WillyChang
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Posts posted by WillyChang
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Oh... pls find that "CAPSLOCK" key on your keyboard.
There is a reason its there...
no need to shout, we're all pals here. -
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id=quote>id=quote>I HAVE JUST LOOKED THROUGH MY BOX OF BITS AND FOUND TWO MOTORS BOTH SAY"MABUCHI" ON THE BLACK PLASTIC END. ONE HAS 380 ONE 540 MARKED IN TIP-EX ON THE SIDE BUT NO OTHER OFFICIAL LOOKING INFO.
Are they physically the same size?
Becoz the Mabuchi 380 (aprox 1" dia, 2" long) is a lot smaller than the 540 (approx 1.5" dia, 3" long).
The 540 "silvercan" is the standard kit motor for the Boomerang; the Bigwig kit came with Tamiya's special TechniGold motor (same physical size).
Most Tamiya cars take the 540-size, only the very early & beginner cars use the 380.
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id=quote>id=quote>I HAVE BEEN SPENDING MONEY (I HOPE WISELY) I BOUGHT A NEW BATTERY A SAKURA 7.2V 1900 MAH AND A SLOW CHARGER.
Well, you do need batteries if you don't already have some.
As for slow charger, I think they went out of fashion a long time ago.
Kiddies today can't bear to wait overnight charge just to play 5 mins... can get budget peak-detect quick chargers today quite cheaply, they work well.quote:
id=quote>id=quote>I HAVE BEEN INFORMED a forward and reverse, fully waterproof Mtroniks Sonik3 SportRV15 IS WHAT I NEED TO RUN THE DEMON MOTOR. IT COSTS £40 IS IT WORTH IT OR SHOULD I TRY TO REINSTATE ORIGINAL MOTOR?
You already got a radio with 2 servos??
You didn't say...
If so why not clean-degrease-rebuild the car, put the 540 motor in and put the mechanical speed control back in too. Get used to it before trying the "Demon"... if the MSC is in good nick you shouldn't have too many problems - just don't drive slow, or in small spaces.
Just bear in mind that the Bigwig is nearly old enough to get its own driver's licence (18yo!!), parts are hard to get (albeit some bits are shared with the Boomerang) so some caution is recommended.
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quote:It is really hokey how you have to use the zip ties to limit rebound travel.
id=quote>id=quote>Yup... leave them out and we get "monoshock without antiroll bar" syndrome.
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id=quote>id=quote>I also think it' hokey how t=you have to use the zip ties again to mount the rear cage to the roll bar.
Gives it a bit of compliance though... Rear end hit?
Still wondering how the back bumper & arms can get broken...
quote:It seem that some of the design was well thought out but other parts were an after thought. In addition with all the extra metal, this car weighes more than the Rough Rider.
id=quote>id=quote>Agree!
And that's before all the balloons and wrapping to make your radio gear waterproof.
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quote:...i had to make my own cut-outs for the wiring to pass through so it didnt get trapped by the chassis lid.
id=quote>id=quote>Are there 2 holes in the lid to let the wires out?
If so this might be the "first" version Willy.
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Well, they've already paid eBay a commission by that stage...
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Who's this vendor, Al - You know the fella?
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quote:Would be dangerous and hard to do though during the standard dune downhill, or Hilux narrow passing climbs... LOL
id=quote>id=quote>
The videos that Roby has, are they American?? Have never seen those ones before then... maybe MRC commissioned them, using some factory footage? I really dunno!!
The ones I do remember watching are the Japanese ones, they're all shorts like those for the current cars today - No big epics running over 5 mins. Not even sure if they had commentary, probably just background music.
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Pretty sure my 936 has a black butt.
Would it have been common for Tamiya to have used both maybe.
Are they both Mabuchis? Are any "380" made by Johnson?
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quote:
id=quote>id=quote>Why would he want a pearl effect (a bit redish) on his Super Champ wheels???
Same question why too - on some Willy wheels...!!
Actually they came out pretty good; I used white then pearl white on top. It has a colourless shimmer on the top, not quite noticeable.
Either way a lot better than the browned stained plastic.
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id=quote>id=quote>Bigwigs were mostly ballraced and usually people didnt go into the trouble of opening the gearboxes, so you will propably find BBs in the gearboxes at least.
Oooh... have heard of "TA04PRO" cars being sold with bushings minus all its blue beauties, so nothing can surprise much these days...
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id=quote>id=quote>Also the original compination of Technigold and 8.4V is very nice
No mention of the original 540VZ... Swanny?
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quote:Also MPEG-1 is the compression initially made for VideoCDs with a low data rate of 600MB for 74minutes like audio CDs less than 200Kbytes/s, has nothing to do with the high data rates in the DV, 5:1 compression, 3.6 MBytes/s, so better know the stuff well before you put other people down
id=quote>id=quote>
I believe MPEG1 standard was around a bit before VCDs came along and borrowed the whole shebang...?
MiniDV is still strictly MPEG1 format. Ya, correct on the 3.6MB/s = 13GB/hr. I dunno what control-overheads the software has.
Latest MicroMV format now only uses MPEG2.
Either way I've still got 60GB stuck 30kms away and a friend who spends 20hrs/everyday at work...
how? I'd welcome any advice on FireWire external HDDs too!!
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quote:And real translations, not altavista?
id=quote>id=quote>Sorry... my pocket travelguide gives up at "where's the toilet"...
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quote:
id=quote>id=quote>...I have no intention of building, but I can only afford one or the other, the 100th is also a little cheaper. Is there a reason for this?
TF Evo is loaded with Tamiya's hopups; #58100 is mostly plastic.
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Haven't done 787 myself, but was advised its "easier" to mask for paint the orange bits first.
However... the orange is pretty transparent; if you paint green directly on top it'll muddy the orange and result in a wierd (unique?)teal/brown/khaki shade.
Solution is to seal the orange with a layer of white; after white it doesn't matter to the orange what else goes on.
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quote:
id=quote>id=quote>One of my friends had one and said the steering only works when you are moving, if you try and turn then move it's slightly delayed? maybe his isn't working properly?
Yeah, they're just little electromagnetic coils (L/R) attracting a permanent magnet (steering bar) so there's not much torque there at all. With the car stationary on its kit sticky tyres, it has as much hope of turning its wheels as a 4WS Clod with a std 40oz servo.
But lift it off the ground and steering works fine. Works well on the move in any case, so no cause for concern.
Control is non-proportional, so its just like playing Nintendo. Full lock & full speed or nothing... so driving techniques is a little different. Still top fun though!!
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id=quote>id=quote>Toy's are what lifes about, especially one's you use with your GirlFriend , oops sorry!
Playing with gf is what *makes* them troublesome kiddies, y'know..
Think I'll stick to plastic and teddybears. -
I'm told the orange and green can be done from Tamiya's own PS paintcans. If painting orange first, back it with white before putting green over it.
Masking would be your only nightmare, good luck.
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Adding to the trivia list:-
Toyota Celica LB Turbo Group 5 cars are modified stock cars for competition. The International Manufacturers Championship Race is one of the famous events for these Group 5 machines. They also compete in the German International Championship. In Group 5, the Manufacturers Championship Race and also the German International Championships were completely dominated by the extremely successful Porsche 935 Turbo. The Toyota Celica LB Turbo was produced and designed to compete against the Porsche cars. This car made its debut during a Group 5 race which was held as a supporting event for the German Formula One Grand Prix on the 30th July 1977 and its performance was a great surprise to everybody. The basic model is a Toyota Celica Hatchback 2000 GT, and to meet the Group 5 specifications extensive modificationswere carried out on the entire machine. The West German company, Schnitzer, carried out these extensive modifications. The Celica LB Turbo engine which is based on the Toyota 18R type G, was equipped with a special 16 valve cylinder head which was made by Schnitzer. This resulted in a high performance engine which develops about 245 bhp when turned for rally work. For Group 5 races the engine capacity was increased to 2090 cc, and a Kugelfischer fuel injection system was installed. In addition to this a Turbo charger made by KKK was fitted, and the combination of these two additions produced 560 bhp. Modifications were also carried out to the body, except for the bonnet, roof, doors and rail panel, which in Group 5's specifications, may not be altered. All the other parts were made in GRIP (glass reinforced fibre) and the chassis had been so altered that the original shape was hardly recognisable. As a result of these alterations the body itself weighed only 860 kg.
The silhouette formula Celica LB Turbo, which originated in Japan and was modified in Germany, was driven by the well-known Formula One driver, Harald Ertl, and on the 16th October 1977 it was victorious at Solda in Belgium when it triumphed over the usually victorious Porsche 935 Turbo.
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Ya, what a fizzle...
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Said so at Chicago too..
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Looks unfamiliar... did Tamiya repackage the CPR for TT01?
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Looks like an all-new electric chassis, hey?
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quote:60GB??? What did you do with the data??? I meant the original form, digital or analog video tape... Converted to a reasonably format wouldnt exceet 1GB, except if the guy was one week in the musum... LOL
id=quote>id=quote>
Oooh... guess you haven't tried video editing on PC, Theo.
I got the tapes on MiniDV; these are pure MPEG1 stream so for least quality loss they are dumped direct to HDD. Usually comes to about 20-30GB per Hourtape (prior to editing & downverting to a suitable distribution format), and I was given 3 tapes...
This was from the 2001 TamiyaCup - where they had the vintage race.
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Sorry sorry... that should be PS37.
I'm blaming the silly numberpads, why are PC keyboards' numbers reversed compared to a phone's...??!!
no need to shout, we're all pals here.
Kiddies today can't bear to wait overnight charge just to play 5 mins... can get budget peak-detect quick chargers today quite cheaply, they work well.
how? 
Mabuchi motor - timeline?
in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
Posted
No chance, built it new from kit in 1978.
To a little kid, when the manual indicates "grease the rear axle", one greases the WHOLE rear axle... heeheehee. And the whole diff, and the whole pinion - no chance of rust anywhere!!