rich_f
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Posts posted by rich_f
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5 hours ago, topforcein said:
and second just treat it as you would a 1.1 car if that was being painted ...just sand it until smooth then shoot the new colour you want to use
This works on real cars because the details are also 1:1. On a model, the details (like panel lines) are reduced in size, but the paint is the same thickness, so going over the top of old paint starts to hide details (and sanding it risks removing raised details). Removing the old paint using some kind of stripper is the only way to ensure this doesn't happen.
This is true at least for the 1/24th models I've built. Not sure about the bigger scale models like this truck.
1/24th models are also made me polystyrene and what always worked for me was brake fluid. I used to submerge the whole body in a tub of it, but for your truck you'd need a lot to do that. Paint came right off, though.
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Or use shorter springs. Then the extra length isn't a problem.
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21 minutes ago, svenb said:
Aren't super mini cva's for M-chassis and mini for touring cars!?
It used to be the case that minis were for touring cars but at some point the super minis became the touring car size (maybe with the introduction of the tt01?) in addition to m chassis size (although very early m chassis uses the mini size I think)
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Hmm, £10 seems a lot for a can of paint. I use regular artists liquid acrylics through an airbrush, which is much cheaper, but even tamiya paints can be bought cheaper than £10. Eurocarparts has some for £6.50 ish but granted they might not have the colours you want.
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According to Mr Tamiya himself, the ratio for the sport tuned in the ta02 is 6.73:1, which is the 25/69 combination.
See here
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Yes they appear to be very active on Facebook. Maybe that's your best bet at getting a response.
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On 2/21/2021 at 9:00 AM, Quincy said:
I can`t buy all the FF-01s out there
No, but you're giving it a good try!
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55 minutes ago, wintersdawn said:
The Tamiya Hummer was released in 1995 but I have seen several with an MSC and am surprised as I would have thought ESC's were around by 1995, unless they wanted a retro set-up.
I bought my first tamiya rc in the same year, a ta02 similar to your hummer. Tamiyas of this era came as standard in the uk with a mechanical speed controller as to include an esc would have made them prohibitively expensive I imagine. They are included these days of course as the price of electronics falls over time.
MSCs from this era had the receiver power cable as it was considered normal by that time for receivers to have BEC, so no need for a separate 4xAA pack.
23 minutes ago, wintersdawn said:One of the receivers I can use is the one below and although on the front it doesn't say BEC, it does say 4.8 - 10V/DC, does this sound ok to use with the MSC when using the 7.2v main battery?
Yes that sounds perfect.
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17 minutes ago, 53HRA said:
Most certainly. The artwork, colour and detail is just something alot of people / collectors including myself like.
In all honesty they can become annoying and take up a fair bit of space but where possible i will put a box within another box to save space.
I could not throw one out, unless of course it is really badly damaged and cannot rescued...
Absolutely agree that the tamiya (and other brand) box artwork really is art and deserves to be kept. I wish I kept all the boxes from the 1/24th plastic models I've made over the years. Would make cool garage wall art.
What I could throw away though is the modern tamiya boxes that just have photos of cars on the front, or worse, a generic box with a small sticker of a photo of the car. What happened to the hand-drawn artwork!? The boxes look boring now. 😔
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Looking good. For the polished lip on those wheels to look more realistic I can recommend the Molotow chrome paint pen. It's way easier to use than Alclad airbrush paint and looks just as shiny.
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29 minutes ago, Boomstick said:
I still don't understand how brushless motor even work, how DO you energize the com with no brushes???
Well I can help you on this one - a 'com', or commutator, is the part of a motor that transfers current from the stationary part to the moving via brushes. Since brushless motors have no brushes, they've no need for a commutator (no electricity goes to the rotor - only the outside, or stator, of the brushless motor is energised).
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Wow. What an awesome collection. The jaccs civic is on my to-do list. I have the shell and what I believe to be the correct paint colours (or similar enough) so all I need to do now is create all the masks...
4 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:L and L models did a run of 850 Estate bodies last year. They've run out now, but you can register on their website to be notified next time they do a run of them
I saw this when it was announced and since some of their bodies are quite good, I had high hopes.
Alas, I was disappointed when I saw photos of the actual body, so didn't buy one. The bumpers and sides of the real car (and the tamiya version) go inwards at the bottom, whereas on the L&L one they go outwards, like a skirt, which doesn't look good in my opinion. Also the proportions aren't as good as on the tamiya one, so it just doesn't look right overall.
I don't really want the tamiya one either though, as I have the estate version as a real car and prefer the way it looks over the saloon. I wonder how @yogi-bear is getting on with his scratch-built 850 estate body...
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Love the volvo - I have the full size version, but the estate. Would have loved to see tamiya do the estate in rc.
Those 6-spoke primera wheels look very similar to some variant wheels for the taisan skyline - the 5-spoke ones that come with the kit aren't quite a match for the 5-spoke wheels the real car also wore (in fact, I can't find any photos of a group A skyline with the wheels tamiya provides in the kit for the taisan, calsonic or hks skylines...). Wouldn't mind a set myself, but seems that they are rare.
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8 hours ago, wtcc5 said:
I don't know if the plastic is a little translucent or if the pigments were not mixed properly before casting... It just looks not good in my eyes. I painted them silver with Tamiya TS color to make it better.
If you're going for realism, I'd say you should always paint the wheels - real car wheels aren't made of coloured plastic (and they are rarely bare metal either). Even if they're the right colour, plastic just doesn't look right compared to paint and it's because of the translucency you allude to (including with white wheels).
The same goes for the body too in my opinion. A lot of the full-size versions of tamiya cars have solid (i.e., not metallic or pearlescent) paint, which almost never has a clearcoat on top. Therefore solid-coloured cars should be painted on the outside for absolute realism, as otherwise you get a glassy look to the colour which just isn't there on the real thing. Just imagine how thick the polycarbonate would be if you scaled it up to full size - it would be equivalent to almost 1cm of clearcoat!
I paint my cars on the inside, of course, because polishing paint to achieve the shine that you get for free by painting on the inside would be time-consuming and not very enjoyable. The clear coat just doesn't look right sometimes though.
You've got an amazing collection which never seems to stop growing - will there be any ff01s left for the rest of us?
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4 hours ago, 87lc2 said:
I have never had a social media account and never will
Except for the social media account you're using now to make that post. Forums like this one are social media, too.
I think the difference between this and Facebook is that most people already have Facebook, so joining a Facebook group is a natural extension, and requires very little additional effort.
Joining and posting on a forum requires slightly more effort: need to open a browser, need to open individual sub-forums, need to open individual threads - only then do you get to see any content. With Facebook, it gives you a 'feed' and all you have to do is slide your thumb up your phone. It makes it more accessible.
Consequently, and for better or for worse, you get a more diverse range of people, as has been mentioned already.
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Just had a quick search and came across this this page, from which you can download a very long pdf conversion table of lots of paint manufacturers, and includes tamiya TS sprays, which many other conversion charts do not.
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19 minutes ago, Ryz82 said:
but the alternatives in the drift category are looking like larger diameter,
As I say, I think you'll find they're the same (standardised) outer diameter. The centre diameter might be different - i.e., there might be more or less of a lip which makes the wheel look a different diameter, but the outer diameter is standardised.
I have a few sets of 'drift' rims that luckily came without tyres, or the hard plastic tyres that they came with come off, and regular rubber touring car sized tyres (like the ones you listed in the original post) will fit. Can't be sure that's the case for all drift wheels though.
And as has been said before, 24, 25 & 26mm 'touring car sized' tyres and wheels all fit on each other (rubber is flexible)
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20 minutes ago, Ryz82 said:
I've started looking at some MST rims, are they predominately large diameter (since they are targetted at drift, which tend to run low profile tyres vs what the Tamiya Semi Slicks look) ?
I think you'll find that all modern (read: made after the 90's) 'touring car' wheels/rims/tyres are the same diameter. There are some exceptions like the HPI vintage and tamiya racing trucks, but most are the same.
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6 hours ago, svenb said:
Just had a quick look at the online manual and it says to paint the wheels!
5 hours ago, IoWBasher said:The wheels are blue already
If you are looking for realism, you should paint them whether they are already blue or not - the real car's wheels aren't made of blue plastic! (plastic has a different look to a painted finish)
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12 minutes ago, Gazzalene said:
Did you get hit with RM`s handling charge?
Nope, no additional charges.
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5 hours ago, nel33 said:
I just hope that user accepts your results for better or worse, some people may not be able to see science and facts for what they are.
It's not right to blindly accept results of a test because 'science' - the test may be flawed and not take certain things into consideration. This kind of thing can have serious consequences in the 'real' world regarding scientific research (like loss of funding for something that would be beneficial).
I'm not suggesting @mud4fun's test is flawed, but perhaps it is naive to suggest that simply lowering the mass of the battery (and make no other compensatory changes) will have the best outcome on performance.
As the OP stated himself, he once had to add mass to the front to improve grip, so removing mass will reduce grip.
Conversely, removing mass improves acceleration, under the assumption that the motor's torque is the same with both batteries, but since torque is proportional to current, which is proportional to voltage, and since voltage drops faster in batteries with lower capacity, this may not be the case over a full 5-minute race.
Also, depending on the track layout and surface quality, improved acceleration may outweigh loss of grip, or vice-versa.
Regarding mass, depending on how the battery's mass is positioned in the thundershot, simply reducing it may not be optimal, and at least some mass may need re-adding to recover lost downforce over a particular set of wheels.
Removing mass from the battery also gives you the chance to re-add it at a lower level, reducing the car's centre of mass and therefore improving handling characteristics.
So while simply replacing the battery with a lighter one may tell you if that change in isolation gives you a performance boost on your particular track layout/surface chosen for the test, it may not be the general solution to the question: 'will a lower capacity battery improve my lap times?'.
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Just a couple of other options nobody else has mentioned.
First one is to find the old radios you used to use. In the uk at least, you can find old Futaba and Acoms gear for under £20. I still use my 27MHz stuff. Until recently I even raced with it, so if you like the old stuff, there's no reason not to use it.
I say until recently because this brings me to the other option. Occasionally my 27MHz radio would glitch during a race and send my car off the track. I wanted to move to 2.4GHz for racing but like you I don't get on with steerwheel controllers, and like some others, I find the modern 2.4GHz stick radios hideously ugly.
So what I did was buy a cheap 2.4GHz wheel set, take out its internals and put them in one of my old 27MHz handsets - an acoms techniplus.
I have wired it up so that everything works as it should, including the original on-off switch, the channel reverse switches, even the battery level dial (I had to adjust the current flowing to it because the new electronics are only 6 volts vs 12 volts of the original). Of course there is no use for the crystal socket with the new internals so this is now the bind button, but it has a crystal holder over the button so it looks like a 27MHz controller still (apart from the aerial!)
It has all of the advantages of the modern 2.4GHz systems but the look and feel of a vintage one. So anyone who misses the look of their old transmitters, there's nothing stopping you from modernising them! (and if you don't want to modify your prized possessions from your childhood, there are plenty of old ones on ebay - I've seen people sell dozens of them in a single lot)
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My ebay item from 'Liverpool' (for which I was charged 20% by ebay) arrived today.
There are 2 labels, one pasted directly on top of the other. The one underneath is a Chinese label with my address (and phone number!) with a few bar codes on (could these conceivably contain some information on vat?) and the label on top is a royal mail postage label with a return address of Manchester and more bar codes.
So it seems like it did come from China, even though the ebay listing had a uk item location.
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3 hours ago, NulnOilTycoon said:
I guess another question would be why on Earth can't you get m3 stainless steel, titanium, etc. tapping screws with hex fittings? Surely someone makes them?
Back when I used to race my top force (early 2000's) I bought a titanium screw set for it from some place in Hong Kong like rc mart or Stella models, and it included all the correct tapping screws with button heads, except with hex sockets - a really nice set and they weren't even that expensive, can't remember the brand, if any. I just had a look but can't find them anywhere now.
ta01 and ta02 front upright
in General discussions
Posted
You'll need different bearings and different king pins. You won't need longer shafts though. The 02 has the longer shafts already. 01 shafts are shorter, as are the bottom arms.
The 02 with 01 uprights is the configuration for the ta02w