ideas to figure out what might be wrong (if anything) Take the motor out and run it at full speed. Note the tone it makes and compare this to the one from your daughter's truck, also removed from the truck, using the same battery. If it's the same kind of motor it should run at the same speed (same tone). This will give you an idea if the motor has lost some power. With the motor still out, give the wheels a spin. The drivetrain should spin freely. Do the same with your daughter's and compare. Any stiffness in the drivetrain should be readily apparent.

To try an actually answer your question, you may be able to get closer to 5 to 1 by just extrapolating Tamiya's own chart, shown in a previous post. Their chart for the smallest spur stops at 25T pinion in the hole for the 17T pinion. This implies a 26 will go in the hole marked for 18, 27 for 19, and so on. You may find that the larger pinions foul the gearbox itself, so this might need modification to fit. I doubt you'll get under 5 to 1 but it will be taller than Tamiya's tallest quoted ratio of 6.44 to 1.

It's just a normal wire - should be easy. Just make sure it's the right length. And speaking of antennas: This sounds dangerous - won't you get horrible interference from the power electronics? When I used to race, having the antenna wire too close to the other electronics caused glitching from interference.

Oh - I actually don't know about the width of the later one. I often find that tamiya bodyshells allow a little extra room than the standard width wheels on most of their bodies anyway. So you might find they still fit. Failing that, you can build the 2-piece wheels the other way around so that they have less offset. Would need to check they then don't foul the suspension, though. Another alternative is to use the narrow ones both on the front and the rear, and again you can build them 2 ways and have 2 different offsets of play with.