WillyChang

hahaha yeah, i did chance across that during COVID lockdown (greetings from the big island of World's Longest Lockdown) Totally forgettable straight2video fluff as you say... only things i did remember were: #1 looks like it was Associated/Reedy sponsored, what say ye? #2 plot is yet another kiddult not ready to get married (so says the nerd who brought Ts to his wedding)

beware all used Ts which spent their previous lives running bushings Bushings would've worn grooves into the shafts they spin on; your new bearings could be spinning on the worndown shafts & the gear mesh could be outta whack. Worn bushings at the outdrives also do some wierd wear patterns on the potmetal bevel gears. In the original hotshot gearboxes, we'd add a 850 bushing (yeah bronze bushing, you'd have lots spare?) on the outdrive shaft before it stabs into the 1150 bearing. Helps support it somewhat, keeps chunky dirt out of the 1150 too.

Ball diffs were never designed to act as a Slipper (not the way we'd think of a Slipper clutch anyway); any continued slippage between balls & rings will quickly make mincemeat outta them. Avante's balldiff is more ornamental than functional; SWB chassis with geared diffs F&R would be better off with fixed centre. If ever mine has to come out again, id be tempted to rebuild it with locking pegs: Egress' LWB chassis works better with oneway centre (if you can live with 2-wheel brakes). Both are horrid chassis to wrench on in the field... they just look amazing engineering pieces on the shelf.

Watched Kevin McAllister's antics (Home Alone) as much as the next kid back when... but always wondered why he didn't have many (any?) RCs in his household. Just became aware of "Remote" movie, guess someone might have thought the same back in 1990s!! Have yet to watch it, trailer looks cheesy-as & don't even know if it involved Ts... looks more like Jet Hoppers? Languished in VHS chuckout bin wasteland for 3 decades but someone lately must've trawled thru back catalogue & reissued it on BluRay.

that said... MG996 was great value 20odd yrs ago when they appeared on the market alongside other newcomer budget brands like Bluebird etc, predating emergence of the Hobbyking empire. Proper original MG996 weren't dirt cheap, think they were like 1/4-1/3rd price of similar spec Hitec etc. Coincided around the time of HPI Savage's heyday. But then MG996 got copied and cloned repeatedly... not even sure who the original maker was anymore (had a purple sticker from vague memory). Prices dived as clones undercut each other dog-eat-dog, dropped to like 1/5th what they were asking earlier on... you need only imagine what that cost-cutting does for quality/reliability.

Check your EPA endpoints settings. When your EPAs are making servo try to travel further than linkage/steering has available, jammed servo will overheat and cook itself. Higher torque servos burn up even faster when jammed as they are able to pass higher current. Set EPAs so that servo just reaches full lock. Servo should be silent at both ends; it should never be heard clicking or straining.

‘Cos not - you’re just paying for the brandname more like that set probably same price as buying a Futaba RX tbh... nothing wrong with AM when not racing, if ones got a fleet of AM RXes already I love the oldskool 2PHKA & 2PL.

or buy toprange brandname for same price checkout the Futaba T2PSK

Can’t tell where you’re based atm, so can’t recommend a Local Hobby Store 🥸 Most oz big cities would still have LHS that been in biz for 20-30yrs+ that would usually have pile of old AM TXes down the boneyard out back they’d be happy to donate to worthy cause. Otherwise yeah modern 2.4 gear will drop straight in, same old servos etc should work just fine (umm you’ve already checked both servos are working, ya?). Budget brands like Flysky or Absima work well for their price $50-80ish ask; maybe $100ish for GT3B etc. Today Futaba makes great gear still but premium priced. SuperHornet is a good runner, the base chassis has been re-released in recent years as Grasshopper II etc so modern spareparts ain’t too hard to buy. All except the SH body & decals though.

PreOwned Futaba AM stick TXes used to sell for about A$5 in the chuckout bucket @ LHS plenty around in society if you wanna avoid 2.4.

Mold stamping usually stays original Details afaik is the shell factory drilled for body posts?

soak up the excess paint with blotting paper straight after applying

or just let JackWilly create his own articulation...

Rulez?! Who need no stinking rules I just read it as “run what u brung; don’t go blatantly overtaking the old race pros & if u get DQ’d for illegal equipment - who cares!” I'm in the city. Sounds like you’re far out bush? likely James Knight could be attending

shoot, U r too Heard word of Vintage Bash tabled for October???!?? https://www.facebook.com/groups/358809129010528/?ref=share Come to think if it, 2014 he was just starting out. That WildOne would’ve been an early effort, maybe not even DIY printed bits Early on I think he used a fair few bits off Axial SCX10 etc ; who else was in the early crawler market?

the osborne figs are articulated poseable, would complicate duplication somewhat - I’d never be able to decide which pose I want permanent

nah if they continued chasing kiddy market they’d be even worse off imho instead they chanced upon the StarWars & HarryPotter licenses then it was kiddults started buying/building/hoarding... Lotsa AFOLs lurk here too, I dare say

Mr Toykid has likely moved continents thrice since that post and i've recent suspicion he's now stationed seriously close to moi He's the brains & brawn behind Knight Customs btw, likely one of his own designs go check it out https://www.shapeways.com/shops/knightcustoms

the original Kyosho unit was named Eleck Rider, it’s from the 1970s probably get better luck scouring interweb for parts under kyosho name https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=46594

when you have full control over creation of custom vinyl... think in REVERSE and create vinyl masking window masks can be drawn with two outlines. Paint bodycolour (back yellow with white for opacity), remove masked trim line leaving glass area masked then paint black from behind. Don't need stickers applied outside that can get roadrashed off. Don't really even need vinyl... in the past, used to just photocopy the decal sheet. Overlay the paper with doublesided film tape, cut out and apply that as masking for windows, lights etc. Paper + tape lasts long enough for rattlecan painting.

TS Clear hangs onto PS well enough, light coats not thick. Survives the flex but not the roadrash.

Use X20A for PC bottles ONLY IF YOU HAVE TO... definitely not water. PC feels like some kind of latex acrylic, it's made for handbrushing - it's pretty thick "one shot" paint. Do not dilute for airbrushing, that is not what it's designed for. What levels have your bottles ullaged to? Even from new they weren't filled to the top, factory filled them to barely to the label/shoulder afaik. These glass bottles seal well, mine have never evaporated. One thing to watch for is they can go bad, they curdle to stringy scum floating on top of whey. I suspect bacteria or yeast. Definitely don't add unsterilised solvents & take precautions to avoid cross contamination if you're hoping to keep those bottles longterm.

Tuned armature has the thinnest wire I think, most turns. Power is quite similar to Gold in thickness & turns. Don't mix them together at once & label them with a texta.

nowhere close, think we used to call mica blue "Telefonica Blue" vs metallic blue "WRX blue" there's no PS equivalent for TS50 last time I rattled one of those

you Brits probably took most of the forex hit after Brexit, whereas downunder AUD dumped this month from 69c to 52c now ~60c. a week in I'm already getting revised price lists from import/distributors... geez everything's going UP big time ignoring the reality that there's an extra million or three joining the unemployment queue... yeah won't be much discretionary dollar left. China has restarted production... but now discovering there's no demand to buy their goods.