WillyChang
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Posts posted by WillyChang
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3 hours ago, futureworks said:
But back to my rant - having got back into the hobby recently after a couple of years concentrating on other things, I'm just gobsmacked at the prices now being charged for pretty much anything by sellers based in Japan and the Far East: new stuff, vintage NIB and even used rolling chassis'. Prices do seem to have gone up across the board in the last few years from everywhere, shipping too, and also likelihood of getting customs charges, but stuff from eBay sellers in Japan seem to really stand out as crazy when the same stuff can be bought in Europe or the US much more cheaply.
It’s like a role-reversal. Am I the only one to notice this?
Fyi 5-10yrs (ish) ago many foreign LHSes (like outside of Japan & HK) were angry at their local national distributors who charged them more for T stock than could be bought online direct from Japan or HK stores.
So T muscled in on the Japanese & HK sellers, reducing stock supply & raising prices. Foreign distributors might've gotten a better deal too to offer their customers.
(Otoh T USA tried mandating crazy high "MAPricing" too... go figure)
In the same period there's also consolidation amongst shipping providers, many can't survive on the negligible margins they were getting. At the same time snailmail letter volumes have dropped (killed by email) so parcel rates have gone up as postal systems still have to pay for their infrastructure from a smaller volume.
It's worse depending which side of exchange rate you're on too... AUD has depreciated a lot in past 10yrs, was up over 105c to USD and now it's down to 67c.
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6 hours ago, martinjpayne said:
@Seanster43 You could always drill out the thread on the C-Hub to 3mm and put a (54395) 3x22mm suspension shaft through...
or a shock shaft
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8 hours ago, Superluminal said:
Any chance of a domestic buyout to keep it alive even if at a much smaller scale?
What for? There's just no $$ to be made in tiny RHD market. The big boss said it flat outright himself "it's throwing good money after bad"
Kangaroos (bushfire), meat pies (gone plant-based) and now Holden cars (-$$)... bye bye.
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Yay!
The cord is just parachute cord, anywhere from haberdashery or army surplus supply sells it. Or harvest from old Venetian blinds, plenty of those at the tip.
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Nah was wanting no drag brake for the little winch... think I gave up, jumped online and ordered some cheap winch controller instead - can't remember if it's key fob remote controlled or RX controlled switch (because in the 4-6wks it takes to arrived I've gotten distracted elsewhere; arrived parcel gets added the interesting gizmos pile that I'll get around to installing one day... if that winch is still operational anyway because some kid has been using it as a battering ram.)
That was way back when "too cheap to be believed" 1060s appeared on fleaBay and we all got conned.
remember those?
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7 hours ago, Wooders28 said:
The 1060 is the cheap and cheerful option, but, the fwd/rev jumper does give a drag brake in neutral.
Ah ok, thanks for confirmation
was mucking about with 1060 on bench wondering if it'll drive a winch, felt as though it was jamming up when in neutral when trying to pull out the winch cable.
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4 hours ago, Mad Ax said:
Well, upon stripping it down, I figured there was no way I would allow myself to build it back up again like that. The stick chassis was made from two lengths of alu channel from a hardware store, roughly-hacked to approximate lengths and bolted together with a mish-mash of rusty screws. The holes that secured the front gearbox hadn't been drilled level, so the front axle was always on the slant. The lower plate, which I had thought was structural, was paper-thin and bendy.
Sounds like the custom Unimog crawler I bought (long before Unimogs were common lexan things) with hand built ladder chassis (long before China generic chassis were common) with TLT axles (long before HighLift appeared).
Chassis is interestingly "greebled" and looks the part from 10' away. But if you brought out calipers its doubtful its anywhere square. It's all painted over with black but where the paint has chipped off I think it's "mixed media" from steel bars, scrap aluminium and balsa wood...
Axle cases have taken a beating but they run smooth. It's a slow crawler so handling is not required but it'll climb a fair terrain. So space on chassis to fit battery so it lives on the tipper bed - which can't tip anymore with batter there.
Haven't had heart yet to pull it apart, I know it'll never get reassembled the same. Takes up less space as 1 truck than a mess of pieces.
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Fwd/Rev with no brake is called "crawler" mode.
Quicrun 1080 is popular with crawler guys; don't know if 1060 can be switched to crawler function.
These days ESCs are so efficient they barely get warm; old ESCs meant for boats might have provision for water cooling their heatsink in the hulk where they don't get airflow.
Servo signal from RX is 3 wires... red +ve, black/white -ve and blue/yellow/etc for signal. Long as you rewire the correct wire to the correct terminal you won't release the magic smoke.
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40 minutes ago, Pablo68 said:
Can the WW2 body be used on these?Yes dimensions are identical, even the hole for switch is there. Just drill 3 holes for mounting posts.
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43 minutes ago, Bromley said:
If a TBLE-02 is included in a new kit, they are generally speaking set to "brushed".
Generally yes
but I've had at least kit-supplied one that wasn't... dunno if it either got flipped at factory or someone has fiddled with it afterwards before I got it. Possibility is there. Definitely need to reread the destructions for the flipping sequence.
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10 minutes ago, Pablo68 said:
Actually, pairing it to something fairly recent, my Spektrum DX4r, which is quite a nice radio really.
Spektrum are one of those that make EPA settings confusing
they seem to allocate some arbitrary "100%" but then you can increase it to like 200% (= full throw of servo by old skool standards).
In which case, your radio @100% might not be giving enough throw for the ESC to detect as maximum during programming
try increase it to 140%
Dunno about DSMR but don't forget about failsafe programming too. I like to reset the DSM1/2 Spektrum's RX failsafe to 'neutral' before programming. One less thing to worry about that could muck up.
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54 minutes ago, mastino said:
Do you know if there are substantial differences between high lift kits?
Tundra is longer wheelbase than the earlier 2 I think. Might have motor/gearbox mounted lower or higher too... can't remember, they've been released too long ago
No must have hopup after bearings; light kit or better still light & sound kit makes them come alive.
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5 hours ago, Pablo68 said:
Anyone in here know how to calibrate these things.
Yes I have looked at the instructions/guide. It doesn't seem to want to change it's settings.What radio are you trying to pair it to? How old?
If it's non-Futaba &/or really old... the travel range of your radio may exceed what signal the ESC is expecting, it'll exit the programming mode. Try reducing the throw by dialling down EPA to maybe 70-80% or if it doesn't have EPA add stops to mechanically reduce throw of lever.
Sometimes it's worth flipping the servo reverse to ch2 & retry programming.
Knack is handy for 230, 330 etc and any radio older than RJ112JE era.
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TBLE instructions are handy to work out if it's in brushed or brushless mode.
In the wrong mode vs motor connected it's no workee.
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On 13 February 2020 at 9:06 AM, Ernie^s BadAss Airplane Co said:
Just received a batch of new Spiked Rear Tires. This latest batch (plus the 2 set of tires in my 2019 re-re Hornet and Frog) have unevenly molded rear tires....one sidewall is significantly thicker and stiffer, than the other side. From 2 dozen pairs, most of them show this un-equal molding. (Only A few, seem to be normal).
QC has left the building huh.
Or is that a "handling feature"
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The switch in every ESC I've opened merely cuts the power supply to the RX via the servo lead. Think it's usually the ground (black/-Ve) lead that's switched.
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Now that you know - Best not to do your soldering with those plugs on the motor, take them off first. Especially if you're inexperienced and may take more than 5-10s of heating to make a good joint.
Otherwise the corally prong will soak up all your heat, it might unsolder off the circuitboard. Plus if you're really unlucky the heat will flow inside the motor and start unsoldering stuff inside too.
Fat high-current wiring also conducts heat efficiently.
You'll need a decently powerful soldering iron; one with decently beefy "heat mass" is better still. Wattage helps it get up to temp faster, but you also want enough metal mass to bank up enough heat to get the job done fast.
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3 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:
Good point. Perhaps they are spares to replace those that come fitted to the motor when they wear out?
Perhaps! They do break a few strands after some use, never tried seeing they'll dismantle. The springy collar is free to spin on the male prong's shaft... held in by the knob on the end.
Maybe that unScrews...?!
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2 minutes ago, Jontea said:
They came with the motor. Pic of what I've got.
Err no... think you're meant to solder each wire into the "valley" of each of those plugs on the motor. The notch is there so you can solder straight-inline or lay it down perpendicular, whichever suits your install better.
Spring doesn't go there.
Then once you've soldered it... you'll amazingly discover the 3 Orange/yellow/blue knobs are actually plugs
yes they'll unplug, just pull them straight off. They are corally style tubes.
The corally style male/terminals stay on the motor's circuit board tab. The springs are part of the terminal.
Have never seen spare springs supplied before. Sometimes Hobbywing has supplied a 3set of extra plugs with motor combo, even though there's a set already on the motor (that many don't realise it's a plug).
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You could also recycle the circuit board out of servos... they're pretty much an ESC if you disconnect the pot.
Better still just use the whole servo (lookup "360 mod") & you'll get a motor & gearbox too
lots of mini skidsteers built from 2 servos.
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1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:
Those look like adaptors to allow smaller male bullets to fit larger female ones.
aren't they just the "springs" to corally plugs? (never seen them sold separate before though)
Otherwise once you get them in the tube... they'll wanna grip tight & good luck getting them out again
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M38 really needs a vintage 540 with plastic endbell, there's a big ring that seats into the cradle at the other end. The only hopup motor that fits perfectly is the plastic endbell Black Motors.
Then there's the pinion to consider - original is pressed onto shaft.
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Yeah on a 'good' engine it's possible to suck in enough fuel into the combustion chamber to cause hydraulic lock... you'll need to remove the plug, flip engine over and pour the liquid out.
I suspect there's no fuel getting thru... did you test if the carb is really unclogged?
Try blowing into the pressure hose (remove it from exhaust) and blow fuel from tank into carb inlet... it should spray out thru the Venturi at the throat.
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CRV is nice, rarest CC01 these days
Bearings is the only essential hopup. Everything else is just nice2have.
Think my CRV kit might've come with an MSC, don't use that run an ESC instead.
A Will & Testament
in General discussions
Posted
Been wondering how long it'd take to be discovered I'm missing, buried by a toppled pile of kit boxes in the mancave. Or just a single 3spd rolling off a high shelf could be lethal too.
Meh.