terry.sc

If the information above has tempted you, don't forget they were $200 each so if one ever comes up for sale they aren't particularly cheap.

Have you actually looked on this site? http://www.tamiyaclub.com/car.asp?id=166 Manual available here and plenty of built examples.

I agree with Shodog, polycarbonate bodies are a dream to cut out, although we do know what we are doing and have had a fair amount of practice. Score along the moulded cut lines with a scalpel and fold over to snap it off. For tighter curves and awkward corners use curved body scissors and for neat round mounting holes nothing beats a body reamer.

You want to look for 2.2" tyres, Tamiya are the only company that lists them by their metric size. A good all round tyre are the Proline Dirt Hawgs, Dirt Hawg I rears and Dirt Hawg III fronts. Alternatively if you want a lower profile there's Schumachers on road range. Although if you are racing on carpet the tyre of choice is Schumacher mini pins in yellow compound with Schumacher medium green inserts. If it gives too much grip switch to Schumacher mini spikes in yellow compound with medium or firm inserts.

The official way is to leave the screw out of the rear hole of one of the holders, so you can lift it off the peg it fits over and swing it out of the way.

You won't find it in the original Hotshot manual as it wasn't a Hotshot part, it was only used on the Hotshot 2 and is in the Hotshot 2 press parts bag, 9405321 According to the rerelease Hotshot manual, it's also listed in the new press parts bag, part number 9400639.

1) You will need to use the original C clips. 2) The cutaway just gives more clearance between the output and the gearbox hole. Makes no difference to the fitment. 3) The urethane bushings are just foam pieces that push the rear driveshafts into the axles, all they will do is stop the driveshafts rattling as I don't ever recall a problem of the rear driveshafts falling out. The bushings aren't used in the front.

It's written from the point of view of a Double Dare fan, not a neutral r/c fan, and that's the only reason it has a page on Wikipedia. Lack of knowledge is fairly obvious when talking about Kyoshos gold buggy shocks as a DDare option part while Clods have to use 'dull' CVAs and that the DDare could be upgraded with Kyosho Mega Motors while the Clod couldn't. The Double Dare was too small to be competition to the Clod, whose biggest selling point was it's sheer size. The Double Dare fitted in between the Blackfoot and Clodbuster, it was never a direct competitor to any Tamiya trucks. A modern version of the Double Dare is the Twin Detonator, smaller than a Clod with 2.2" wheels and a gearbox at each end. Kyosho never matched the Clod until they brought out the USA-1, a bigger version of the Double Dare. A much better performer than the Double Dare, the USA-1 could corner faster than a Clod thanks to the Clod size tyres and independent suspension, but at least Clod drivetrains didn't self destruct and the Clod suspension didn't bend in impacts like USA-1s did. It really says something about which is more superior that the Clod is still around today.

Still the same question to ask yourself. Did you bid the maximum you were prepared to pay for it? If you did, then someone was prepared to pay more than you and they would have still won if they had bid at the start of the auction, sniping has nothing to do with it. If you had sniped as well you would have still lost the auction. \If you were prepared to bid more, then you of all people should know how proxy bidding works and I doubt very much they only bid $31, remember they have no idea how big your bid was and to be successful at sniping you have to be prepared to bid big so expect their bid to be much higher. I know if I was determined to win that auction with the current high bid being $22.50 I would look at bidding $35-40 as I wouldn't have a second chance to up my bid. Only ebay newbies who don't understand the ebay bidding system should be unhappy that they lost out "by $1" when in reality they were way off the actual winning bid. You should only feel aggrieved if you were prepared to pay much more than the final price, which once again begs the question why didn't you bid what you were prepared to pay.

Too cold so the paint doesn't dry when it's on the body, then putting too much on top so it all runs down and gathers in the bottom before it dries. In this weather you need to warm everything up so the paint dries quickly. Leave the can sitting in a bucket of hand warm water to help thin the paint so it gives a more even coverage, and use a hairdrier to warm up the body before painting. Spray one light coat then hit the body again with the hairdrier to dry the thin coat of paint quickly. Spray another thin coat of paint, then blast it with the hairdrier again. Repeat until the paint is solid enough, you will usually need 3-4 coats minimum to give a solid colour. The body might be salvageable. It looks like the window masks have lifted and will need rubbing down and you are likely to have runs on the windows, but warming the body and applying light coats will give you a solid enough colour that should look fine when running.

It is just as simple as screwing a ball joint to the lower arm, but it's Tamiya you are talking about here. Tamiya isn't going to tell their customers to mark out and drill a hole in the wishbone to modify it (imagine buying your first kit and the tools required includes a power drill!) so in typical Tamiya over engineering style they make a little bracket to position the ball joint in the right place. Just make sure when you drill the hole you can get a nut on the back of the ball joint as the plastic isn't thick enough to support the weight on the ball joint thread. The tricky part is working out the upper mounts.

The picture in Blaque Jacques showroom shows it clearly. He used TL01 front suspension, then TL01 rear uprights with TA01 rear wishbones, then used washers and spacers to fill in the gaps between the wishbone and the chassis mount and upright. The TA01 wishbones are expensive to find them new, although you should be able to find used ones. A much better alternative is that you can easily modify the TL01 wishbones to allow you to move the rear uprights the 2mm further back. The TL01 wishbones are split in two halves and screw together, so by making up a 1mm thick spacer to go between the two halves of the rear wishbones it gives you a 1mm gap on both the inner and outer pivots which overall moves the upright back the required 2mm. Just fill the gaps with 1mm thick 3mm shims, most r/c car companies make small packs of them.

Yes, standard 0.6 module pinions. 16T pinion if you have the 41T spur gear, 18T pinion if you have the 40T spur gear.

Try and find your local model car club and run with fellow drivers. http://www.brca.org/?q=user/128

That's what the internet and debit and credit cards are for. You will notice almost every reply you got was from UK based members and most of us regularly buy from Hong Kong and Japan. If you want to stick with UK shops then you only have HPI to choose from.

You are assuming that to work well it should be set up like a touring car, rather than like the basher it is. Changing to softer springs will get it to sit down rather than at full travel, but it means it will bottom out when it goes over jumps and bumps and it will roll over more when cornering. The stiffer springs keep it up in the air and the more bouncy suspension is the main appeal of these style of monster truck. They aren't designed for precision handling and off road performance and the over sprung suspension is what gives them their character. I did the same with my Bush Devil as it's undamped shocks were binding and locked up the suspension, it transformed it from a fun basher to a boring truck that glided round, fell over, and would no longer wheelie. All the attributes of a buggy but without any of the speed made it pretty boring. It's currently running the hardest springs I can fit on it. If you are wanting something that glides over the surface you really need something designed for it like a buggy or stadium truck, not a Monster Beetle. If you still want to soften the suspension then get two sets of rear buggy shocks, then you have a wide range of springs you can choose from.

Surprised to see Wldnas doesn't have one of these, but a search of 'Supershot' found it. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...7111&id=761 Identical to the Supershot except all the Tamiya two star logos and name have been removed from everything. As for buying a copy instead of the real thing, I think it would be impossible to find the clone anywhere these days. You will only have a chance of coming across one of these if you are buying a very broken car second hand from China, even then almost all of them will be genuine.

As for the UK price, taking inflation into account £450 is about the modern equivalent of what the original price was in the 80s. It's why no one could afford one back then. As for Quite often UK retailers can't buy the kits from the Hobby Company for the price you can buy retail in Hong Kong, or for only a little less. Retail pricing in Hong Kong also doesn't include any sales tax at all, unlike the 20% VAT shops in the UK have to add the their prices. I'm sure if the UK shops and distributor could pay the same utility, rates, rent, wages(£2.30 an hour) and tax(max 16%) bills that they do in Hong Kong they could easily match Hong Kong prices.

May I point out Twinsets earlier post: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...st&p=398790

For the forums click on 'My Controls' at the top of this page, then choose 'Change Email Address' at the bottom of the left hand column. For the main site go to your showroom, make sure you are logged in and click on 'edit your details' in the large red box near the top of the page.

Try rc-lohas, wheels are 2.2" to take modern tyres, just replace the triangle wheel adaptor with a standard hex drive. Don't know of any others as alloy wheels and buggies aren't really compatible and they soon bend.

It's a very dark blue so if you are using Tamiya paints I would suggest a thin coat of PS-38 translucent blue backed with PS-5 black. I would think Parma Faskolor 40306 Blue backed with black would be nearer. You will have to experiment with how much blue you apply before backing with black, practice on empty 2 litre clear coke bottles so you can see what the colour will look like when the paint is on the body and try different numbers of coats of blue until it looks right when backed with the black.

A couple of options. Best option, fitting the rear suspension and driveshafts from a TL01 will give you a 190mm wide rear end with normal wheels. Alternatively TG10 axles, part number 50808 with TL01/M03 rear uprights, part number 53345 will give you 10mm extra width, then if you are using touring car size wheels Speedway Pal drift wheels have up to 10mm offset which adds up to 30mm extra width. hard to find front wheels to match at the standard width though. Or there's RC4WD wheel wideners that will add 30mm to the width of the chassis.

Most racing Rough Riders back in the 80s had a set of Ranger/Brat wheels with sand Blaster rears on as a tuning aid. Clearance when steering on a Scorcher might be a problem. As a suggestion of something more scale looking, narrow the tyres by cutting out the centre row of blocks or two and gluing the two halves back together so the new narrow fronts fit the Rough Rider front wheels. It should give a similar look to Toykids Scorcher with narrowed Pajero tyres.

I cannot personally prove this, I just found out myself yesterday on here: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...=59316&st=0 But I see no reason why that might not be true. Hopefully someone has more info on this. Seems no one answered this, and it needs answering as I like facts to actually be true. Top Force Racer/Tenzor has rewritten the rubbish that TamiyaUSA posted on their TRF site, which I corrected here. The Avante never raced on the international scene at all. As for "Tamiya desperately wanted to dominate the 1988 IFMAR World Championship" the buggy world championships run in odd numbered years, there wasn't a world championships in 1988. The 87 worlds pre-dated the Avante and at the 89 worlds Tamiya was represented by one non sponsored frenchman with an Egress and Astute. Unless Tamiya managed to do something in the races in Japan, the Avante never won anything, nor was it competitive at anything above club racing. Even the Egress with the UKs top driver struggled to win anything, most of the Egress's 'wins' being when it was being developed as the Manta Ray prototype with many hand made parts. There was an article in RC Car Action magazine which was a shootout between the Optima Mid SE, Yokomo C4, Schumacher Cat and Avante. Considering the Avante was the latest car at the time it still finished fourth. We also have reviews of it in the vintage media section review, running report which although posiitve aren't exactly great.