aconsola(2)

here is the list for bag A 9465188 Includes: 16ea 3x6mm screws 10ea 3x10mm screws 22ea 3x12mm screws 14ea 3x15mm screws 14ea 3x20mm screws 8ea 3x30mm screws -Anthony

I was getting all set to put the above link in, and then I scrolled down further to see it was given! I can post pictures of the installed extenders if you like. You can also make your own. I made some by taking some aluminum(approx 1.5x2x1/16") plates with holes spaced the requisite 15mm apart, and used some old ushings behind the plate to fill in the space on the rear. You have to use machine screws with locknuts this way. It looked quite low-budget, but worked just as well. Good luck, -Anthony

from what I can see, your best bet for self tapping hardware is to pick up a clodbuster screw bag b, part#9465189 which has: 38 3X8mm self tapping screws 43 3X12mm self tapping screws 54 3mm flanged nuts all for $5.50, which comes out to $.04 per piece, which is on par with what you'd pay for hardware in bulk. The clod Bag A,part # 9465188, Has a nice assortment of machine threaded screws for under $5 -Anthony

all of this sellers auctions have rediculously high shipping charges with very cheap buy it now prices. Classic Ebay fee circumvention, which has been appropriatley reported(not that ebay will do anything about it!) -Anthony

Hi, I just picked up a nice Monster beetle with Ball diff and matching counter gear. How do I tell if this is the Thorp setup or robinson racing? I have a nip thorp 48p gear adapter which I figured I could use with this setup, but the Ball diff uses a 32p gear, same as stock. Does anyone know what size the diff gear would have to be in 48p to work with this adapter? Thanks, -Anthony

sounds like fun! On the hopped-up car I would have done the carbon-look thing on the hood(like lots of the high-tech 1-1 cars) and left the rest of the body clear except for applying stickers. For the basic car I would use the Lexus IS200 as you suggested, leaving it totally clear with the exception of the stickers. This would give good contrast between the high tech and lowtech cars, and would allow you to see the different chassis without taking the bodies off, would probably make a nice display. -Anthony

Buy a clodbuster and take a look at the posts at http://www.rcmt.net/ before you build it, you'll get over your box-stock obsession really quick. . . -Anthony quote:Originally posted by TamiyamandanI have Gone Tamiya Mad...I went from 3 smashed up cars(That I restored) to 13 cars/trucks in 3 months...I also have a Mudblaster, Midnight pumpkin NIB, Hummer NIB, on the way....I bought a Blackfoot yesterday off of a friend at work for $50..Soon to be restored. I look for parts to finish my projects every day, I can't stop!!!!! a windshield here, a headlight lense there..You get the picture...I wish I had people in my area like you guys in the UK...many of you have been a great help and answered my questions (No matter how stupid) I really enjoy looking at the new listed area to see the great finds people get...Anyway here goes...What do you think about keeping a model completely stock?? I have seen some very nice alterations while brousing the club...I especially like the Blitzer Beetle painted like the sand scorcher with the fat proline tires....It looks so much better than the stock black with the splash on the front version on the box....My dilema is I feel compelled to keep a car exact....But when I see some of the great Ideas Many of the club members have I am torn...So what would most of you do if you got a new in the box Blitzer Beetle....Make an awsome Sand scorcher replica or paint it black and put on the decals....Just wondering??? And thanks to everyone for all your help...Tamiyamandan id="quote">id="quote">

you are paying to be put into one of those matrix things, where you pay a certain amount to get put on a list, and when a certain number of people pay into it below you, you get the item. It's the latest incarnation of the good ol' pyramid scheme. -Anthony quote:Originally posted by djcrossieIve just worked it out. Your bidding on a pre paid position in a promotion for that item quote:JUST SO THERE IS NO MISUNDERSTANDING, PLEASE REMEMBER YOU ARE BIDDING ON A PREPAID POSITION IN A PROMOTION FOR THE ITEM DESCRIBED IN THIS AD, NOT ON THE ACTUAL ITEM ITSELF, AND THEREFORE IT WILL NOT SHIP IMMEDIATLY. id="quote">id="quote">In ENGLISH PLEASE !!! So its $880 just for a position in a promotion? id="quote">id="quote">

I use the RIT brand cloting dyes with good results. Boil some water in a suitable size container(Note: we do not want to test out how stainless stainless steel really is with the wife's good stuff!), throw in a small amount of dye, and a pinch of salt(really! It is supposed to help strengthen the nylon from what I've read) and put in the wheels. I usually shut off the heat source(remove pot from burner if electric to eliminate hot spots that melt plasticc, but if you elevate the parts off the bottom you can continue to boil them for a while. And then wait for the water to cool off, checking color depth every once in a while. The easy way to do wheels it so unbend a coat hanger, put the wheels all on the upper wire, and then re connect the ends, this way you get all in and out of the water at once, keeping color consistent, also helps cut down the mess from splashing when dropping wheels in one at a time. This can be used to elevate the wheels off the bottom surface for more extended boiling. You'd be surprised how little dye it takes to make the parts too dark, so only use small amounts, you can always add more. Also make sure you wheels are definately dyeable nylon, not white plastic, as white plastic will not accept dye, and will likely melt easier. -Anthony

red/black generally is battery and red/blue motor. Also, in general you put the male plug on the power supply side so that you can test the esc with the motor disconnected and not have to worry about shorting out the leads from exposed pins. This also puts Female on the battery itself which will prevent a short across the exposed leads which could occur on a male plug. That esc must be a forward only, as the positive on the battery is going directly to the motor, a so-called 3-wire setup, supposed to give more power because of shorter overall wire length. Hope I helped, -Anthony

Thanks for the info, So where does 48p metric fit into the mix? -Anthony quote:Originally posted by WillyChangActually... 32dp isn't "metric"... [:I] Its calculated using imperial (inch) standards, thus it too is imperial imho. Tamiya's 0.4 and 0.6 "module" is metric. A 1.0 module gear has a tooth of width 1mm. 0.6m pinions are also called "AV" pinions. Metric and DP gears should not be interchanged if you want proper gear meshing. 0.4m & 64dp can sometimes be swapped but this increases friction & wear (and the teeth are tiny enough as it is already). Swapping 0.6m & 48dp will give always disastrous results. id="quote">id="quote">

My question about all of this is what do we do with all of them long term? It is wonderful to have such things. I was just looking through my Diecast VW collection, which is now all in one place(had some stashed in different family members houses until now, as I finally bought a house) and came to think, it's a great feeling to have all of them (several hundred vw's), but what am I going to do with them now that I have them? The collection will continue to grow I'm sure, as I compulsively look for new VW toys, but eventually I'm going to pass on. I would think that the large collection would be more of a pain for the family to deal with, knowing I liked it so much would make it hard to sell, but what would they want with a large toy collection if they had not been into collecting it with me all these years. Kinda morbid, I know, especially being as I am only 27, but just some food for thought. Once money is not such an issue, I plan on getting all Tamiya VW's, for now I am content With just a monster beetle! -Anthony

Not necessarily directed at you Jimmy_GT-R, but I think some sort of faq is in order to avoid general confusion that gear pitch seems to cause. What are .4 and .6? how does that compare to 32,48,64 and the metric 48 that are common in the US? Which tamiya models use which pitch? Anybody up to the task? I'd do it but I have very little idea as to the answers to the above, especially the .4/.6 gears as I have never used them. -Anthony quote:Originally posted by Jimmy_GT-RWell as much as I'd like to prove your theory, all my electric cars run on 0.4 or 0.6 pitch gears and pinions. But I shall take your word for it. All I meant was that the gears on modelsport site were metric 32DP. And in their catalogue it says that 32DP=32 Depth Pitch. These are not my facts just what the shop told me. I am not one to argue. Thanx Jimbo id="quote">id="quote">

Pitch is measured by how many teeth fit into a gear of given diameter, not by the size of the tooth itself. Measure one out and prove it to yourself. Take a std 32p gear, measure the number of teeth and divide by 32. that is the diameter of the gear in inches halfway up the gears teeth. Ideal2k implied that the clod and jug use 32p metric pinions, but I know for a fact they use std 32p pinions, as I am in the us and I buy off the rack standard pinions which mesh perfectly on my clod, lunchbox, monster beetle, which is why I doubted the 32p metric thing. -Anthony quote:Originally posted by Jimmy_GT-R32 DP stands for Depth Pitch. Meaning how large the teeth are, and as its a UK site, as I live in the Uk it will be metric sizes. Also 32 DP doesn't mean the diameter as they have pinions in 32DP ranging from 9T upto 25T. Thanx Jimbo id="quote">id="quote">

Those arent metric, they are just 32 pitch pinions, at least it does not say metric anywhere on the page. 32 dp=diameter pitch, a gear with a diameter of 1 inch has 32 teeth a 16t pinion would have diameter of 1/2" ect. -Anthony

I have never heard of 32p metric. I use standard 32p pinions in my clod and lunchbox series with no problems. -Anthony

I'm looking for a monster beetle(pref) or blackfoot that is in decent runable shape. I have a partial chassis at the moment, but it needs so many parts I figure it would be easier to buy a complete one and use mine for spares. I don't need a body, or body mounts. I don't realy need a full wheelset either, just a complete rolling chassis. I'm in the US. Thanks, -Anthony

Hi, you have to be more specific. Doesn't turn right as in makes left turns fine, or as in doesn't turn correctly in any direction? What setup ae you using? Totally stock clod? if you are using the stock central steering servo mounting position you will definately need a high torque servo. a standard futaba 3003 or hitec 300 ect. will not do much for you. Next thing to do is to use one of the large servo horns that came with the servo, this way you can place the balls further from the center so you get more linear throw for a given rotation, this turning the wheels further. of course this devreases your mechanical advantage, which is why it is so vital to have a high torque servo. go to http://www.mattsrcstuff.com/ and click on " stock clod steering fix" on the left to see an illustration of what I'm talking about. His site also has lots of other clod hints and tips. -Anthony

Replies within, Originally posted by njmlondon I am thinking about getting a Tamtech and have a few qestions... 1) am i right in thinking that every Tamtech comes on the same chassis? Nope, there are 2 different wheelbase chassis. I think the earlier onew were one and the later ones longer, but I'm not sure of the specifics 2) could I buy the car and a CPR unit and use it with my current Adspec transmitter? as long as you are on the same band, sure, I use my old futaba magnum junior with mne, the CPR units are made by futaba. 3) can you buy spare tires etc easily? THey pop up on ebay frequently, or you can usually use tires from other cars such as ABC, Kawada ect. 4) is there anything else I should bear in mind? if you just want a runner to drive, there are similar sized 1/24 scale cars that are current production that would be cheaper, have more readily available parts, and which have vital options like a ball diff, which may be a better choice. Thanks No problem, -Anthony

Hi all, Can anyone tell me what size tires are included in this kit? Are they standard touring car size? There are a bunch of these for sale over at ebay for what seems like a very cheap price, given the cost of 4 tamiya tires/wheels/inserts separately. Seems like this would be perfect for a "basher" type car if the size is close. Thanks, -Anthony

That auction is for a stock clodbuster rollbar. The blackfoot and MP rollbars are the same physical dimensions, but without the chrome plating. I dug out my spare NIP blackfoot/mp rollbar to compare side by side with the one mounted on my clod, and they are the same. Take a look at the online instructions to see that each kit does something different with the basic bar. The clod puts a second vertical bar up front and a 5-light lightbar, while the pumpkin has 3 lights directly attached to the rollbar(no lightbar) They are interchangeable, but as far as I know the accessories for the clod rollbar are only available in chrome, so it would look kinda funny with a black base, however teh MP which came in black would look better(IMHO)with chrome. -Anthony

Hi, There is a ball diff used on the abc hobby 1/24 scale DTM-sp car that would likely work on the tamtech if you also used the ABC Wheels/tires. I suppose that by the time your done messing with figuting out which parts yuo need(the diff set itself is $30, wheels/tires $10, and you'll likely need a left-side hub as well) you'd be better off geting the whole kit with a fresh motor. http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/d...p?prod=ABC62500 you can click on the "abc hobby" near the top of the page to get a categorized list of their products. most of the car listings are for the 1/24 scale, they have a 2wd, and a 4wd 1/24 racer! -Anthony

Stock motors (27turns) all have fixed timing. Timing on modified motors is set by losening the screws that hold the endbell on and rotating the endbell on the can. both the can and the endbell have some sort of notch/indentation on the side. 0 timing is when they line up with each other. some motors have timing marks printed on the sticker to make adjustments simpler, but don't take them as absolute(only relative) as the sticker may not be lined up exactly at 0. Take a look at this picture of a speed gems sapphire(my motor of choice for the clod) notice the indentation in the can above the "E", and how it is lined up with the pointer on the endbell. this series of motors has hash marks molded into the endblee for timing refrence although I have no Idea how many degrees each mark is, This motor, as mine, are set to 0. If you do get thes motors, or any other, verify the timing for yourself. Everyone seems to believe that these come from the factory at 0 timing, but I have had 4 of them, and not one came at0, most were at about one notch out. Most motors with fixed timing, even if they have removeable endbells for maintnence purposes, have an endbell or can that is flat at 2 spots so rotating the endbell is not an option, it only fits on one way. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJX15&P=7 -Anthony

I would browse over to http://www.rcmt.net/ There are way too many possible answers to your upgrade questions about the clod to cover them all here, but that site has a ton of folks who have some pretty wild clods. you can do just about anything to a clod, from the simple ESP chassis brace(which I highly reccomend if you are sticking with the stock plastic chassis) to full-aluminum aftermarket trucks with virtually no tamiya parts whatsoever remaining. it all depends on what you want: racing, bashing, scale looks, rock crawling ect. as for the motors, you have to replace them in matched pairs. Using a modified motor is best, as you can set the timing to 0 so fwd/rev is not an issue. there are some motors that are/were available in both rotations. most start out with the trinity speed gems sapphirre 17t motors with timing set to 0. If you are going to stick with the stock motors, just about any decent ESC will handle dual stockers(stock motors are 27 turns, 2 in parallel gives a net load equal to about a 14t motor I ran mine for a long time with a novak rooster with no problems). Wire them up in parallel and get rid of 1)the MSC, 2)the power/economy switch, and 3)the crappy stock wires and bullet connectors, and replace with some high quality 12-14G wire and you will have a noticeable difference in performance. if you go with a mod motor the novak super rooster, and LRP F-1 pro reverse seem to be the ESC of choice. I currently have dual sapphires with a super rooster and with a 7c battery, this truck is fairly quick. -Anthony