aconsola(2)

on the thundertech mounts, how do you get the screw to not turn so you can tighten down the nut? -Anthony

That's definately a nice truck, but I'm not so sure on the chassis,it doesn't look like the cz-1 pictured here in the old esp ad: http://www.clodparts.com/images/?file=/dis...ued/esp/esp.jpg It seems to be a sassy-chassis. -Anthony

Hi all, I'm looking for longer body mounts for a tlt-1. As tamiya has a habit of recycling, I'm sure there is something I can buy from another car that will get me a few ectra cm's in height, I just am not sure where to look. If anybody knows what other chassis shares the tlt's body mounts, or has a link to a parts tree with them, I'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance, -Anthony

The transmission is kinda noisy. it went away when I put a 64p spur and pinion in(not a great idea, but all I had in spares at the time). I have since switched to 32p gears now that I got my desired ratio picked out, and it is even noisier than stock. The center diff often spins. I tightened down the diff, and used traxxas friction pegs rather than diff balls(obviously no grease anywhere), and it still slips occasionally, but it is much better this way. -Anthony quote:Originally posted by nickseabHi there, Just finished my tlt and I have a few queries. 1. The transmission seems noisy - is this normal ? 2. When climbing an obstace and the truck gets stuck I can hear the motor going and the center diff going but the truck does not move, again is this normal and if so is this what locking the center diff prevents or have I just built the diff wrong ? Thanks in Advance, Nick. id="quote">id="quote">

check out these links for some more ideas on stick pack building. I've not tried them myself, as I haven't gottten around to purchasing the jig or hammerhead soldering tip, but it seems like a good system. only downside to doing direct soldering is there is no way to replace a bad cell or re-match a few packs, or discharge individual cells on a tray. www.logoheli.com/end2end.htm www.slkelectronics.com/battery/ -Anthony

Flipping the endbell exactly 180 does not reverse the motor properly on a timed motor. a 180 flip is no different than switchig +/- wires, if it were that easy there would be no need to sell a reversed motor. You have to turn the endbell 180+2 times the timing to properly reverse it.(or retard the timing by the same amount it was advanced, and switch the +/- leads) It makes more sense when you are looking at the motor with adjustable timing, but unortunately the mag meyhams are fixed timing, so you are stuck as there is no practical way to make it forward rotation. -Anthony quote:Originally posted by _Jimbobulon_hi, we're burning the midnight oil here! You have to flip the endbell 180 degrees, so that it is upside down. I am sure this is how you reverse the timing. What are you running the motors in? James id="quote">id="quote">

The CRP steering kit was nothing more than a kimbrough large servo saver, some 4-40 threaded rod, and dubro ball-ends. you can get these all at the LHS. nobody will know the difference once it's on the truck. (I won't tell if you don't) -Anthony quote:Originally posted by moser2020CRP steering kit for blackfoot CRP antenna kit for blackfoot CRP steering blocks for blackfoot CRP rear body mount kit for blackfoot CRP battery clip for blackfoot JG front and rear shock mounts for blackfoot and if anyone has a lighting kit for trucks with roll bar lights and head lights let me know moser2020@yahoo.com id="quote">id="quote">

I would ditch the switch alltogether.Get some 12ga silicone covered flexy wire and make up a y-harness to wire direct to the esc. the switch is a waste of energy, I don't know why anyone would actually run in "economy" it performs terribly. Replacing all those the thin stock wires and inefficient bullet and spade connectors with a single deans(or powerpole, or direct-wire)will get your clod moving optimally. for the y-harness i usually take 2 lengthes of wire long enough to connect the 2 motors together, and cut a ~5mm piece of insulation off the center of each(only halfway around the wire. then solder 2 shorter wires to each long one at the middle to form a "T" Put the connector at the end of the short piece, and solder one end of each long piece to each motor. -Anthony

Nice cars as usual Shodog. Being nylon, I expected them to fit snug like a regular nylon locknut. I use standard nylon nuts on the wheels for my pancars and have hit the weall at full speed, and never had a problem with them staying on. They look great for the show cars though. I was hoping to fit them on my lunchbox runner which I just put some chrome wheels on. -Anthony quote:Originally posted by ShodogI used them on my Porsche GT2 and Scratch built Beetle. They look killer but like you said they are a bit loose on the 5mm axles. I just glued in a small strip of plastic card to shim it up. I don't think I would ever run with them though as they are never as secure as a steel or aluminum lock nut id="quote">id="quote">

Hi all, Has anyone tried these RPM chromed nylon wheel nuts to dress up their RC? http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/sedan/hires/kos.htm It seemed like a good deal to me, $6 for 12(4 each of 3 designs) chromed wheel spinners in place of the boring locknuts. The problem I am having is that they are so loose they just push right onto the axles and don't actually secure the wheel enough to drive. They seem fine for detail on the shelf queen though. Anyone have any experience with these? Thanks, -Anthony

Hi, Does anyone know what wheels might fit the rear of the Blitzer? I know they use standard hex, but the axle is rather short. I tried using wheels for the traxxas stampede, and there is only a single thread left sticking out of the rim, not enough to even get the nut started. Other than getting some stock replacements, any Ideas? Thanks, -Anthony

it's spring cleaning time! Thanks for looking http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?View...userid=aconsola -Anthony

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?View...userid=aconsola Thanks for looking -Anthony

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?View...userid=aconsola Thanks for looking. -Anthony

That is a "gearcase strengthening kit" from Miracle speedway racing products. I've got a copy of the instructions and header card from the package if anyone wants a copy let me know. My showroom is inactive so I can't post it there. -Anthony

I've got one, a scan that is 4292x2000 pixels, but you have no email listed for me to send it to, -Anthony quote: Originally posted by jamesaevans Hi, I am building a 3D computer model of one of my favourite Tamiya cars, the Lunch Box and am looking a high quality/high resolution colour scan of the Lunch Box decal sheet to use as a texture map. Can anyone help me out? Thanks James id="quote">id="quote">

I remember reading somewhere, probably in an old RCCA, that the ideal storage would lift the car just enough to prevent flat spots while still keeping the suspention partially loaded. I seem to remember them claiming that allowing the suspension to just hang there would eventually warp the a-arms on some cars where the arm bottoms out before the shock is fully extended. IIRC they reccomended putting the chassis up on a block while putting foam under the wheels to prevent the flat spotting and allow some suspension loading. I wish my parents hadn't thrown out my old RCCA collection when I went to college, that was 9 years ago and I'm still a bit bitter. . . -Anthony

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?View...userid=aconsola Thanks for looking -Anthony

Thanks guys, it is a sweet body, I don't think it was ever available seperately. The reserve on the lb is nowhere near the BIN. I usually put an overly high buy it now. I figure it is a $.05 gamble that someone may see it and buy it on a whim. The reserve is reasonable, and is there mostly to keep the buy-it-now around for more than the first bid. -Anthony

I'm listing a bunch of parts from CRP and thorp, as well as 2 trucks: a very hopped-up monster beetle, and a Snap-on tools special edition tamiya lunchbox:http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?View...userid=aconsola Will ship outside the USA Thanks for looking, -Anthony

quote:Originally posted by ideal2kWhy don't you just realize that you are wrong here aconsola, people run a lot hotter motors than P2k2 in their TL01B's without any troubles at all. id="quote">id="quote">By the numbers my overgeared explanation is entirely plausable. I never said it is definately the problem, he may very well have a bad motor, I just wanted to point out that I have some basis for my explanation unlike your vague "people run a lot hotter motors " -Anthony

quote:Originally posted by ideal2kI dont mean to insult you.. but this is total BS. There's a reason for the speed tuned gear set - it gears even higher so you get higher speed. It is actually UNDERGEARED as standard, with the 19 tooth pinion, so there is absolutely NO way it could be overgearing that is causing this. Steed, don't listen to aconsola - that's all I can say. id="quote">id="quote">For the original problem described of poor performance and a hot motor there are 3 possibilities(regardless of the specific chassis series): 1)drag in drivetrain (ruled out already) 2)bad motor (swap in a new one to check) 3)Incorrect gear selection (not much you can do, if you ruled out 1, and 2 you are stuck) I personally didn't know the specifics of the TL-01B chassis until now, but a little research on tower reveals that with a 19t pinion the final drive ratio is 7.96. Coupling that with a tire outside diameter of approximately 3.2"(I don't have one to measure, but it looks to be a 2.2" buggy wheel) gives a rollout of 1.26" per revolution of the motor For comparison, my traxxas stampede(which is the only vehicle I have run a P2k2 motor in) with its larger tires would need a 20t pinion and 87 spur to achieve nearly the same rollout. I've tried the 20t in the 'pede and got the same symptoms described in the initial post. I normaly run a 15t pinion in the truck with this motor and it runs well with great top speed, good acceleration and reasonable heat and runtime. with a 13t pinion I can pop wheelies with ease, all of which tells me that you are likely overgeared for the p2k2 in an off-road vehicle. As for the speed tuned gear set, I'd say that it is for the tl-01 based vehicle only which has a smaller diameter tire and is not run off-road. While it would fit the TL-01B it would be way to overgeared to run on anything off-road other than a well-gromed track. Just my $.02 -Anthony

quote:Originally posted by wriggleandgiggleI don't know how much you know about gearing R/C cars but generally if you up the motor power/rpm you lower the gearing. Sounds strange but the motor won't make the RPM it needs to get 'in the power band' The problem with over gearing (too many teeth on the pinion) is that the car is always trying to acclerate, this just makes everything run hot and flattens your batteries quicker. Hope this helps id="quote">id="quote">That was exactly my point above, but a more thorough explanation. If 19t is the stock pinion with a silver can you definately need to go lower. Not being able to go lower showcases one of the limitations on many tamiya models which is very limited/fixed gearing options. -Anthony

I've got a hornet decal set, email me. -Anthony

Although the p2k2 is a 27t stock motor like the silver can, it has 24deg timing, and as such should have less torque and higher rpm than a 0timing motor. it would probably be wise to drop 2-3 teeth on the pinion and see how it goes then. -Anthony