WillyChang

ahh those were the days my friend especially back when with a dialup modem & TIMED DIAL-in INTERNET. FleaBay was still US-centric US-based & all furringer aliens needed to spoof you’re a US resident to get a lookin I've still got my 1999 US account which has become some odd unloved pariah - nowadays never gets any storewide promo offers that’ll work on it. oh yeah NO PAYPAL!!! Didn’t exist in that early heydaze. Had to snail mail sellers a USD bank draft.

Go hunting for excessive heat. If the battery (assume good & fully charged) is indeed fully discharging in 10mins, that’s a fair bit of energy to dissipate... something will be getting real hot. Might not even be electrical, is every moving part rolling smoothly without obstruction?

Doesn’t need a Chevy body to make anything a Clod. Don’t forget the Bullhead, a Clod in disguise!

If you’ve only been using aerosol WD40 so far, imho it’s mainly the aerosol component that’s doing any solvent/cleaning ability which will dissipate when evaporated. WD40 from an unpressurized jerrycan doesn’t. Are you washing off WD40 with water afterwards? Motorfactors sell “degreaser” aerosol cans made for spraying on engine parts then hosing off with water. Cheaper than WD40 & generics. I use aerosol electric Contact Cleaner to clean greasy bike & RC parts when I don’t rinse with water afterwards. Collect drippings in a solvent proof can & reuse to soak next greasy parts.

Grab a roll of plumbers Teflon tape. put a layer or 2 between ball & cup when you snap them together.

that u bananaSoozie?

Only a couple of minor sponsor brands, worth chopping up an OG sheet?

C-rings aren’t strictly necessary. BiTD used to get twistties/breadbag ties, strip off their pvc/paper coating and use the wire within. Just a turn or 2 around the out drive groove; long as outdrive can’t fall out thru the 1150 that’s all you need.

23 & 32mm for front arms ironically also used (the other, bigger) MST’s cups

btw yeah I’ve been watching every MRC yt vid since last yr recent vids have you noticed they’ve been trying to teach ppl to mod the knuckles? They use a square of yellow masking tape to measure the right spot to drill a new hole closer to the kingpin for steering link. This would be where the Yokomo (or most other drift brand) knuckles come in handy with multiple holes. Some Yok knuckles also offer 2 places to put kingpin to allow choice of Inclination.

When I bought mine earlier this yr MRC had a shopfront on Amazon.jp - try to find that link to avoid any auctions. Only catch with a.jp is my usual gaijin amazon login (works for USA & au) isn’t recognised so gotta setup a new a/c. They sent it DHL too, arrived just days after. Great service.

Black plastic vs Yokomo CF & alloy...

some gratuitous pics

A quick reality check Anybody new to RWD drift wanting a turnkey decent chassis would be better off looking at something like Yokomo’s RD1.0 or the Reve-D RDX. Lots of good reports on those especially the RDX. There’s many other entry level kits like Sakura D5 or MST 2.5 but these seem to need some tuning before they slide nice.