WillyChang
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Posts posted by WillyChang
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How do you even *open* those darned things... just trying to see if I can replace the antenna wire on the 1 that I have.
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Ya, I know there's a few guys who are cluey enough to fix RC electronics (and I've made friends of most of them down here!) but the old CPR units used to be "potted".
Imagine the usual electronics on the board, now just cover every inch & crevice with epoxy then close the lid. Made the unit very robust, less chance of impact & water damage etc etc.
But also makes it impossible to fix, as unless you try to chip the epoxy off there's no way to touch anything on the board. Unless anyone has a better idea these days...
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Might be a tight fit in the hole (those Mabuchi 3-piece cans are a little fatter than chromecans), there's no screws to hold it and definitely the motor cover would need to be modified (wires both come out on 1 side).
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quote:Originally posted by njmlondon
id="quote">id="quote">I have been coming up against a bloke called Callum on ebay recently over a load of 959 stuff. Not sure which country he lives in but he seems to have quite a collection building including a Gr.B, 959s and a Lancia 037. There may be two Callums out there into old Tamiya but its a relatively rare name.
I think the Aussie one was a fan of Bruiser and Frog only.
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quote:Originally posted by njmlondon
id="quote">id="quote">Are CPRs worth buying? They seem expensive and ridiculously hard to buy in the UK. My 959 does not fit a CPR, but I am thinking of getting a new Tamiya like the F201 - do you reckon it is worth finding one for something like that?
Nup! They're impossible to fix, wouldn't bother unless someone gave you one free.
F201 is cramped but you can easily still fit a tiny RX and tiny ESC in that 2 sq-in spot, the wonders of modern electronics.
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And for Tamiya "rubber tube" friction shocks, also try:-
honey
lithium axle grease
vaseline
vegemite/promite/marmite
nutella
Tamiya AW grease
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quote:Originally posted by Incredible_Serious
id="quote">id="quote">6. Remove and check oil pump on my 4AGE Sprinter (1:1)
Didn't one of those win its class at Bathurst in the 80s?? [
] Trueno!!Then again, a Ford Cortina won in 1963, a Mini triumphed in 1966 and I was even around when the GTR reigned supreme 10 yrs ago... [
] pity all those kiddies who are led to belive agricultural Holden/Ford V8s are the bees' knees. -
Schueys are definitely available here, the Mission is pretty popular on the tracks. However this is a top-range kit, and runs with the big boys with their TBevoIIs, 414MIIs and Pro3s - would probably be a waste of $$ just for backyard bashing.
Really depends on how much experience you've got already... if "not much" then you can't go wrong with Tamiya's TL01 or TB01 range. They come in various rally & road versions depending on shell. They're cheap, workable, easy to build and spareparts available anywhere. Tamiya is usually the safer bet when it comes to after-sales support in Oz.
If its your first car & you're real serious about this hobby, I'd suggest buying a kit and building it yourself. Owning an RTR might save on 'building', but you'll be lost come time to fix.
Besides, sometimes I enjoy the building more than running. [
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quote:Originally posted by DJTheoYes its the best way, but you can convert as I said to MPEG2 with virtually no quality loss (DVDs have much higher resolution than MiniDvs) and then edit normal size files.
id="quote">id="quote">
Agree - however I was advised we should only downcode at the end, otherwise each time its opened up and edited, there's another generation of loss. True?
quote:Btw, when you say you can do a job, its better to be sure yourself you can do it or know that you can trust the one you give it to...id="quote">id="quote">
Aiyah, don't need to say. Thinking about it each month that passes... and ARRRGGH - he's also got the WEDDING TAPES!! [:0]
quote:Isn't that what I wrote above? You can't admit that MPEG1 was wrong, do you? []id="quote">id="quote">
TOO RIGHT!!! [}
] Heh heh heh...Okie, I'll concede... [
]you're right.I'll have to drown my loss sorrow this weekend by watching my degraded VHS copy... [
] (180 mins, PAL format) -
Wouldn't be too surprised.
Imho it wasn't a very big seller, all I keep hearing is many of the national distributors around the world are disappointed with its sales vs expectations. Market positioning is a bit unclear - ie is it a monster truck? (too tiny next to a TXT1) Or a kiddy toy? (too expensive & fragile). Really, I think it was mostly bought by Willy fans, not total newbies; Even in early 2001 shops were already discounting the kits.
Yet I am still backordered on every WW2 sparepart through the 'official' channels... haven't seen any arrive yet in the last 3 yrs. [
] (yes, I know Tower stocks them, thanks) -
Lookin' SMOOTH, Chris!! [^]
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Ya, that's the "early" one!! [
]Got me all confused too when I found one supplied on a Wheeler. The motor and battery wires are meant to go thru the lid instead of the slots on the side. Early lid also doesn't have any hole to screw Wheeler's driver to - so *that* was the real confusing bit. [
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quote:Originally posted by The_incredible_Fred
id="quote">id="quote">Unfortunally, there is no screw and i can't see, where the two halfes are connected (pehaps clipped) togehter.......
The big packs are like Tamiya's humppacks, they're ultrasonically welded together - so its impossible to open without damage. The only way is to cut it open around the middle line.
Once its open, you'll notice that there are 5 cells inside (with ROOM for a 6TH!!). They are standard D-size nicads; the cheapest ones these days are all easily 3300-4500mAh, or NiMH of 9000-10000mAh.
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quote:
id=quote>id=quote>Willy, what state are you in and do you work at a hobby shop?
I'm in VIC, Stan.
And let's just say I have little desire to work in any LHS here.
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Too true - what is it with neighbours anyway??
I think nitro engines sound GREAT!! (Even at 1am)
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Yup, Oz here too... yes the Terra is about A$1000 here. Not a bad price for something fully set up & ready to run. Think you'll still need to BYO a 7.2V battery pack, charger & AAs for the radio.
Note that it is a gas car, and needs the running-in instructions followed to the letter or else you'll have endless trouble.
Similar cars would be the Traxxas T/E-Maxxes (gas/electric) and Kyosho has the MegaForce too; they're pretty much the same genre & price. These are all not exactly what you'd take racing on tarmac though.
Tamiya also makes electric monsters, eg TXT1.
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Mike:- If you played with a UK-spec 'Compact' CharG (which last I heard only comes in Skyline and S2000), then it'll have a b2.2 motor in it from the box; Oz gets the same.
With the b2.2 its probably too fast to run on even an empty desk or large table... a fullsize pool table would be cool.
The later Jap cars have b1.0 motors, so they're much slower. Boring yes, but hopefully a bit more controllable.
The DigiQs have switchable speeds to slow it down.
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Really depends on your pricerange Stan; & welcome too.
All cars are a compromise - you can't possibly have everything under the same hat. You can buy an offroad car and run it onroad, but a dedicated touring car will always handle better on the tarmac.
Any cars that you like?
Have you checked what's available?
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quote:
id=quote>id=quote>Maybe need to do your baseball bat training?
LOLNah, definitely can't use bats on teddybears - the bear presevation society wouldn't like that!!
Waaay outnumbered by bears around here, nearly as many as RC cars.We've got the 18" Supertoy Teddy from AI so some even talk - Supe is spooky enough as is even before he starts yapping away.
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Good on ya, Alex. Have fun!!
Say, there used to be another TFTR fella... about 2 yrs ago he seemed pretty desperate for old stuff too, he tracked me down out of the blue even. I think his name was Callum or Callan or something, drove a wagon with Channel 7 or 9 on the side. You know him? Haven't seen him around TFT for a long while now.
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Interesting reading, but nothing new.
Yes camera writes in "DV" format... but what does it become after I've streamed it to HDD? (eg using say Final Cut Pro, or Adobe Premiere).
Is it still DV? Or has it become some MPEG derivative - the files on the HDD are approx 20GB/hr and its supposedly "loss-less" quality compared to the DV original.
We had no way of copying mDV tapes back then, copying onto VHS is lossy and the best we thought up was to dump it onto HDD. (I only had the original tapes for a weekend.)
This is also how we digitise analog video sources - run it through the camera's ADC and get a DV stream in realtime. We thinks this works better than most consumer-priced video digitising cards.
Yes, I know about the MPEG recording on digital cameras both still and video. However MPEG recording is usually direct to solidstate memory, not onto the DV tape. Not particularly impressed by the MPEG movies done on all that I've played with, reminds me of webcam quality.
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Looks like ... REAL ... PLASTIC!
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Excellent, Nilo! Congrats!!
No chance of anyone cutting corners too with those tyre barriers!
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I find it easier to half-fill the shocks, pump them a bit then let them stand upright for a while. When all the bubbles have risen only then I fill them the rest of the way - I think its faster this way.
Whatever oil I'm using, I stick it in an old Tamiya Damper Oil bottle (or Kyosho) just to have the squeezy bottle & spout. Recycle!
]
] pity all those kiddies who are led to belive agricultural Holden/Ford V8s are the bees' knees.
]you're right.
] (180 mins, PAL format)
LOL
Super Champ
in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
Posted
Nah, not much point. You'll have to muck about with pins & screws, sometimes the 2 bits don't even match up exactly and you don't need the RR/SS shockmounts anyway.
Plus all that gear would be way heavier than 2 cableties.