rich_f
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Posts posted by rich_f
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I think it's a typo - it's $170 when I looked just now on rc mart
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I notice you've not painted the areas where the lights are - have you found some light buckets to fit the calibra body?
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The issue is neither the battery (you've said it works in reverse just fine), nor the 27MHz radio (I, and plenty of other people, used to race with the same radio and mechanical speed controller, and I still use 27MHz to race, albeit with an ESC). The problem is with the mechanical speed controller.
As others have said, the contacts should first be cleaned (circled in red in the picture) and the connecting rod should be put into the hole on the servo arm that makes it such that when the throttle stick is at its maximum, the wiper arm does not go beyond the final metal contact, which will cause it to cut out.
Moving the connecting rod one hole closer to the servo screw hole (you should really have a screw in that hole) so that the distance from the pivot point to the hole is the same on both the servo and the speed controller is the same might do it.
You also might be suffering from too little spring pressure pressing the contacts together. This can happen if the nut on the top comes loose, or if the spring becomes a bit lax with age. It can be fixed by stripping it down, re-bending it and rebuilding.
In summary, I don't think you need to buy anything new to get it to work properly - it just needs servicing and properly setting up.
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34 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:
I have in my head, they're a higher tensile strength? Standard screws 8.8, hex 10.9?
You can get many strength grades of [external] hex-head bolts (including the lower 5.6 grade), so I'd be very surprised if all hex socket head 3mm screws were high-grade. (noting that cheap ikea hardware, which is almost certainly not any particularly high grade, is also hex-socket headed...)
5 minutes ago, Saito2 said:I'm sure hexes are better and I'm just being stubborn and dumb
Hex heads certainly are better in terms of how much torque you can successfully apply - you don't get JIS- or Philips-headed bolts holding an engine's cylinder head down, for example. On an rc car pretty much any head type will do as the torques required are much lower.
I do get that they are less easy to damage with clumsy use of the wrong screwdriver or by heavy-handedness, so are less likely to be a problem to carpet tracks, but I feel like this is a user-generated problem and not inherent to the head type.
So let's all agree that any head type is better than slotted screws and get back on topic!
Regarding those 'doors', they do indeed look like a transverse battery option. Maybe it will be part of a quick-release battery holder they are bound to release as a hop up... We might find out when the manual is released.
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26 minutes ago, BuggyGuy said:
It's the first hopup I buy for any Tamiya, I'm really not a fan of self tappers and prefer M3 hardware. I've never had a problem using M3 machine screws with the kits I've had.
I was talking about the head design (which is the aspect that has been highlighted about the screws in this car) rather than the thread form. I personally wouldn't change to a machine threaded screw for a hole designed for a self-tapping screw of the same nominal outer diameter, but that's another discussion for another time.
I didn't consider that these hex-headed screws might also be machine-threaded - maybe the fibre-reinforced plastic used in this model is more suited to machine threads than the plastics used in models utilising self-tapping screws, and has the holes drilled to the correct diameter to accept them.
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Can someone please explain why the presence of hex socket-headed screws is such a desirable aspect? I've seen it mentioned multiple times now about this car.
I get that hex-socket screws are generally less likely to cam out and strip the heads, but at the torque necessary to drive them into plastic, surely this advantage is negated? I mean, I've never stripped the head of a JIS headed screw in an rc car as the torque required to screw it into plastic isn't enough to cause cam-out.
So is it just the way they look? (they do look better in my opinion)
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3 hours ago, Tizer said:
Would be cool to do a printed photo yes
Now I have my new photobooth I can get really nice pictures of my cars.
Really nice photos. Can I make a suggestion though? For the close-ups of individual areas, the variation in focus works really well, drawing your eye to a particular part of the photo, but for the overview shot at the bottom, it might be good to have the whole chassis in focus rather that just the front end.
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16 hours ago, Sir Crashalot said:
Aren't they all touring cars?
No - there are plenty of rally cars, some trucks and even a formula E car. So the TA, B, C series certainly isn't limited to touring cars.
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On 6/21/2021 at 1:34 PM, matisse said:
what if.....DT are 2wd, so they reversed it for 4wd?
18 hours ago, Blista said:Is it possible that Tamiya are starting to name their chassis with a T prefix for visible Tamiya name branding? So instead of DT they've switched it to TD?
I always thought the T in DT meant, 'Two' as in Two wheel drive (and not Tamiya) and the F in DF is 'Four', as in Four wheel drive, and the D was for dirt.
So for me the most logical 'meaning' of the name is a progression of the TA, TB, TC series of chassis names. The lack of the '0' is still a mystery though.
Having said that, the first thing I thought of when I saw TD was thunder dragon...
Also I don't know much about the avante but this new car looks very similar, and my guess would be an updated version of that car.
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A long time ago on some very sloppy steering links on my ta02 that I raced, I remember putting a sheet of very thin plastic (like shopping bag thin) between the ball and cup then popping it together so the sheet goes inside the cup and fills the gap. Worked for me, and might be a solution to your 'unusable' ones.
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16 hours ago, lsear2905 said:
FWIW, I never said "better," I said "more accurate and detailed than the RC equivalent." The point I was making was an objective one without offering my opinion either way.
I'm aware you didn't say the word, but I think you missed my point, which was that for someone to prefer one thing over another, they must perceive the first as better (in some way) than the second.
So for you, 'more accurate and detailed than the RC equivalent' might be the better choice compared to someone else who values the size of an RC model over a 1/24th one, for example. For them, the larger size makes it a better choice than the smaller, but more detailed models.
What I'm trying to say (as have others in this thread) is that everyone's perception of what is better for them is not necessarily the same as everyone else's.
So if someone's version of better is different to someone else's, asking questions like 'why don't you like this objective characteristic instead of this other objective characteristic' - the answer is always: because in their opinion, the other objective characteristic is perceived to be better!(hence everyone's version of better is different)
Same goes for long body posts. I have long body posts on some of my cars because they are better than short ones at protecting the body when it rolls during a race on tarmac, and they also make it a little more likely that it will land back on its wheels after a roll. As for the look, you don't really notice them when the car is moving quickly around a track. Other people are bound to have other reasons for having them.
In fact the same goes for all of these 'vents' - people have their own reasons for liking what they like and we'll never understand them all - unless they tell us in this thread 😊
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I think what some people don't get is that there's more than one way to enjoy model cars - and just because one person enjoys them by running them, they can't understand how someone else can possibly get enjoyment out of them by not running them.
16 hours ago, lsear2905 said:I think this is why I don't understand the concept of a "shelf queen." Static models made by Tamiya, Aoshima, etc are so much more accurate and detailed than the RC equivalent, I don't get why you'd prefer to have something that's more expensive and complicated, but with less detail.
A few things to say about this: firstly, this is no different than saying "tamiya makes brushless motors that are so much faster, more efficient, more reliable than brushed motors - I don't get why you'd prefer to use brushed motors that require more maintenance, are slower, and yet waste more power as heat." - 'Better' is a subjective term; for some people, less detailed is better. For some, less complicated is better. For some, familiar is better.
Secondly, building a typical tamiya rc car to a standard that looks good is a lot easier than doing the same with one of their 1/24th plastic models; getting a perfect paint job on a tamiya rc is as easy as caking the paint onto the inside of the shell and then peeling back the protective film, and the details are all stickers - getting the same finish on a plastic model requires much more skill and patience, and I imagine this puts a lot of people off.
Finally, 1/10th rc models are a lot bigger than 1/24th ones, and while the smaller ones are indeed more detailed out of the box, at the distance they are normally viewed at (up on a shelf at the edge of a room) you are hard pressed to see those details, and Tamiya touring car rc models are pretty darn good in terms of detail, even before adding extra details as one can (check out anything by Truck Norris), meaning that they can look just as good as plastic models but without the need to get up close.
Something that sets them aside from their surely static cousins is that they sit atop an actual working chassis, with real suspension and drivetrain that, if you wanted, you could power up and drive around. The mere knowledge of this fact adds a little something extra I think. It's also something else one can display.
Personally I collect both plastic models and rc models to go on display, plus I have others that I run (race, though not often these days).
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On 6/3/2021 at 5:24 PM, futureworks said:
By only shipping above the £135 threshold, the vat and customs get applied at entry into the uk
Presumably this means that the 19% VAT shown included in the prices on the website is removed at checkout?
I just did a quick check by putting something in my basket and setting the UK for the shipping quote, but it didn't take the 19% off at that point.
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6 hours ago, finder75 said:
Won't lie, I'm stunned neither original nor Evo re-re came with the alloy motor mount as standard , especially for the price Oo
Yes, me too - from the God-like status the original TF Evolution seems to have, I was surprised to find out recently that it, too, didn't come with the aluminium motor mount.
And I still find comments saying that this new Evo is somehow inferior, when in fact, from what I can tell, it is - aside from the lack of titanium screws - equal or better than the original.
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You'll not find a chart to cover all cars because the final drive [gearbox] ratio doesn't consider the wheel diameter, which could be one of several sizes, so a motor/final drive ratio that works for an m chassis would not work for a touring car or buggy, for example.
As has already been said, the manuals for individual cars or even the manual for hop-up motor mounts will tell you what is recommended on a per-chassis basis.
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2 hours ago, Tizer said:
More than happy to borrow it to someone or scan it if a replica can be made
It would also help me make extras for runner cars.
If you're scanning the carbon parts, can you also scan the fibreglass parts from the HPI tub chassis? I have the tub (came in a job lot I bought years ago) but not the 2 frp parts that make up the top deck and battery holder. I have a sheet of black frp and I'd love to get it restored so I can make it into a full chassis again.
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Easy - the most downforce has to be the Suzuki Escudo Pike's Peak. And although it looks like it might be fictional, it's not.
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19 hours ago, wtcc5 said:
And unfortunately that is the only one I know of now.
And the ta02 high speed gear set (47393), so that's two now 😁
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If the specs listed on the rcmart page are anything to go by, the only major difference is that there's no titanium screws. But you do get carbon fibre damper mounts which the original didn't have. And no blister packs - well, better to have less plastic packaging, right?
According to rcmart, it comes with the one-way and the aluminium diffs.
Too bad it doesn't come with an aluminium motor mount, but the original didn't either, much to my surprise when I found out just now.
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5 hours ago, merlinh said:
does the 53217 come with the longer diff cup
Both sets come as pairs, i.e., one 'short' and one 'long' (in reality they are both the same size, it's just that one has a pin pressed into it and the other has a hole for the pin to slide into.
The 53217 set has shorter splined sections than the 53218 set as 53218 is for the gear diff, which has deeper splined holes than the ball diff.
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On 4/14/2021 at 9:17 PM, merlinh said:
does anyone know the part number for the ta02 rear diff cups i can only find the short side
53217 for ball diff
53218 for gear diff
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One reason I can think of is that aluminium tape has no elasticity, meaning when you stick it to uneven surfaces with complicated curves (like the inside of a car body) it conforms to the shape and doesn't try to return to its previous shape, meaning it stays stuck.
Also, if you don't quite stick it right into a sharp corner, you can press it in afterwardstand it will stretch, and the lack of elasticity means it doesn't eventually pop back out. This may only be possible with non-fibre reinforced versions, however, as the fibres may resist stretching.
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1 hour ago, Project GT said:
It does seem odd to me that the TT02 chassis is not permitted given the TT01 is not manufactured anymore.
The TT-01 is manufactured still, under the 'E' variant.
The point of this series is that it is supposed to be for 'iconic' (read 'old') cars, so there's no TA-05, 6, 7, etc., no FF-03, 4, no TT-02, no M-05, 6, 7, 8, and so on for the other chassis types.
I use an AMBrc personal transponder that I've had since the early 2000's and works with the timing gear they use at iconic races. I'm not sure what else is available these days.
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6 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:
You'll need full racing tyres. I woukd suggest getting the Sweep BRCA 34 tyres and run them on the front. Get hold of some 32 or 28 of some brand for the rear. Make sure they are for asphaly not carpet. The TT01E is really wayward at the back and the best way to tame it is to stagger the tyres.
This is one of the things I don't like about the iconic cup vs. the original eurocup - unlimited tyre choice just prices me out of the game. Without a selection of tyre compounds for the often changing conditions throughout the day, your chances of keeping up with the leaders are reduced.
Eurocup stock class, by contrast, was kit tyres only.
TA-02 Calibra
in The Builds
Posted
Not sure clearcoat will hide brush lines unless it's quite thick, which gives it a glassy, unrealistic look.
If the paint is the right consistency, you can use a wide soft brush and achieve a smooth finish.
Humbrol enamel paints were just the right consistency straight from the can, but tamiya acrylics work better thinned, or better still, thinned then sprayed through an airbrush.
I've not used tamiya enamel paints but I imagine they are easier to brush than their acrylics.