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About WillyChang

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  • Birthday 03/08/1955

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    Australia VIC

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  1. DF03 runs ok but for fun bashing IMHO the DF01 MantaRay would be tougher, easier to keep running & probably better to live with. DF03's ball diffs can be a PITA if not built right & they keep blowing up. Or just get a Slash 4X4
  2. Yeah I haven't broken too many servosaver in Minis... often they break the knuckle arm before stripping the servo.
  3. If we "have to" use the original servosaver... grab calipers to measure width of the 2 half nubs gently file down to make them exactly equal width assemble servosaver & install tie a thin ziptie around the whole C spring. Sometimes even a drop of superglue at the 2 nubs and the tips of C spring. Any impact will usually break the glue & ziptie before servo gears. "usually" If we must run plastic geared Tamiya/Futaba stock servo always bring stock of spare gears to the race pits.
  4. Trouble with xtals is LHS often asks A$15-20/pr even for generic AM basic ones... meh just go 2.4!! Did NovaFox ever come with an MSC anywhere in the world? Don't recall ever seeing one... the kits I've touched all either had ESCs or none (Japan market). Same with the WildOne - which is real shame as that needs unique MSC with longer wires. Fox is like Hotshot with sealed tub. The less I need to unscrew that tub for maintenance the better. With originals sometimes I leave the MSC in there (mainly so it don't get lost) and fit a small ESC in the servo's spot. MSCs work ok when playing in large areas where you're always in top speed. But try to drive real slow indoors or small areas and you'll cook it quick. Re-re/NovaFox is a godsend for Fox runners because we got NEW FRESHLY MINTED ARMS! Old Foxes were pretty hardy in the chassis tub & drivetrain, even the hexbones lasted long enough when correctly greased & sealed. But the plastic arms didn't age well, most Foxes got retired when stocks of spare arm sprues dwindled. They even shatter just sitting on the shelf. Those original sprues went for crazy money at one stage. Many attempts made at getting compatible arms made from alloy, delrin/nylon or 3D printing. But if you make the arm too strong you'll start wrecking the mounts on the chassis on impacts etc etc.
  5. Holy Trinity was the original collector's Grail but after re-res appeared that Triumvirate starts becoming like Douglas Adams' THGTTG trilogy in four parts. Or five, when there's an RTR variant. Or six, when a painted body re-re-re gets churned out. Or does one consider the re-re a separate model (as it does have a different #); then you'd want a trio of those too some models are "same same but (minutely) different" it's nice to display a newbuilt one just to compare with its original.
  6. Here's lobbing an odd curveball spanner in the works I prefer looking at a Tamiya built for the shelf using genuine original factory kit parts &/or option parts. Not as particularly enthusiastic about adding 3rd party hopups nor homemade/3Dprinted bits to the shelfqueens. Not impossible to make or buy an interior or extra detailing parts especially in the drift/crawler circles but those bits end up on runners not shelfers.
  7. Loved the Tamiya Paint Markers, especially their chrome silver - not really shiny chrome just dull silver but it covered pretty well enough to be a 1-shot job. Wonder when T stopped making them haven't seen them in yonks. These days I go looking in the Gundam modelling supplies instead.
  8. Fox has been re-released in recent years; new cars don't get MSC anymore. For best reliability an Electronic Speed Controller replaces the MSC & 2nd servo with a solidstate transistorised equivalent. No need to muck about with regular mechanical maintenance or resistors that get hot. Old AM radio gear also more trouble than they're worth in a runner. For $20-30 you can buy a cheapo 2.4gHz (eg FlySky GT2B) TX & RX that don't need xtal pairs, suffer zero interference & many of the new TXes only use 4 AAs not 8. A basic servo (eg Futaba 3003 & equivalents) can be had for $10ish, it'll do the job for steering in a Fox. Don't need anything more torquey or faster.
  9. If still using stock plastic part, sometimes the moldings isn't 100% true. The big C spring clamps onto 2 halves that make up a bit... if these 2 bit halves aren't exactly equal you'll suffer steering that changes neutral point every bump. i change to hi-torque servosaver or 3rd party
  10. PWM pulse is too fast/short & won't have sufficient current to activate any relay directly. You need some IC smarts. Gutting a servo's PCB will supply you a mini ESC with reversing motor-drive output... you can use this to drive lights etc (take heed of polarity) Or for price of a beer these days you can buy a purposebuilt RX-controlled relay from Hobbyking/fleaBay that does exactly that. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-receiver-controlled-switch-1.html
  11. ooooh first kit I've seen that supplies 7mm box socket At the track undoing/doingup wheelnuts is the main job; the 7mm box lives on tool 80% of the time. Only gets swapped out for 2mm hex or PH2 when there's a big teardown. But rarely happens as it'll usually be quicker to throw down the spare car instead.
  12. For RC workbench I don't like the pistol type, I prefer the baton style of screwdriver... which are getting impossible to find nowadays More importantly when off-power I want the bitchuck to stay put with the screwdriver body so I can handtighten the final amount. Any driver that lets the bitchuck able to be turned when torqued manually is useless for RC wrenching.
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