Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1737 Excellent

About WillyChang

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/08/1955

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    Australia VIC

Recent Profile Visitors

12652 profile views
  1. haha yeah, I swear some are still using molds 50-60yrs old inherited from companies the parent company swallowed up in The Great Niche Modelkit Manufacturer Extinction last decade. That said, have handled more than fair share of rere & OG Frogs - can’t say T’s plastic moldings have degenerated to any noticeable extent. I still have a rere kit from first batch (2005?); LHSes just got restocked with Frogs again in oz so I assume the factory has pumped out a fresh lot recently.
  2. always been wanting a Tamiya pin vice many years now ... decided to finally commit just few wks ago Found stock in LHS. But when looking at actual item... casting looks rough, nothing too special imho... reminds me of yumcha generic cheap tool. Ended going upmarket to GodHand instead oooh err now that GH brand sure is crazy premium priced but somehow for their quality feels worth it.
  3. err yeah right... blatantly ignoring the FACT that mass produced items all carry the same SKU/barcode (no unique serial #s) - so just HOW would you differentiate between units in a pile of the same stock item that’s been restocked at different times/price?
  4. Suppliers been raising prices every new shipment since lockdown = price tag stickers gone the way of the dodo. Stickers lately been rejigger to just SKU barcode, no more prices. Good LHS these days have price check stations to scan the barcode or I just have their webshop open on my phone
  5. have had a clear blue one on my keyring for over a decade During Covid lockdown it’s proven handy as a door handle pusher when you don’t wanna touch it with your bare hands.
  6. Pliers works fine, I never use crimpers for servo plugs. Just fold the tabs over the copper wire overlapping; quick flow of solder then fold the grip tabs over the wire insulation.
  7. could be closer relative to baby brother 1040, although there’s so many clones of those it’s hard to keep track anymore
  8. all my genuine HW branded 1060s that arrived in red white hobbywing box have a red heatsink; silicone cap over switch HW sells OE 1060s to other resellers eg Tamiya/Kyosho/private label which have black heatsink, no Hobbywing sticker. (Have also noticed missing silicone switch cap on OEs, so am a bit hesitant as to their waterproofness)
  9. afaik the bottom 2 holes should matchup with the distance on the arm mounts, no? Then just scale/extrapolate the 3rd. Not that it really matters anyway, you could put that shock mount point anywhere you like to suit the shocks you’re using. The CRP hardware bits to mount the shocks to arms probably be harder to work out.
  10. Avante Black isn’t PS2 either, isn’t it PS31 Smoke?
  11. OP wanted sticks hence his search for 3GR. Downunder cheapest stick Futaba I’ve held is 4YWD for around A$240; 3PV is about A$230. Just noticed arrival of T6L in either Mode 1 or 2... priced at A$150ish. Could be decent entry level Futaba for anybody wanting sticks going forward. Flysky is like A$60ish for T4B or GT2B. KO is making some interesting gear lately, decently priced vs Sanwa/Futaba too... have you seen their MC8? A$150 for 6-channel!
  12. SuperHornet runs 2.0” rear wheels, same molding as Fox/WildOne just in orange ABS. 2” rear tyres easily sourced from Hotshot oval blocks, Supershot pin spikes, rere WildOneOffroader & NovaFox. Latest fanciest 2.0” tyre supply would be off 2022 Kyosho Optima Mid; or maybe 2019’s Turbo Optima might’ve used the same rubber too. Schumacher still makes some 2.0s in their “C.A.T” range but I find it hard to differentiate which are 2.0/2.1/2.2”. My schuey-stockist LHS never have enough range in stock at any one time to let me properly compare.
  13. Plastic when heated towards its plastic point (hehe) tends to shrink then droops as it melts. To have any control you need to lay it against some mold/form of intended final shape, then heat. Hot air of most sources whether rework station or “Real Man’s Hairdryer” aka heat gun are spotty heat, not great for heating large plastic areas evenly. To bend PLAsheet... I lay it on a corner of a wood beam or alu angle. Then heat the edge with laundry iron (dry, no steam). Hard to do organic curves in plastic by spot heating as reheating next area will shrink the previous area etc etc. Vac molding over former is easiest way to get what you intended to make. Different plastics different melt points. I think lexan needed to go 130-140degC before seeing any phase change. PET was like 80ish & I could even use hot kettle water. Styrene/ABS barely 70ish.
  14. Avatar II is getting rereleased soon, so I hear off the interwebs. Hmmmm a lot of legacy rc forums getting sold off to rc-unrelated big holding companies ... they keep them alive even when traffic drops to tumbleweeds - but yeah “admin” often seems elusive. RCtech having huge issue atm past 2wks - VB error loading pages on non-desktops, nobody can access via handhelds of any flavor. Mods can’t get their admins to respond etc etc
  • Create New...