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WillyChang

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About WillyChang

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  • Birthday 03/08/1955

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    http://www.PandaGFX.com
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    Australia VIC

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  1. What for? There's just no $$ to be made in tiny RHD market. The big boss said it flat outright himself "it's throwing good money after bad" Kangaroos (bushfire), meat pies (gone plant-based) and now Holden cars (-$$)... bye bye.
  2. Yay! The cord is just parachute cord, anywhere from haberdashery or army surplus supply sells it. Or harvest from old Venetian blinds, plenty of those at the tip.
  3. Nah was wanting no drag brake for the little winch... think I gave up, jumped online and ordered some cheap winch controller instead - can't remember if it's key fob remote controlled or RX controlled switch (because in the 4-6wks it takes to arrived I've gotten distracted elsewhere; arrived parcel gets added the interesting gizmos pile that I'll get around to installing one day... if that winch is still operational anyway because some kid has been using it as a battering ram.) That was way back when "too cheap to be believed" 1060s appeared on fleaBay and we all got conned. remember those?
  4. Ah ok, thanks for confirmation was mucking about with 1060 on bench wondering if it'll drive a winch, felt as though it was jamming up when in neutral when trying to pull out the winch cable.
  5. Sounds like the custom Unimog crawler I bought (long before Unimogs were common lexan things) with hand built ladder chassis (long before China generic chassis were common) with TLT axles (long before HighLift appeared). Chassis is interestingly "greebled" and looks the part from 10' away. But if you brought out calipers its doubtful its anywhere square. It's all painted over with black but where the paint has chipped off I think it's "mixed media" from steel bars, scrap aluminium and balsa wood... Axle cases have taken a beating but they run smooth. It's a slow crawler so handling is not required but it'll climb a fair terrain. So space on chassis to fit battery so it lives on the tipper bed - which can't tip anymore with batter there. Haven't had heart yet to pull it apart, I know it'll never get reassembled the same. Takes up less space as 1 truck than a mess of pieces.
  6. Fwd/Rev with no brake is called "crawler" mode. Quicrun 1080 is popular with crawler guys; don't know if 1060 can be switched to crawler function. These days ESCs are so efficient they barely get warm; old ESCs meant for boats might have provision for water cooling their heatsink in the hulk where they don't get airflow. Servo signal from RX is 3 wires... red +ve, black/white -ve and blue/yellow/etc for signal. Long as you rewire the correct wire to the correct terminal you won't release the magic smoke.
  7. Yes dimensions are identical, even the hole for switch is there. Just drill 3 holes for mounting posts.
  8. Generally yes but I've had at least kit-supplied one that wasn't... dunno if it either got flipped at factory or someone has fiddled with it afterwards before I got it. Possibility is there. Definitely need to reread the destructions for the flipping sequence.
  9. Spektrum are one of those that make EPA settings confusing they seem to allocate some arbitrary "100%" but then you can increase it to like 200% (= full throw of servo by old skool standards). In which case, your radio @100% might not be giving enough throw for the ESC to detect as maximum during programming try increase it to 140% Dunno about DSMR but don't forget about failsafe programming too. I like to reset the DSM1/2 Spektrum's RX failsafe to 'neutral' before programming. One less thing to worry about that could muck up.
  10. Tundra is longer wheelbase than the earlier 2 I think. Might have motor/gearbox mounted lower or higher too... can't remember, they've been released too long ago No must have hopup after bearings; light kit or better still light & sound kit makes them come alive.
  11. What radio are you trying to pair it to? How old? If it's non-Futaba &/or really old... the travel range of your radio may exceed what signal the ESC is expecting, it'll exit the programming mode. Try reducing the throw by dialling down EPA to maybe 70-80% or if it doesn't have EPA add stops to mechanically reduce throw of lever. Sometimes it's worth flipping the servo reverse to ch2 & retry programming. Knack is handy for 230, 330 etc and any radio older than RJ112JE era.
  12. TBLE instructions are handy to work out if it's in brushed or brushless mode. In the wrong mode vs motor connected it's no workee.
  13. QC has left the building huh. Or is that a "handling feature"
  14. The switch in every ESC I've opened merely cuts the power supply to the RX via the servo lead. Think it's usually the ground (black/-Ve) lead that's switched.
  15. Now that you know - Best not to do your soldering with those plugs on the motor, take them off first. Especially if you're inexperienced and may take more than 5-10s of heating to make a good joint. Otherwise the corally prong will soak up all your heat, it might unsolder off the circuitboard. Plus if you're really unlucky the heat will flow inside the motor and start unsoldering stuff inside too. Fat high-current wiring also conducts heat efficiently. You'll need a decently powerful soldering iron; one with decently beefy "heat mass" is better still. Wattage helps it get up to temp faster, but you also want enough metal mass to bank up enough heat to get the job done fast.
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