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About WillyChang

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  • Birthday 03/08/1955

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    Australia VIC

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  1. Blockheads soon to be issued as XBPro RTRs
  2. Haven’t seen restock of fascolor downunder for many yrs now. Some shops have remnants of Proline (I think) but they’re crazy ex & stock looks years stale too. The fellas at LHS these days are using Vallejo Premium (seems to stick well enough to lexan, no sign of peeling even with their on track antics) or SMS lacquer with a touch of SMS Flex Additive. SMS has a huge range from metallics & pearls to crazy flips.
  3. Vintage Bash entries been soldout months ago. :/ Their website here https://www.thevintagebash.com
  4. Yep! 4 wks left, gotta get a move on getting my runners running!
  5. Gearboxes should be dustsealed ideally. If ppl aren’t installing the green papery disc between motor & mounting... vents in motor can front will let dust into gear cavity.
  6. oh yeah also anything recent that came with chromed 2mm bolts, they’re pretty soft cheese ive got older ones that had black steel bolts, those don’t strip their hex heads that easily. Probably more hi tensile
  7. depends on the axle, sometimes I gotta stretch it out & other times I gotta squish them tighter in the vise. The little screw can only do so much. Looked at shaping them down yrs back but being so small & fiddly it’s PITB. There’s a little ridge on the back so it’s not as easy to file. Also gotta be fully flat on the front or your wheels will wobble. Tbh to improve springyness I’d bust out the dremel and extend the slot to the other side of axle hole Easier route is to stock up on every size & colour for these dirtcheap yumchas Heck I could buy proper brandname alloy clamp hexes... looked at some Yokomo ones yesterday - coned in back, perfect sharp edges & corners... very very nice! But they’re $30+ for a 4set... nah, pass.
  8. Sold price is a recorded data point = ok. But you’ve sold stuff that wasn’t bought-in in the exact same state it got sold in, so how would you prove costbase on goods that you’ve either bought privately, owned for years, remade/upcycled/tarted up from old junk... Far as taxman goes, if you haven’t got paper trail what your input costs are - he’ll consider it zero & now your sales receipt is taken as 100% gross profit
  9. Tamiya kits are “RC ala carte” imho, I’m free to hopup much as I fancy. kitbox parts are just placeholders for future hopups, whilst waiting for their delivery Mid ‘22 is a hash between base spec & Turbo, not full on Turbo spec Yeah it got ex real quick Latest Kyosho RRPs have also jumped heaps since chaindrive Optima series from 6yrs back. But it’s not just them, Yokomo has recently increased their parts tag prices & retrospectively too.
  10. Anyone else keep getting distracted by the shiny Sub on his wrist?
  11. I think hard coating is an anodizing treatment Alu forms an invisible alu oxide layer on exposure to air. This alu oxide can be anodized with various chemicals to dye its colour &/or improve its surface properties eg wear resistance. lately have discovered some bigbore shock bodies (not T) that haven’t been ano treated on the inside. Within just a few races the cylinder wears to oval & the round piston don’t seal as well anymore. Shock oil goes grey from all the metal worn off. Not T but another longtime JP rc brand. Their previous shocks aren’t that fast wearing by the racers that used them, just the latest lot.
  12. yeah I’ve installed a couple sets of these in recent months Stash from prelockdown so dunno how bad/better later production has become But the main point is... once you get to the 6mm size, the alloy is pretty thick & not springy. The tiny 2mm screw has little chance to “clamp” before either stripping the screw threads or it’s hexhead. (Less drama with 4&5mm versions) The hex’s shaft hole usually smaller than axle too so I have to lever out the gap (before putting screw in) to make it fit into the hole. Then press it over the axle & pin. Install the tiny screw just for completion.
  13. I’d be curious if it’ll still work if slaved to the TLU-02 When they first came out I got the 02 & 2x 01s to play with. Complex circuitry made it hard to DIY extra LEDs on a custom wiring loom. Otherwise if one fully loaded every LED slot with the Tamiya LEDs you’d have a rats nest of wiring weighing a kilo.
  14. I’d be a bit wary of the ball size too. Yok also loves modding the most tiniest detail for each variant... like I think they increased rear track by 1mm each side on YZ2 CAL3.1 vs YZ2 CAL3.0; then there’s the YZ2 DTM half brother too. What length are the OTB125b btw? I’m still waiting on parts before I get to pull apart the mock build & finalize it with musthave hopups. Could’ve gotten a Yok YZ4 cheaper at this rate!!
  15. In any case, I’d doubt it’s the switch. Looks like there’s some component missing where it’s labeled 7XL (ish) on the PCB. Haven’t opened up a TLU-01 before but it’s a pretty involved circuit design imho. It seems to limit current to the LEDs by some fancy transistorised switching - i can some hum when it works.
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