aconsola(2)

That looks like a toy copy of a grasshopper. I know there was a clone that was RC, but this one is not Radio control, as it appears that the controller is wired directly to the car. Interesting that the Seller lists it as an RC and that the car looxs absolutely nothing like the one on the box from which the title comes. -Anthony

I would say quite the opposite. I've never seen an emaxx used for crawling. The most capable crawlers I've ever seen ware all clod-based. The majority of full size rock crawlers use solid axles(not all, but most), and the clod solid axle is just about bullet proof. I'd go with a clod myself. take a look over at www.rcmt.net at the forums for crawling. it may be a biased bunch, but most of them run txts clod, bruiser, and pajero based trucks, very few maxx trucks. -Anthony quote:Originally posted by Tamiya01478Hi Twinset, To be truthful neither of these chassis are brilliant rock crawlers, an e-maxx would be much more capable. If however you want to stick to Tamiya the TXT1 would be the better of the two. id="quote">id="quote">

The auction page states"I NEVER BUILD THE CHASSIS THAT CAME WITH THIS KIT NOR USED ANY OTHER PART THAT I RECEIVED IN THE BOX FROM JAPAN. OWNERS MANUAL AND DECAL IS ALSO INCLUDED. (I have already used some decals to build this body) AS I MENTIONED BEFORE IT IS ALMOST NEW IN BOX KIT. " Which to me implies that it inclueds the ta01 chassis, however, he never states that"the chassis that came with the kit is the one included in this sale" nor specifically what chassis is included, only that he never built the one that came with it, which is a sneaky thing to do. Another thing"EVERY THING INSIDE THE BOX IS STILL NEW AND NEVER BEEN USED STILL IN PLASTIC!" again, not stating that it is the correct chassis, only that it is new and never assembled. An accurate, but misleading statment. Technically it would seem as if the BMW 318i STW manual vs the pictured M3 manual is your only gripe, however ethically it is obvious that you were taken to the cleaners. How did you pay? -Anthony

I've got 3 words for you: M G D [8D] as soon as I saw that it was you who posted the topic I immediately thought "Miller time" Using the gold wheels, keeping some red in the scheme as snollan suggested, would make a perfect base for the MGD car. Just my $.02 -Anthony

What parts did you wind up using? Post a pic with the body off if you get the chance so we can see the guts of the project. Which wheels do you have? -Anthony quote:Originally posted by raydee48I'm almost done with my project, The "Monster Hornet" is posted in my showroom page. Let me know what you guys think. I bought some tamiya monster truck tires/rims, but they aren't compatible with the axles. Are there any specific conversion kits for this? Thanks in advance. id="quote">id="quote">

you linked to "my ebay" to show your auctions, when I click on your link it puts me into the items that I have for sale in my own "my ebay" since I am logged in already. here is a proper link to your auctions through the search page: http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcI...1&sort=3&rows=0 -Anthony

jacolouw, glad to hear you caught things in time, you'd be surprised how many patients come in to my clinic because they were forced to by their wife(who is usually right BTW). Prevention is key in medicine. Everyone should get a yearly physical, even if nothing is found wrong at the time there is usually some discussion of preventive strategies, and it will allow you to establish a baseline relationship while you are well, so that if you do need care for a condition you have someone that you know and trust already. For those that have insurance, not getting the yearly physical is silly as you are wasting your money by not taking advantage of services you already paid for. -Anthony

Disabling reverse has never been an issue for me, so I don't know the procedure. If it is necessary to have the switch(rather than just plugging the battey in while holding the button down), I'd solder in a micro switch and goop it to the esc case to keep things small and neat. -Anthony

My Jeep wrangler is on the auction blockhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=3145731276 Thanks for looking, -Anthony

ebay is your best bet. I'm not allowed to post links to live auctions, but there is a guy(whom I've bought from several times and highly reccomend) who constantly has CRP parts listed. He has 2 in particular that would benefit you. The first is a hornet truck mount kit, it include hornet specific front and rear mount bases. The second is the FX-10 to blackfoot kit.It is a complete conversion kit and it includes all the extra hardware and wheel mounts that are not included in the plastic-only hornet kit to put Truck tires and body on a hornet. -Anthony

I use a micro-ized futaba mc230. I opened the case de-soldered all the "big" wires, and soldered in the micro connectors which I harvested from the adapters that come in the micto kit. I cut off the switch (which is huge) with about 1cm of wire sticking out of the case. I then stripped 2mm off each end and soldered the wires together so it is always on. I did this rather than removing the wires altogether so I could see where they go in the circuit board if I want to return everything to stock. It is tiny, but I'm unsure of the weight comparison the the quantum/spy/ect. you can see pics in my showrom, the switch is almost as big as the esc itself, and the wires are huge compared to what is needed. the cost is about half the quantum, and $15 less than the spy(which cannot handle anything bigger than micro motors. If you are not going racing, it is a good choice, with brake and reverse, which can be converted back to use with 540 size motors quite easily. -Anthony http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...id=13554&id=362

Does anyone know if it would be possible to mate the rear of an m-04 with the front of an m-03 to make a 4wd dual-motor mini? the chassis channel looks similar, but I only have an 03 myself. Are the gear ratios the same within the two gearboxes? anybody done this already? Thanks, -Anthony

if using an MSC, just switch the motor leads, and if using an esc, re-do the setup, and you should be ok. For the steering, if turning the stick 180 or doing surgery on the servo are not viable options, you can pick up a hitec servo(the basic ones are like$11) which runs the opposite of a futaba servo. -Anthony

The MB came standard with bearings as well if memory serves(I've never seen a nib) so in summary: Body F/R Body mount Wheels(MB are gold plated) Tires(MB has spikes on tread lugs+differet tread pattern) Shocks(yellow oil filled on MB) Rear bumper/skid plate servo saver protector longer upper suspension pins in front Full bearings. Anything else? -Anthony

I dug out my spares and took some pictures and counted the teeth. Pics are in my showroom. The Stock tamiya blackfoot gearsinclude a 17x52t counter gear and a 48t diff gear. The thorp setup uses a 18/52t counter gear with a 47t diff gear. The second shot is a closeup of gear mesh w/mismatched gears. The stock diff gear fits snugly on the thorp diffspool making the comparison easy. the difference from stock is actually half of what is shown as one set is too big, and one too small, so it is likely that the mismatch will actually work without many problems. The paper with the thorp no-slip rear end(a diff spool) says that it must be used only with counter gears 4520, 5330, and 4646, does anyone have one of these gears to give a tooth count? Thanks, -Anthony http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...id=13197&id=362

The thorp counter gear and diff I have both have a different tooth count on them than do the stock gears. The diff and small half of the counter are only off by 1 from stock(IIRC), not sure why they did it that way. -Anthony

quote:Originally posted by spiff84hi I expecting two used 959s in parts sent from Canada. Cost £40 for 4 day express shipping, thought that was alot, but i wanted it quick. Now over 2 weeks after the guy said he sent it still no sign of them. id="quote">id="quote">I've been waiting almost 2 months for a set of short shafts for a blackfoot sent from canada via std mail from an ebay deal, seller says they were shipped june5, still no sign of 'em here in NY. I only paid a few$ so I'm not going to worry about it, maybe someone is filtering out all the RC stuff going across the border? -Anthony

I love it when this topic comes up, as I get to see so many cool cars I've never heard of from "the other side of the pond." I drive a '98 VW gti-vr6, I've had it since new, and love to drive it. My wife drives a '96 chevy tahoe, (which could probably fit a mini in the back if I fold down the seats)[] I hate driving the thing, so high up, handles like a boat, and such a waste of gas, but keeps my little baby safe. . . -Anthony

There is finally a futaba computer radio that is AM, 10 model memory, electronic adjustments, and compatable with all the receivers I already have. I Might have to get one of these when they come out: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...&I=LXENN3**&P=0 -Anthony

You could get a set of Thorp rear axles for the original BF, they have the standard dogbone setup and are long enough for BF wheels and the 5point adapter. Another option is to get ahold of some "special nuts." I have no Idea if they have an official name, but they are included in several CRP upgrade kits for fitting larger tires to various older vehicles. check my lunchbox page, second pic from the top for what I'm talking about. http://home.stny.rr.com/aconsola/lunchbox/ -Anthony

I had the same problem when I put a ball diff into my m-03 mini. The outdrives were slipping out of the diff half just enough that the splines did not catch, and only one wheel would get power(I had tightened the diff to the point that it barely slips at all because I thought it was just diff slippage. I wound up solving it by putting a new o-ring inside the outdrive, so that the dogbone was exerting enough inward pressure onto the outdrive to keep it in place. I suppose some blue loctite on properly degreased outdrives and diff halves would help the situation as well. Take a look at your outdrives, as mine were obviously starting to strip at the end. It would work intermittantly, until doing the above fix. -Anthony

all the speed gems have bearings, I have had several of the originals and the SG2, all are great value, last long and perform well. -Anthony

2 and 8 look like the wiper arms for 11, which I believe was from the fox 10,12 look like the kyosho speed control in my raider 5 apears to be a heavy duty kyosho msc found in many of their trucks. as for the rest, I haven't a clue. -Anthony

The M.M. motors have a lot of torque, and the can is a little longer, as they are 550 motors, not 540. They also use non-standard size brushes(square, I.I.R.C.), so you need to plan ahead for maintnence, as they may not be available locally. I use the sapphires in my clod, geared down with 11t pinions instead of 13, and they have plenty of torque, with decent top end. with the stock pinions, they still had enough power to get the truck up a curb, but the top end was too fast, it kept flipping over(probably a combo of my driving skills, and homemade chassis not being tuned that well.) -Anthony

sosidge, I haden't even considered that. I guess I gave decent instructions for setting a slipper clutch though [] Maybe that's why my stampede sounds funny from a standing start, both devices are likely slipping a little. So how does one isolate setting up a diff when a slipper clutch is present? I guess you could crank the clutch down as tight as it will go, set the diff as you outlined, and then set the slipper, but will this cause any damage to the slipper mechanism? -Anthony