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Razer

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Everything posted by Razer

  1. I'd say it's not Traxxas at all, but if you bought a part for it that came in a Traxxas package, that confuses me. What was the part# and where did you get it? How did you know to buy that part if you don't know what the vehicle is?Traxxas did make an onroad version of their 1/6 scale Monster Buggy, but that had a 23cc Zenoah gasoline engine & looks very different (and bigger) than your car.
  2. You can use an extra small bevel gear (BM2) placed between two of the ones in the diff to lock it. If you don't have any extras, you can just use one of the original 3 in the diff & put it between the other two (which is what I did). This will lock it, seems to me to be the simplest way, & is reversable.
  3. Parma used to make a hardtop, but discontinued it a while ago. Keep an eye out on ebay. Here's some pics of one on a Traxxas Stampede: http://members.cox.net/glentheviking/rc/honcho.html
  4. I'm not a big fan of real Fords, but I have to admit that Tamiya's Jugg body is very nice. However, I am curious which modern 1:1 trucks you'd like to see on this chassis or which ones you think may be likely if Tamiya does sell it with different bodies like they did with the old 3-speeds. I think a Toyota would be more likely than anything else, though I'd prefer the Tacoma over the Tundra.
  5. False Fair enough, that's what I get for believing stuff I read on internet message boards! At least the release is real. I know I'm looking forward to it.
  6. I'm not sure where I had seen it posted before, but apparently TamiyaUSA wasn't supposed to put those new vehicles up on their website until after their debut at the Shizuoka hobby show. The release date I keep seeing is for the end of this July & price estimates are around $350-$399. I don't know if that's supposed to be the MSRP or the street price. I'm not sure if that release date is for the USA or everywhere, but the price seens about right as a street price in comparison to prices for the semi-trucks. In the end, I really don't care about all of that as long as I can get one when they start selling them. []
  7. Tamiya and apparently the UK calls these bearings: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXGN37&P=7 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXSK70&P=7 Here in the US, we call them bushings. I didn't find any of the 5x8mm size from Tamiya on that website, but I have alot of Traxxas vehicles & they have several different thicknesses of them: These are the sort I was talking about originally & I know Tamiya kits have them too. I know the TA-01 & TA-02 cars have them in the gearboxes. Here they are: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXJK83&P=7 Traxxas also has some plastic ones in various thicknesses: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXLR52&P=7 I usually have loads of these when I replace them with bearings/ballraces, & then I end up using them as spacers. It would be alot easier if the English we speak & the English you speak were the same! It should be easier to figure out with the pictures, but feel free to keep asking if I'm still not explaining it well enough. I was always a better student than a teacher! Cheers! [] Neil
  8. Yes, that's what I meant. Here in the US, what you call ballraces, we call bearings and what you call bearings, we call bushings. It's a little trickier than tyres = tires, lol.
  9. Try one or two of the smaller 5x8mm bushings as spacers. They shouldn't bind up the bearings like the larger bushings do when used as spacers.
  10. I'm in the USA & of course we all drive on the right side of the road (when sober). I had previously thought that everone else drove on the left (wrong) side, but recently learned that this is not the case. When in Europe for example, what happens when you go from a country that drives on the left to a country that drives on the right (or vice-versa). Is there some sort of crossover or something to get everyone switched over? I was also wondering about which side of the cars the steering wheel is on. Over here it's on the left side & we drive on the right side of the road & shift with our right hand. I know that it's the opposite for Japan & can only assume it's the same for Europe, but does it vary depending by country & which side of the road is driven on? Or do all cars in Europe have the steering wheel on the right whether the car is driven on the right or left side of the road? Some cars here do have the steering wheel on the right, but it's usually the kids that want their Japanese car to be Japanese spec. The other exception is postal workers who have their steering wheel on the right so they can easily reach roadside mailboxes. Anyway, just curious & hoping some of you won't mind letting me know which way different countries do it. As you say: Cheers! Neil
  11. 3.3F = 3,000,000uF Your cap is most likely 3.3uF, which is not unreasonable at all. 3.3F would be unreasonable. If it was 3.3 farads, the capactior would be close to the size of a 2 liter soda bottle. Have you ever seen the huge capacitors sometimes used for car audio systems? Those are usually 1 or 2 farads.
  12. As usual, I think Chris covered it pretty well, but there is something I'd like to add. As long as people are will willing to pay high prices for something, someone is going to be there to sell it to them at a high price. Except for one instance, I've had nothing but good experiences buying/selling/trading here (& ebay for that matter). Most members here seem to enjoy this hobby, but even the ones that are more into it for buying & selling items help us out by making something available that may have not been otherwise. I get enough enjoyment from the vehicles I have to not worry about the ones I've sold or traded away.
  13. I do it like terry describes, but without the alcohol & I use a 40W Weller SP40 without any difficulty.
  14. Where's the pencil sharpening action photos?[8-)]
  15. All of the Group C chassis cars use them. Here's the list: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/chassis.asp?id=3...=your%20request
  16. The Nitro Rustler uses the standard 12mm hex for the rear wheels and 5x11mm bearings for the front wheels. The Electric Rustler uses the 12mm hex in both the front & rear wheel, but with different offsets. The Nitro Rustler stock Pro Star wheels look alot better anyway. http://www.buytraxxas.com/product_info.php...ebfd0786e6734b4 http://www.buytraxxas.com/product_info.php...ebfd0786e6734b4
  17. Does dowel = roll pin? The roll-pin for the shaft comes with the shaft. I'm glad to help. As always, I can't wait to see more of your creations!
  18. The slipper spring comes with the slipper shaft. Aside from that, since most people are just going to lock the slipper up tight, you may want to get the spur gear adapter (Traxxas part# 3693) instead: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXJK67&P=7 The spur gear attaches directly to that (with (3) 3x8mm self-tapping screws) & it fits on the slipper shaft in place of the slipper. Back in the pre-slipper clutch days, this is what was used. The slipper shaft was just called the top shaft back then, but it's the same shaft. It's alot cheaper that buying all of the slipper parts! If you do actually want the slipper, they sell it as a complete set (part# 4615) with a couple of spur gears: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...LXJK87&P=ML The stub axle pins aren't used in the tranny at all. They're for mounting the 12mm hex hubs to the axles. And don't forget, you'll need (6) 5x11mm bearings to finish it off. (Yes, I'm a bit of a Traxxas nut.)
  19. I have to admit, I was hoping for something better than a big rubberband! I might try to find some small reuseable zipties. The reuseable ones I have are too wide to fit in the holes.
  20. I don't have any cam locks for my SS & I just can't justify the cost of replacements for a runner. I have been using long machine screws & nuts, but it's very inconvenient to open up the radio box to charge the battery pack. Do other members with runners pay for cam locks or is there a cheap & easy alternative that I'm unaware of? Thanks, Neil
  21. Try sending the Insane .zip file to me at: rockrazer@gmail.com I downloaded a free trial & it was only good for 15 minutes! It was pretty fun, but I was unable to damage a buffalo by running into it, lol. Are there smaller animals in the game? Thanks, Neil
  22. The Mabuchi RS550-PF is a dog. I've tried them before & they're alot weaker than the Titans. The generic motor in the first post is worse. The one to look for is the Johnson 63706. I run those in my E-Maxx with 17t pinions instead of the stock 18t pinions. Allelectronics.com had those for $3.50 each a while ago but E-Maxx owners here bought them all. I think they have some left at mpja.com for $3.95 each ($2.95 ea for 5 or more): http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=12802+MD To send a 5lb box (10 motors) to Denmark from the USA, the USPS charges the following: Airmail Parcel Post 4 - 10 Days $28.70 Economy (Surface) Parcel Post (Rate for pieces 5 pounds or less) 4 - 6 Weeks $19.25 To ship the same to the UK: Airmail Parcel Post 4 - 10 Days $33.75 Economy (Surface) Parcel Post (Rate for pieces 5 pounds or less) 4 - 6 Weeks $24.25 If anyone is interested, I can call mpja on Friday to see what they have in stock. They do ship internationally, but require a $100 minimum order for that & I have no idea what they'd charge for shipping. Later, Neil
  23. Complaining about excessive shipping isn't unreasonable. Asking about how to get out of the deal after you've already sent the money isn't something I'd attribute to an honest trader. When you bid on & win an ebay auction, you enter a binding contract to buy the item. When you then try to get out of the deal because you don't like the terms that you agreed to when you placed your bid, that's shady. Period. If a seller is doing something shady and/or breaking the rules, you should report him. By bidding on the item, you agreed to the seller's shady terms. If you have a medical condition that prevents you from reading the full details or making sound decisions, you need to slow down, re-read the details, & think about it more before you bid.
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