WillyChang

o wait... is the 'shaft' bit located on the pullstart's cord reel? And that oneway bearing is connected to the engine crankshaft? ok that'll be the less-common design then. Later designs have the shaft spinning with the crankshaft; bearing sits on the cord reel. It shouldn't really be called a "bearing" as it doesn't "carry/bear" anything... it's more a oneway "clutch" like a ratchet or the freewheel hub on a bicycle. Shouldnt be too much drag when it's freewheeling otherwise you'll sap the engine power & cause friction=heat and things wear out. Its always a fight between how much you lube that oneway vs it gets too greasy to grip the shaft. The old design which sits oneway inside the engine (in the path of oily fuel mixture) gives less control over how much to lubricate. Later design with oneway outside engine is easier to degrease (by squirting in solvents) when it slips. If it's been inside the crankcase, which was full of gunk... oneway probably still gunked up. Soak in aggressive solvent until every one of those roller pins is loose - they'll rattle around in their cage. If they won't shake under their own weight they're still gunked up; they need to freely move to cam into the shaft to grip.

Here's all the manuals for every chassis... https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm

The bearing must grab the shaft it rides on; Either the rollers are jammed in their slots or the shaft has worn undersized.

Or you can play mix & match with TA01/02 parts Start with a TA01 tub (longer than TA02 tub) and bolt on rear touring arms from TA02 (which don't sweep forwards like TA01 arms). That should get wheelbase up to ~280mm at a wild guess.

Yep. With just a whole HighLift kit... you won't be able to slam the body so low... it got big chunky diffs & a ladder chassis... even of you directly bolted the axles to the chassis you'd be needing to cut a big sunroof and the HighLift motor & gearbox will be sticking out top. You're best start with a touringcar chassis, much lower profile. F350/Clod/Bruiser body is longer than std touring car (257-260mm vs 285-290mm). You can do some styrene surgery (at the bed easiest) to lose that inch. Or settle for a std length touring size truck body... back when I hung around the drift crew, the StreetJam Hilux was highly sought after - everybody slammed it low. Simpler shaftdrive cars like TT01 could be cut & rejoined an inch longer too. Or buy a Yokomo pro drift chassis like DiB LongWheelbase which should be around 290mm. The yok suspension also gives lots of opportunity to crank in "demon camber" to tuck under a ~200mm wide bodyshell.

No the inner ring is the outer part of oneway bearing afaik, it's a cage to hold those cylindrical roller bearings. It won't spin, usually it's hex shaped to key into its surrounding housing. Put the shaft in, the cylindrical rollers will grab the shaft oneway & not grab going the other way. The outer big ring is just a housing IMHO, part of the pullstart. (Kyosho would buy in the oneway bearing from outside manufacturer. But they'd make the housing.) Oneway bearings usually fail when they don't grab the shaft. Have never seen them fail by seizing onto the shaft. Not impossible but unlikely.

heck yeah back where & when I grew up, just a basic kit eg Hornet was about a week's average salary Radio gear with 2 servos, another week's. Battery & charger, 3rd week. Paint? Bearings? A dozen AAs? You're up to a month's wage. RC in the 70s & 80s were pretty elite hobby, only really affordable for "average" kids in a few countries. Pretty much limited to Japan, Singapore, Hong Kong, Australia in SEAsia. Kids from neighbouring countries would drool.

Yeah. right. Sure... we'll soon fix that. Here is not RC Anonymous.

Umm... start with a TT01/2, not a HighLift?

Child of the 80s! What a young chappy We got RCs older than Juls

definitely a wild one alright OP & his friend could join a knitting circle instead.

My LHS is sneaky, they stack the TRX4 right next to the blue-n-red-twinstar boxes do I cannot miss them... Sport is tempting as it'll be nice to build it myself but dammit I want those remote locking diffs!! And that'll be a US$140 (=A$210 at least) upgrade which then adds up dearer than A$820 RTR. The easy solution is to procrastinate & boycott buying anything

Landy looks nice. Maybe Bronco. FJ40 a bit meh only because too common. Pricewise they're not too bad, T is never going to be cheap. Rcmart is US$190 vs USD$260 for a CR-01. Downunder we're looking at A$350, not cheap by old standards but against current price of a CC01 is A$270 (green unimog) to A$360 (black FJ40) is downright reasonable. TRX-4 is asking A$820 full set or A$680 for the chassis kit.

wow... I just googlemapped Norfolk Island as my geog is weak... it's an isolated little Isle in the Tasman sea pretty much midway (~3000km to either) between Brisbane & Auckland!! So begs the Q, what were you little boys doing there?? were your families working/living there or just holidaying there?

Send it for 3D scanning!

It's probably designed for that... only place that won't overtax it's suspension heck maybe I should've added brushless motor and lipo to the PowaKaddy... and maybe a "follow me" remote controller... then might be able to finish 18 holes in under 2hrs or me losing attention/patience, whichever comes sooner.

we're still waiting on the Ranger ... or did T sneak that out during the year when I wasn't looking?

Are LEDs any dimmer? TLU-01 has its own kind of switching routine to limit voltage/current to its LEDs, maybe it's more tolerant to lower input volts by itself. We were playing with TLU-02 and got some funny responses when powering off a 4xAA pack... seem to resolve itself when fed 7.2V. If you're ok with soldering, converting the TLU power lead to Deans is simple. Or just tack it onto the ESC's main plug. If you run lipo then there's always the balance plug too buy some matching connectors, I sometimes plug in external BECs through there... handy for powerhungry winches etc

Y'know, always thought a golf course fairway would be the PERFECT runway for an RC plane...! have yet to tick that off my bucket list... closest I've gotten is driving a CC01 on the green. Wow 1983... yeah $300 is serious dough for a toy car. Think you could buy a new 1:1 Holden Commode for like $10-12k then; average wage wouldn't be far off same. Back in the 80s the rural farmers were still very rich & most LHS did a heap of MailOrder sales out to the country. Or they'd send in a S.S.A.E. for the catalogue or price list, then mum or dad or farmhand might go visit the store when they're next visiting the city for supplies or banking. Manufacturing, mining, agriculture - Australia had it all. What happened to it all...? "Lucky Country" indeed.

Futaba S3003 is the standard bearer... don't stress, it works & is adequate for WR02. It's not a crawler, you don't need to steer when it's stationary - 40oz is more then enough to steer a 2WD 1/10. Std S3003 works; sometimes I go S3001 for its ballbearing shaft but it still works the same. (however you'll need to mod the Futaba plug to fit some RXes) For a budget buy, Hobbyking housebrand servos are just as good for fraction of price. HS15138 is deadringer S3003 clone https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-hk15138-standard-analog-servo-4-3kg-0-17sec-38g.html or the waterproof one https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-waterproof-analog-servo-3-2kg-0-17sec-40g.html although I've yet to drown any servo For 4WDs I like a little more torque, the HK15288 is great https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-hk15288a-analog-servo-bb-mg-9kg-0-20sec-51g.html or the HK15328A is good too https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-hk15328a-analog-servo-bb-mg-12-8kg-0-20sec-58g.html Metal Gear may be hardier in certain applications but they can also sound rough. Stock S3003 plastic gears survive long enough, spares are cheap so I keep some around but I haven't had to change too many.

Have you seen these ones? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminum-Oil-Shocks-damper-for-tamiya-CW-01-Chassis-Lunch-Box-Midnight-Pumpkin-/141364660060 tag suggests they're commissioned by Hobby HQ (Australian distributor of RC product) but that lot is sold out of Taiwan Interesting design of top cap. If I still had a lunchbox runner I'd be tempted.

Also the older your pack is, the higher its Internal Resistance grows. So when you apply high current drain the old pack's voltage will dip more under heavy load than when that pack was brandnew.

they did call the CW-01 a 1/12th yes, but then again the 2 subjects were fullsize (ie oversized) American van & pickup truck physically they've ended up being about same size as a M-chassis (which started life as a 1/10 of the tiny Morris Mini). But when Lunchbox came out there was no such thing as 1/10 touring cars yet. What dampers are you needing? CVAs are typically "Short" or "Mini" but they can be built to accomodate slightly different lengths in between. Aftermarket shocks usually just get specified by (full extended) length.

nah F&R is same suspension arms F&R are the same, the shocks stand upright at the same angle F&R. The only variant is TA03R can have a lower front tower which needs shorter Super Mini CVAs. TA03 is iconic for its modularity, nothing else comes close (don't say LEGO)

Midnight Pumpkin & Lunchbox series were retrospectively called CW-01