WillyChang
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Posts posted by WillyChang
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You are using a fresh brandnew plug, aren't you...
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There's LASIK resurfacing if you're suitable, or lens implant if you're not. Time to get chatty with your local optician & eye surgeon.
But just a headsup that your eye changes/ages gradually, like over months or years.
If you get a sudden huge degree of change, like over weeks not months - seek medical advice ASAP. Could be anything from heart & circulation issues to glaucoma or macular degeneration; more so if you've got close relatives with those conditions.
Approaching this half century mark, I'm afraid your maker's warranty is over guys. The old chassis is getting creaky & rusty, paintwork is past its prime. Drivetrain is still functional but that transmission is sure getting sloppy. Suspension is getting saggy and that tailpipe will need annual monitoring real soon.
Nothing really hits home until you attend funeral of friends & see the trend... last few decades cause of death has been usually accident or other crazy but stupidity. Lately it's getting more and more due to "health" or lack thereof.
Scary.
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There is thought that Subaru Brat body was molded with intention of going over a SuperChamp chassis... instead it became the first ORV.
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Oh yeah that's the other thing... CC01s are geared pretty high, a stock CC01 with usual kit tyres probably keeps up with a stock TT01
Lower profile CRV tyres (reused on Freelander) slow it down a tad (change to 20 pinion to equalise) but it handles better on Tarmac too. You can use anything from Touringcar wheels to 2.2" buggy 4WD front wheels too - super versatile!
Dont forget the Low Rider kit available too
59 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:Anyways, I've had a few used CC01s as well as a number of new builds. If a CC01 has been run in anger with stock steering then there may be play in the tube through the chassis tub. If you fit the steering hop-up it relies on the tube being of the right size, so you might have to replace the entire tub to fix the steering. But it depends, I've retrofitted the hop-up to well-used chassis with no problems.
The tube thru the tub is slightly tapered, top is different diameter to bottom. Some of my trucks have been well used with high mileage, but still yet to find a tub that's too wornout to fix.
The commonest steering hopup is GPM/YeahRacing, they change to 850 ballbearings in nylon flanged bungs. They work well after you've discovered the knack to install them correctly - eg the 5mm tube needs to be properly filed or shimmed to perfect length; the 2 levers that bolt to it need to be glued to the tube so they won't loosen; it's better to change to longer screws than supplied.
CC01 definitely has its own niche... not yet quite sure what/when/why for CC02.
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11 minutes ago, Mokei Kagaku said:
Shouldn't be hard. In fact, it was pretty common for it to come loose by itself as the gearbox got some mileage. They weren't as well fixed as similar pins in gear box joints for newer chassis types.
Ahh, good to know
I thought I remember putting them in with fixed pins but later they weren't... I had been blaming early onset stress induced senility
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yeah air filter not required until there's risk of grit getting in
Have you checked if the engine is actually PUMPING AIR?
When you turn it over, it should create an air pulse out the exhaust port.
Should be vacuum at the carb throat too, after taking off the carb.
Pumping air is one sign of healthy compression.
Did you slather it (piston, sleeve, all moving parts) with oil when rebuilding?
Drip 4-5 drops of oil thru glowplug hole onto top of piston. It should help improve compression, temporarily.
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1 hour ago, Mad Ax said:
My wife overspent her money on her Lucy Locket Leggings virus
No idea what those are, until now... CRIPES they're £33 yoga pants?!!?
After finding out about $500 ballet socks.
Good lord, today's fadionistas really know how to markup moolah.
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You folks are missing the design purpose of CC01... it's the SUV of the RC world
just drive it where you'd drive a Honda CRV or Pajero MTW - 90% highway, 10% up a gravel driveway
It ain't a crawler, it ain't a mud bog truck, it ain't a stadium racer.
Stock kit works fine, all you need are full bearings (+ extras to stuff into axle as above & at centre driveshaft)
Alloy steering is nice & worth having if you want tighter steering, like for indoors. Otherwise turning circle is fine for large outside areas; stock kit tyres are well-suited... on Tarmac they slide instead of traction roll. When you change to softer compounds and taller profiles, the traction roll at every corner soon gets stale.
Alloy everything else is more for looks.
Changing the rear axle trailing link to anything stiffer doesn't really improve much IMHO. The soft floppy links probably help the handling more than hinder.
Droplink extenders for the rear shocks... meh I hate them.
Pricewise they're fair value. They don't normally resell for cheap afaik as I doubt anyone can tell difference between a well-used vs recently built CC01. They're hard wearing, pretty basic design and drivetrain is overengineered for softroading. Built/used examples usually priced similar to a new kit but they usually come with electronics etc.
Mine do duty as noobie trainers, they get taken to onroad track & trashed by 3-13yos with zero RC experience. Perfect SUV purpose... cruising around on pavement by clueless drivers, punctuated by running into (& over) kerbs & corner dots - where a proper touring car would be beached & need frequent rescuing.
They're good fun but it's a generalist - if you want a serious specialised RC you'll be better off starting elsewhere.
Hmm... saw somewhere somebody trying to use CC01 for drift car
I gotta try it one day, haven't gone that route yet.
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oooh those are drool worthy 1200s!!!
even before the red & blue colour coding...
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Hitec is Korean.
Few heard of Kia & Hyundai or Ssangyong too, when Honda & Toyota started exporting
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They are different names for the same thing :)
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Anything "peak" is just imagination, like "PMPO" rating on your 1980s boombox.
140A should be able to support mild to hottish mods, say down to 10t 540size. (Personally I think Korean Amps might be on the small underdeveloped side, but that's just me)
No idea which LRP F1 you have... are some of them programmable (fwd/brake or f/b/rev?) Vaguely remember LRP had fancy gizmos like torque control settings via jumpers etc... but I didn't pay attention much to the blue bugs, I was blinded by the orange of Novak
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14 hours ago, CKU87 said:
Haha that’s so true, last time I painted a TT02 chassis and got some paint on my arm. My colleague asked me what happened to me. I was surprised and told him that I did some work at home
What should I say?
Back then I used to manually refill my Epson photo printer cartridge from CcMmYK bulk ink. These days I play with fountain pens and myriad coloured FP inks. Either way I'd often end up with 10 fingers in 21 different bright hues
takes at least 2-3d of washing to wear off.
If anybody raises an eyebrow, start humming...
Someday we'll find it
The Rainbow Connection
The lovers, the dreamers and me…-
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He means connecting motor in opposite polarity so it runs in reverse direction, not necessarily going through any ESC
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Wouldn't lose sleep over cable gauge, IMHO anything over 16g is already overkill for most 1/10 RC applications... 14g & 12g just good for Monster Cable looks.
Lots of reasons why ESCs go up in smoke... some even do it without any cause. LRP & Nosram weren't immune BiTD. Could be something as simple as Reverse FETs heatsink has shorted against the Forward FETs when either is powered up. Could be little magnetic/conductive pebbles or metal filings has been picked up from the track, entered the ESC case and shorted out some circuits.
Or in one crazy case... car wasn't switched on but battery was connected. Some child grabs the front wheels and moves the steering side to side... steering servo sends enough volts to the RX and that perks up the ESC too, enough to turn on the MOSFETs and short themselves out.
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1 hour ago, geniusanthony said:
I have a deal with my wife. She doesn't get mad or do any of the "you bought another truck" stare down, instead she or I order a new color of those Tieks flats that are popular in the states.
Kinda forces me to be slightly choosier to what I buy.
Cripes... never heard of Tieks, now I have... Whats that all about then? US$175-345 for floppy foot coverings?!? That's like A$500!!!
Man, you're getting the raw end of that deal matey.
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Genuine original WildOne white wheels will survive acetone; that'll strip just about anything even engine crinkle enamel. The white material feels like waxy nylon, you can just about fold it in half and it'll barely even show stressmarks. (Think I've still g it remains of a Fox that looks like it's been run over by a car.)
The fluoro wheels that came on SuperG and SuperHornet are ABS, they'll melt in acetone. Also stiffer & brittle.
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Nearly everybody has standardised on the Futaba-J plug theseadays.
Flysky likes it without the tab
(just snip it off if your plug is tabbed)
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haha what do you old boys think of the current/new 2PSK?
They even call it “oem”
Feels very light & solid hard wheel looks cheap, but it’s definitely premium prices & I guess the guts/RX is good stuff.
Can’t bring myself to own one just by its looks.
Plus I haven’t got any Futaba 2.4 anyway.
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Maybe, there’s usually baffles in tank to stop sloshing.
Acetone is ok, shouldn’t hurt anything in carb (except maybe dry out o-rings). But you’ll get more action from squirty pressure to blast out the fuel passages...
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6 hours ago, frameskip said:
Doesn't the Clod require zero-timing motors, or a reverse rotation motor for the rear axle if running any timing? I think with two Sport Tuned motors you'll get a slower rotating rear end.
yes, One (can’t remember front or back) runs in reverse.
But reignites the ageold Q... is a SportTuned a 27t with Timing, or a lesser turn (some say 23t) with zero timing.
Also if you’re buying SportTuned just for its ‘black’ can, hope you’ve bought old stock. I hear recent new stocks are arriving not black.
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To stop a nitro engine... depends what you've got on you
- if you've got plug wrench, loosen the plug... possibly "kindest" way
- plug the exhaust... back pressure will choke the engine. It might also pump in too much fuel, hard to restart. Or you discover your exhaust leaks, doesn't keep enough or pressure to stop engine
- pinch the fuel line or upend the car/tank, starves the engine. But that also cuts the oil, so it might be running too lean for a short time.
- mechanically brake the flywheel. Preferably use your shoe leather not your finger.
Umm carbie jets are usually soft brass, don't be clearing them with anything harder than brass. Steel definitely harder than brass. Compressed air or aerosol WD40 or brake cleaner or contact cleaner is handy; might even need carby cleaner or aggressive MAF cleaner spray.
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4 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:
I wouldn’t take delivery time as gospel though, stuff I’ve bought from China always over estimate so you you don’t leave bad feedback, I’ve just received a couple of small hardware packets 2-3 weeks earlier than expected 😁
Hopefully it doesn't come from China "China"... as its gunna get real fun with transport logistics in coming days as more & more airlines stop flying to China. Singapore banned all arrivals from China last Friday, Qantas cancelling all direct flights too... and pretty soon Australia will stop all inbound from mainland too.
Last "China" item I bought was about Xmas week... arrived this week postmarked from Germany!
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All really depends on your personal usage habits... mainly are you the only One person driving your RCs or do you occasionally have 2-6 others invited along yo play
For me alone... used to run KO Mars (best feeling TX in hand) with KO 40MHz or later DSM1 Spektrum module. KO parts are expensive and Spektrum originals not too cheap either... KO Mars are great computer radios, I have a few as each one 'only' has 25 memory slots. (However the Spektrum module does not know what slot is selected. Spektrum RX broadcasts its ID when syncing, that's what the TX/module records.)
DSM2 came along, Spektrum didn't make any more modules for other brands by then. Started switching over to DX3S then DX3R and DX3C and DX3R-Pro... all good. Then arrived DSM2 clone receivers which made switching even more palatable... can buy 6+ for price of 1 original. (DSM2 is neat because each model slot records a unique broadcast ID. When you sync multiple RXes to different slots, you can have all of them powered on together, but ONLY the 1 sync'd to active slot will respond. I can also sync same 1 RX to multiple slots on TX, have different TX settings for each slot for same 1 car.)
Spektrum has since moved onto DSMR (with DSM2 fallback)... supposedly faster, whoopee I don't race much. Their newer TXes DX4 then DX5 don't feel any better than my 3s and I haven't yet found a need for 4th or 5th channel so no need to upgrade. Plus there's rumours that they don't talk to clone DSM2 RXes.
For cheap RXes the Flysky ecosystem can't be beat. You can buy computer radios like GT3B/C etc with memories... they work ok, just feels a tad lightweight & plasticky; my biggest beef is their computer settings are often "opposite" to what I'm used to. I'm still using Flysky for single-model TXes mainly; there's several different brands of TXes that will work on same system. (Flysky RXes store the unique code broadcast by each TX. You can sync multiple RXes to 1 TX and they'll all work together simultaneously.)
Fancy Flysky have lipo option, but I don't see anything wrong with AAs. Good brand LSD AAs last long enough, easy to buy new ones when the cells get old. I don't mind 8AAs or 4AAs, extra weight brings stability.
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When your eyes turn ‘vintage’ ...
in General discussions
Posted
Which one?
over the years there's at least 3 Death Stars, 2 giant Millenium Falcons, half a dozen Star Destroyers...
Funy you mention "...as a kid", few wks ago was thinking about all the kids from school that DID have huge fleets of fancy toys BiTD.
I don't think any of them today are into retro Tamiya.
Maybe that's the trigger that got *us* all addicted today... we didn't get given everything we lusted for back then.