aconsola(2)

From my old racing days(when my JR-x2 was the hot new thing), I learned this tip, similar to the one above. place the car with a fully charged pack on the ground ready to run. Put it between your feet and press inward on the back wheels(make sure you have shoes on). Hit the throttle full tilt, the front end of the car should pick up a little, you should hear the diff slip slightly, and then the motor should stall. If the diff keeps slipping, it is set too loose, no slip at all and it is too tight. Doing this repeatedly or for extended periods is hard on the motor, so be careful. The manual, iirc, said that on pavement, from a stop, hitting full throttle should make the diff slip for about 2 feet, anything more and you risk scoring the balls/rings, and melting the diff gear. -Anthony

while that is usually the case(ie p2k vs p2k-pro), with the speed gems series, it is an entirely updated motor. the pro series of speed gems has different winds fromt he regular series as well for example, the sapphire is a 17x1, while the closest pro is the amber at 17x2. the pros have the new p-94 style brushes and hoods, updated magnets, integrated capacitors, and a different selection of windings. -Anthony quote: Originally posted by raemin The pro version for trinity motors signifies that the comm was trued with a diamond bit, plus enhanced brushes : already "breaked in" and silver serated. Anyone may do it but trinity offers these enhancement for a couple of aditional $. id="quote">id="quote">

The problem here is that most tamiya cars have a gear diff, which in the real car world would be considered an "open diff," where indeed, spinning one wheel would cause the other to spin the opposite direction. When one wheel loses traction it gets all the power and spins, while the other stays put. The ball diff is more like a "limited slip" diff on a real car, especially as you tighten the diff screw more and more. when loose a ball diff is just like an open diff, the wheels spin opposite. when tight, roating the diff will spin both the same way as the force to drive both axles is less than the force needed to allow the diff rings to slip. then you are driving the car and the cars weight is on the wheels, going around turns, the force will(if you did not tighten the diff screw too tight) still allow the inner tire to spin slowerthan the outer. The advantage of the ball diff is adjustability, and smoothness. -Anthony

Yup, in most 2 motor trucks, one motor is forward rotation, the other is reverse. In the clod the REverse is in the REar, I'm not sure about the others though. You can wire up the fixed timing motors so that the truck will seem to operate normally, but you will lose performance if using fixed timing motors due to the retarded timing on the "reversed" motor. My suggestion for upgrading motors is to use trinity speed gems2 sapphire, a 17t single motor with adjustable timing. This motor has bearings, unlike the fixed timing motors which are all bushinged, and is about the same price and performance(when set to 0timing) as a good (ie: p2kpro) stock motor. If you are going with the super rooster/F1-pro, you may as well get the mod motor right off, as the need for speed will set in and you'll wind up getting them later anyways. . . Set the timing to 0 for both to get used to the speed, then increase it a little as you see fit. Be warned though that running in reverse with a timed motor is a double edged sword: 1, the current draw will be higher due to inefficient retarded timing on both motors, and 2 the reverse circuit of most speedos are less capable than the forward circuitto begin with, both adding up to increase esc heat dramatically if reverse is used for more than a few seconds at a time. -Anthony quote:Originally posted by OblivionThanks. Iv'e also heard that on a two motor truck like the Dagger, you have to have one motor in forward rotation, and one in reverse. But surely, if you do this then if you are driving forwards for example, then the two motors would be going against each other? id="quote">id="quote">

I used my standard rooster(something like15t single motor limit), with two stock silver cans in my clod with no problems. The rule of thumb is that when running two motors in parallel you cut the number of turns in half to get the effective current, so the two 27t motors in parallel is about the same as a 14-15trn motor, so choose an esc accordingly, of course if you plan on upgrading motors at all, you'd be best off getting the super rooster now. -Anthony

I think now that it is not so much that the blitzer is very flexy, but that the MB shell I have is really brittle. I ran it today(see my showroom for the damage), and after flipping end over a couple times, the whole rear end split open. I abused my Clod much worse than this with the hard body on it, and haven't had any cracks, I think that the age of the plastic with a couple rounds of stripping and refinishing are what caused this to happen. It of course had nothing to do with my driving skills. . . -Anthony

Hi all, I was just about to bid on an auction when I read this line:" Payment must be recieved within 10 days of the end of the auction or buyer will forfit payment in transit." to me that means if I take a couple days to get out payment, and the post office is a little slow, I could potentially lose my cash, and not get the item. I know it's a pain to have a non-paying bidder, but you can get the final fee refunded, and listing fees generally pale in comparison the the ending price of an item. Is this legal? -Anthony

Well, with all those new CRP hop-ups, I just couldn't resist. I took it out for a little bashing. I was quite dissapointed as it was really dogging it with the with the stock silver can motor and msc. I was just going to put it back on the shelf when something came over me. . . I tore(well, gently unscrewed) out the msc, and slapped down a piece of industrial velcro, and in went the super rooster from the clod. Then I took the trinity Midnight2pro motor(upgraded with bearings) out of the lunchbox, switched around the pinions/adapter plate, charged up a fresh pack and was ready to go. This thing realy hauls compared to the stock setup. Had to make a pitstop to adjust the diff which would slip if I was not really light on the throttle(who wants to be light on the throttle?). After that it ran well, until I snaped the stock servo save in half. Back in to the workbench, slapped on a Large white kimbrough Saver(a la CRP upgraded steering kit, Just have to get the 4-40 ball ends and threaded rod to complete the look), and I was back out in a flash. I don't know ehy I bothered to rebuild the front shocks when building up the truck. The stock springs and front suspension mechanism are so stiff I may as well have put tierods in place of the shocks. It was a great run, I only flipped once, of course taking a good amount of paint off as it slid a little. Has anyone got any tips for the suspension? -Anthony

You need two different parts to mount the 1627 front shock tower suport. First is the #1624 Rear body mount support, which itself requires the use of the #1622 rear shock towers. The rear shock towers have a third hole(it's just above the shock mounting point) for the #1624 rear body support to mount to. Check out my showroom, http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...id=11264&id=362 For my CRP Monster beetle for pictures that should explain what I'm saying. I got most of the stuff off ebay, The same guy selling lots of the front shock tower supports also had some of the #1624's up for auction. Do you have anything for trade? I may have some extra parts. Also check out this link http://www.rcchopshop.com/crpparts.html which has a good catalog of CRP parts. -Anthony

No I'm not looking to rehash the difference between the MB and BB shells, although If anyone has a link to the post with the comparison pics I'd appreciate it(I can't tell the differences side by side). I just got a BB yesterday, and the body seems to be different in its plastic composition. The BB shell seems to be more flexable, almost like the "rubberized" plastic that tamiya uses in many of its suspension parts trees. Maybe it's just that my MB shell is old and brittle, but the BB shell just seems real soft. Along with that is another question: to paint or not to paint? Assuming I am not crazy and the body is a bit more flexy and forgiving in crashes, what effect does this have on paint sticking to the bending plasic? I'd like to paint it black as paint would have a much higher shine than the plain black plastic, but I don't wan to deal with flaking. Thanks, -Anthony

if you look real close at the new manual you can see that the lines in the drawings for the front grill do not line up exactly with each other at the points where the chevy logo should be, and same thing with some of the pics of the other logos, the manual pic looks altered. -Anthony

check out the forums at http://www.terracrusher.net Lots of useful info on the various .21 options, including instructions on how to modify the stock chassis to accept the .21, which will save you a bunch of cash. -Anthony

I ran my clod with dual silver cans, 7c battery and a rooster with no heat issues(I atually did one wun with dual 17t sapphires and 6cells before getting the super rooster, lots of heat, but not enough to do a thermal shut down) Some things to look at: 1) Make sure that there is no drag in the drivetrain, I assume you have bearings, but if not, get them. make sure everything spins smothly with the motors out and the wheels off(the large tires give you lots of leverage and can make a high drag geabox seem smooth) 2)Next is to get your wiring in order. Ditch the stock bullet connectors and thin wires and make a Y shaped harness with some heavy guage wire and use a good connector(like deans or powerpoles) to mimize resistance and power loss/waste. 3) The motors themselves should be cleaned with a good motor spray to get the gunk out. Don't forget to re-oil the bushings. Apply power to each motor separately, and listen for the sound, they should both be similar, if one sparks a lot at the commutator, or sounds like it is not spinning nearly as fastit may be faulty.( basically any signifigant sound difference could be a motor problem, as both started out the same), -Anthony

yet another ebay chuckle, just an excerpt as ther are no links to live auctions: "THORP REAR END with idodized hubs" -Anthony

along the same lines, does tamiya sell a parts pack that is just an assortment of standard type body mounts, or does one have to hunt down the full suspension parts bag to get a single pair of mounts? I'm looking to get some for an FF-01 Thanks, -Anthony

quote:Originally posted by robysoldtamiyaFF01 and FF02 are the same chassis. They only have different wheelbase. Roby id="quote">id="quote">I think If I flip the rear arms around, and cut down the shock mount on the shock tower, I can get everything aligned properly with the correct wheelbase. I thought that the ff01 and FF02 were completely different, the 02 being similar to the M03s tube-like chassis, and the ff-01 being based on a tub from the ta series. Did you mean TA01 and TA02? Thanks, -Anthony

Hello all, I just got a fiberglass chassis in an Ebay deal. The chassis looks like it should be for the FF-02 series cars(The ebay item was for a complete Tamiya Golf v-5, with this chassis and some spare parts), as all the holes seem to line up. When I swap the suspension components off the tub chassis and onto the plate, the wheelbase comes out to 277mm instead of the Std. 257. Everything else, belcranks, servo mount, ect, line up perfectly with the stock tub chassis, it is just 20mm too long. Does anyone know what car this chassis might be for? Pics are up, If anyone can help, I'd appreciate it. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=9982&id=362 Thanks, -Anthony

The general rule of thumb I've heard is that when using 2 motors in parallel you cut the number of turns in half to get the effective load on the esc. so 27/2 is approx 14turn motor equivalent, and an esc with a 19 limit is living on the edge, I'd make sure to use a fan, or at least have it in a place with good airflow. -Anthony

Shodog, Thanks for the confirmation, I think I'll pick up the parts and add it to the truck. I'm actually not looking for the dogbones or rear bumper, as I have a thorp setup, and The monster beetle has its own rear skid/bumper which the BF did not. Does anyone have pics of the Kydex bumper? I have a JG bumper that I may switch over from my lunchbox, does the CRP one look anything like the JG? TamiyaBeaterFleet, your truck has the CRP rear shock towers, which are installed upside down in an odd location. Thanks, -Anthony

Hi all, I am trying to build up a full-CRP Monster beetle, and want to make sure I have a complete list of parts, here is what I have so far: rear hubs front steering blocks, rear shock tower, rear body mount, front shock tower support, rear suspension supports. Dyeable wheels Pinspike tires Battery door clip front chassis stiffiner Yellow foam motor cover/filter adjustable motor mount Other parts I don't yet have: #1608 diff bearing support, #1624 rear body mount support #?brass-insert front arms. #?heavy duty steering kit, from the pictures it looks suspiciously like a kimbrough large servo saver packaged with dubro ball ends, and 4-40 rods, can anyone confirm, maybe I can cheat and buy them separately #?rear dogbones #? rear bumper does anyone know of any other CRP parts for this chassis series? I am also trying to figure out what the extra tab on the bottom of the red rear suspension supports is for, I suspect it may be for a rear swaybar, but have never seen a pic of them used. Thanks, -Anthony

Terracrusher is top right now, but I also run the clod and lunchbox quite a bit. Overall, I think I've run more packs through a lucnhbox than any other vehicle over the years. -Anthony

I give 2 thumbs up to Marvel mystery oil. I use it as after-run in my terra crusher, as well as for winterizing my lawn equiptment, and "summerizing" my snow-thrower -Anthony

I know this is the tamiya forum and all, and I love my tamiyas, but if you really want a good runner electric truck, I'd suggest looking at the Stampede from traxxas. The kit is less expensive than any tamiya truck, and it includes a slipper clutch, bearings for the transmission, and oil-filled shocks. There are a host of upgrades for it, and they are quite sturdy.The body leaves something to be desired, but if you run it a lot, no body will look good for long. Just a thought, -Anthony

MB wheels are 2.2" -Anthony

There are a few things you can go 1) gear higher: put an 18t pinion on without the adapter. This will give yuo better top end, and cut down on the low-end power. Will still wheelie a bit as the 540's have plenty of torque. 2) use an ESC. The more gentle application of throttle that is possible with one will prevent wheelies by giving better control. 3)move weight forward. I put the receiver up front in the little space in front of the stering servo.I have my esc mounted to a plate fabricated out of spare lexan that is just behind the steering servo, so all radio gear is concentrated up front. 4) beef up the wheelie bar. I don't like the upside down wheelie bar as it comes in contact with the ground when going over obstacles. Isntead I put bigger wheels on it. Parma used to make a kit for this whicch included 2 slot-car foam wheels/tires, but I riggged up a similar system using an old front axle and a pair of tamtech rear tires/wheels. -Anthony