WillyChang

They did come in 2 if not 3 sizes.

Nice to see you back & actively modeling matey!

You’ll usually have to change either servo to a different brand... certain brands run one way vs signal others opposite. Or if you use a >2CH fancy computer radio, you can ditch the Y-lead and setup “mixing” to an available aux channel eg CH3. At really basic setting it can be straight mirroring or you can set %:% and reversing if needed.

Electronics real estate is sparse on stock Mid... you might have to stick that huge VXL ESC outside the shell Sensored brushless systems are usually nicer to drive in pedigree race cars. Mid doesn’t need crazy power to be fun. Even a hobby wing 1060 and a mild brushed motor is ample.

Those tyres aren’t stock kit jobbies? They look a bit flat/square, I thought Jugg had some more balloony shaped treads. My Jugg still lives in its kit box

Seems to have a Suby STi stablemate eventually too. Pity T hasn’t planned for any further batches of comicals in their current production scheduling.

they didn’t have the JIS “dot”?

Shine a torch from below the shell. If your paint is really so thick (UNLIKELY) you cannot make out shadow of the sticks above, get a stronger torch!

yeah they just boxed the CAL & DTM kits together & called it SO Our local Yok race team used to do their own tinkering, any improved designs they’d relay back to japan & few wks later we'd see some new official part. Imho that process has slowed down since they’ve moved on. Here in AU it depends which state you live. Melbourne seems to favor Yok & Team Assoc. Yok has beautiful machining but boy do we pay for beauty. Whereas Asso makes functional bits & maybe about 20% cheaper; you might have to do more work making bits fit right. Up north you’ve got Xray, Losi etc Any main brand car you can make competitive I’m sure; it’s a bit easier having same car as a Works team at your track who’s happy to share their speed tips.

What exact radio gear r u using again?

Quit bickering kiddies. WONDER Dogfighter (834) SUPER Dogfighter (870) More intriguingly... has Yok really ceased “pro” off-road racing lately? Since last yr’s YZ2 & YZ4 got repackaged into SO & MO... only new(ish) off-roader they’ve offered us is the RO Rookie (plastic version of YZ2). All Yok’s push in recent months has been “beginner” stuff then hopping up your RO to... wait for it... alu bits. meh All I hear from our local fast boys is they’re decamping to other brands.

soz my bad, W-I’d links show plug as std Tamiya plug so they must be full-size 1/10 packs

Likely because you haven’t got a std RacingPack next to them for perspective? wish pic was wider to show the plug at end of wire, that’ll tell more what uses it TamtechGear not Tamtech... Tamtech 1/24th takes tiny square Tampack which is made of 1/2 AA cells I think TamtechGear is the 1/16th GB01/02 GT01. Cells probably 1/2 A. Although the NiMH packs for TTG are ladder not twin sticks but either should fit.

they’re for the smaller TamtechGear range

Some of the ahem more-age-experienced modelers with arthritic joints do like these adapters. You can buy them at any paint supplier or good local hardware store. Same with dual action airbrushes, if your digits are stiff then they start preferring single action or trigger type hand pieces.

Yep. You can plug the (provided) switch lead in & it’ll take over; leave the port empty & Totem stays live on. Neat little unit, well priced too.

yep Stepside Hilux kit exclusive It was also sold as sparepart 5160/50160. Does it fit Blazer? Thought it might’ve interfered with body shell drivers footwell.

Btw these RMs with BlackMotor are surprisingly fast on 6c 7.2V... scarily fast since they don’t handle as well as modern designs. (Modern 1/12s today run 1s 3.7V lipo I think; before that they raced 4cell nimh I believe) An easy solution would be to make a 5c or even 4c ladder pack of subCs & run the car gracefully 5c 6.0V can power RX direct.

No, yes, maybe... In the dinosaur era radio gear expected 6.0V (4xAA) and anything more would release the magic smoke. When RM1/2 came along, T I think gave us a little voltdropper diode so we could lose the AAs and hardwire RX to the MSC. (However the diode simply dropped ~0.7Vish from whatever it was fed; so when your nicad started dumping below 6V your RX would brownout. Car runs away if MSC is not in neutral or brake. ) You can buy fancier circuitry aka Battery Eliminator Circuit that was smarter than the simple diode. (These says they call them Voltage Regulators, good for lipos to power your RX) Some radiogear in the 90s built-in the BEC and would have “BEC” badge on the RX case. You could run these direct to the 7.2V, it’ll regulate to 6.0V to feed servos. Ergo... your RX is modern. BEC functionality disappeared when makers started building tinier RXes & ESCs got ubiquitous. You can read the RX specs & many today “can” survive being fed 7.2V (but not 8.4V) however they might not regulate the power to 6.0V downstream... so your servos go up in smoke.

Do rear axle too. Should be all 1150. Generic BBs so cheap today why risk wearing out irreplaceable axles? The kingpin bearings aren’t that rare either, think they’re 630 size. Not necessity but I just like maximizing T’s cool design ideas.

that wirewound MSC had already been reused in about a dozen models by then I think it first debuted in the Countach LP500 kit #5!! (RA1205)

ok no diff std https://www.rcgrabbag.com/tamiya-datsun-280zx-rm-mk-2-1980/

yeah, believe that first appeared on Kamai Golf #RA1025 Golf also had nice lightweight nylon front kingpin mounts but T decided to design that huge lump of grey plastic & potmetal for the RM1 Lola instead only benefit is adjustable castor & the kingpins can be ballbearinged. RM2 Datsun kit was slightly lower spec than RM1 Lola; but you could buy hopups like the Black Motor and the Lola’s fancier fwd/brake MSC to spec up. Ditto the extra ball bearings; I’m not sure about the big chunky diff though - did Datsun get that as std?

Your glow ignitor battery isn’t giving enough juice to light the plugs. Unless the coil is broken (= open circuit) it should always glow Plugs can still go bad if the precious metal plating (catalyst) has worn off the coil; on an old used plug obviously. Engine will start fine when igniter is attached, dies when removed. Brand new plugs can also be bad out of packet if the fail to seal. If the plug ain’t airtight your compression ain’t happening.

I think 280ZX body set did make some limited reappearance as a Japanese model show special sale item late 90s maybe 20-25yrs ago now. Then later got upcycled onto a M05 kit (yeah FRONT wheel drive!)... looks like more than 1 kit too