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terry.sc

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About terry.sc

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  • Birthday 01/31/1965

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    terry.sc@ntlworld.com
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    http://www.thetechshed.co.uk
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    Stockport, UK

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  1. You can buy the touring car size rally blocks, and cut the tread and reglue them, but Tamiya have done the work for you by making rally tyres in mini size for the M05RA, part number is 51427. If you really want the look of touring car rally blocks then Corsair Racing makes mini size rally blocks identical to cut down touring tyres here.
  2. Which makes all this discussion comparing motors irrelevant. You will only notice the difference between motors of the same wind against a stopwatch or lap counter, you won't notice much difference, if any, if you are just bashing. If you want more speed then just go for a lower wind. The 20 turn HPI Saturns are good, although obviously the greater speed means less runtime and it wears out faster, and the gear ratio needs to be adjusted correctly to get the best out of them. You don't want to run them on more than 7.2v. if anything the thick wires means the motor runs hotter, but the wire are cooler as they have a lower resistance.When racing you do everything to get every single hundredth of a second off your laptime, so you use the highest spec ESC you can, Deans/Powerpole/Traxxas/Corally battery connectors instead of the Tamiyas to cut down on resistance, and thick wires directly soldered between motor and ESC again to keep resistance to a minimum, which means the motor gets a few extra hundredths of a volt to get a fraction more speed as hundredths of a second can make a difference on the racetrack.
  3. For a brushless system for crawlers you must use a sensored system, the cheap sensorless systems like the Integy just can't hill hold by design, there's nothing they can do that will hold the truck due to the small magnets in the motor. You can get an amazing improvement in performance by using an outrunner brushless motor instead, such as the Holmes Hobbies Revolver. The Tekin or Novak with a good high turn motor will hold as firm as you can get with better low speed control than any brushless system, it's why very few competition crawlers use brushless.
  4. It depends on the software you are using to edit the pictures. Size isn't too important as the server will resize the pictures to 1024 pixels wide, although setting them at that will speed up the upload. To get the server to recognise them though they must be in the correct format. The image must be a standard jpeg, and the images name must end with the extension .jpg for it to be recognised. Also there have been glitches in the past that while preventing you loading the image you want when setting up the page, later you can edit the showroom page and the images which failed earlier will then happily replace the first ones, so you could try replacing the images.
  5. GB-03 is the TamtechGear Hotshot in 1/16th scale. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/car.asp?id=823 The 1/10th Hotshot doesn't have a chassis number, they pre-date that by 5 years. The chassis type is just Hotshot. No one does a titanium screw set for the Hotshot, if you want any hop ups for it you'll have to find original vintage parts. You will have to buy the screws individually.
  6. As aid above, it means any motor with higher turns. Although I would suggest you look at a Tekin FX-R instead. Better performance, half the size, fully programmable and about the same price. The only advantage the Novak has is a slightly better BEC, but still not good enough for a decent high power servo.
  7. The answer is neither and both. The motors are built to the same spec with the same armature wind, same magnet size, same brush spec. The best Mabuchi will beat the worst Johnson, and the best Johnson will beat the best Mabuchi. The big difference over normal racing motors is that as they are mass produced there is a wide variation in performance between them, those who are really serious about spec class racing with 27 turn closed can motors will buy 10-20 motors, test each one then race with the best. The one that revs the fastest is not necessarily the best as that could also mean that's the one with the weakest magnets. How to get the best performance out of 540 motors, either Mabuchi or Johnson: 1) Buy lots of them, test them and pick the best. 2) Get a good quality ESC. Running a no limit ESC like the Tekin FX Pro will make any 540 fly compared with the basic Tamiya ESC. 3) Cheat by getting lower turn versions, like the 4 slot motor, HPI Saturn 20T, HPI Firebolt 15T r any of the other variations that look just like a standard 540, or retiming a standard motor. If you really want to stick with a 27 turn 540 then you will have to look for an old Johnson motor that has 62200 printed on it. You won't find them in the shops though, Johnson made them in the 90s and the modern versions aren't as fast. Good luck on finding a brand new 10+ years old motor. For running in, the best treatment is to first bed in the brushes by water dipping, then polish and lubricate the bushings. Water dip a new motor running on 7.2v for between 15-20 seconds, any longer won't make much difference. Now flush the water out by spraying motor cleaner or Isopropyl Alcohol spray into the can. Leave to dry for 20-30 minutes then start on the bushings. You just need to take off any high spots in the bushings, so use toothpaste as a grinding paste, it's light enough to not take much off the bushings. Push toothpaste between the bushings and shaft, then run on 3 or 4 cells for 5 minutes. Flush the toothpaste out with the cleaner again. Now lubricate the bushings with a proper bushing oil designed for the job, such as Muchmore CHE-SM Spin Lube for bushings. Keep on lubricating the bushings with the bushing lube regularly, letting them dry out will cause excess wear to the bushings.
  8. Oven cleaner. Make sure the oven cleaner is caustic, the 'safe' cleaners don't have the required ingredients in them that attack the paint, look for Oven Pride. Faster than brake fluid as well.
  9. The Lazer Alpha was used for a range of saloon and rally bodies, although not many were seen outside Japan. A search of the showrooms for lazer alpha throws up a few examples: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...856&id=5927 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...255&id=8468 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...38&id=11214
  10. Yep, on the PMMC link posted above, unfortunately Infoseek pulled their free personal web hosting last October. You can make out what you would need to do from the magazine article pictures http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/5844/frog21fi9.jpg http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5012/frog22fo2.jpg To copy it depends on how good your machining skills are. Take one set of Frog chassis parts, and one TA04 rear gearbox, belt drive, front suspension wishbones and uprights, and some F201 suspension parts to mount the front shocks inboard. Everything else is custom made, lower chassis, front gearbox case, front wheel adapters, even the Frog style rear arms are custom parts. Of course something similar could be built with hand tools, just not to the same level of quality. I know Grahoo knows the person who built it.
  11. If anyone asks for value, the only way of getting a current market value is to look on ebay, although you've unlikely to find this anywhere. I could tell you what I would pay for it, but that doesn't necessarily mean others will value it the same. The only way to work out what it's actually worth is to put it on ebay.
  12. Cheap/easy way to get the steering to work? Easy, slow down when cornering. It's deliberately designed like that so when you try steering at speed it doesn't fall over. When you try steering you should notice the wheels steer but the tyres don't grip enough to actually steer. Grippier tyres will give you more steering, but then you will need to lock up the servo saver and fit a large Kinbrough servo saver on the servo.
  13. All are good. Tamiya don't seem to have any trouble using Tech Racing parts, the TRF415 was a rebadged MY02 and a lot of Tamiyas alloy parts come from Tech.
  14. Mine get a light running http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...9381&id=280 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...9380&id=280 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...6&sid=21287 The Northwest Nutters know how to treat vintage r/cs.
  15. I agree, it's annoying although more for the reasons mike_o gave earlier. Don't see why we can't have it turned off, but as it's only an on/off setting although if we do get lots of shouting in the titles it might have to be turned on again (highly unlikely though!) As Twinset explained above, only something you come across if replying to your own posts within 48 hours to stop threads being bumped, but apparently doesn't work like it should and the thread still gets bumped up anyway. It only stops complaints as there's no evidence it has been bumped, the opposite of what the option is for. It's now been turned off. Signature length has been covered before and as Chris has voiced his opinion of it to you in the past I doubt he'll change his mind. Plenty of ways around it using bit.ly or tinyurl unless you want to fill it with a stack of links. PM me to discuss this further to see if there's a way round it. This "hiding hidden gems" is the only strawman argument that is dug up by detractors, and of all the arguments against the rule is the easiest to get around it. If you want to publicise a misspelt 'hidden gem' then there's nothing preventing you posting the auction title, the same goes for pointing others to spare parts you just tell them to search for the part number and then gives them the choice of which seller to go for if there are multiple parts available. To be honest most live links posted to help other members usually do their job before we manage to find them The rule helps the majority as it stops discussions of live auctions, having been around here in the early days it got rather tiring dealing with "how much shall I bid on this", "wow this seller is having a laugh with his prices" and of course the old "I've found this Hornet on ebay" posts. Of course if an auction is worthy of discussion there's nothing to stop anyone discussing it after it's finished. If you are worried about people missing out on hidden gems, you'll find the people who win those auctions have spotted it long before it would get posted on here. Like Twinset has said, we haven't got a clue as to what swear words you post, they are asterisked out for us as well as members. Chris keeps the site family friendly so anything that could be offensive he has added and as moderators we can't do anything about it. I'm sure we all talk differently when children are around us in real life, and you have to remember there could be young children reading this, I know I would be happy referring the 6-8 year old racers at my club to the TC forums while I wouldn't be comfortable sending them to Oople with the banter used there. Also remember that swear words have different levels of offensiveness in different countries. Then again if you can't manage to say what you want to say without swearing, maybe you shouldn't be saying it in the first place. You've got a couple of changes implemented, and the others are unlikely to be changed no matter how much you express your opinion. If you want to discuss anything please continue by PM.
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