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Everything posted by terry.sc

  1. You can buy the touring car size rally blocks, and cut the tread and reglue them, but Tamiya have done the work for you by making rally tyres in mini size for the M05RA, part number is 51427. If you really want the look of touring car rally blocks then Corsair Racing makes mini size rally blocks identical to cut down touring tyres here.
  2. Which makes all this discussion comparing motors irrelevant. You will only notice the difference between motors of the same wind against a stopwatch or lap counter, you won't notice much difference, if any, if you are just bashing. If you want more speed then just go for a lower wind. The 20 turn HPI Saturns are good, although obviously the greater speed means less runtime and it wears out faster, and the gear ratio needs to be adjusted correctly to get the best out of them. You don't want to run them on more than 7.2v. if anything the thick wires means the motor runs hotter, but the wire are cooler as they have a lower resistance.When racing you do everything to get every single hundredth of a second off your laptime, so you use the highest spec ESC you can, Deans/Powerpole/Traxxas/Corally battery connectors instead of the Tamiyas to cut down on resistance, and thick wires directly soldered between motor and ESC again to keep resistance to a minimum, which means the motor gets a few extra hundredths of a volt to get a fraction more speed as hundredths of a second can make a difference on the racetrack.
  3. For a brushless system for crawlers you must use a sensored system, the cheap sensorless systems like the Integy just can't hill hold by design, there's nothing they can do that will hold the truck due to the small magnets in the motor. You can get an amazing improvement in performance by using an outrunner brushless motor instead, such as the Holmes Hobbies Revolver. The Tekin or Novak with a good high turn motor will hold as firm as you can get with better low speed control than any brushless system, it's why very few competition crawlers use brushless.
  4. It depends on the software you are using to edit the pictures. Size isn't too important as the server will resize the pictures to 1024 pixels wide, although setting them at that will speed up the upload. To get the server to recognise them though they must be in the correct format. The image must be a standard jpeg, and the images name must end with the extension .jpg for it to be recognised. Also there have been glitches in the past that while preventing you loading the image you want when setting up the page, later you can edit the showroom page and the images which failed earlier will then happily replace the first ones, so you could try replacing the images.
  5. GB-03 is the TamtechGear Hotshot in 1/16th scale. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/car.asp?id=823 The 1/10th Hotshot doesn't have a chassis number, they pre-date that by 5 years. The chassis type is just Hotshot. No one does a titanium screw set for the Hotshot, if you want any hop ups for it you'll have to find original vintage parts. You will have to buy the screws individually.
  6. As aid above, it means any motor with higher turns. Although I would suggest you look at a Tekin FX-R instead. Better performance, half the size, fully programmable and about the same price. The only advantage the Novak has is a slightly better BEC, but still not good enough for a decent high power servo.
  7. The answer is neither and both. The motors are built to the same spec with the same armature wind, same magnet size, same brush spec. The best Mabuchi will beat the worst Johnson, and the best Johnson will beat the best Mabuchi. The big difference over normal racing motors is that as they are mass produced there is a wide variation in performance between them, those who are really serious about spec class racing with 27 turn closed can motors will buy 10-20 motors, test each one then race with the best. The one that revs the fastest is not necessarily the best as that could also mean that's the one with the weakest magnets. How to get the best performance out of 540 motors, either Mabuchi or Johnson: 1) Buy lots of them, test them and pick the best. 2) Get a good quality ESC. Running a no limit ESC like the Tekin FX Pro will make any 540 fly compared with the basic Tamiya ESC. 3) Cheat by getting lower turn versions, like the 4 slot motor, HPI Saturn 20T, HPI Firebolt 15T r any of the other variations that look just like a standard 540, or retiming a standard motor. If you really want to stick with a 27 turn 540 then you will have to look for an old Johnson motor that has 62200 printed on it. You won't find them in the shops though, Johnson made them in the 90s and the modern versions aren't as fast. Good luck on finding a brand new 10+ years old motor. For running in, the best treatment is to first bed in the brushes by water dipping, then polish and lubricate the bushings. Water dip a new motor running on 7.2v for between 15-20 seconds, any longer won't make much difference. Now flush the water out by spraying motor cleaner or Isopropyl Alcohol spray into the can. Leave to dry for 20-30 minutes then start on the bushings. You just need to take off any high spots in the bushings, so use toothpaste as a grinding paste, it's light enough to not take much off the bushings. Push toothpaste between the bushings and shaft, then run on 3 or 4 cells for 5 minutes. Flush the toothpaste out with the cleaner again. Now lubricate the bushings with a proper bushing oil designed for the job, such as Muchmore CHE-SM Spin Lube for bushings. Keep on lubricating the bushings with the bushing lube regularly, letting them dry out will cause excess wear to the bushings.
  8. Oven cleaner. Make sure the oven cleaner is caustic, the 'safe' cleaners don't have the required ingredients in them that attack the paint, look for Oven Pride. Faster than brake fluid as well.
  9. The Lazer Alpha was used for a range of saloon and rally bodies, although not many were seen outside Japan. A search of the showrooms for lazer alpha throws up a few examples: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...856&id=5927 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...255&id=8468 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...38&id=11214
  10. Yep, on the PMMC link posted above, unfortunately Infoseek pulled their free personal web hosting last October. You can make out what you would need to do from the magazine article pictures http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/5844/frog21fi9.jpg http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5012/frog22fo2.jpg To copy it depends on how good your machining skills are. Take one set of Frog chassis parts, and one TA04 rear gearbox, belt drive, front suspension wishbones and uprights, and some F201 suspension parts to mount the front shocks inboard. Everything else is custom made, lower chassis, front gearbox case, front wheel adapters, even the Frog style rear arms are custom parts. Of course something similar could be built with hand tools, just not to the same level of quality. I know Grahoo knows the person who built it.
  11. If anyone asks for value, the only way of getting a current market value is to look on ebay, although you've unlikely to find this anywhere. I could tell you what I would pay for it, but that doesn't necessarily mean others will value it the same. The only way to work out what it's actually worth is to put it on ebay.
  12. Cheap/easy way to get the steering to work? Easy, slow down when cornering. It's deliberately designed like that so when you try steering at speed it doesn't fall over. When you try steering you should notice the wheels steer but the tyres don't grip enough to actually steer. Grippier tyres will give you more steering, but then you will need to lock up the servo saver and fit a large Kinbrough servo saver on the servo.
  13. All are good. Tamiya don't seem to have any trouble using Tech Racing parts, the TRF415 was a rebadged MY02 and a lot of Tamiyas alloy parts come from Tech.
  14. Mine get a light running http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...9381&id=280 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...9380&id=280 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...6&sid=21287 The Northwest Nutters know how to treat vintage r/cs.
  15. I agree, it's annoying although more for the reasons mike_o gave earlier. Don't see why we can't have it turned off, but as it's only an on/off setting although if we do get lots of shouting in the titles it might have to be turned on again (highly unlikely though!) As Twinset explained above, only something you come across if replying to your own posts within 48 hours to stop threads being bumped, but apparently doesn't work like it should and the thread still gets bumped up anyway. It only stops complaints as there's no evidence it has been bumped, the opposite of what the option is for. It's now been turned off. Signature length has been covered before and as Chris has voiced his opinion of it to you in the past I doubt he'll change his mind. Plenty of ways around it using bit.ly or tinyurl unless you want to fill it with a stack of links. PM me to discuss this further to see if there's a way round it. This "hiding hidden gems" is the only strawman argument that is dug up by detractors, and of all the arguments against the rule is the easiest to get around it. If you want to publicise a misspelt 'hidden gem' then there's nothing preventing you posting the auction title, the same goes for pointing others to spare parts you just tell them to search for the part number and then gives them the choice of which seller to go for if there are multiple parts available. To be honest most live links posted to help other members usually do their job before we manage to find them The rule helps the majority as it stops discussions of live auctions, having been around here in the early days it got rather tiring dealing with "how much shall I bid on this", "wow this seller is having a laugh with his prices" and of course the old "I've found this Hornet on ebay" posts. Of course if an auction is worthy of discussion there's nothing to stop anyone discussing it after it's finished. If you are worried about people missing out on hidden gems, you'll find the people who win those auctions have spotted it long before it would get posted on here. Like Twinset has said, we haven't got a clue as to what swear words you post, they are asterisked out for us as well as members. Chris keeps the site family friendly so anything that could be offensive he has added and as moderators we can't do anything about it. I'm sure we all talk differently when children are around us in real life, and you have to remember there could be young children reading this, I know I would be happy referring the 6-8 year old racers at my club to the TC forums while I wouldn't be comfortable sending them to Oople with the banter used there. Also remember that swear words have different levels of offensiveness in different countries. Then again if you can't manage to say what you want to say without swearing, maybe you shouldn't be saying it in the first place. You've got a couple of changes implemented, and the others are unlikely to be changed no matter how much you express your opinion. If you want to discuss anything please continue by PM.
  16. If you can find Madcap wheels you will find there are very few tyres that will fit on them, they are smaller than modern wheels.
  17. The sanding has nothing to do with surface finish, highly polished or rough finish will make no difference to the smoothness or how much grip the balls have. it's entirely down to making sure the diff washers are flat so there's an even contact between all the balls and the washers. Use 600-800 grit sandpaper, fine enough to get a smooth surface but any finer will just take a lot longer to sand down the high spots.
  18. A melted diff means the diff was too loose and the slipper was too tight. If the ball diff isn't tight enough the balls will slip on the washers, the friction meaning the balls get very hot which melts the plastic gear. t sounds like it was fine with the kit motor but the extra torque of the new motor overcame the friction and spun the balls in the diff. Many run with the kit parts no problem, just make sure the diff will not slip and it should be fine. The slipper clutch should also be set so that it slips before the ball diff does to prevent this from happening.
  19. The chassis was sold by SRM Racing and is for the Hotshot, to run it you would also have to change the steering setup to something similar to this: and the steering servo sits further back on the hole less area of the chassis.
  20. The Tamiya 959 rear wing is moulded in plastic and screws onto the flat sections of the rear of the body, the Bluegroove version is vacformed in polycarbonate and it's left down to you to work out how to attach it. I would suggest gluing it on with Shoe Goo, nothing better for gluing polycarbonate while giving flex and impact protection. As for the motor, it would just need someone to make up a pair of adaptor rings to fit on the motor, although I don't know of anyone who makes them.
  21. For the best advice on painting hard bodies read Shodogs paint guide http://www.j2drc.rchomepage.com/Scaleartic...int%20guide.pdf For details such as the lights don't mask then off when spraying and just paint them after you have sprayed the main colours.
  22. Almost everywhere in the world uses metric pinions, whose metric gear teeth are sized by module. The US uses diametrical pitch (DP) to size their imperial gears. RC racing started in the US, so they used DP size pinions, which is why DP pinions became the r/c industry standard for race cars and we have the strange situation of race cars being completely metric apart from a 3/8 inch adaptor for the spur gear. When Tamiya and Kyosho started manufacturing r/c cars they used the metric standard for their gears, so their pinions are either 0.4, 0.6 or 0.8 module except for the top spec racing cars which have recently adopted the racing standards of DP gears to maintain compatibility with the other racers gear and so racers don't have to buy a complete set of metric pinions to run Tamiyas TRF cars. You will always find loads of DP pinions around as being the racing standard a racer will buy a whole range of pinions, while metric pinions are these days restricted to non racing cars so usually only bought to replace a worn pinion as only a tiny minority are geared properly or have their motors changed, so it's usually hard to find 0.6 module steel pinions as only RW Racing and Robinson Racing make full ranges of them. Of course being UK based RW Racing pinions are available through any UK hobby shop, if a shop doesn't stock them they can order them for you, although Ansmann have taken to repackaging RW pinions and selling them under their own name at a cheaper price. The FF01, TB01 and CC01 all use 0.6 module pinions and the whole range is available through TC supporter Modelsport http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?Manu...tegoryID=992050
  23. RW Racing pinions are also sold as Ansmann pinions. These are the same pinion, just different header cards: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=36992 http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/RW0600-25.html
  24. Apologies if it seems I'm a little late getting back to this, I have other things in real life that are more important for me to deal with right now, and it's been a week since I was last able to spend any time here, but I feel you do deserve an answer. Apologies if you took the tone of my reply unsuitable, my reply was somewhat dismissive as there has been no real demand for a change, and judging by all the other replies I would have expected our reply of "no, but ask any mod and we will change it for you" to be a suitable answer that anyone else would have accepted and would have been the end of the discussion. Whether it's a default setting or not is irrelevant, if it is left on that should be down to the site owner, and likely a legacy of this being the third forum software TC has used, it wasn't always ipboard. I'm sure we can all find lists of sites that prove our point, I know for example that rccrawler.com doesn't allow topic edits either, and of the ones you listed the only one I visit regularly also allows mild swearing and is known that moderators have amended entries in the feedback section. I also moderate rcracechat, where topic editing is the least of the restrictions on the forum. So in my own particular case almost half the r/c car sites I regularly visit have the same topic editing restrictions. The point is moot, we can always find more sites that back up both ends of the spectrum, and others have replied to also point this out. Again, your perspective of me stating "while other forums have similar restrictions" meaning Tamiyaclub is not the only site on the internet that doesn't allow topic editing, is that you then take that as meaning "vast majority" which I did not state at all. It is hard to discuss it when you make extreme assumptions like this which seem to be based on my disagreeing on your original assumption.As for Tamiyaclub being stricter than other sites, the only real restriction that most forum members ever come across is not posting live ebay links that aren't your own. There are valid reasons for this, but to be honest it's not exactly difficult to circumvent it. If you want to level any "police state" accusations then please visit rcracechat, where non subscribers can't post any links or images, and even subscribers aren't allowed to link to shops that aren't advertisers. Of course if you had started this thread over there you would have reached you three strikes and been banned by now. Also it seems on the majority of forums trying to criticise moderators would have the thread deleted and the poster warned. Remember at the end of the day each site is privately owned and sites are run how the site owner sees fit. It's good to see from the other replies that others seem to be happy with the job we are doing. In situations like this when someone is upset with our moderating we always suggest the complainant going direct to Chris, after all if you were upset with your manager at work you wouldn't ask him to pass on your complaint about his behaviour to his manager. After all, if we contacted Chris ourselves on your behalf you can see that it would be from our own point of view. At the end of the day it's Chris's website not ours, we just follow the rules he has laid down. If you contact him directly and convince him to make a change then there's nothing we can do to block it. It also gets around the problem of Chris's work, where sometimes he gets back instantly as he is in his office, while if he is working elsewhere in the world it can take several days before we hear from him. Gets a bit tiring when we send a message and don't hear back, while having to deal with a member who is convinced we are being obstructive. Hopefully you can now see why our ultimate response is to contact Chris directly. We would be happy to discuss constructive improvements, although the arguments for have to be stronger than "because other sites have it" and should be put over in a more persuasive way than this one.In this case you asked if we would allow it. As in the past year there have been a total of 3 times we have been asked to change thread titles and as each time takes only a minute or two we are happy to put up with what is a minor inconvenience considering the amount of times it occurs, so we said we wouldn't change the setting. Rather than accepting the decision or suggesting turning it on for a trial period your reply was dismissive of my reply with an attack on our moderating and an insistence that we change the settings even though we had already said no. It is hard to get anyone to agree with your suggestions while at the same time attacking what they are currently doing. Coming up with a suggestion and having a valid reason for it that will help the majority of members will always be considered.
  25. Can you explain why wanting something changed isn't a complaint that you are not happy with the current status. If you are anyone wants to change title then contacting any of the mods (not just Twinset and I) will get it changed. To 'pay homage' would infer that you feel we are acting like gods over Chris's domain and would decide ourselves whether to change the title or not, while you would prefer to have full control over whatever you want to post. I presume your request was to enable you to edit whatever you have wrote on TC including the titles was as if it is some specific restriction limited to TC, while other forums have similar restrictions, so why do you think the level of access here is different? We have prioritised convenience first. It is more convenient for us to have to edit any title corrections than it is for us to deal with changing the forum settings, remember we are r/c car fans, not computer/web experts . You have drawn conclusions based on your own personal opinion that we are deliberately preventing you from doing what you want, without considering that it is something that doesn't affect 99%+ of the forum members. 1) In 3 years there has been no demand to change from any other members, as can be seen by the gap between your posts and that no other threads have been started. I also haven't received any messages asking for the ability to edit title be turned on, although I have received the very occasional request to change a title. So why would we feel the need to review the policy. 2) There isn't an obvious reason that I can think of to withhold the function, conversely there isn't an obvious reason to change the function either. I would presume there are valid reasons to keep the staus quo as are the vast majority of forums won't allow you to change the titles. The only reason to change it is for your own convenience. 3) It takes a leap of imagination to understand "I can think of a valid reason for not allowing it, I'm not saying in case it gives some forum members ideas" as a grave distrust of forum members. There are one or two members who we have to keep track of and deal with privately who regularly push the limits of the rules to waste our time dealing with them when out time could be better spent doing more useful work. This does not translate into a distrust of all forum members, in the same way having had one ebayer scam me doesn't mean I distrust every ebay member. I presume your conclusion from my statement might have something to do with your recent ban, it's hard to complain that we might not wholeheartedly trust every forum member when you have just been suspended for breaking the rules by deliberately bypassing the swear filter. It is hard to convince us to levy a little trust when you can't obey the current rules. I can't comment on Twinsets empathy, although getting Andy to deal with anything seriously is difficult as has been shown above. We aren't employed to moderate both the main site and the forums, much as we would love to be able to do it full time, so we have to prioritise what we do in our spare time and yes I would rather not have to deal with someone complaining about a function that isn't available on the majority of websites and isn't requested by other members of this forum when I could be spending my time helping other members r/c car problems. We have our own lives outside of TC and we have to fit everything in whatever time we have, which is why I'm replying to this after 2am here and I'll be up at 7.30. 1) We aren't computer experts and we don't have full access to the site, we are just moderators so we can't just switch on topic editing for all to please you, it's something Chris would have to do so we would have to convince him that there's a valid reason for the change. As you can probably guess yes it is easier just for us to edit the very occasional request for a change of topic. If you feel you can honestly convince Chris to turn it on the please feel free to contact him from his showroom page. I would also have to ask if it has worked for ages why should we change when you have been the only member to request it, apart from you would feel it's more convenient for you personally. When was the last time you asked a mod to edit the topic for you and how much more inconvenient was it? 2) So only 2 out of 1m people want it, can't be important. So do you consider that because you are one of the two people it should be important and we should be spending our time dealing with the two people rather than all the others? 3) There are several websites I frequent that have rules that I'm not happy with. Like most people I just respect the rules while on those particular sites rather than spend my time complaining about them. I don't have an 'alter ego' at all, unless you consider moderating on an impartial and professional basis as a representative of TC ensuring all members follow the rules as an alter ego, in much the same way I treat my customers at work on a more professional basis than my work colleagues. I know there are other forum members in the past who have felt I have been biased against them purely because I wouldn't give them preferential treatment over all other members. We can have a mature discussion on this or any subject, but it is impossible to have a discussion, mature or not, when you are already entrenched in your conclusion that you want the rule changed whatever is said. If you don't accept that there might be a difference of opinion then we will just keep on going ad infinitum as you won't consider a change of opinion or middle ground, while with no leeway from you we won't be considering turning editing on just to appease you.As for my attitude, my attitude is purely on a professional basis and I have no personal opinions either way on the subject as was seen by my clear reply earlier. I'm neither upset nor disappointed, there are rules we have that are imposed on us as well as the members, some rules I wish were different, but it is my job on this site to ensure the members stick to them whatever my opinion of the rules. I realise that this unemotional reaction can be hard to deal with but it ensures I treat everyone equally.
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