jhellman(2)

Hello, I have those decals as a jpeg file - if you cannot find originals, you can try printing them on decal paper. Just let me know if you're interested in jpegs. Juha

Hello, the ball bearings needed are 1150 and 850. I do not remember exactly how many of each are needed - just check the manual! for reference, check the original tamiya part numbers from web-address below (cheaper alternatives are available too..): http://www.goldstarstockists.com/tamiyapar...x/ballraces.htm

Hello, no worries at all - just do it! I've run both my Rough Rider and F-150 with ESCs - even in hotshot (which has much less space for air in the box compared to SRBs). Generally ESCs just turn themselves of if they overheat - never happens with standard mabuchi though.. With ESC you get better control of the car and much longer running time. OK - some puritanists may say that ESCs are not how these were run in early 80's. Yes, you're right on that one.. On the other hand, many of us have cut off the 80's mullets as well. Juha

You might try cutting a thin slice of CD cover plastic - glue that in place with instant clue. Then dremel/use sand paper to finalize the surface. if there are some holes or something, you may use plastic padding to fill in, let dry and dremel/sand again. Then just paint it over and you're done. Takes a little time, but you do not have to break any other body. Ps. in case the roof window is lost in action, you can cut a new one from the same CD cover - works as a window too (when window has a straight surface).

Hi, any news - did they fit in all right?

I had even larger issues with SRB F-150 that I bought last year - the previous owner had cut off the sides from the back of the car. The body was probably badly cracked around the backtires or something. I fixed that simply by cutting pieces from CD cases with dremel. Glued them on with instant clue and fixed the surface with plastic padding - followed by total repaint and self-made repro decals. Not really high tech, but works ok. The surface is pretty ok (depend how much time you put on it) and it has been durable too - atleast no breakages so far.

Hi, sure I have one runner, check my showroom; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=321 You can find there my Audi A4 SWT, tamiya# 58182. Actually I use a BMW shell on it most often, somehow it looks better. I just run it for my own fun, I do not think it would be very competitive in todays races, about 5 years ago it might have been still OK. I bet the body shell you use on your ta03F is exactly the same that is on my Carson nitro (cr-4), also visible in the showroom. It's pretty thick lexan - good for nitro speed accidents. I hope you can tune the chassis to run like on rails - I find it pretty good to drive but it needed some tuning as written above. Of course we all have different driving styles, and it might be jsut fine for you right out of the box. -Juha

Hi, why don't you just print one decal set by yourself. There is a decent scan at Roby's old Tamiya database; http://digilander.libero.it/oldtamiya/ ->decals If the quality is not enough for a direct print from scan, you van either try playing around with sharpening etc it or tehn totally redraw the decal with vector drawing prog. It seems to be pretty easy decal set with very little fine details.[8)] best regards, Juha

Hi, there is a list of some set-up tips and available hop-ups for TA-03F at: http://www.direct.ca/xenz/jeff/car.html I had some handling probs with my ta03F in the beginnings. Since the engine is in front (much weight on front wheels), it handled pretty oversteeringly, especially when breaking in the corners. I changed stiffer springs to front, also lowered back end a bit + added a sway bar in the back. Now I'm pretty happy how it handles. In the process I found general set-up guides very useful. For example; http://www.rcingreece.com/RC%20Car%20Handl...20101/index.htm or http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx/tuningguide1/ or http://www.nascart.com/sedan.htm I have same feelings about M'tronics as previous speakers. If you need water resistant ESC, then probably better buy Carson ESC. They look exactly the same (must be manufactured by M'tronics for Carson label). I have a couple and they are decent ESC's. Not as good as the two LRP's I have anyhow! You get what you pay for.. Also the LPR engines, for example GT2 turbo- series offer pretty good performance for the price. Of cource they have not adjustable timings like modified engines, but they are good 1st hop-ups. Then you also have real modified engines also.. For LRP engine specs, check out; http://www.lrp-electronic.de/e/main_frameset_e.htm I bet all the engines are pretty OK, once you just base you choice on power, torque, max RPM and efficiency offered + whether you like adjustable timing or not. I only buy an engine that has these specs available. If the manufacturer or the reseller is not presenting some info, there must be some reason to hide it? Just an example from one German web-site of what I consider good information; "87-58152 LRP-Motor GT2 TURBO 15x2 25,00 Euro 31.400 U/min / 157 Watt / 73 % / 202 Nmm - 2-fach Wicklung und 6.1 Colltec Racinggehäuse und Leichtlaufsinterlager, austauschbare Motorkohlen und Motorfedern " Also note that you have an ESC that can handle the current. P=U*I -> I (current) = power (in Watts) / 7,2 Volts (in case you use 6 cells). Example: 157 Watts/7,2 V = 21,8 Amps. The "turn limit" of ESC are good general rules of thump, but in case you want to calculate it, you'll see that there are both variations and generally the ESCs have some head room between concurrent current they can take and what is their recommended number of turns in the engine. br, Juha

Hi, Making decals is pretty easy once you have a proper scan. Just scale it to correct size, print on decal paper (available for deskjets and colorlasers), for what kind of papers are available just see www.decalpaper.com I use colorjet and with good scan the quality is like original. If you do have ALPS printer, you can print white, and you only need clear decal papers. However, since I don ot have one and they are not too common after all, you need both white background decal paper and clear. Use clear for ones that need to be see through or are odd shapes (=hard to cut precisely). Use white decal paper on such decals that need to have white or on any decal that will be applied on dark surface (dark surfaces will shine through and make clear decals darker, unless they are black). If there is no good scan, then it gets more complicated. I use vector drawing programs (Illustrator, Xara X..) to draw decals (using poor scan as a model for shapes and colors). This takes time, but produces very sharp decals that are easy to scale without losing crispness. Alternative way to remake decals is to suft the net in hunt for those "rally stickers" in jpg format, it is pretty easy to find "mobil", "valvoline" etc.. But some are almost impossible to find. And these generally are never too big to make good printouts at correct size. Happy decalling. Anyone? Audi STW decal scan? Yours, Juha

Hello, anyone has a scan of Audi A4 STW decals. I bought this car as used one, and the body is wrong color and most of original decals are missing. Need to make new ones.. Help is appreciated! best regards, Juha

done. Just to update: I did print mine with HP LaserJet 8500C on a white background decal paper. The car came out very nice, just like originals. I used white decal paper, since ranger is pretty dark and the blue would shine through otherwise. Also, there are some decals that absolutely need to be printed on white background. The only thing with white paper is that the decals need to be cut very precisely not to leave white borders. I'll update my showroom once I have takes the pics of the car. I'm very satisfied with the result, and I like doing decals myself better compared with buying a new or repro set. It is a good waste of time (the decal set actually costs quite a lot if you'd calculate your own time..). best regards, Juha

Hi, my need was resolved by Jerry, he had an unopened set from which I made a good quality scan. If there are some other people like me, who like to make decals him/herself, just let me know and I can share the scan. Attaching it here would take too much precious disk space from the server. Thanks Jerry! best regards, Juha

No one has a scan of original? Generally it is very easy to get help from Tamiyaclub, is this really something nobody has? -Juha

Hello, does anyone have a decent scan of XLT decals. If so, please share! thanks in advance [], Juha

Hi, have you given a though using some very soft old used racing tyres, for example from go-carts or track racing cars? Melt them and get some real rubber compound. Better to get the softest compound tyres you can find, otherwise they might be too slippery for RC. After that you still need to get the vacuum and heat in order to get the vulcanisation to happen. My brother knows a person who turned an kitchen owen into rubber vulcanization owen to recoat go-cart tyres. It should not be a too hard once you have a proper molding cask. I have given some thought to it myself too, but have lacked the time and equipment to make a proper molding cask. I'm very interested to hear more about your experiments, please keep us updated on your findings. best regards, Juha

Hi, the new Carson site is: http://www.carson-modelsport.com/ Seems to be in german language only, the french or english buttons in the bottom of the screen seem not to work. Dann müssen Wir Deutsch lernen..[8)] BTW, what is the difference with Carson waterproof ESCs and Mtronics ESCs, except the price? To me they look very same (made by Mtronics?) but Carson branded ones are much cheaper. best regards, Juha

Hello Wireless, what is the codec you used to make the video, I only hear the sound but see now picture (cause the system cannot download correct codec). Any hints? -Juha

Hi, I just made myself one "lights set" from two white bright leds. Pretty easy and straightforward, just add correct resistors in front of leds and connect to the battery. I made a connection part with one female + one male tamiya connectors and some wire in between + escape wire for led connections - it is easy to stick additional leds (for tail light for example with red leds). For calculating correct resistors, refer to other discussions, there is much info on that. The price of two bright leds, two resistors + male and female plug was under 5 euros, if I recall it correctly it was closer to 3 euros. The bright leds look a bit like xeon lights. I also found nice looking round "led frames" made of metal which can fixed on the body. It looks very much like original light with xeons on real cars. The prce of the frames was roughly same price as the leds. I bet it shouldn't bee to hard to make brake lights either, since led only light when connected properly. Just take voltage between ESC and motor in such way that led only light when breaking (and backing up if your esc does that). Anyone tried to make such? br, Juha

Carson has not been mentioned yet.

Hi, yeps, you guessed right, it is ballraced. It rolls smoothly, just replaced bushings with ball bearings during the winter (I bought this car as used just 4 months ago). They are clean and very smooth rolling. Thanks for the tip about suspension arms, will check those as well, but I suspect they are fine, since it behaves similar way turning right and left. I'll go hunt better handling with these tips, any further tips are appreciated as well. br, Juha

Hi, thanks for advices; I haven't yet tried softer springs at rear, I'll try that in next session. Yes, the rear is adjusted a bit lower that front, that did help a bit as well. The instability happens in corners, especially when entering the corners. The back end spins too easily, thus it doesn't feel too balanced when breaking or releasing the gas fast + turning in the corner simultaneously. In straights it goes like "on rails". I'll also try both 60 and 80 in front shocks and keep the rear as it is (40). The tyres should be ok (even old), they are touring car slicks (53224 I think). OK, it is quite cold still in Finland (10 C, round 55 F) at the moment, so the grip isn't the best either. However, if tires would be bad all round but chassy would be in balance otherwise, it would slide in controlled 4 wheel slides. Now it slides sideways with rear trying to get ahead of front, thus chassis needs tuning. I'm not trying to make it a rally car[] Thanks for comments, I'll try these ones. Any further advice is appreciated. br, Juha

Hi, I have very standard TA-03F and would like to make it better to drive. Since the motor is up front, it seems that the center of gravity of close to front wheels, which causes very good steering response. The downside of this one is that rear slides too easy. I've tried to compensate this by using stiffer springs front and it helps quite considerable, it is much easier to drive now, but there is still room for improvement I feel. What kind of experience you have on the "53276 ta03 colored stabilizer set". Do they help in this issue? I haven't yet changed to stiffer oils in front, but that is one thing I'm considering. Any hints what is suitable viscosity (front/rear). Please, in cease you have done your home work setting ta-03F (standard version, not pro of David Jun), please post your recommendations. Also interested whether you use toe-in/0/toe-out + other setups that you have ended up. best regards, Juha

Hi, mine behaves exactly the same (or atleast is very lazy returning up when standing still. It seems to return well when driving around). It must be a "feature". I bought my hotshot as used one, I do not know if it was the same as a new one or have the springs just got too loose being compressed in shocks for years and years. Probably just replacing old springs with stiffer ones would do the trick. However, the car is good to drive as it is - it keeps the tyres well on the ground in various situations. Thus, does it get even better to drive with stiffer springs?[8)] best regards, Juha

nice work![^] If you see all that trouble, it certainly is worth uploading for all to enjoy the better printouts! Juha