caprinut

Yup the dampers should hawe oil in them.... I enjoyed driving my Celica Gr.b (same chassis), really fun to blast down the street, let of the throttle, and make a sharp turn on the steeringwheel, get a powerslid and then jump on the pedal again.. Sadly a mate of mine did the same thing as above, only on rough tarmac and the car hooked and rolled badly, resulting in broken front gearbox mount. Got a new chassis a few years ago, will restore it soon, just need a body..

1. Zakspeed Capri Gr.5 - Mr..T has now done the Celica Gr.5, so time to do the Capri so they can race 2. Combi bus - just for the body, not fan of the chassis.. 3. Orginal bowtie Clod - really miss my Clod from the early 90s, should never traded it...

There are a few builds on scale4x4rc and rccrawler that does use a vintage steel 70s toy.. Really big and heavy :-) If you want I can see if I can find the build threads...

That was a HL tranny conversion kit that was on the market a 2-4 years ago, don't remember the make, but most prob Junfac or some other asian hop up maker. The idea was to move the motor from top to the side for better cog. I will search a bit to see if I can get you som info..

I have brushed motors in all of my cars exept one, my TT01E..

Exactly what I'm thinking too.... Same with 1:1 cars, new ones are boring because they handles like a rail, I would rather have a non power steering car with no flappy gears on the steering wheel, aka a Capri or something else that are pre 85' ish..

I switched to deans last year because my LSH are selling mainly battery packs with deans.. I have never had any trouble with the Tamiya connectors melting and I have not gaining more run time with deans, but the packs are prob putting out more power now, hence no extra run time.. I'm running everything from 4800kv bruchless to 65t lathe in my cars...

I have about the same amount of rc's, but half of them ore not complete as they are on going projects...

Mega mAh batteries comes very handy for us who does so called long trail runs with our scale rigs.. On a long trail trip I usually use 5000-10.000 of mAh, i.e two 5000 packs.. If you don't need that 120C punch, Traxxas make a battery with 12.800mAh The good news with the maxamps packs is that they are waterproof as some of us need when we drive in wet surfaces or submerge the rig, the downside is the price...

I just found out via Tamiyabase about the VW T1 bus, I'm over the moon about this one, don't care either if it lexan or hardbody as long at the dimensions of the body is correct.. Gonna sell the chassis if it a WW2 as I'm not found of these, but will keep if it's a Lunchbox type, but not likley as the drawing looks like a WW2... Will buy the Celica if it's a hardbody, not intrested if it's lexan.. But I don't understand why Mr.T make the gr 5 Zakspeed Capri body, they have done the 1:24 variant, so they could do it if they would... If the Celica is a hardbody I will make it a Capri... I.m also glad to see the gold wheels back....

Hi there... Big rig leaf springs are 104mm center to center of the eyes.. HL Hilux and F350 are 125mm if I'm not mistaken.. They are also 6mm wide.. Both type of springs can be mounted on the TLT family axles (tlt,hl,) and big rig + rc4wd axles

The seller is correct. All new receivers have BEC circut in them, so does the Tamiya BK101 etc.. There are NO need for the extra four batteries to power the receiver. Plug the steering servo to ch1. Plug the ESC (speedcontroller) into ch2. The red plug (called BEC plug by Tamiya) plugs into ch3 or where a extra ch is located, and make sure the red and black wires are connected in the right places, usually black on the outermost side of the receiver. If you have only 2ch receiver, buy a y servo cable so you can power to the red BEC plug.. Nearly all of my cars (10+) are running BK101 esc's and they work very fine without the extra batteries thank you And if you connect both the RED BEC plug AND a 4 battery box, you will frye the receiver or the ESC or both in the prosses after some time... GregM: Get your facts straigth before you give advice to others... Most receivers give out 5V to the servos (some crawler spec gives more), so the servoes will never see 7V connected via the receiver. To be able to give servoes 7V, they must run external BEC unit that power the servoes directly from the 7.2 pack..

Look at Losi Mini T dampers, the front ones, the rear are too long at about 50mm or there.. Btw: Here you are - 32mm shocks http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?partnu...=MFD32806;c=598 But remember these uses 2mm hardware to fastem them so you have to make several collars to be able to fasten it.. Here are a tip for you, buy a pair of regular short dampers, screw off the lower ball end and mount it up side down on the Hornet. Then take flanged nut and screw it on the dampershaft with the flage pointing to the threaded end. Mount it on your Hornet and secure with a nut on top. Better yet, I have a Hornet in my collection and I have just checked with my ruler.. You'll need a shock of 50mm to do the mod I just told you. This shock http://store.rc4wd.com/The-Ultimate-Scale-...ck-_p_1366.html is 57mm eye to eye uncompressed and with the ball end of it should be around 50mm long.. And if the damper has too little threads to be able to mount two nuts, secure it a wice grip and tap it with a M3 tap tool to get more threads. Make sure not to scratch the shaft or else it will leak at some point. Rubber O rings could be placed on each side of the shock tower to make the movment of the suspension smooth.... So in the end you should have something like this: shock up side down, nut, o ring, shock tower, o ring, washer, nut when you are finished... The good thing about the RC4WD shock is that firstly it is small in diameter, like the stock spring, and it has a internal spring so you shoulden't need a extra spring to hold the car up. If it turns out you need extra suport to hold the Hornet up, you can buy a stiffer spring and cut it to correct length.. http://store.rc4wd.com/Heavy-Duty-Springs-...003_p_1399.html Tell us how it goes mate :-) Somme say (with a Jeremy voice) I have som clever ideas somethimes....lol

I will just say that the 1:1 beetle uses a steeringbox, not a rack and pinion.. But if you want to go rack and pinion on this or a another project,tamiya has allready made that, you will find that in the Big Wig

Did the same thing with my computer... Google pics has also the same effect on my pc....grrr