WillyChang

quote:Originally posted by SjoerdThere aren't many women around in Holland (I didn't find one though [] ) who 'play' with RC cars, especially the older ones. id="quote">id="quote">Wouldn't worry about that too much, Sjoerd... its a common problem worldwide!! [] But they can be taught... [] Good luck.

quote:Originally posted by DJTheoThis equation is soo true and mature... I am impressed! [] id="quote">id="quote">Don't sweat it too much, Theo. Its just one of those that keep going around the Web, keeping the geeks amused. And back in my pre-Mosaic uni days (daze?), we engies just swapped jokes via the photocopier. [:I] (betcha someone's gonna ask... "What's Mosaic?")

Kerrhrist!! [V] You're right, TR... this guy is SO UP HIMSELF, HE'S ALL THE WAY TO CHINA!!! Who else would go post 'response' to each and every feedback?!?! [)] Wotta clown... quote:FEEDBACK HUMOUR??!id="size3">id="red">Praise : nice calander smooth transaction Response- Smooth Scammer ..., they were cute & natural in 1968, Hef is proud of us. Praise : Not a scammer at all- AAAAAA great ebayer!! Response- 'thescammer' name creates a sense of excitement and danger, it enhances the sale Praise : fast,professional,friendly.quality items.recommended.thanks. Response- Its the influence of the Santana Karma N' Tone. Call me the Shaman of Sales. Praise : Our customers are the best ebayers around. Fast payment..good emails! Response- Like I said, Only Gibson is Good Enough, nice item, prompt delivery. Praise : Our customers are the best ebayers around. Fast payment..good emails! Response- Like I said, Only Gibson is Good Enough, nice item, prompt delivery. Praise : Great seller!; mint condition catalogue!!!!!!!!!! Response- Only Gibson is Good Enough, ..sshh..I also play Fender, don't tell any one! Praise : Great transaction!; mint condition guitar catalogue!!!!!!!!!!!! Response- Condition, condition, equivalent to a 33 year old virgin, thats how mint! Praise : Great ebayer!; absolutely mint condition guitar catalogue!!!!!!!!!!!!! Response- Condition, condition, equivalent to a 33 year old virgin, thats how mint! Praise : Top-notch seller! Fast shipment!! Great eBayer! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! Response- The pleasure was all mine, Mr. Hefner would be very proud of us. Praise : FROM FLORIDA TO ARIZONA- FAST SERVICE,GREAT ITEM & WELL PACKED. A++ Response- The pleasure was all mine, Mr. Hefner would be very proud of us. Praise : Ligntning fast payment, great to deal with, Thanks from RcChopShop(dot)com! Response- Not just lightening fast, I'm known for stomping & muddin' Blackfoot style. id="quote">id="quote">

quote:Originally posted by SjoerdI just had a very big deal for 7 cars and my parents had to drive me all the way. This one is a bit closer though, bit still a pretty big trip. They promised me not to do that again for me... [xx(] id="quote">id="quote">Ooohh, not being able to drive would be a REAL PAIN!! [] Dunno how I would have gone trying to convince anyone else to drive me 450kms [:0] (luckily it started out a pretty nice Sat'day) to collect a toycar... let alone then giving one the $$ to buy it with. You must make a real convincing salesperson, Sjoerd! []

If its a "pak - pak - pak" (like cracking your knuckles) sound then that's veru likely to be the slipper clutch... however it is unadjustable. Cleaning it *might* help a little. The other possibility is that the 2 sliprings, where they touch the nylon slipper gear, might have worn out at that position. They only grip 1mm on each side, so there isn't much meat to live on. But if you get this sound it isn't as loud as the first, but usually doesn't last very long before all the teeth disappear and you have no drive. [xx(] The white stuff is probably just Tamiya silicone sealant (applied on the outside?), don't be too scared to remove it. The slipper clutch can be removed by just removing the gearbox's 1st segment (motor mount), the nylon gear doesn't/shouldn't run in oil.

The only thing WD40 has successfully removed for me is paint from Tamiya's paintpens. It doesn't seem affect any other Tamiya paint once its cured. This is WD40 from a spraycan; I only recently discovered WD40 can be bought in liquid non-pressurised jerrycans, dunno if this makes any difference.

Dunno about you folks, but hear it from the horse that Singapore's economy isn't going the best at the moment. Its been downhill pretty much last 3 yrs and the techwreck didn't help either. Unemployment is pretty darned high and besides, average starting wages there are in the region SGD2000-2500 per month (US$1400?). It would be pretty hard finding US$113k to blow on frivolous items in these "CASH IS KING" times. But ever optimistic, I too wait and see. []

Gee whiz, there are questionmarks abound when one sees something like this:- http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...item=1782703677 Would one be buying a full kit, or just THE BOX??!? Not sure either if I'd want to be dealing with anyone stupid enough to use a name like that. [xx(]

CL:- headsup on this, just spotted it, gotta b quik!! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...1781254598&rd=1

Nah, offer only for NIB kits!! [][][][][][][][][][][] Last Hotshot I stripped took only 4 hrs to strip/clean/rebuild; c'mon Theo, just 1 evening's work. There's not *that* many parts there... its much quicker with a powerdriver. []

quote:Originally posted by DJTheo1 year ago I was a student and had time but no money, now its the opposite... [][][V] id="quote">id="quote">Ahhh, sigh... how true. Same here too!! [] (then again, I *still* got no money today...!) Everything we've got I've labelled "retirement projects". If I haven't gotten around to it next 20-30 yrs then I definitely won't be bored thereafter, huh? [:I]

GENUINE OFFER - TO TAMIYACLUB MEMBERS ONLYid="size2"> Why have useless unbuilt RC kits lying around gathering dust??Send me your NIB kit and I'll help you (1) Build, Paint and (2) Test your RC vehicle for you. I'll send you back a fully working Runner example in within 30 days. Don't forget to enclose Return Postage as well!!! (Paypal, USD & AUD cash accepted) [][][][][][][][][]

Yes you'll save on VAT if you get the shop to post it o/s. Used to order stuff from UK to M'sia; VAT used to be about 7% I think.

Sorry, I didn't mean "TYCO" as in that brand specifically but just referring to other 'non-Tamiya' brands. Most toys which have Proportional RC would generally use a standard AM signal system, so you can often use any other AM TX to run it. Shell looks a little "too tall"... like a tortoise vs terrapin turtle. Tamiya shell is a lot lower/sleeker.

Ooohh , zero fb & "Singapore" too; guess we'll just have to watch & learn. [8)] Not very discriminatory, is he... Boats, Planes, Cars, Trucks. Love the last thing he bid on too $12k for 2016 'bit'-clone cars in 42 cases. Gee whiz, wonder how much the shipping will be from SoCal to S'pore. [V]

And always decant your fuel into a sodapop bottle, and put it exactly where you'll grab for a swig when thirsty... [}][}][}]

Not necessary to trash the cache. If you're running IE, I think the combo is SHIFT+refresh to force not reload from local cache.

Oh, and when soldering caps on... might be an idea to shrinkwrap their legs too. Reduce the risk of the naked legs shorting out against the motor's endbell/can etc - you'll definitely blow a FET if so.

quote: Originally posted by hellbelly I take it it's meant to have capicitors - so what do I have to ask my local electrical shop for? id="quote">id="quote"> The motor capacitors are mainly needed to filter out errant radiowaves generated by the motor, to avoid radio glitching. I've been buying 100uF ones all along, rightly or wrongly I dunno. I don't think the value matters too much - if your radio glitches when the car is running then you might need higher numbers. (But check first that your motor is not all dirty and causing unnaturally big sparks at the comm - sparks are very RF dirty.) Buy only the green polyester 'blob' ones, don't buy anything Polarised (eg electrolytics which are labelled with +ve & -ve) as these will blow up when power is reversed. I use 3 per motor:- use 1 between each of the 2 motor terminals and the can (ground), then put the 3rd between the 2 motor terminals. Depending on your ESC, the ESC might also need a huge 'power' or 'smoothing' cap installed across the motor or battery (read the instructions). This is in ADDITION to the motor caps, do not confuse the 2.

TA04R Option Parts Included Carbon Reinforced Resin Lower Deck TRF Dampers Aluminum Rear Bulkhead Beam Aluminum Servo Stay Universal Shaft Urethane Bumper 5mm Aluminum Ball Connector (10 pcs.) Medium-Narrow Reinforced Tires Type A Medium-Narrow Soft Inner Foam (1 Pair) TA04 Ball Differential Unit TA04 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink On-Road Tuned Hard Spring Set TA04 Color Stabilizer Set (Front) TA04 Color Stabilizer Set (Rear) 4mm Hard Lock-Nut & Spacer Set TA04 Aluminum Hub Set For Spur Gear TA04 Racing Hub Carrier Set TA04 Toe-In Rear Uprights TA04 Low Friction Belt (Front) TA04 Low Friction Belt (Rear) TA04 Carbon Upper Deck Full Bearing Set FROM:- http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58282ta04r/ta04r.htm

quote:Originally posted by chungleongThe shops are pretty much cleaned out as far as old stock is concerned, but seems like the local Tamiya dealer gets their new stock in fairly quickly (after Japan announces it). id="quote">id="quote">Yeah, we know Uncle Tony at TS well. He is very good mates with the Tamiyas, afterall he's been importing their stuff since the 1960s. He brings in containerloads every week or 3; there is very good volume through S'pore, especially since they supply Indo & M'sia as well. I must remember to ask him, next time he's in Japan, to put a good word in re: SandScorcher re-release. [] quote:Not much old stock left for them to jack up the prices anyway! id="quote">id="quote">Nth Bridge Rd is not the culprit, its the smaller shops that "used to" sell Tamiya with boxes of old parts. $10/sprue unbagged that's OK, but when they start dreaming of pricing it at JPY RRP at Y30 = S$1 that's when things get ridiculous. [V] $50 for a Frog bumper?? No thanks. Actually a few yrs back circa 1996 TS had some good chuckouts. Try $99 for a Amigo/Mju kit, they had quite a few too... but I only got there about 2 mths too late, all gone. quote:I'm leaned over on Landscape Architecture. Looking to be there early or mid-2004. id="quote">id="quote">Sounds interesting, sorta like "ID" only outside. [] Word of warning... I know heaps of young S'poreans who've come over for study... and a lot of them end up applying for PR after graduation and staying on!! [:0] At this rate LKY might ban overseas study pretty soon, to stem the braindrain.

quote:Originally posted by chungleongI did drive it for a couple of battery packs to get a setup into it though. On the first few runs I was already getting the tail to step out some, so I think it might work after all. I'm trying to replicate FR-drivetrain in RC seeing that no one else does it. id="quote">id="quote">Are you using 'same' tyres all round? Hmm... maybe we should take a tip from the 1:1 guys too. I notice they all have big fat fancy fronts, but have the skinniest crappy rears; less grip at back might be the key. How come you want 4WD brakes?? Who uses brakes..? []

Not sure about old Hilux/Blazer, but on the later Bruiser/Mounty:- 1) Get a small vice. 2) Grab 2 Tamiya flanged 3mm nuts, put them flange to flange. 3) Put 1 side of the axle pin into the nuts' hole, then compress in vice. Push until the pin is flush with side of the axle ball. Open vice. 4) Grab a tiny M2 x 6mm screw, put that 2mm screw's shank againt the flush pin. Vice using the screw to push the rest of the pin out. 5) Replace bearing(s). 6) Replace pin using vice. NB: thickness of BBs is usually different to the thickness of the bronze bushings that you'll be replacing. You will need to adjust the shimming in the centre where the gear is. Get some 5mm washers to suit, touring car axle shims are handy.

To all who identified it as a component from a 3spd gearbox - Good spotting guys!! [^] Excellent marksmanship. It came in a box of old Mounty bits some yrs back... looking at the wear I'd suggest it was the 1st of the 2 layshafts. The bigger gear must have been running on the nylon spur, thus its relative low wear. Lack of fresh oil and accumulation of metal filings & dirt in the box (very likely on a 'rental' vehicle) could only accelerate wear. Size:- I think the gear is more than 32-pitch, the 3spd uses some pretty chunky gears inside. The 750 motor/spur is 32-pitch though; that's much smaller. Wear:- The little gear is usually the first to wear out I'd think, given its small size and the huge forces put through that tiny angle. Especially on the 1st layshaft which is used in both 1st & 2nd gears. (2nd layshaft only used on low 1st gear). Gear is bronze and is a pressfit onto the 5mm shaft. Imho Wouldn't be hard to remachine even without CADCAM, just time intensive... would you think there is a market for it? How much would it be worth? (would need 2 per gearbox)

Remember guys - these are all toys made to be trashed by kiddies. So regardless of how many were made, its likely that a majority of them would have been used/abused then long since scrapped. Very few of them were bought 'just to be stored away'. They were affordable, yet expensive enough to limit most kids as to how many RC they have/had. They were fun, they were great to showoff to your friends & neighbours (heck, you HAD to play it outdoors) and were an excellent self-promotion in itself. Todays nostalgia brings the 'collectors' back; high prices due to collective demand for the limited stock. Just remember - it *had* to be truly popular (not just a marketing fad) when new, to be popular today. Otherwise (God forbid!) we'd be collecting Cabbage Patch... [xx(]