WillyChang

The 1:1 250GTO is actually a pretty tiny car... so to fit the standard 1/10th chassis they probably fudged the numbers. They also had the MGB made the same physical size as the Stingray Corvette... I think they'd differ quite a bit in 1:1 size. I think its just a matter of semantics... Kyosho was always more "accurate" with their numbers than others. Note the 1/9th scale trucks, etc. Then again, they've got the "Scale Series" Ferrari F40 which they call 1/10, even though its on a TGX/SuperTen sized long OptimaMid chassis. And everyone knows how small an F40 really is in real life.

quote:Originally posted by snollanBTW I am Jack Burton!! id="quote">id="quote">I know... [] didn't wanna blow your cover. quote:Originally posted by snollanIt's all in a the relfex really but thats not the topic right now. However maybe I should grab a runner and a shelf queen. -lol id="quote">id="quote">Nah, lousy runner. Its only an 03 and the shell weighs a tonne; not much point using it unless you're planning on shovelling snow. Plus the black 'Jun' plastics are impossible to replace now.

Dish detergent & warm water - leaves everything lemony fresh too.

quote:Originally posted by darryn1we dont have kangaroo's as pets - they are a wild animal !! [][][8D] id="quote">id="quote">Of course not!! They just taste bleeding good in stews!! []

quote:Originally posted by DJTheoTamiyas plastic CVAs work pretty fine and dont loose much oil as the old Racing Buggy metal dampers. id="quote">id="quote">Hahaha, quite a 'low standard' you've chosen there, Theo!! [] Bit like saying "Handles better than a TC Cortina", eh??

quote:Originally posted by SjoerdSo you have vaseline for breakfast? LOL Thought it was for something else. id="quote">id="quote">Yeah, we Ozzies put Vaseline on the car battery terminals to stop corrosion... quote:Originally posted by SjoerdI ment ppl putting car fuel on the tires for grip...(they actually believe you if you tell them... id="quote">id="quote">Ditto, the locals used to use suntan lotion on tyres... until that practice of "unauthorised additive" was banned. []

quote:Originally posted by flybyhi willy, lol, your post wasn't there when i started. lol id="quote">id="quote">Smart minds think alike, eh Mikey? []

quote: Originally posted by blondiniboy Running them till they run out of fuel is also a no-no, as they run out the mixture gets really weak and can damage the glow plug and cause excesive engine wear due to the lack of lubrication. id="quote">id="quote"> Dunno... theoretically yes, but don't know anyone who actually bothers to kill their car before the tank runs dry. Its only running lean for say about the last 10 seconds...? Besides... how would you stop your engine? 1) pinch fuelline = starvation, lean burn, same thing. 2) kick flywheel = stress on crankshaft?? 3) remove glowplug = no stress, but Big Mess! The most I do is, when running continuously, to try top up the tank before running dry - but mainly so that I don't have to restart then engine. Have run gascars at times for nearly 2 hrs straight for a few times - after which the concentration starts going [] and its a good idea anyway to stop in pits to check RX battery voltages. Imho you'll get more user-damage by overrevving a under-geared car. Nitro engines shouldn't be revved at full for more than 3-5 secs at a constant stretch... you'll easily blow your conrod or toast the plug. Overgearing the car isn't good either... the straining engine will run hot.

quote: Originally posted by netsmithUK Somehow managed to break (and lose) the metal connector that goes on top of the glow plug. - reckon it must have been on its way out when I got it. id="quote">id="quote"> Huh? From the pluglead or the plug itself? Unless its an Enya plug, the glowplug doesn't come apart... quote: OK, if I have to drain the fuel - how do i do it? id="quote">id="quote"> Hope you've got a squeezy fuel bottle?? []

quote: Originally posted by oldfordguy Im considering buying a ta04 r for the next racing season. Can anybody give pros, cons, and comments about this platform? It will be used as a serious club level race car. id="quote">id="quote"> An excellent choice, unless you prefer a FRP/graphite plate chassis in which case you might also want to consider the 04PRO. Just weigh up the cost of the options etc etc, maybe the 04R is the cheaper route. Or maybe go the full hog and try a 414M2. quote: How does it compare to tb evo, evoII as far as acceleration, handling, efficiency? id="quote">id="quote"> I'm told they handle differently, so its a matter of personal preference. My 04s (tub & PRO) handle very neutrally and are quite sensitive to adjustments. EvoIII now announced also.

Can't seem to change forum user name under "Edit User Profile", Chris. I tried it myself last month, when I moved from 'P-Bear' to 'WillyC'. The TamiyaClub main side changed ok, but the Forums got me re-registered it as new, from scratch.

Just to throw this squib into the fire... Quite a few motors will fit the gearcase *IF* you're willing to lose the rear plastic cover. Motor cans all differ in size, its all a matter of manufacturing tolerances... if its a bit tight then that's good too - to hold it in. [] Press it in gently with a padded vice. The motor cover doesn't do much, and it isn't even waterproof. Don't even bother drilling more holes or filing it if so - the friction is good enough to hold 540s in. To make sure it stays in, try some silicone sealant between motor and case too (but makes it rather a pain to change motors). If the only reason that you want to replace the motor is that you cannot find new stock of plastic endbell motors... have you looked inside a handheld vacuum cleaner or cordless drill lately? [8D] Choose the cheap China-made ones too, more likely to be plastic endbelled.

quote:Originally posted by chungleongWhere have I been hiding? In the world of mountain bikes where 27 speeds of my choosing are available at the flick of a finger. id="quote">id="quote">Heh heh... the primemover trucks' gearbox are more of a preselector rapidfire mechanism... [] Thought you were stuck in NS!! []

Anything made for the Frog wheels will fit.

quote:Originally posted by SjoerdThe rear section of the Mounty and Hilux look the same, but the Bruiser's is different. id="quote">id="quote">No way!! Hilux is a 'stepside' body with hard cover. Mounty is an open full-width tray. Bruiser has an open fill-width tray too, with a sleeper dogbox backed up to the cab.

Heeey... WHO there raided Blazing Fraser's house?? [)]

The bout's over, fellas... 1778365971 Blazing Blazer US $2,025.00 1778563153 TOYOTA PICKUP US $1,825.00 ALL HAIL THE GUESSING VICTOR - GREEK GOD THEO!! []

quote:Originally posted by synchrocncI think the hopups (not tamiya) are the right period too and are really rare id="quote">id="quote">They look like the You-G side bars ?? They suit the Frog well but imho looks a little odd on the Lancia. Not sure really how rare they are in Oz, there was a fella that had cornered a whole crate of them plus You-G tyres, bumpers etc a few yrs ago. Unfortunately once they're on its hard to take them off, as the bars leave a dent mark on the chassis... a Frog that came with them already on is thus scarred.

Hmmm... 934 huh? Wonder who's the bidder... [?]

Just in case "jackburton" made y'all miss out... there's another 3 up for grabs... [:X] http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=1781098942

Sounds good! Used to be able to buy it HK streetprice for around US$100-120, so that's pretty fair. But TEN BUCK shipping - that's really excellent!! [] Love the honkie "green" paper too (not brown, but nori green)... haven't found it anywhere else in the world.

Puts it in a literal sense, when yelling to your pit mechanic "hey, the car's feeling a little mushy" or "Sticks like glue around corners". []

quote:Originally posted by DJTheoIncredible what high data rates the 60 year old TV uses, respect! id="quote">id="quote">Ya, I was given some big paper where some fella was working out the "effective data rates" of analog broadcast free2air TV... think it was something like 60-100M/s.

"Sequential Shifts"..?!? (snigger) How often do you guys shift anyway? In real life our 1:1 Pajero had a little stubby lever "L/H" that never get moved until you went offroad and had to climb out to hub-lock the front. Imho the 3spd's gearbox is the same as this stubby lever's 'transfer' box, its not the 5-spd gearbox hanging off the engine which you'd row to get you moving from the lights. The 750 motor's torque should be enough to pull off the full range of gears from standstill. Whereas the 3-spd Tamiya trucks are slightly different... they are designed to be shifted on-the-move. PS: welcome back ChungLeong; where've you been hiding? []

has this forum been BANISHED?? [?]