WillyChang

It's a nitro M-chassis! Late 1990s First released by HPI as Nitro RS4 Mini, but they'd usually more purple with black bumper not red afaik... but there were some clones of very similar design, think by Colt if not others.

19803150 Tamiya AXLE GEAR SET (MB10, MB13 X2; MB11 X4) 19803148 CUP JOINT (MB13 X2). Tamiya CUP JOINT (MB13 X2) 19803149 WHEEL AXLE (MB14 X2) 9115480 RC R PARTS: 58660 Anybody successful in buying ALL those parts together, outside of Japan? How much would they add up to?

I think there's a new sprue for "halo/body mount", dunno if it's the same as what's used on WR02CB. The WR02 has pseudo "chassis rails" bars that go on the sides of chassis, the GF01 doesn't but with minor fettling these "chassis rails" (which are supplied in kit, not used) can be grafted onto GF01. They don't really do anything useful as they're not required to locate the body posts, they just make GF01 look more like WR02 cosmetically.

Bought my Sabre in 1987, first batch. Wasn't planning on buying Sabre specifically, was wanting a Boomerang (because it was cheaper than Hotshot & tub more accessible) but the Super Sabre just appeared that week I went into LHS. Yay me. Moved to oz. For many years Sabre was my main runner & racer. Broke & woreout most parts red bits harder to find than Boomerang bits, so it started turning a bit blue. Then this vintage RC obsession started, after 1999 I begun collecting Sabre parts whenever they turned up... thanks to the interwebs have collated all the required bits... ended up restoring it back to all-red. But couldn't bring myself to replace serviceable bits like original body, tub etc... they've got real memories to match the patina. Along the way before reres appeared, acquired both a used Boomerang & used Sabre, possibly for parts donors... but ended up restoring those too. Again their bodies were still usable... so haven't cracked the seals on my NIB Sabre bodyset. Hotshot rere appeared... yay fresh arms! Boomerang rere appeared, hoarded more black bits "just in case". Don't know why, heck parts don't take much room when stuffed into empty space inside kit boxes, so why not. Do I paint a NOS bodyset and use NOS red bits to build a rere Boomerang? Hmm... no, it don't feel quite right. How about doing a new-build using all NOS bits? I could... but I don't really need another shelfqueen, do I? Let's be honest, it would never be run as I already have used runners. And a built car takes more space than a pile of bits. Rinse & repeat dilemma with every other iconic model I chased Bruiser, M38, Avante... to name just a few.

Well, that's one of the reasons I'm cheerleading DIY 3D manufacturing. Also don't forget RIGHT TO REPAIR... all of you better start championing Right To Repair real soon if you aren't already. Big Corp & their minions are chomping hard to stop you Repairing the goods you already own, you'll soon lose Right to Repair. They won't sell you parts, they won't sell you schematics, they'll try hardest to make it illegal for other 3rd parties to sell you parts or repair services... so much for Reduce Reuse Recycle - it's all BS vs $$$.

As in discontinuation of the specified paint (eg PC bottles)? Or the actual banning release of VOCs from rattlecans & other non aqueous solvents... because the way the Greenies & climate change scaremongers are going, that ban might be coming sooner than we'd care to anticipate. Everything might need to be prepainted at factory or repairshop with approved fume extraction that traps and collects all the VOCs etc etc

Are you talking AUD or USD? AUD is weak against USD now (67c ish) RCmart is too expensive nowadays, their shipping has gone to USD$60-70 easy... not that long ago it was only $30-35 and it'll arrive downunder in 4-7d; last parcel I bought took 2-3wks. At the same time our LHSes whinging to distributor/Shizouka about mailorder undercutting them... well they've definitely become more competitive pricewise (or has RCmart been made to jack up their rates?). Main issue now is still needing to wait 2-3mths after they appear in Japan (then SEAsia the week after) and first batch sells out quick. RCmart has listing for Frog at US$140 (that's A$200ish). Airmail for that is $57; total $197 is A$294. Oz streetprice A$195-250ish. So yeah, local buying is worthwhile... before they pull their stupid stunts "sorry but if you buy from online store we must ship to you. We don't care if you've actually arrived and standing right here instore wanting to collect, your order is sitting right there ready to be parcelled and not yet posted..." after which it takes further 10d to turn up (yeah we're talking local snailmail. Geez.) Ferchristssake... I owe them no favours, no qualms about mailordering from Walters interstate. Definitely for A$195+22 from Walters vs LHS for $245+petrol.

I've painted outside on balcony whilst there's a rainstorm going on... had a long extension cord all the way out to power the hairdryer used between coats. Had to paint multiple coats of 3 colours, had to be done in time for next mornings trackmeet. But oz cold wouldn't be anything like Canadian cold old schoolmate was showing thermometer reading -43degC on his balcony in recent weeks. Snowflakes are so solidly frozen there you just shake them off your jacket before entering indoors, your clothes dont even get damp.

Lotsa sheep too, so I'm told profitable trade, farmers were rich back then But NZ isn't part of SEAsia it's Oceania & Pacific. Whats the history of T distributorship in NZ? Thought Ron O'Donnell (ToyTraders in Oz) might be the first guy knocking on their doors for foreign country distribution rights, unless he got beaten to it by Richard Konstam (Riko in UK). Was Trevor Bringans far behind? This would be mid 1970s.

D'OH!!

The Tamiya one should be Cheaper!!

Only when racing becomes Australian Touring SUVs...!? Nobody buying Aussie 4dr sedans anymore, last remaining survivor Commodore soon to be killed off to join the dead Falcon/Pintara/Magna/Valiant/P76/Austin1800. Today's F1 has lost its magic too.

No it's a trade (only) fair, not a public event. It's always held in January, first show of the year around the world. Attendees go there to hobnob with colleagues and meet-n-greet all their industry peers, plan orders for the year etc. typically pretty much everything is booked in by April/May then production starts, stock gets shipped out Sept/Oct in time for leadup to Xmas toy shopping frenzy. Toy trade is both exciting and boringly monotonous. RC & plastic models are only a tiny part of the show. Everything else that's marketed to kids & family entertainment is at the show too... it's huge. I'm told the floor space of the arena is at least 20 football pitches in area. Where would you find such big wide empty space in Germany? uhh yeah... ever remember seeing historical photos of Adolf & his party gatherings?? Yep, same Nuremberg! /today's trivia

Hiding somewhere behind the Baja is at least a foursome of Bruisers plus a brace of Slashes & Blitzes... and I've still got an Inferno stashed somewhere. Tragic... That's not the only crazy space hogging hobby I've acquired... Drift trikes are bigger than Bajas. Cellos are bigger than Bajas. Bicycles are bigger than Bajas. Music keyboards are bigger than Bajas. Old computers are bigger than Bajas. And Lego. Shoot, don't mention the Lego.

Yeah that's how I run them in. Degrease totally then spin them up. Once run in (doesn't take long) they'll keep spinning for a fair few seconds after the air has stopped. Buy 1150s by the box... process them in bulk... there might be a couple every batch that don't feel 100% right. Put them aside; I might not use them in drivetrain but there's other places they can be useful - steering, guide rollers, wheelie bar etc A boxful of 1150s don't last that long. Barely 4 TL01s worth

eww...! Wild Saurus miles better!

GF01CB!!

hey fellas... it's a GF01CB!!! FOUR WHEEL DRIVE!!

oooh Reinforced parts for SW01, Neato. And the SRB Ball Diff is back... mk2! yay

Clean all the grease out & reassess... sometimes they're bad from factory. Power drill don't work fast enough I stick 1150s on a tapered wooden rod (aka takeaway chopstick!!) and give them a blow... with airline from aircompressor! They'll be whirring at supersonic speeds sometimes the bad ones can explode but that's ok, they don't belong in your car.

with CCVT gearbox? Meh MiniZ is cool too, looks like all new chassis not a rehash of old Monster truck MiniZ from 20yrs ago. Theres also a Jimny Sierra body, wonder if it's shorter wheelbase. Good timing, I was just missing my tiny Losi micro crawler. It's great fun crawling over the couch & lounge regret selling it. Or I think I sold it haven't seen it for years, but don't remember who could've bought it. Hmm...

Seen a lot similar. Did a few myself. Wouldn't be prepainted as they'd have gotten the Marlboro colours right way round kiddies today wouldn't recognise what's Marlboro, Lucky Strike, 555 B&H nor JPS eh? So sad...! If you're certain you used Tamiya PC paint in the squat glass 23cc bottles you're in luck... I soak them in methylated spirits and after a while the paint goes wrinkly and you can start persuading it to fall off with a toothbrush. The spirits gets coloured too so something's dissolving but it never all just disappear. Can't buy PC anymore today though. Don't bother with Liquid Masking, it's more trouble than it's worth if you don't know what you're doing. Paint it too thin & it's impossible to peel clean. When you cut it with a blade you'll score the lexan, which then becomes weak points... (wanna hear about the Mini Cooper shell with different coloured fenders... that all broke off at first bump? ) And that latex stinks like vomit or turned milk. Might not be able to paint white if the red has dyed the lexan. Hard to say before you've stripped it all off. I mainly strip to repaint in same colour; for colour change I'd rather start painting a fresh shell.

Heck yeah!! Lexan will dissolve in acetone. Just the fumes alone will make lexan uncurl and flatten itself back into a sheet of jelly... (don't ask how I know) Did u paint it yourself? Looks handbrushed. 30yrs ago Tamiya PS spray was just coming in, that is a hard acrylic enamel - pretty much nothing dissolves that once cured. Before that there were PC pots of paint which were more latex, they dried to a slightly rubbery texture. Other companies were similar - Pactra, MrColor, Parma etc You can try methylated spirits as the strongest alcoholic solvent, it'll affect PC paint. (Only in recent years T gave us "Polycarbonate Body Cleaner", this solution is the only thing that actually works for PS... wet a rag with it & rub & rub & rub... & rub. Also it comes in tiny bottle, ain't cheap.) Some report using nitro fuel (yeah STALE fuel ok) or DOT3 brake fluid, but imho they can make lexan go cloudy. Others say Pactra ELO (Easy Lift Off?) or various graffiti cleaners but I've never tried those. Don't use caustic alkali like oven cleaner or drain unblocker. Paint crumbles off, lexan looks clear.. then lexan fractures & crumbles too.

unlikely... SW01 (aka mini lunchbox) would need to be something blocky... something more Rubix cube than a Volvo even Whats that beige little mini 4WD thingy called... it didn't have any RC or larger version, it held 2 spare AAs on the body. Wild Saurus? i keep thinking of that

thought Grastens got awoken by the paparazzi hoards... when Her Maj exported her favourite red haired grandson and his beloved new wife off to the polar bear colonies?