WillyChang

Looks ok (u painted?) black. I've got some NOS sprues of the old red parts in WildOne stash... but the old red looks deeper than the re-re red bits. Couldn't decide to "waste" a NOS new set of red parts on rere & too tired to be bothered stripping half the car to swap over every red bit... instead ended up packing the rere back into its empty kitbox. Run an original instead.

If I have to use the plastic mount on that generation of gearboxes, I swap to machine thread screw... think you can get a slightly longer screw in there, 12mm if not 16mm. Feel for depth of hole. But yeah, alloy mount is better. Cheap aftermarket mount works well enough, don't need the original hopup. If the mount doesn't come with the direction key (mount is not the same if flipped 180deg) compare motor hole locations & work out which way should face Up; then I engrave on it Up on top & an arrow pointing towards front on the bottom side. If building a MantaRay I also like an alloy front shock tower. Seem to break a lot of those plastics, and spares only come on a huge whole sprue. One of the popular budget alloy brands made both items in blue alloy... think it's YeahRacing if not GPM. Cheap & works.

Buy proper oldskool 60:40 LEAD:TIN solder if you can, it's much easier to work with. Leadfree stuff is a pain in the butt, needs much higher temps and seems to dry joint a lot more often. Hate it, whenever I need to work on parts already soldered I'll sucker it off & retin with good lead solder.

yeah, pointless video... pretty much Fake News if you'd asked Trump

thought Hermaseta was a saccharine type artificial sweetener meh, doesn't matter... if ever I'm asked to "help" get an engine started that I've no idea who reassembled & I suspect leaks air... I'd give it a few cranks (just to show it ain't starting) then I'll dig up a quart of thick oil and start dousing down every gasketted gap... until the oil has (temporarily!) sealed where's the airleak that's preventing the engine run starting. Engine starts, I'd give it a few revs, shut it down then tell the owner to strip it down, clean it up & reseal every gasket. Hand the soggy dripping mess back to the guy. Yeah that's the pipe that pressurises the tank to help the fuel reach the engine. Yours is just a hole in the manifold, yeah? (Not a nipple) That's got an odd few complications... eg you need a hose that's skinny enough to fit in hole without closing up inside. You're meant to cut tip at a slant, but the angle of the tube should face into the airstream; pointed the wrong way you might cause vacuum instead. Any "silicone fuel tube" will work, any good LHS should sell it off a bulk reel. (Just bear in mind above complication, might have to buy a few types to try.) Might as well add an inline fuel filter whilst you're at it. Any tank will work too, just get whatever that fits. Kyosho often improves the tank with later models but I don't think this 1/10 chassis ever received a tank without screw cap. We've been racing these toys for going on 40yrs to win any race your car first has to finish. Some ppl only know how to build light & fast race cars that only last 1 battery; I build race cars like for multi-hour enduros. There's some tricks to small screws & I rarely even loctite anything, only a certain few specific areas. You may well be OVERtightening your screws... metal screws are elastic, the stretch holds the screw against its threads from loosening. But an overtightened screw stretched beyond its elastic point won't spring back, so you've lost its original ability to hold itself tight. You should try find a mini torquewrench to play with... little M3 bolts barely need 6-10Nm. Once you get a feel for that low level of torque, you might realise you shouldn't even let the screwdriver handle touch your palm. Just held in fingertips is enough.

Those things commonly sold as "RC K&N" are really made for crankcase/gearcase breather filters I'm never convinced they're meant for unrestrictive air intake so I never trust them on an RC. You don't want too much air restriction or your carb tuning would be too rich. Other than the old OPS (disposable paper/plastic/aluminium element) or Delta (corcentina'd thick paper) I've stuck to oiled foam. The later RC foam filters were 2 or 3 stage of different foam densities, I only oiled the inner or middle stage. K&N reOilable filters are a coarse cotton weave, aren't they? The Vokes fitted by MG mentioned above are also a corcentina'd donut of coarse cotton... made in Britain, predates K&N by at least 30yrs...! Filter wash/reOil best fine days before use, not at the track so my pit box usually had a ziplock bag of extra oiled sponges... haven't seen that baggy for many years, wonder where that's disappeared to. Be curious to see how that foam has aged.

The original used 7.2V Racing Pack which fitted snugly with the Tamiya plug routed alongside internally, none of this exiting out the side rubbish. The tub still has the cavity that accomodates the plug; your ESC needs leads long enough to put the plug inside the cavity (under driver figure's wrist). Then needs a shorty or slim battery to give enough clearance for wire alongside. Or corally/bullet plugs soldered with a right angle lead. Still left with the unsightly "mouse hole" on the right side nerfbar though.

Very likely that's it - kerosene in WD40 & 3-in-1 mineral oil ain't kind to rubber (so we've since learnt), likely not kind to foam rubber too. I use 3-in-1 for Afterrun oil... must work, no rust after so many decades Btw when they say "oil your airfilter" they don't mean real liquid oil... it's more Dirt Bike foam air filter oil - it's a thickish (non greasy!) liquid that you soak in, wring out excess then let it air dry. The solvent in the oil evaporates leaving behind a real sticky (coloured!!) coating on the foam. Some swear by K&N Recharge kits (cleaner & fresh oil), I just buy Dirt Bike foam filter oil... think my last bottle is by Castrol, it's a white bottle. Otoh if you're wrenching on an old MG or many other BMC vehicles with an oil pan/bath Air Filter, they DO mean use fresh engine oil; the intake air bubbles thru a pan filled with liquid oil. Meh... upgrade to pancake filters or go up a better model mine came out from factory standard with twin SUs and Vokes filters. How how do you intend to cut your foam? Its not just a plain solid lump cut to cylinder shape. You gotta carve out a cavity in the middle, size of an AA battery. Some have blind end of foam; some are just a foam tube capped at the top by the plastic body. I don't think power tools would work on flimsy foam & carving with heat using a soldering iron might not end pretty.

nah Ground Crusher is by HBX aka HaiBoXing. HBX was indeed one of the early cloners of TL01 Stadium Raider which they called Bonzer and the TL01B Baja King. But that thing is 1/12 and RWD, there's no T equivalent to copy from

Do they come preOiled or dry? Dunno haven't had any go to mush, mine rather go hard then disintegrate into powder when poked. Or when trying to wash out the dirty oil, the sponge reacts with the solvent and expands to thrice the size... and doesn't shrink back after drying. Whoops. Wonder what can be used to DIY make new sponges

Hobbywing Quikrun 1060 any day of the week. Best value bargain out there by far, buy them by the carton if you've got plans for an RC fleet. Although for cars that might only see a 540 or Sporttuned, I might cheapen out and go for its ugly cousin the 1040. It works, I've never felt it get hot in my installations, it's sometimes found for half the price of Hobbywing... money talks!

that's the one with the silly uncovered gearbox isn't it? have you come across this? Some kind soul Noodle12/BenjaminArnold has shared these plans on Thingiverse... gear https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3237733 and... a cover for the box!! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3324892 How's that, Ishmael?

Hard to say, but you're right... ever since the new distributor took over, haven't seen the Frog kits restocked in quite a while. Ditto Brat kit too. Just endless Grasshopper & Hotshot kits. Are you buying from LHS? Where do you go? Used to watch Hobbico & these days Walters in Newcastle for indicators of fresh stock arrivals.

And if you need 380-to-540 adaptor plate, maybe the Grasshopper kit can provide. (or is it Hornet kit that will leave that plate free, since Grasshopper uses it. But then you'll have to find a 380, not just steal the Grasshopper's motor.)

If needs be... recently noticed my Mini Lunchbox kit supplies that very adaptor tube to use 540 pinion on 380 motor. Don't need to DIY anymore!

I've never used heat to restore anything don't see how it'll help anything. Only place it might help is for releasing anaerobic threadlock... I'd touch screw with a warned soldering iron. Otherwise heat only helps to kick along chemical reactions afaik, RCs don't have much of that. That brown castor oil gunk that gets baked on is best dissolved with acetone. Lacquer thinners less aggressive, takes twice as long. Buy either from paint supplier. Talking of which... that tube of Tamiya Threadlock is great for engine manifold screws it's a Solvent glue (solvent evaporates leaving behind gooey compound) not anaerobic Loctite (cures "without oxygen" to hold the threads... BUT RELEASES WHEN HEATED). I shake head when nitro guys whine "don't know why my exhaust keeps falling off, I've loctited the screws!!"... Loctite also takes a while to cure, like Overnight...! Again you see parts falling off cars at the track and they complain "I've just replaced that & I used lots of Loctite!!" ... yeah matey, like just 5mins ago & you're running the car already. For trackside repairs I threadlock with superglue or Tamiya threadlock - it's a temporary fix, grabs instantly & works well enough to complete days racing. My Loctite tube stays on workbench, I don't even bother carrying it to the track. As for fuel... meh can't be too fussy on kiddy pocketmoney when these things were new. Cheaper fuel means more play for your buck. My little Kyosho has the early OS engine... OS run on anything... I've even run OS on pure methanol with a dash (10%ish?) of castor oil, that's it. You don't even need nitromethane, it just makes it run/START easier & gives a crisper pickup. If just running around the park better pickup doesn't matter. More important than fuel... is preventing Air Leaks anywhere in the system. Every interface on engine, I will RTV all the gaskets when reassembling. You cannot expect engine to stay in tune if you're losing vacuum anywhere. Same with exhaust pressure to the fuel tank, any air leak loses all your pressure. Check the hose, check the tank lid seal... and most notorious is that silly push-plunger to "prime" the engine. That often leaks pressure (bad o-ring) and noobs usually flood their engines by overpriming... it's evil, you're better off removing & sealing the hole with a screw. Or swap to a tank with springloaded fliptop (I hate screwcap tanks). The fuel supply line itself, pinholes can develop undetected so use good silicone hose. I like to hoseclamp every connection... a few loops of wire tie, or Dubro sells tiny springclips. When the whole system is airtight and engine has healthy compression, turn it over & it'll generate strong vacuum that draws in the fuel pretty quickly - don't need no priming gizmo.

No, no & no. The portal parts are meant to be bolt-on for cars with TL01 type suspension. CC02 (nor CC01) don't use TL01 type suspension. Guy in video only briefly screwed the fronts onto the CC02 c-hubs but couldn't get steering link to fit. No easy way of bolting on portals to the CC02's rear live axle.

Tamiya introduced portals on Dynahead G6-01TR in late 2018. Then the first 4-wheeled kit to get portals is GF-01TR Monster Beetle Trail in mid 2019.

yeah, which truck exactly? burgundy truck in pic is GMC not even a Furd nor F350 is it? Got a local friend here who loves Escalades and GMC Denalis... geez all are HUGE the 'Laid is like a loungeroom on wheels. The Denali has the neatest flatbed too... could open the hatch in the back and the bed would extend into the dualcab for longer cargo. btw I'm downunder in Australia, we drive on the Correct side of the road here so these Yankee yachts need to be converted to RHD. By the time you do conversion and compliance they're about triple the price, so he's looking at A$200-250k. And our petrol is A$1.50+/litre (=a buck US$) so his fetish don't come cheap.

meh, you might wanna photochop those colours to mockup before breaking out the paints. You'll just have a pink Frog... IMHO it don't look too good in mostly all pink. Had a wreck once that somebody's painted all pink, even the wheels were pinked. Ugh, it's a Frog not a Pig (insert relevant Kermit inside Miss Piggy joke here). Happy 10th Birthday to LSM's thread!

Don't see why not Those "tributes to TT01" come about when China companies start copying parts into alloy and carbon plate to sell as hopups. Before long somebody realises they've copied every part already and there's enough to build a full car. The "good" thing with that type of car is (vs a totally generic RC chassis), if your fake gears etc don't drive smooth, you've got the option of buying original parts & hopefully they'll drop in fit. Nobodys copied the F350 body yet afaik. The old Hilux/Bruiser otoh, there's the RC4WD Mohave & the China Bruiser clone for body donors. Look on fleaBay and there's generic hard bodies of Jeep Wrangler, Landrover 110 etc These days with the growing scale crawler crowd we're blessed with many other hard bodies available, some done in low volume with eyewatering prices... but they're pieces of art. Anything in particular you're after?

what @Juggular says is true... But anything to watchout for is "AutoSetup" on modern ESCs, especially ones that immediately go into Setup mode every time it's turned on. It might recalibrate itself to think EPA50% = Full Throttle again. The other thing is... running amongst a fleet of several similar RCs takes average kid about 2mins before he/she starts wondering why their car is going slower than the others... and they'll start pushing buttons on TX soon as your eye turns away. (None of my computer radios have a passcode-lockable Settings menu. Ain't too many simple radios I've seen with just a knob for Ch2 EPA either, or better still EPA without a knob that little kiddy fingers can access.) Best gizmo IMHO is Traxxas ESCs, they've got Learner function https://traxxas.com/products/parts/escs/3018Rxl5waterprooflvd XL5 is neat, not super cheap to buy new in box but last time I looked there's chopshops on fleaBay that strip RTRs for parts - usually less demand for the RTR ESC & servo so they resell for reasonable prices. YMMV!

Line the body to protect with aluminium foil tape. Make a heat shield with sheet metal... eg cut up a coke can Lexan gotta be heated to at least 150degC before anything goes bad, wouldn't worry too much. Even with nitro cars & their hot exhausts... don't see much damage on the lexan from touching hot engine parts, it'll usually be lost paint rather than melted. If 540 ever got to 150degC on the OUTSIDE of the can... I'd be more worried about the ABS chassis melting. The motor screws will probably cut thru the chassis

Nope. Screw hole location different. Need some form of adaptor plate. Motor pinion shaft smaller. Need some form of "tube" spacer for 540 pinion or different pinion. Electrons are agnostic, they don't discriminate. The vital specs are voltage and (max) current. Brushed motors aren't too fussy, 380 runs fine on same volts as 540. Smaller motor smaller current so ESC for 540 will enjoy easier job.