aconsola(2)
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Posts posted by aconsola(2)
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I got my items yesterday, exactly as described. Many of them had price tags from the above mentioned shop(which the seller claims he has no connection to). The box was mailed without a return address, and was mailed from my own town(30 miles east of his shop)
The shop owner does live in my town though, further evidence that this may actually be the same person.
His emails are rather poor in the literacy department and he is defensive. I emailed him to say thanks and joked that he went 30 miles out of his way to go to the post office, he could have gone 3 more and hand delivered it and saved $6 and his reply was:
"and yeah save a few bucks but could have lost all the money if you filed for paypal.com report saying you never got it...."
so he knows what he is doing.
Good luck to all,
-Anthony
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Thanks for the info.
I'm not looking to build this up, so if anybody wants some parts email me.
-Anthony
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Hi all,
I just got a load of old mostly used parts, and I have no Idea what many of them are for.
They all have a part number on them which looks like "BAJ-XX" where xx is a number.
there is a transmission , rear swing arms that look similar to a frog, and a bunch of front suspension pieces. I should have pix availaber later or tomorrow.
Does anyone know what manufacturer or car this is ikely to be?
Thanks,
-Anthony
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This guy is relatively local to me, about 40 minutes away.
There is a hole in the wall shop in that town, which I think he runs. I emailed the seller Jim is talking about, asking if I could pick the items up at his shop, and then had several email back and forth basically claiming he knows of the shop but is not the same seller as the shop owner. I have been at the little shop, and many of the ebay auctions show the items on the shelves at that shop.
I think they are one and the same as the level of literacy/grammar found in both of their emails is about the same.
Today I tried bidding on an auction only to find out that I have been blocked.I did email him once again to find out why I am blocked, we'll see.
Edit: He responded rather quickly and unblocked me. I did a buy it now, for $19 total shipped, Curiosity got the best of me, I've wasted $20 on stupider things in the past, let's see what happens.
-Anthony
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It looks like the possible scammer didn't take the time to downlaod the stolen pics, but linked directly to the original source(stealing the owners bandwith as well), the original seller simply changes the contents of the pictures the scammer links to, replacing nice product images with the "scam" text. Sweet idea!
the seller linked above, ndfuwww has a feedback of 12, all 12 of the members who left him + feedback, also have feedback ratings of exactly 12, all the auctions in the sellers feedback are blank, lots of ??? for title and description in them, seems like a big-time scam, with multiple fake accounts set up to build up feedback to make the seller look legit.
-Anthony
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Hi all,
I have only ever used pactra spray for my lexan bodies, but ordered some blue and yellow tamiya spray paint for a TLT I'm buiilding. I usually back colors with white or silver before painting the next color, but forgot to get some from the tamiya line.
Can I safely back the 2 tamiya colors with pactra paint, or am I likely to have problems combining the 2?
Thanks,
-Anthony
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I only use mobil one synthetic in my vw. . . .
Anyone notice that no matter what your hobby there is always a topic of debate which is incessantly rehashed and never seems to be settled?
You should of course do whichever feels right for you, after all it's al about personal enjoyment, and not about what everyone else thinks you should do.
To answer your question directly, I say build, that's what I would do, because I love building rc's. That's what got me started in the hobby, and is still my favorite part.
-Anthony
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Jim,
I asked here:
http://p197.ezboard.com/fthebeetlemodelmus...icID=1019.topic
And none of them have ever seen it before, and those folks have some huge VW toy collections.
Do you actualy have this in your posession or are you trying to find one?
If you've got it, how about some more pictures?
Thanks,
-Anthony
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I've been collecting the cox baja bugs since the mid 90's, I've bought and sold many on ebay, I had one in yellow, a couple in orange and had several chassis and wheel variations over the years, But I have never even heard of that one.
Where did the picture come from?
I used to subscribe to a print newsletter called "gas toy collector" that had lots of info on them
Gas Toy Collector's Association, P.O. Box 440818, Houston, Texas 77244
I can't find a web address of phone #
I suppose another option for getting some attention would be to list it on ebay with a rediculously high reserve asking collectors with more info to email you and see what kind of emails with info you can get.
-Anthony
quote:Originally posted by Voltar
id="quote">id="quote">Hi All. Does anyone have any info on this car? It is a COX Special Edition gas Baja Bug from the late 60s or early 70s. It is "gold" plated. As I was told, it was never available for sale to anyone. It was presented to either hobby shops or distributors as a prize for outstanding sales. I have had many and seen many of the old Cox nitro bugs but never this one. I called Cox, and since the company has been bought and sold a few times, nobody knows anything about it. Here is a pic. Thanks......Jim
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The best I have found for degreasing and preparing for rebuild is(low odor) mineral spirits. This is what we used in the auto shop I worked at when I was younger. it can be found in the paint section of any home store, used as oil-based paint thinner and brush cleaner
for RC here is what I do:
Take 2 old jars (applesauce, pasta sauce; that size)
put a couple inches of mineral spirits in the first jar and put all the parts in, I have not had it attack any plastic yet(but don't throw a bunch of expensive stuff in there before testing just to be sure),
I recently put my entire dissassembled rc10Gt transmission in there, case and all (except for the slipper and brake disks as they will absorb any liquid) put the cap on the jar and shake it around a little.
clean your workspace and shake the jar a little more. Clean the dirt off your tools and shake the jar a little more, you get the idea.
I bought a small metal strainer at walmart for like $4. put the strainer on top of the second jar and pour the parts into it.
Spread the parts out onto a paper towel and dry them off.
If your bearings are still gritty, repeat the process with fresh mineral spirits.
If you let the jar with the dirty fluid sit undisturbed overnight, the dirt particles will settle out, and you can pour off the clean fluid back into the first container to recycle. dispose of the used stuff accordingly. a gallon container costs like $10 and will last a long time if you are careful and recycle.
I've been doing my parts like this for a couple of years and have not had any problems with it. I have left metal and plastic parts(a complete original 6-gear rc10 transmission) in the jar for over a week with no problems, and no discoloration.
Some of the chemical cleaners can discolor bare aluminum if left on too long, but not this stuff.
Of course, some common sense is in order, don't leave these jars of clear liquid unlableld or where thirsty kids could reach them.
-Anthony
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I've got a set of those. I tried them out on a lunchbox(with a lexan shell) but it did not steer to well. I was a ton of fun.
I should dig them out to try this winter on the hornet rerelease.
-Anthony
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I'm looking to paint up a bolink lexan scorcher replacement shell in a ladybug theme for my 2.5yr old daughter. It will be going on top of a blitzer beetle chassis
Does anyone have any pictures of such a paintjob? rc, diecast, plastic or 1:1, any would be great
My artistic/creative talents are generally on par with my daughters, [
] but I can do a decent job if I have something to follow.Thanks for the help,
-Anhtony
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I've got a brand new sticker set for tha bandido if you ever find one to fix-up, or if anyone else needs it. I originally picked them up to use the cox logos on something else, but never cut them. After seeing a bandido in this thread I don't think I'll be getting one any time soon.
-Anthony
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I was 13 ish and had just gotten my losi jrx-2 assembled and painted.(can somebody tell me what year the original jrx-2 came out?)
I was able to run circles around my friends fox and another guys frog, so I was feelin' pretty good whan I went to the local off-road track. It was a small course built in the backyard of some church where a bunch of folks would get together and work on the track and then race on it with someone manually counting laps.
I was pretty fast with the losi in the straights, but being 13 was not much of a driver in the turns.
When it came time to race there was Some "old" guy with a grasshopper.
I beat him to the first turn, crashed into the wall in the second turn and never caught him agian. He drove his GH right down the middle of the track through every turn, while my overpowered car crashed into the outside of every turn trying to catch up with him.
I think he wound up lapping me with that GH (with a mechanical speed controller).
So much for the latest and greatest!
[V]
Unfortunately even now that I am the "old" guy at the track I still can't drive and get beat by all the teens
-Anthony
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Hi all,
These hubs were mounted to a lunchbox I bought off ebay.
They fit the axles well, and have a roll-pin that sticks up from the face of the hub, which fits Between 2 of the pins on the back of the rear lunchbox wheels.
It is a silly design, (they could have just made 5 holes of the proper size to fit the stubs on the wheel), which makes me wonder if they are really meant to go on a different vehicle.
Does anyone know anything about these?
Thanks,
-Anthony
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The third image is the proper reversal with timing.
the middle image has the timing set as retarded for forward rotation as you have not switched polarity, only moved the timing.
Another way to think of it is mirror images. Put the endbells up to each other end on end, and they should mirror each other in terms of timing and polarity, images one and 3 do this.
-Anthony
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Hi all,
Are there any currently available kits which have the older style yellow oil filled shocks?
Is there a difference between the kit oil shocks and the cva dampers sold as hop-ups?
I'm looking to get a set of tamiya oil shocks for the lunchbox, but if I can get a set of yellow ones and then have the rest of a car left over to play with that would be great, I've got plenty of other shocks to retrofit to the kit.
Thanks,
-Anthony
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Inspired by a post in another forum asking how to slow down an rc for a 3 year old:
what vehicles does everyone use for their little ones to play around with?
My daughter is 2.5yrs old and she loves driving her bus!
This is a (*gasp*) traxxas stampede that has been highly modified over the years and is now just about kid proof. It sports lots of rpm upgrades including the wide front bumper. the homemade wheelie bar and a low-geared trinity sapphire motor will allow it to do wheelies for about 50 feet(always a favorite among kids of all ages).
Topping it off is the parma school bus t-maxx body painted up in classic cheese-bus yellow.
The driver decal is a picture of my daughter wearing her favorite sunglasses, printed on clear decal paper.
I did build up a spare clod a while back for the wife, painted it candy pink, but sold it as she had no interest. I looked all over but can't find the pictures.
-Anthony
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What about using a lunchbox motor plate and the long 9t pinion.
also you could try lower voltage, the 4-cell 4.8v batteries we use for 1/12 scale racing would keep the speed down and still provide enough power for the radio gear.
My daughter is 2.5 she drives for about 10 seconds and then hands over the controller to me so I can make her truck wheelie. every once in a while she will reach over and jam the steering full lock to make it crash.
your hornet is a pretty durable car, don't make it too slow, a girl's gotta have some fun [8D]
-Anthony
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A 13 double is a bit of overkill for one of these. I would start with the smallest pinion you have and work up from there to avoid overheating.
-Anthony
quote:Originally posted by zakspeed
id="quote">id="quote">In the process of finishing my original gold tub RC10 runner. I'd like to put a decent motor through it. The spur gear is a 54 tooth, i have a spare 13 double (will this be any good) if so what pinion should i run. the manual dosnt give any pinion sizes but the picture of the motot shows what looks like a 13 tooth pinion?
I have an 11t mtroniks will this do for the 13 double?
any help greatly appreciated - cant wait to get this running
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find a well-stocked hobby shop and see what you find that is close and can be trimmed/shimmed to fit
something like this:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBCK5&P=7
May work if you really need metric and not imperial.
The length of your shaft is bigger than most regular 1/10 clutch pilot shafts, so likely you will need one from a model with a 2-speed as they tend to be longer to accomidate the extra gear.
if you do a search at tower for either "pilot shaft" or "clutch nut" you will find a bunch of potential candidates. unfortunately they do not list dimenstions for most of them.
good luck,
-Anthony
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The hex on the ofna wheels in the first link actually sit outside the inner rim face, giving a lot of extra offset compared to the stock wheels or even the stampede wheels.
you definately have to use hi-torque servos, and upgraded savers to get the truck to turn well.
-Anthony
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If you want nitro, take a look at the rc-10gt. I got one this summer and it is a blast, the rtr's can be had used for a reasonable price.
-Anthony
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The traxxas sledgehammer wheels are 2.2" and have the 5-hole rear hub that fits right onto the lunchbox and blackfoot, and the fronts take 5x11 bearings. they are more of a brushed aluminum look than shiny chrome, but still look good.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJH63&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJH64&P=7
The e-stampede/rustler wheels have hexes front and rear, but the nitro uses hex rear and bearings, front, so you could probably get a set of the nitro wheels to work.
-Anthony
] but I can do a decent job if I have something to follow.
Bad eBayer warning
in Off-Site sales plugs, tips & gossip - Including eBay, Gumtree etc.
Posted
He is absolutely convinced that strikers, sonic fghters, and fx-10's are fantastic race machines, his little shop must have 10-20 of these cars, bodysets, and complete sets of parts hanging on the wall for them.
he tries to sell them for a lot of money and wonders why nobody wants to buy them. He tried to get me to buy a beat old striker for over $100 telling me it is the best racer you could get, that everybody still runs them and that rc-10's get beat by him all the time at the local track.
I don't think he is as evil as he is mentally slow.
unfortunately being dumb and having an internet connection makes for problems for everyone else.
-Anthony
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