WillyChang

McChant: "Would you like a Bruiser with that, Sir?" []

Not smart enough to save myself, matey - I can only speak from experience. [] We have half (exactly) a SuperChamp sitting around just because it was "too cheap to refuse"... its been sitting around like that for years now, a "one day I'm gunna do it up" project. [] That said, I don't learn quik either... 'cos shortly after that some kid had a half-dead Willy and I jokingly offered $20 for it... and he ACCEPTED. [V] What to do - have to honour the 'bid' & fork out the twenner and bring home another cu-ft of junk.

You know you're running TOO LEAN when:- 1) the glowplug is glowing red... on the OUTSIDE 2) the glowplug falls out... and the engine is still running! 3) your piston & sleeve become nicely 'anodised' blue 4) the plastic parts on your carb start melting 5) the lexan around your engine start melting 6) the silicone exhaust coupler melts [][]

If its definitely Tamiya PC bottle paint, meths will take it off real easy. The paint partly dissolves, partly comes off as a skin. Had a Boomerang that was brushed with PC orange & green, and it came off too easy.

Imho buy only what you like; if you don't like it then even if its $2 it'll still be too expensive.

quote:Originally posted by SjoerdI see there a a few member who made it this far yet, WillyChang, DJTheo, Chris, mr.lister999... Surprising I am one of the most frequent posters here, never expected that... [8D] (at least I don't make any ridiculous posts, that way i'd be too easy... [] ) id="quote">id="quote">You saying I do, Dutchboy??!? [!] <LOL>

Methinking: nah, eBay will never give an option like that. [!]

Could also consider "auction psychology" is sometimes involved re: high starting prices.

"I will not accept bids from bidders with zero feedback anymore."id="size4"> Hmm... is there an eBay checkbox that can be ticked to disallow zero-fb bidders? Or is it strictly vendor-policed only.

Tamiya's Hilux/Bruiser 4000mAh hardpack is made up of 5 D-cells in a 2+3 saddle configuration. There is room for a 6th cell within the same case/footprint; as standard it is distinctly 'lopsided' in weight distribution. It was quite common to find shrinkwrapped 7.2V 6xD-cell packs for sale back then too. Yes you can charge them on any charger, back then the only worry was about timing-out when using chargers built for 1200mAh humppacks. The custom Tamiya charger for 4000mAh took about 45-50 mins for a charge off 12V ciggielighter. Tamiya's hardpack also has a unique plug, different to 7.2V or 6.0V. It is more similar to, but of different gender, that the 7.2 one.

CA superglue is dissolved with acetone, Theo. Nice quick and easy. CA doesn't really grab to metal anyway, so that shouldn't be so bad. The *worst* on a Bruiser/Mounty is some PO using "permanent" Loctite. Yeah this stuff is oilproof and the only way to release is to heat it with a blowtorch. Took me years to learn, but today I buy only the best #2 philips screwdrivers - usually means pretty expensive, so don't loan them out to anyone. Saves heaps more in the long run, especially if mucking around with aluminium & titanium (Egress) screws. Its handy to have both 10" medium shank and a 3" stubby one.

What paint are you guys removing with nitro fuel?? Just thinking that most of today's lexan spray paints are "fuelproof" and aren't affected by nitro anymore. The closest you'll get that is not 100% fuelproof is Parma Faskolor (its just a little bit affected, so wipe of fuel spills immediately). Whereas Tamiya bottle PC paints are definitely not fuelproof. I just remove it with methylated spirits - much cheaper than nitro.

Well, that's might be what they thought when they brought out the 'new' WildWilly2... but somehow it never caught on, disappointingly. Then again, there's a distinct loss of 'character' on the 1:1 scene too... gee whiz, the Viper is already 10 yrs old and the 'new' one looks just like it. Sign of the (RTR?) times? Everything's becoming "lowest common denominator" bland, and soon all dinners will taste (?) like McDonalds. [xx(]

quote: Originally posted by CarterTG The TA04 Pro is configured just a notch below that but is still nicely outfitted with ball bearings everywhere and a (IMO) sexy carbon fiber plate chassis. This kit uses .04 pitched gears like the TRF414MII. id="quote">id="quote"> Not quite, the PRO's chassis is only FRP not 'real' carbon. Don't tell your friends and none will be wiser... [] You can buy option carbon chassis, also chassis for saddle pack but imho they just work 95% same anyway, so stick with the FRP - its cheaper to replace. TA04 is the first Tamiya TC to use a 'universal' type gear carrier. If you don't want to buy a whole set of .4 metric pitch gears you can easily change the spur to any other brand (HPI, Associated etc) of multifit 32/48/64-pitch spurs to suit your pinions. quote: Originally posted by CarterTG The only upgrades I made sure to get for the Pro were 53456 Turnbuckle Upper Arms for quick front & rear camber adjustments 53457 Turnbuckle Tie Rods for quick toe-in adjustments 53458 Racing Hub Carriers to upgrade from 8° to 5° caster for twitchier steering 53426 Racing Body Posts to move the front posts to the bumper like the TRF414 id="quote">id="quote"> Hokey, here's mine:- Turnbuckles are useful if you're doing a lot of adjusting, but once you've got the car sorted they're not much use. I'd go for the stainless steel hingepins instead - they're a bit tougher against bending than standard ones I suspect. Caster changes is a personal choice... ditto toe-in rear blocks which some ppl like. I might try a pair myself for more straights stability. Tamiya's plastic shocks work pretty well when built correctly, you really don't need the metal shocks (just eye candy). Belts don't give much trouble even on dirtier areas; lower friction belts are available but I don't know how much difference they really make. (I've got wierd problem of high wear in my top pulley though, still very curious about that.) Carbon shock towers are handy to have over the plastic ones as these have more holes = more tuning options. Carbon suspension arms... well, they're a little stiffer but they can still be brittle & break on hard impacts. Finned motor mount... depends on your motor's heat generation. (The local boys run at under 5:1 on their rebuildable stocks so they reach 60-70 degC easy, its recommended if so.) Actually the ONLY option I think is mandatory is the "Racing Front Arms" kit... this gives the 3rd top lateral link ala 414 and really stiffens up the front. Steering gets a lot more precise and front end grip improves remarkably. (Since I put it on the tail's now loose.) What I like best about the PRO is that it gives a full set of blue-sealed bearings. What does the R & S give, metal shielded only?

quote: Originally posted by blondiniboy I agree with Theo, covering the air intake is about the easiest way to stop the engine, and is good on TC because the air filter is exposed. id="quote">id="quote"> Err... this is actually pretty stressful on the engine too, as it'll suck in lots of fuel and dies of drowning. Your next restart might also be difficult, if the crankcase is fully loaded. Possibly the neatest way is to cover the exhaust... this way the backpressure is used to stop fuel mixture getting in to the cylinder and combustion stops. But only works on cars with a rubber/silicone tube on the exhaust or else its pretty painful on fingers.

Think Tamiya hasn't brought out anything new offroad for 5+ yrs now... [] unless you're counting the WildWilly2, everything else is a rehash.

A bit unsure about the XC... like, its a great working scale model - no doubt about that. But it also handles like a scale model... it'll tip over quite easily at speed in corners - there's no way it'll handle as well as the (bigger, wider, faster) T/E-Maxxes and TerraCrusher. The suspension articulation on these oversized trucks is far superior and soak up the bumps like it was pebbles.

Haha, we're not talking about restoring your vintage rubber, Theo - but more like improving your tyres grip for racing. Some oils (eg anyone tried 'oil of wintergreen' or 'eucalyptus'?) so soften the rubber to give better grip, so does toasting them with tyrewarmers.

quote: Originally posted by DJTheo Wouldnt trade the smell of new old Tamiya tires for any other, love it when opening an old NIB! [^] Brings those 18 year old memories back... [|)] id="quote">id="quote"> You should go work in a new-tyre shop/warehouse, Theo... then it'll be like puss in catnip. []

Well, if you got the dough... heaven knows you can't take it with you!! []

quote:Originally posted by weedarlinDo the ones with the heatsinks work and is there any problems with E.S.C.s melting the radio boxes id="quote">id="quote">Like the guys said, modern ESCs have FETs with low resistance and barely get warm in use. Most would have safety mechanisms that cut out even before it gets hot enough to hurt your hand, let alone plastic.

Lookin' good, Sean!! btw, where IS the track... which US state? Couldn't find the address on the ttlocals site.

Don't care about all those guys. Most important one is... does Al know Vanessa and the Clod babe?? [][]

Most vinyl graphics (signwriting) shops would be able to get some scraps of material, why not try your neighbourhood one first? At least Black is pretty easy to colourmatch...!! []

Heh heh heh... nothing like a good peek! Got a white endbell motor ripped from some old gadget that fitted the RR nicely... now it just sits as a half-completed runner waiting for electronics & shell. []