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About WillyChang

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  • Birthday 03/08/1955

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    Australia VIC

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  1. Is that for a nitro car's RX pack? On Spektrum used to be the RX's telemetry for voltage measures the incoming volts into the RX... which if coming from an ESC with BEC won't be same as the main pack's voltage.
  2. btw you can tune them further by inserting those red sponge pellets into the diaphragm's cavity...
  3. Yep pierce the cap to vent, not the diaphragm I drill a tiny hole (0.5-1.0mm bit) in centre of cap into the ballcup. Ball does fine job of keeping dirt out, whilst staying not airtight. Some people like airlock/rebound as a tuning tool, to each his own. For the longer throw CVAs (vs supermini) there's a fair noticeable difference. I just like it vented more because oil seeps out less leading to dirt buildup on shaft which wears out the seals.
  4. I don't like the "air pocket got squished" effect so I nix it by venting the cap. I prefer my shocks to use their innards for damping not "air springing" as there's perfectly good springs outside to do that job. Putting the oil under pressure makes it more likely to seep thru the seals... after a while your oil volume inside reduces and shock action changes. You should play with some clear body CVAs. I find them fascinating...
  5. If memory serves, 10-15yrs ago have seen threaded alloy shock bodies and parts like caps in a rainbow of colours being sold by some 3rd party - I think it was Tech Racing or Square. These bits looked identical to TRF shock parts, always wondered if they escaped from same factory Never did get around to buying any of them NIP to compare with genuine TRF, although some of my cars that arrived preloved do bear coloured bits that I've never found in TRF catalogue. (Then again TRF might make some special bits for Japan sake that never got exported, who knows) Reanodising TRF shocks IMHO is not a great idea if you have to burn off the original colour then polish it hard to restore the cratered surface - won't you lose some material & accuracy?
  6. Run it as loose as you can (for least drag) without it skipping over pulley.
  7. yeah the grey plastic are supposedly low friction... I just stockup on those, ready for use when rebuilding a preloved racer or new kit... which then leaves me leftovers of the std black ballcups to use in basher cars = I don't need to buy blacks too often Theres numerous models of Tamiya turnbuckles over the years, lost count. Yeah the All Blue ones will scuff with handling, especially if you use a Harder Metal wrench. So I stick with the tiny cheap Tamiya blue wrench... it seems Softer than those turnbuckles, so the tool wears out instead - replace every so often, costs less than a beer. For the steel or black Tamiya turnbuckles... cheapest tool is using the stamped metal spanner they provide, they're as plentiful as crossbox wrenches but don't use just 1, grab 3 and stack them! Wrap or glue them together. Less likely to slip off the turnbuckle. Some other brands Cross box wrenches have an arm that holds the ballcup, perfect! I hate seeing ballcups marred by pliers = ugly & tweaks the plastic. Whenever ballcups get sloppy & im too lazy to renew, just snap them over a sliver of plastic. Plumbing Teflon tape works great.
  8. What's wrong with the ballcups? They work fine. i upgrade to the grey reinforced plastic versions just because they wear out slower, but otherwise they're the exact same mold Shocks are measured distance between centrepoints of their 2 eyelets. Again CVAs built properly work just fine & better than most cheap China shocks. I upgrade to TRFs mainly for threaded body convenience.
  9. Hopup Blackmotor with Mount was the same mount as from CS; to replace 380 motor mount in nonCS cars. Yeah had forgotten CS had a no-diff plain gear tuning option, whereas nonCS 380S motor mount had an idler/reduction gear option for slower running. CS Diplo wheels did have ball bearings by looks of the manual. Not sure on rear pod... we did buy that BlackMotor with motor mount hopup and that only had bushings if memory serves. NonCS front end had the knuckles held in the black servo tray. CS had separate knuckle mounts bolt directly to the waisted chassis plate. According to 05 manual http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehicle-manuals/tamiya/tamiya-lamborghini-countach-lp500s-manual.pdf the LP500S was built for Walter Wolf in 2 units, 1 red 1 blue. Paint yours however you wish
  10. Smells like sintered metal 3D printed?
  11. Believe the nonCS chassis would be similar to Porsche 936's chassis, which was a straight sided slab of aluminium with the radio tray bolted on top. CS chassis was waisted like a coke bottle. NonCS had phone dial wheels with rubber tyres, think they were treaded. CS had Countach rear foams and Diplo fronts. CS ran 540 motor; can't remember if nonCS only got 380 in the kit. CS body had a chrome wing? Did nonCS get the 4X C cell holder? Bodyset/s were repopped in very ltd qty as some Japan show special product, think it was early 2000s probably 2002/2003ish. Period hopup that made the biggest performance difference would be the 540SD Black Motor with motor mount set. Or perhaps the 7.2V hump pack vs the 6V flat pack which was std. Ball bearings were available individually.
  12. LiFe used to be called A123 cells but afaik these days they're more famous as 18650 aka "Tesla cells" When Tesla builds them into an array of 7000 and plugged into a Supercharger, there's close monitoring & reticulated coolant keeping them cool under high charge current. Latest iteration I hear uses the car's Aircon to superchill the coolant to allow even higher charging currents.
  13. Probably easier to memorise each chassis's internal drivetrain ratio then add on your spur/pinion combo assuming you're limited to the kit's specific spur. Most of the later tourers like TA04/5/6+ and TB Evo III/IV/5+ and all the TRFs 414/415/416/417+ have a universal spur mount, you can use any spur you like & pinion to suit. If you're willing to hack the motor mounting plate slots there's even wider range still. Some cars like TA03 once had 3rd party spur options offered too. Or TL01 had Speed Tuned Gear Set. Mini has 3rd party Speed Tuned gears too. Some belt chassis like TA03 & TA05 had factory-provided choice of pulley sizes so that'll affect internal drivetrain ratio. TA06 doesn't have choice of pulley provided in kitbox, but easily modded with aftermarket pulleys.
  14. did some extra measuring looks like 18650 2s is best fit AAs can only fit 4 in the hole even with just cells not the AA holder, there's no room to fit a 5th. Remove the plate on too and there's headroom for 6 or 7 AAs. You'd need 7 to keep up with lipo 7.4V. Tried a little Traxxas 1/16 lipo pack, fits in hole but too long - longer than the 2nd notch. No point anyway as 2x 18650 offers similar capacity & voltage.
  15. yeah after the big guns were pilfered the business name & a few remaining minor marques got sold up north to Universal Hobbies Mike Farnan the Melbourne founder of ME retired Old ME was wholesale only not retail, is the new mob doing some direct sales?
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