aconsola(2)

They are all like that, the stock shock bodies don't do much besides take up some space to pre-load the springs. once the weight of the model is on them, they stay put pretty good, and I've never been able to break one of the chrome shock bodies -Anthony

I've never heard of that brand, but most work similarly. the 2 adjustments are generally one for neutral, one for full throttle. hook everything up, and support the model off the ground so the wheels can spin freely. turn on the radio and make sure the throttle trim is centered. turn on the car. . .see what happens. if the speedo is working the way you expect it to, then leave the screws alone [] if the wheels are spinning, adjust the neutral adjuster until they stop, Next use the transmitter to go full throttle, most esc's will have an indicator light that lets you know when full throttle is reached(some lights come on with throttle, off at full, or blink at full). the second adjuster generally is used to set when full throttle is reached, to compensate for different radios and driving styles. play with the second adjuster until full throttle comes on at a spot to your liking. Hope this helped, -Anthony

Clod axles from both generations are the same, just molded in different colors. They both use 24 bearings. The catch is that if you bought a NIB clod it comes with 4 bearings. One on each axle next to the diff, see the super clod manual page 11. many of the bearing kits therefore do not include these as they come in the kit. If you are getting a new axles you probably need all 24 as the axle kits are pieced together from spare parts bags and don't usually include the 4 bearings. at any rate, the price between the 20 and 24 kits is usually small enough that you should just get the 24 and have some spares -Anthony quote: Originally posted by Mofomaxx Hello all, I wonder if anyone can help me out, im building a clod based crawler, its nearly there at last, but having ordered my clod axle kit from the uS (just can't get 'em over here) i figured i'd pick up a bearing kit off ebay.... problem is the Clod bearing kits i can find include 20 bearings, the Super Clod kit has 24 bearings, but i thought they were the same axle/gearbox design ? to ad to the problem im not a 100% which axles iv got, (clod/superclod)i'm assuming they must be superclod axles as i didnt think any original clod spares were still available new ? Anyone shed any light on this for me ? Cheers Andy id="quote">id="quote">

Terracrusher all the way! It is a great winter car. It was tons of fun in snow, using hard-packed drifts from the plow on the side of the road as a launch ramp. It was tough to get tuned at first. It was so cold out I had to change back to the stock head from the big aftermarket one, and use a hot plug instead of medium to keep it Idling. Eventually I wound up covering half the head in alunminum foil to keep airflow down to allow it to stay warm. I went all out and got some 40% nitro/12% oil race fuel, The stock engine was quite powerful like this, and never went over 200 degrees(despite the heatsink being covered with foil) If you get a lot of snow, 4wd and big tires are a must. Have fun, -Anthony

While torturing myself on the treadmill this morning(it faces the RC shelf, so it's not that bad)I began to think about that shiny new re-release lunchbox that should be here any week. The thought occured to me: how should it look? I had one when I was 14, and needless to say I was not the most patient of people then. If trying to re-live my youth should I build up the lunchbox as it "should have been" with a careful clean paintjob, or should I try to reproduce what it actually looked like 15 years ago and rush the paintjob with an obligatory drip and patch of orange peel? Luckily I did not fall off the treadmill despite the deep thoughts. [] -Anthony

Nice collections! Gixer Jay, any way you could take more pix of your traxxas trucks or get some old traxxas manuals scaned? There's not a lot of info out there on the older traxxas products, at least not that I could find. Thanks, -Anthony

It's not so much a problem with the steering rods or servo as it is with weight distribution. The front of the truck is very light and it has a tendency to wheelie most of the time. With little weight on the front it has very little steering. To help with steering, move weight forward, put the esc and receiver up in front of the servo. To beef up the steering, there were heavy duty steering kits sold back in the lunchbox glory days. These were basically dubro rod ends and 4-40 threaded rod. On the outboard side I would reccommend using the rod-ends with 2-56 balls. The screws are smaller and similar to the stock (2mm) size so you don't have to drill out the uprights to 4-40 which can weaken them. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD906&P=7) Dubro does make 2mm ball-ends, but they are made for 2mm threaded rod, not as strong as 4-40. For the servo saver use the standard small kimbrough to match your brand servo, and for the inboard rod ends, either the same as above, or save some $ and use whatever you've got that fits. I usually use the outer hole on the uprights, gives more leverage to turn the big tires, and still has enough throw to go lock-to-lock. -Anthony

if you look closely, the on/off switch sticker has the directions reversed. -Anthony

Here is a side by side of both old and new sticker sheets, The scan from above pasted into photoshop and combined with a scan I made of the originals(before I cut them up and used them) the differences I see are: 1. new one has no sponsor logos 2. new one has light stickers 3. the stripe and truck stickers are combined into one on the re-issue. 4. (nitpicky) on the big "vanessas lunchbox" logo, on the original the V in Vanessa lines up exactly with the edge ofthe N in lunchbox. on the new "vanessa is offset to the right by half an "N" 5. License plate on the old is longer and short, on the new is more proportionally shaped compared to an actual plate. 6. copyright date 7. www.tamiya.com replaces vanessas phone number 8. No "Caution Hot" resistor decal. 9. Stars and stripes and blue "Tamiya" are missing from new 10. the on/off switch sticker has the directions reversed Any others to add to the list? -Anthony P.S. edited to include items pointed out by others

THE HPI wheels are supposed to be universal. you will need to get the adapter set to fit them to the tamiya axles. The wheels normally come with the adapters. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN055&P=7 This is a set of bearing cups for different size bearings. They also make rear adapters for fitting the hex-type wheels to the older tamiya 5-point hubs http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXN057&P=V -Anthony quote:Originally posted by Muddy CarsHello, I have a full set of HPI geolander tyres, sadly they don't seem to fit any Tamiya rims I have. Does anyone know of any genuine Tamiya rims they fit onto? At present they are on some HPI superstar truck rims, but I cannot get a bearing size to fit them on my Wild Willy 2. I would appear to need 4 bearings of a size 9mm by 5mm. 10mm are too big and 8mm too small, as I have tried them already. Thanks Clive id="quote">id="quote">

The sponsor decals don't really matter for the LB. They are not pictured on the box-art so the purist would not use them anyway [8D] taillight stickers seem like they would be useless. IIRC, the taillights are molded in decent detail, so it will be difficult to contour the flat stickers over the 3-d molded lights. I can't wait to get my hands on one of the re-releases. I've had at least one lunchbox at all times since 1990. I bought/sold/traded many since, but keep one around for driving. I haven't had a proper hard-body lunchbox in many years. -Anthony P.S. anybody have solid info on release dates in the uSA?

It is a traxxas nitro something-or-other [] The wheels look on the smaller side, like anitro buggy, but the body mounts are set up more like the truck. at any rate, they used the same basic chasis components, so should be interchangeable for getting parts. Here is a link to a good page on the traxxas site with lots of info on the older models. -Anthony http://www.traxxas.com/support/legacy_models.htm

and other rc related items on Ebay. I'm cleaning out some excess waiting for the new lunchbox to come in. http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZaconsola Thanks for looking -Anthony

I have a new-built F2001 Ferrari #58288 for sale. It was never run. I planned on running it at the local carpet track, but it closed before I got around to it. The only tracks left are off road. I can't bring myself to run it in the streets, which around here have lots of sand and junk. It was built with the reinforced lower arms, bearings in the steering, and the tamiya turnbuckle kit. I have the speed tuned gearset nip to go with it. It is stickered per the instructions, and will include all the extra parts and screws in a small parts divider box. I did commit one sin [:I] , I used pactra racing red rather than original tamiya paint, as the tamiya stuff is not available locally I can email pictures. I'm located in the uSA(upstate NY) and can ship anywhere in the world. Paypal prefered, but not a must. Hoping to get $145 (inc. shipping for uSA) but I'm open to offers. Thanks, -Anthony

I used Stampede wheels inside the clods, glue them with your favorite silicone goop stuff, and drill out the clod wheel center so you cn get a nut driver in there to tighten the nut on the stampede wheel. It works well, just be careful to get everything flush or you will have a wobble. I used them to widen the clod and it worked well. It took me 3 years [|)] to finally get the bright Idea to try them out on my Stampede, they work great on the small truck, just make sure you have a good steering servo. -Anthony

It's hard to tell size from the pic, but if they are clod tire sized, they are probably for the clod. [] Many of the aluminum rims mount directly to the axle hex rather than using the big plastic hub. it looks like the groove machined into the back of the rim will go right over the hex, although it will only grab on 2 sides. -Anthony quote:Originally posted by swamperstomperi bought these rims for a clod i was told thats what they were off of.but the wheel hubs are diff.does anyone know anything about these wheels?please help.thanks. view here>>> http://www.clodtalk.com/viewtopic.php?p=104504#104504 id="quote">id="quote">

Also make sure there is not a bad bearing or something else binding on the side it steers to. -Anthony quote:Originally posted by DiscoI think its the torque steer of the front wheel drive chassis mine does it when the ball diff needs a rebuild. I would rebuild the diff and see it that cures it and check there is not too much play in the steering. id="quote">id="quote">

This is an age old debate, 2 packs in parallel or stop to swap. The extra pack provides more weight, but if you use cheap batteries like I do, having 2 in parallel may seem more powerful since the amperage output from 2 packs is higher for a given voltage. The cheap($15-20 stick packs) do not keep their voltage up well when subjected to higher loads such as dual motors. There should be a lower voltage drop under heavy acceleration with 2 packs in parallel. This may actually increase useable runtime more than 2 single packs run separately since the packs are less stressed and should not heat up as quickly. Using 2 stick packs in parallel is the same Idea as Li-po battery packs, they regularly use configurations which have sets of parallel cells in series to get the voltage and capacity they want with a good enough constant amp output level. The high-quality matched side by side packs would likely benefit much less from dual packs in parallel as they tend to keep their voltage up better than the cheap packs. Of course this is all untested as I don't have the time to do any proper experiments. . . -Anthony

Shodog, I had wanted one for a while and Got it off ebay a couple years back. I then got bored with it and sold it on ebay as I was starting to accumulate too much according to the wife. I still have some good pix of it saved on my HD, I Put them on my webspace for all to see. It shows the full package as I believe it came originally, charger, radio and all. All were MRC products. It is rather old, has the Black MSC board instead of the newer tan, and the radio plugs were the old style with the pins sticking out rather than the new J-type. Hope this helps, -Anthony http://home.stny.rr.com/aconsola/pictures/

I was just on there last night looking up some kits. none of the pages stored in my history will load. Maybe the site is ofline for maintnence? of note the tamiyausa link is gone from the bottom of tamiya.com, but the map of the USA still links to tamiyausa.com -Anthony

When the car is in the air are all 4 wheels spinning in the same direction? seems like a stupid question, but I once thought i toasted a speed control on my clod, it turned out I switched one wire to one motor and both ends of the truck were trying to go in different directions. assuming you are not as absent minded as I am, make sure there is no binding in either gearcse, and that everything mooves smoothly, and that your battery is fully charged. -Anthony

It looks a lot like the diff I just took out of my stampede, but your gear is much wider. Maybe it's for an older traxxas vehicle? something like this: http://www.traxxas.com/products/electric/t...nts/tcptran.gif -Anthony

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...me=STRK:MESE:IT Thanks, -Anthony

the fox parts: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...me=STRK:MESE:IT Does this fit any other cars? also a tekin titan esc http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...me=STRK:MESE:IT Thanks, -Anthony

I made my pack from sub-c cells in a modified saddle pack configuration. 3 side by side cells flat in the rear connected with some 12g wire to 3 cells in a triangle configuration up front. (the radio gear is velcroed to the hump in the middle) the front platform is a little shorter than the rear which is why I put the 3rd cell on top of the other 2. the front half of the battery I have velcroed on the bottom with the body set low enough to touch the top cell and keep it in place. the rear half is strapped in with the stock straps. it works well, but can't be readily used in any other vehicle. -Anthony