rich_f
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Posts posted by rich_f
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On 12/12/2020 at 8:35 AM, Carmine A said:
Is it just coincidence, or is the original Centre Section a TA-01?
The FF01 shares many parts with the TA-02, including the centre chassis section. The TA-01 centre section is longer and would make the FF01 wheelbase too long for regular touring car bodies (in long configuration anyway, not sure what the wheelbase would be it the FF01 rear section was set to short in conjunction with the TA-01 chassis centre section).
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I bought a set of diamond burrs for my rotary tool and one of them is a 6mm diameter disc on the end of the 3mm shaft, and is about 1mm thick, so you might be able to get something like that in to cut a slot without damaging the plastic.
If you choose the drilling route, you don't need a milling cutter, a round burr will do to create a dip in the centre of the remaining stud. You can then drill without it wandering.
Finally, have you thought of getting something like a chisel (or on this scale it might need to be the end of a broken drill - something hard that will dig into the metal) and unscrew it by tapping the stud around by its edge? This works on larger screws - not sure how successful it will be on something this small but it might be worth a try.
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M chassis wheels are 1.6 inches in diameter, which makes them a scale size of 16 inches. This is way bigger than what was on the real car so let's face it - it's never going to look exactly right.
Just take a look at the scale model photo posted above (castrol one) - those wheels look tiny in comparison to rc wheels. To get that look, you'd need the body to be big enough to fit on a full-size touring chassis and use m-chassis size wheels, but with even bigger tyre sidewalls than 60d. Something like the original escort cosworth tiger stripe version, which came with small wheels and high-sidewall tyres.
So tamiya used to try to make wheels scale sized (for cars where the 'standard' size wasn't right), but they soon gave up.
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I haven't researched, but I imagine those scale dynamics wheels are for 'full-size' touring car chassis used in drifting. The new tamiya escort is on the m chassis and uses m chassis sized wheels and more importantly, tyres.
Full-size touring wheels and tyres on this would look too big, even these with the fake sidewall, since the outer diameter is still full-size.
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I have a rear suspension tower that needs similar treatment, but it's the upper arm mounting hole that has failed. I think I'll make a similar design to yours but with an extra piece that comes down to reinforce the upper arm mount holes.
Do you just use an abrasive disc on your dremmel to cut your cf plate?
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Part number 53619 is a set of 4 and is £27 including uk delivery on ebay. So still not cheap.
They come as standard on a lot of older touring chassis - if you really want the plastic ones and don't want to pay full price you could buy a second-hand older car and swap the pogo sticks over and re-sell it. Seems like a lot of work though, and no guarantee you'll get the extension parts included.
They are good quality though and I've never had any leaking problems with them over the years. I can't vouch for yeah racing or G made, as I've never used them. The one set of cheap aluminium shocks I ever bought (gpm) started leaking immediately.
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1 hour ago, Mad Ax said:
My fear here is that Tamiya will do what they often do when the put a motorsport body on an existing chassis - cheap out with the dimensions and wheels. OK, so the Escort often wore Minilite wheels, but they were a much wider offset than those used on Mini rally cars of the era. In the photo above, the rear wheels are wider than the fronts. Mini Cooper wheels under an Escort body will look weedy.
The arches on the photo are properly fat - not sure what they are but they look bigger than Monte arches. They'll want a very deep dish wheel to fit them properly. But if Tamiya scale the body to fit over Cooper Minilites then you'll never get a deep dish wheel over them, they'll poke out too far.
I seriously hope Tamiya don't go down this route, but they have precedent. The boxart for the Coppermix Silvia shows a properly deep set of staggered Rays wheels, but what they included in the box was a puny 5-spoke that looks like it came OEM on a mid-spec Polo. The problem was, the body was scaled to fit those wheels. To get the proper deep wheels under it you had to get creative with wheel hexes and suspension setup, which was a compromise if you wanted to go drifting. IMO the Tamiya S15 Silvia body is one of the best they've made, until you try to squeeze some decent wheels under it.
Tamiya stopped doing bespoke scale rc models decades ago. Every tamiya rc replica of a real car since they stopped using the polystyrene bodies of their static kits has been a compromise of some sort, in order to fit the standardised wheel and chassis size so that the people who buy them don't have to worry about getting yet another tyre size.
Tamiya doesn't make perfect replica scale rc cars - they make something as close as they can get while staying within standardised constraints: wheelbase, track width, wheel diameter, tyre width. They do a pretty good job too, most of the time, and it means that they can reuse existing chassis and parts primarily to save money for themselves (ultimately resulting in cheaper cars for us to buy), but also it makes rc more inviting to the average person, since they don't need to buy different parts for different cars - for example, all m-chassis wheels are the same size and width, meaning buying new tyres is easy. They used to do wide rear tyres for a few cars and look how they caught on. Yes they look better but these aren't supposed to be static models. (even though all of mine are these days 😁 )
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@Nicadraus Is that rear anti-roll bar an official ff01 hop up or is it off of another car? And do those grub screws prevent the bar from rotating?
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8 hours ago, Juhunio said:
Q1: what's the difference between 53205 and 53597? My initial thought was that 53597 was just an updated version of 53205 (both called Universals), but 53205 look more like Double Cardan joints than Universals. They certainly look more...permanent, in terms of their fixings
Sven probably gave you as much information as you need, but what he didn't mention was that the double Cardans 42300 are the only constant velocity drives (CVDs*) out of those examples. This means that the rotational speed at the output (wheel end) is exactly the same as that at the input (diff end), no matter what angle they are bent through. With universal joints (single Cardan joints), the output speed is sinusoidal with respect to a constant input speed, with an amplitude proportional to the bend amount. This is a cause of noise, vibration and chatter and is one reason why double Cardans are better.
The universal joints 53205 are indeed only single Cardan joints.
*The term CVD is, unfortunately, misused in the rc world and most times I see it mentioned are with reference to rebuildable universals. Here I use it in the correct sense.
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8 hours ago, Nicadraus said:
It is impossible to tune an on-road car, rally car or racing buggies without turnbuckles. These are not just bling or unnecessary items for the car. They are very important for steering and upper suspension arms as well as stabilizers and push rods for IFS (Inboard Front Suspension). From toe in/out, front camber and rear camber in the case of TRF420 and the likes.
I think you are confusing the term 'turnbuckle' to mean 'any adjustable-length connector'.
It most certainly is not impossible to tune a car's suspension and steering without them. Regular threaded rods with ball ends will do just fine, but as already said many times, they are slightly more difficult to adjust (need to pop the ball connector off) and can lead to prematurely wearing out the ball connector if done often enough.
So in short, turnbuckles are not necessary, but if you want to adjust your suspension geometry, then either regular threaded rods (same thread direction at each end) or turnbuckles (different thread direction at each end - which allows the buckle to be turned, hence the name...) are.
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Turnbuckles have a right-handed thread at one end and left-handed thread at the other. This allows adjustment without unpopping your ball ends or unscrewing anything.
They don't necessarily have a 'nut' - they can be round shafts with a hole in which you can turn with anything that will fit in it, or they can just be knurled or have a hexagonal cross section so can easily be gripped.
If you have regular threaded rods with ball ends, turnbuckles aren't really necessary. You can adjust them easily enough by popping a ball off. I've raced rc cars for ages and never used them.
If you have fixed-length arms then, well at least you know they will be equal each side 😊
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On 10/19/2020 at 8:48 PM, Carmine A said:
I'm going to have to look into those... Not that I'm Racing, but I like the best performance I can get. Hopefully there's a U.S. seller...
If you're thinking softer compounds = better performance, I'd be very careful. Soft racing tyres are very sensitive to temperature and can easily overheat after a couple of minutes of running and degrade performance, and useful lifetime.
You're in Arizona? With air temperatures there currently in the high 20s/30s and full sunshine, you're going to want the hardest compounds (higher numbers). Last summer (or was it 2018...) was a scorcher here in England (that means air temperatures in the 30s) and I was using 36s and 40s at the track.
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For areas where there isn't enough meat left for those bigger inserts, I wonder if some M3 helicoils would work. According to the ebay ad below, they only require a 3.1mm drill hole.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122037614593
Anyone tried these?
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Hmm - so I might have to buy the rest of your rear kit too!
Or I could try making a brace out of some frp plate I have here to go over the existing rear shock tower, rather than replace it entirely. I'll have to use longer screws and remove some plastic from the upper arms to about for the extra thickness, or swap them for ball ends.
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I've just started cleaning up an ff01 I got in a job lot and it has a broken rear shock tower, where the top arm attaches, so I'm going to need something to either fix it or replace it with.
How much did the rear shock mount cost from fibre-lyte and can anyone order it from them now? I notice they don't have any ff01 parts listed on their website.
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Yes that would do nicely, but there never seems to be any information on the width and wheelbase of these truck shells, so I can never know if it will fit the chassis. Or if it does say the wheelbase, it's well over 239mm so wouldn't fit even if I flip the rear arms.
It looks like I'll need to do some research to find out the measurements of the chassis that the Bigfoot is supposed to go on. Even then though, that won't tell me the actual shell width and wheelbase as monster usual chassis wheelbase is usually longer than the body...
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5 hours ago, Wooders28 said:
Can't help but think that's got the ,Fall Guy ,written all.over it...🤔
This has a clod body
https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=71036&id=15650
That is exactly the kind of look I was thinking of. Now, clod bodies are quite pricey and I don't know if they have the same track width and wheelbase of the ta-01.
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I quite like the look of the big tyres on the escort wheels, plus I like the idea of having another car that will work off road - I have a top force but the rest of my collection is on-road.
I think an escort with these tyres wouldn't look right, hence the idea of using a truck body. Just need to find one that will fit, and not break the bank.
I've had a look at some truck shells and so far I've only seen ones with very long wheelbases, and are probably wider than the standard ta-01 escort track width.
Here's a picture of the car. The wheels really are a good fit for brat tyres.
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I have just finished rebuilding a TA-01 tiger stripe escort that I got it a job lot but it came with no body and no tyres.
Also in the job lot was a set of subaru brat tyres, which, wouldn't you know, are an almost perfect fit for the slightly-smaller-than-usual touring and rally car wheels that come with the tiger stripe escort.
Now I'm wondering what body I could put on this rally car chassis with beefy-looking brat tyres? I'm thinking some kind of truck but I hate the look of modern trucks and the older looking ta02 truck bodies, which are more to my taste, are rare and expensive.
The tyres for these tiger stripe wheels are super rare so I imagine that there are loads of these wheels out there with no hope of getting the original tyres for them.
Has anyone else used brat tyres on escort tiger stripe wheels on the TA-01 and what body did you use?
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I sit mine on old tyres - they are matt black so unobtrusive, and would otherwise have gone into landfill.
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You can easily make your own tie rods of any length with some plain M4 threaded bar from the hardware store.
All you need is a hacksaw and a file to clean up the cut ends.
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17 hours ago, TrueBlue said:
Will it work OK for stickers that have already been applied, or will it not have any effect on the adhesive?
You mean for stickers that are already stuck to the body? No - this won't have any effect as the soap solution needs so come between the body and the adhesive.
Even if there is a gap and it partiall wicks under, if most of the sticker is stuck down, it won't get under it and enable it to slide.
For this method to work, the soap solution needs to coat the entire sticky surface of the sticker before it touches the body. Then when you apply pressure to stick the sticker down, and squeegee the solution out, the adhesive comes into contact with the body and becomes permanently stuck (well, as permanent as stickers can be, at least).
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1 hour ago, TrueBlue said:
Yeah, definitely beginning to wish I'd gone with Bright Silver, but the website I bought all the paints and body shell from was out of stock of Bright Silver, so I went for the next in line... normal Tamiya silver.
What else went wrong? Well, after the unfortunate mess of the silver paint, I applied the decals. The front window decal has multiple creases in it where I was (trying to) carefully apply it to the body. One window sticker ended up with little lumps under it, even though I'm sure it was free of dirt and dust. And the other side window has a large crease in it because I didn't lay the sticker flat and even. And one of the Rustler 4x4 decals tore when i tried to remove it from the sheet.
Other than that... all peachy, lol.
Regarding stickering, try spraying the body with very dilute washing-up liquid solution on the area the sticker is to be applied (or simply dip the sticker in a small bath of the solution). The sticker floats on the layer of soap solution so you can position it while avoiding creases. Then once you're happy with the position, squeeze out the soap solution from the middle outwards.
I did this on the last body I did, after only ever applying then dry, and it was so much easier to get good results. Applying heat using a hair drier also helps with creases on curved areas.
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2 hours ago, Blissard said:
I think you have to shrink the Rough Rider to 1/20 to replicate that photo
Biggest Tamiya pickup I have is Hilux. All Blackfoots, F350s, and Clod bodies are miniscule compared to Hilux.
The original photo showing the real rough rider 'fitting in the bed' of the truck actuall shows it not fitting in very well at all - the front wheels are resting on the cab or thereabouts and the rear wheels overhang the tailgate! I'm sure you could replicate something similar to that with your hilux (which is in all likelihood smaller than the truck in the photo) without the need to reduce the size of your rough rider by a factor of 2...
wtcc5's FF-01 addiction
in The Builds
Posted
Like some other members here, I have had some success making my own frp reinforcing plates as I too have the problem of splitting plastic on one of my FF01s, albeit on the rear (see attached image)