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About VagabondStarJXF

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  • Birthday 05/08/1976

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  • Location
    In London, UK.
  • Interests
    RC's, Paintball, Video Gaming, Movies, Women... and not necessarily in that order!

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  1. I've just started trying PETG recently myself. Dry your filament before each use. I dried mine for over a day before the first print, just for a bit of overkill, then forgot to dry it before the next print a couple of days later. Needless to say the print went a bit weird. It took me a few failed prints before I remembered that PETG is really, really hygroscopic. 😄
  2. Have you got any other batteries to try other than the 1300mAh NiCd?
  3. Yup. Dust is not your 3D Printer's friend. Creality do portable type enclosures (now available from other companies too) that should fit the Prusa mk3 just fine if you want to print in the more temperature sensitive materials like ABS. I have one left over from when I was using my Tevo Tornado and I'd printed ABS ok with it. I'm not sure if I'd try the really, really sensitive ones (like Nylon, PEEK, etc.) with that kind of setup. I'm not even confident enough to try those with an X1C.
  4. Thanks. I'm basically stalled on most of my projects due to custom parts needed so that's what I was thinking about doing on my projects, CAD & 3D scanning/printing as part of the project. As I'm not entirely sure how those parts are going to work out I'm sure that there's going to be a lot of experimenting thing going on. Custom parts FTW! Thanks for the advise on lighting. I've been looking at the umbrellas but I'm a bit unsure about how I can place them in my room as space is a premium. The light boxes seem like a nicer idea but I think I'm going to have the same problem with placement & space. That being said, I do have a pop up photo booth that came with some 'backgrounds' which might work as diffusers... if I can remember where I put them!?! I'd replaced the bulbs on my spot lamps when I'd bought them for the exact reason you'd mentioned. I don't know why they were so badly mismatched in the first place. Maybe one bulb was on its way out? Anyways, good advise on the bulbs. Thanks.
  5. Hey everyone on TC! Long time no see! I'd reduced my time on TC a few years back because I was working/tired all the time so, after a couple of years of 'lurking' on here, I find myself going back to an idea I'd had back in 2010 of making a YouTube RC video show/blog/thing. I'd never really given up on the RC hobby (probably never will) so doing vids about my builds was what the main idea was about. The only problem is that I really don't know anything about doing the whole YouTube thing. As some of us on TC do vids regularly I'm hoping people can chime in on how to build a YT channel. I'm going to be doing builds so that's not the most exciting thing ever but I'm hoping that I can avoid making the show too boring to watch so any pointers about avoiding 'boring-ness' will be appreciated. If anyone has advice on setting up their room as a 'studio' that's also be appreciated. For filming I have 3 small 1080p camcorders to capture multiple angles. They're all the same model, and they're old models for sure, but they were cheap and film pretty well. My initial idea was to have one cam for me, one for my desk and one for close up shots of whatever I'm building. Each camera has time lapse capability but no slow-mo. I do have a small selection of small tripods to stand them on my desk and only one large enough to stand on the floor. For lighting I have 2 small spot lamps that can add a lot of light (they're blindingly bright) although I don't have anything to diffuse or reflect at this moment. My window is semi-blocked by equipment at the moment so natural light shouldn't be too much of an issue. For sound recording I've got a small lavalier mic setup but that only attaches to my phone or my laptop so I don't have any other decent way of recording sound at the moment. The camcorders don't have a mic input on them. For editing I have no clue as to what programs to use. When I did my first few vids back in 2010/11 I had access to Windows Movie Maker which was free and did a decent enough job but now, in 2024, that program no longer exists. I can't fork out the money for Adobe (as good as I hear it is) so if anyone has any recommendations for free software that'd handle the task of A/V editing that's be great. For Content... Obviously I'm going to be doing vids about my RC builds, as I'd stated earlier, but what exactly about the builds would everyone like to see? How informative would you like the builds to be? Would RC painting vids be welcomed viewing? Are you interested in watching someone fumble around in CAD and/or 3D scanning before 3D printing? Is there any RC related content that isn't in the multitude of RC vids out there that you'd like to see? (or to see attempted in a YT channel) N.B. I don't have an RC track (or access to one) and nowhere really available to run my RCs in safety so action vids will be minimal if any. Lastly... Is it worth setting up a Patreon account right from the beginning? What even is Patreon? Is it better to use than YouTube? Thanks in advance to all who can offer advice and/or tips & tricks on how to get this idea up 'n running. J. P.S. I apologise if this is in the wrong section of TC. Mods - please move if necessary. Many Thanks, J.
  6. I also highly recommend the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon (a.k.a the X1C). I got mine last November on the Black Friday sale and I've never had such an easy time with 3D printing. Admittedly all the stuff I'd learned in the prior years of having a Tevo Tornado (along with all its problems) made the X1C feel like a Godsend. It is a bit pricey (currently £1099 for the base model) for someone who will occasionally dabble in 3D Printing but if you're intent on doing a lot of bits 'n pieces (e.g. I printed a couple of vases the other week... who'd have thought, eh?) you wouldn't be wrong for getting an X1C.
  7. All Cartesian style bed slingers, ones with the print bed moving on the y-axis, are pretty much the entry point to 3D printing for most people. As such they're pretty good if you can get used to them. There's a bit of a learning curve to get the best out of any 3D printer but, if your friend of a friend doesn't mind helping you, you might have an easier time of it than I did. I don't have anyone to hand that knows about 3D printer stuff so I'm having to work stuff out for myself using a combination of trial & error combined with YouTube & Google. 😄
  8. This! It's recoverable though but you'll need a lot of clear paint, and even more patience. Basically you'll need to do a few clear coats to build up to a sandable level. This is when you can carefully wet sand a bit. Then you add a few more clear layers and lightly wet sand again. You'll need to repeat this until you're happy with the levelling of your paint. Once you're happy you can do your final clear coat, cure, polish and buff. It's a lot of work/time but it's pretty much the way to get the best finish. Edit: the trick is to "fill" the dips in the orange peel instead of sanding away the "peaks", if you know what I mean?
  9. I figured they'd be gone but, as the saying goes, "if you don't ask" and all that. 😁 thanks for responding. 👍
  10. I know this is a long shot as it's coming up to a year since this was posted but do you still have these tracks for sale?
  11. I'm pretty sure that that Lunchie is the reason why I've got a TLT-1 based Pumpkin project amongst my list of unfinished projects. Peace be with you, @MadInventor, my TamiyaClub brother.
  12. I've done both and the price is generally more for the through link as it uses more material, although not a lot more. I personally prefer the sprue type but sometimes it can break apart in post processing if it's too thin.
  13. Just a heads up... DHL can still send you a letter later with the charges you have to pay. Happened to me the last couple of times I'd ordered via Tamico. Also same applies for FedEx and UPS. Had the same happen with both of them.
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