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About BalmyBaldwin

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  1. Newbury's in Berkshire.... I thought we were talking about a surrey Meet?
  2. Petrolhead, Where is the venue, and what date? (Need to have a tleast 2 weeks to get the damage sorted on my avante)
  3. Thanks for the help guys, Tcut the back panel and what do you know? now I have a matching boot(trunk) lid (and a very sore arm[]). Real shame to see this car go it really is great fun to drive & very predictable in the corners... If anyone is interested I've put it up for sale for £1450 (I'll make that £1350 for a TC member) 94Kmiles, Nreg 1.8Rsi full electrics. Recent Rear & Middle Exhaust (front section may need changing soon) & recent tyres & cambelt change. FSH, MOT til May 05 Tax til end 07/05 generally good condition throughout. If you are interested email me through the club & I'll send some pics
  4. I've got an ageing Clio RSI, which I am about to sell. The boot panel is a slightly darker shade of red from the rest of the car... I've tried a coloured Tcut but it hasn't made a lot of difference. Anyone got any ideas of how to get the boot to match the rest of the car (I know it can be done, because the guy who sold it to me made it look the right colour when I bought it.)
  5. Boil the wheels... This should work but don't over do it or you'll get a ruined kitchen pan. Nail varnish remover works well, but can attack the plastic (test first)
  6. If you use hot soapy water you should be able to soak them, and then slide them off on to wax paper and then you should be able to re-use them. The other alternative is NetSmith's very good re-pro decals. To get rid of the rough surface on the fenders, sand with finer paper - geting finer as you go, and finish of with some wet & dry and then perhaps a brass polish... This should get a reasonable finish for painting. You could also paint over the offending area and then sand down the painted surface until you get the smoothness desired to take the final coat.
  7. Perhap's it's because those whit wheels are for an Avante 2001? If you want a new set of the original yellows for that car I'll swap you!
  8. Dynatech 02H - In today's standards probably not the fastest motor around, but with 2 armatures to choose from, cooling fan, finned case etc.. It looks as fast as it goes...
  9. Well I've only got one front wheeled drive car - the FF02... I love this car, it drives beautifully, and when you've got the hang of driving FWD the cornering is fantastic. The only problem I have with the car is that it is a little "light Weight" I know this is supposed to be an advantage, but sometimes I get the impression that it isn't fully glued to the ground. Incidentally, I have found the car to be incredibly reliable, and at Snetterton last year I ran about 10 batteries through it continuously (It was the only car of mine that was still working!) with no problems developing at all (apart from a big hole in the body work caused by crashing into a ramp)
  10. This is going in a Mustang Shell, I'd also thought about the "police stop sign" for the last channel... It's just taking me ages to get all the wiring sorted (mainly because I have a house to do up as well). My main problem is that this thing is going to weigh a ton... might need to think about running 2x7.2V batteries to allow it to run for more than 5 mins as well... Will post pictures when I'm done
  11. Looks like the guys at work won't let me use the carpark (apparently the carpark is used at weekends for park & ride). Any new ideas for a venue?
  12. You think you are addicted... I've just got hold of a 9 Channel 40mhz radio so that I can: Switch on/off dipped beam lights, [1 channel] Flash High beam & Switch between dipped and high beam, [1 channel] Brake lights [done through ESC] Turn on Front & Rear Fogs [1 channel] Indicate Left/Right [left/right on left hand throttle stick] Switch on/off Flashing Blue lights in headlights (Decided against roof cluster)[1 channel] Switch on/off Siren [1 channel] and 2 channels to drive the car Not sure what to do with the last channel... any ideas?
  13. Yep, used Mulliput. It was great for getting the reflectors to fit, basically masked the inside of the lights and then pushed the putty into the masking and let it set, then drilled 3 holes in each reflector to fit the LEDs, and then widened the front end with a dremel tool to make a more conical shape. This gets the multi-spot effect that you see on most new 1:1 cars. Looks good, just need to paint the rest of the shell now. (Must remember not to paint the light area) For lenses I just use the un-painted Lexan. That Bathroom Silicon sounds good I might have a go at that with an old shell.
  14. Oh yeah if you haven't yet, put bearings in the car this will make a big difference.
  15. You need to be careful with your gearing... At the moment how hot does your motor get towards the end of a run? If you can keep your finger on it for more than 5 seconds with out shouting "Oh **** that's hot!" then try going for a pinion 1 or 2 teeth bigger. If the motor is still not getting really hot go up another step. Bigger pinion will mean a higher top speed but lower acceleration. Smaller spur means the same. Bear in mind that if the motor gets too hot you may damage it or at worst melt the chassis. This decision also depends on where you drive. There is no point in having a huge top speed if none of the straights are long enough to allow you to get there. As a general rule of thumb, I aim to hit top speed about 1/2 to 3/4 way down the main straight. This way the car is not suffering from low acceleration on the track and will do the best lap times.
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