WillyChang

ahh those were the days my friend especially back when with a dialup modem & TIMED DIAL-in INTERNET. FleaBay was still US-centric US-based & all furringer aliens needed to spoof you’re a US resident to get a lookin I've still got my 1999 US account which has become some odd unloved pariah - nowadays never gets any storewide promo offers that’ll work on it. oh yeah NO PAYPAL!!! Didn’t exist in that early heydaze. Had to snail mail sellers a USD bank draft.

Go hunting for excessive heat. If the battery (assume good & fully charged) is indeed fully discharging in 10mins, that’s a fair bit of energy to dissipate... something will be getting real hot. Might not even be electrical, is every moving part rolling smoothly without obstruction?

Doesn’t need a Chevy body to make anything a Clod. Don’t forget the Bullhead, a Clod in disguise!

If you’ve only been using aerosol WD40 so far, imho it’s mainly the aerosol component that’s doing any solvent/cleaning ability which will dissipate when evaporated. WD40 from an unpressurized jerrycan doesn’t. Are you washing off WD40 with water afterwards? Motorfactors sell “degreaser” aerosol cans made for spraying on engine parts then hosing off with water. Cheaper than WD40 & generics. I use aerosol electric Contact Cleaner to clean greasy bike & RC parts when I don’t rinse with water afterwards. Collect drippings in a solvent proof can & reuse to soak next greasy parts.

Grab a roll of plumbers Teflon tape. put a layer or 2 between ball & cup when you snap them together.

that u bananaSoozie?

Only a couple of minor sponsor brands, worth chopping up an OG sheet?

C-rings aren’t strictly necessary. BiTD used to get twistties/breadbag ties, strip off their pvc/paper coating and use the wire within. Just a turn or 2 around the out drive groove; long as outdrive can’t fall out thru the 1150 that’s all you need.

23 & 32mm for front arms ironically also used (the other, bigger) MST’s cups

btw yeah I’ve been watching every MRC yt vid since last yr recent vids have you noticed they’ve been trying to teach ppl to mod the knuckles? They use a square of yellow masking tape to measure the right spot to drill a new hole closer to the kingpin for steering link. This would be where the Yokomo (or most other drift brand) knuckles come in handy with multiple holes. Some Yok knuckles also offer 2 places to put kingpin to allow choice of Inclination.

When I bought mine earlier this yr MRC had a shopfront on Amazon.jp - try to find that link to avoid any auctions. Only catch with a.jp is my usual gaijin amazon login (works for USA & au) isn’t recognised so gotta setup a new a/c. They sent it DHL too, arrived just days after. Great service.

Black plastic vs Yokomo CF & alloy...

some gratuitous pics

A quick reality check Anybody new to RWD drift wanting a turnkey decent chassis would be better off looking at something like Yokomo’s RD1.0 or the Reve-D RDX. Lots of good reports on those especially the RDX. There’s many other entry level kits like Sakura D5 or MST 2.5 but these seem to need some tuning before they slide nice.

FYI The MRC kits come in 2-3 spec levels, from basic plastic bits to full on set where they supply just about everything required. Bought both types for TT01 to see which was more worthwhile... ended up using basic kit mainly for the plastics. I’ve been cobbling together custom drifters for 20+ yrs & they’re all always forever work in progresses. If you’re not that type of tinkerer then even the complete MRC set won’t be just bolt-on fit. Most valuable bits are the injection moulded front arms & steering rack. (Tried 3D printed etc, never the same) Knuckle I think Yokomo’s versions are probably superior geometry; but I tried MRC’s anyway. Balls & ballcups albeit Tamiya bits are sloppier & less secure than Yokomo’s imho - considering just 2 pair (bottom of knuckle) has to bear the weight of the whole front end. Helps to rejig electronics in tub to shift weight rearwards as possible for more rear grip. I’m wanting to rig up a high mount battery tray above the motor. All in all, one big tinker in progress. (I’m also mucking about with Yok YD2s same time.)

Boost & turbo is a racer’s tuning tool when you are ekking the max out of your car on a track doing repeated laps. If just bashing then you lack the constant repetition to tune to. Each motor usually has some static timing sweet spot for efficiency where it hums sweetly whilst drawing less current. Usually this is about 20-30deg on the endbell. Pushing beyond draws more amps for marginally higher revs, but the motor sounds rough & excess heat generated. When gearing for track, motor @ sweet spot can be geared a little higher to makeup for lost RPM and it’ll still run cooler. Most of the lap infield motor is running at lower revs anyway, only max rpm when on straight. Mod open racers these days usually *de*tune their settings for better drivability with single digit winds. Modern BLs are so crazy overpowered there’s no way any 4WD on or off-road can put down true full power. For bashing, I’d just set ESC to blinky and the motor to 20-30degs. If you can get hold of a dynamic motor tester, it’s trial & error to find each motor’s peak efficiency point (albeit free revving no load).

what’s hitting belt cover, bolt or nut? the M3 bolt shouldn’t stick out above the nyloc nut afaik

Yep I have MRC kits for both TT01 & TT02 Have also cribbed together a TT02 with most of the Yeah Racing blue RWD bits.

the original Jugg tranny casings didn’t have enough support for the gear axles so they chewed out revised care pack parts have beefier support, bigger bearings too I think & some dinky heat sinks

... “slightly modified”

TBG make a few AE-clones I believe, eg TOJ.

well if you really want the very “strongest brakes” flash the jumper to F/R Nothing like full reverse to haul on the anchors just like when we raced with MSCs.

Straight line or around a sand dune course? Proline makes a whole gamut of sand paddle tyres & dare say there’s likely plenty of sand dune RC action over in the UAE middle east. Probably more bashing than racing tbh.

heck yes, that’s Maezumi Satoshi san aka Paizen RC. He’s pretty much front face of Tamiya’s RC socials lately fronting up the vlogs & lives, hobby trade fairs etc Quite a few T product badged with “MS” in his trademark pink/blue/white livery whilst he was an active TRF racer.