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Posts posted by WillyChang
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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:
but RR motor mount does not allow 380.
hack it on with Grasshopper adapter plate?
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On 3/25/2022 at 2:31 PM, steponit! said:
Btw, does anyone know whether the 2012 Bruiser Rear Axles (it has differential, right?) can direct fit on the 1985 Bruiser?
If I remember correctly, 'rcchannel' did make them before at USD250 a piece! Sadly I don't see them listed anymore in their website...
2012 has diffs (lockable with a pin) but the whole axle pumpkin is a lot fatter
also T parts are ex & not easy to source, you found someplace that sells em?
RC4WD used to make/sell various Bruiser aftermarket axle assemblies; don’t know if they’re diff or not.
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Looks very clean, I don’t know what you’ve got to restore
Body is Mountaineer but the chassis looks Bruiser by its wheels & battery tray.
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Motor physics are never 100% linear relationship.
Hot mod motors rely on high revs to produce their high power. Bog them down by overgearing and they’ll burn up real quick.
Brushed motors aren’t digital devices either, even if you run slightly different pinions on a pair of equal motors or slightly different motors geared together they don’t seem to get too fussed (by our own experimenting).
But TBH... these days with brushless & HV there’s less need to double up brushed motors for extra high speed running. At our recent Velodrome running someone turned up with a 6-wheeler pan car with twin rear motor pods. Don’t think it ran any better than the M07 with just a 5.5t running 2S... that little mini just cruised around like it was in rails lap after lap.
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On 3/21/2022 at 4:59 PM, steponit! said:
(2) ESC : I got a 'Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 Brushed ESC' laying around...is it suitable for the 'Mabuchi 750' motor?
yeah 1060 is more than plenty, the 750 ain’t very thirsty
Mine run on TEU101BK & Futaba MC330R stuffed inside radiobox, they never complain & barely even feel warm.
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ahh! MST TCR
yeah was wondering how one would go built FF+MR
btw one avenue you might’ve not considered is, if your ESC is capable of 3S or 4S... run a higher volts battery & wire the 2 motors in Series (not Parallel). That’ll avoid “doubling” the current thru ESC.
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RC brushed motors weren’t designed to run for 40-60mins nonstop... 5-10mins max then let them cool down.
but lipo packs now have too much capacity for long runtimes
worst still is DF03’s motor gets terrible airflow, really needs forced air cooling
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19 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:
Thanks! What is the limit? Is it 12T (limit of 1060) x 2 = 24T each motor?
yeah close enough Rule of thumb
silvercans are a “soft” 27t generally
but if you’re gearing them to the moon they’ll be close to stalling & can draw heaps too much current
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3 hours ago, alvinlwh said:
Does this mean I will get the same effect if I make up a Y splitter for a 1060?
Yes.
if you don’t need the extra current capacity of the 880
1060 Should be fine to run dual parallel silvercans etc
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pretty much every CC01 model has its own location/style/position of body mounting hardware unique to that shell. Hardbodies have the front clip-tab & horizontal post at rear; lexan shells use vertical posts etc etc.
if you just wanna throw your chequebook at it, there's countless modified bodymounts available on thingiverse or shapeways
https://www.shapeways.com/product/W46PPVXTH/tamiya-cc01-bodymount-10mm-lift
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perhaps just hang on another week or 3
gunmetal is on its way
T paint supply seemed to grind to a halt during the olympics & whole world ran dry, but shipments are passing thru the system in recent month. I have seen more fresh paint arrive this week than last 6-9mths total...
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If that’s B3 off the hubcap sprue, I believe it’s a blind plug that goes into a underneath hole in the Hilux/Blazer radio box.
Only used on BBlazer.
Radiobox has 3 lever outputs for the 3 servos (steer, speed, shift). The Hilux has its unique electromechanical speed controller located under driver’s butt outside radiobox linked to Ch2 servo.
Less fancy spec Blazer uses a traditional MSC switchboard located inside the radiobox (with long wires to resisors mounted externally) so it doesn’t need the 3rd lever output anymore. (Until you decide to hopup Blazer with the Option Part electromechanical unit... which I suspect didn’t come cheap BiTD).
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10 hours ago, Busdriver said:
This is my first fwd m chassis car I’ve built, it’s on the M05 chassis with added oil shocks. The M07 is probably a better performance chassis but can’t be made as 210mm chassis which is the the best one for Minis. There are also 01 and 03 m chassis but I believe they are like hens teeth and maybe not as good?
M01&2 were rudimentary original proof of concepts imho... quirky Tamiya design, beat for holding up nice bodies on your shelf
M04 can handle well but relies on crutch of needing grippier rear tyres for handling balance.
M05 is current workhorse but imho they’re not that easy to build a good racer out of... needs hopups & builder experience to get then to run right. It’s got too many separate bits & inefficient layout.
Whereas M03 is where the planets aligned & the real magic happened! Amazingly simple design, we could throw a new one together blindfolded after a few drinks & it'll still run great on the racetrack first thing tomorrow. Needs a bare minimum of hopups, it’s light & easy on tyres too.
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1 hour ago, Willy iine said:
Now your car is whole!
‘fraid not, that’s just the plastic bits... one would also need BE1 from Screwbag E to assemble the camlocks
specialized M2 caphead bolt
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1 hour ago, Exit13 said:im not thrilled with how narrow they are. I’m open to any suggestions
take a giz for 1/16 scale tyres; few yrs ago mini stadium trucks eg Assoc RC16MT were all their rage. Rear tyres are like 2” wide; you may have to try M-chassis wheels though.
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13 hours ago, MadInventor said:
whilst simultaneously trying to stop it flying across the room into oblivion
work inside a big clear plastic bag
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28 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:
TBH I think it was all done for the drama - I'd be amazed if an archaeological dig big enough to have BBC coverage didn't already have access to camera probes or robotic rovers.
ah who knows, everybody always saying The Beeb did some serious budget cuts
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BiTD there’s “stock motor lathes” for sealed can motors where you can unbolt the brush hoods & it cuts through that aperture
Won’t cut as true as a “mod motor lathe” on an extracted armature as it’ll be running on the stock can’s bushings vs V-guides
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5 minutes ago, Nikko85 said:
The cars in the first film look like Nikko aero rhinos?
sweet, you're the SMExpert
bit of a minor makeover paintjobs by props dept ?
also looks like a fluoro yellow Tyco Hammer pretty much undisguised
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Heads up all Melburnians & Australians! (plus any interstaters & overseas willing to travel
)
KEORCA is planning a big Vintage extravaganza for last weekend in Oct 2022
https://www.rctech.net/forum/australian-events/1095711-vintage-bash-oct-29-30-a.html
https://www.facebook.com/groups/358809129010528
KEORCA is Keilor RC club, they've been around decades going back to the 80s.
http://www.keilorrc.com.au/about-us/
Not only the RCs will be vintage, even the human drivers/owners will be vintaged...


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ok have amended Main Title to include TV
for the record Tamiyas spotted on:
Punky Brewster S02E15 Girls Will Be Boys
Knight Rider S04E04 Sky Knight
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14 minutes ago, mtbkym01 said:
I loved Malcolm when it came out, was brilliant back then imo
Brunswick tram terminus just up the road from where I'm sitting, Mark. Probably be able to reach it with a FPV SRB on a good 1200mAh humppack.
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2 hours ago, WillyChang said:
...Have yet to watch it, trailer looks cheesy-as
& don't even know if it involved Ts... looks more like Jet Hoppers?....
agent willy took one for the Team, flicked thru Remote flick now reporting back
Spotto'd lots of Tyco/Taiyo wheeled RCs, also lots of Futaba TXes & some big DIY box looks hand-cribbed together with Futaba labelling on some component
dunno what the gasser chopper is nor the biplane. Plane looks like moved on rails/string for house interior shots; don't think they had self-starting nitro engines back in the 90s
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thought there was an existing RC Spotto in Movie thread on TC but i couldn't find it today; might've been mistaken in old age brainfog
further to "greetings from the City of World's Longest Lockdown" aka Melbourne Australia, here also brought you "Malcolm" BiTD
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CC0x Land Rover Defender lexan body seam???
in General discussions
Posted
All normal. T uses a 3piece mold, there’s 2 seams front & back.