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Everything posted by robster959

  1. Well, I glued it up with jb weld epoxy. I'll drill or tap a new hole for the screw. Not sure if I'll put a screw in or drill all the way through and go with the bolt and nut. Rob
  2. Hey all, I'm back in action, Tamiyawise anyway. I've got my original Frog and Fox put back together and running. WOOT! Thing is, on my fox on the lower arm in the front, where the shock attaches, there's a crack where the screw is attached. I remember reading way back about a fix, and even seeing pics showing how to replace the stock screw with a bolt and nut setup, putting less stress on the part. I've tried searching for it, but came up empty. Any tips or fixes would be appreciated. I had it out on the track, and wow, what a dream to drive. Great fun. Cheers, Rob
  3. Hey all, I picked up a DF03 that had a slipper clutch installed and was wondering about how to adjust it, and if you had any recommendations. There doesn't seem to be much slip at the moment. I guess you take off the little cap and loosen the nut to adjust it? How do you guys usually set yours? Same thing for the ball diffs - how tight do you like to set them. At the moment they're pretty tight. I'm not sure if that's making it easier to spin out/get sideways or what. Thanks for you recommendations, Rob
  4. Thanks guys. I haven't gotten to driving the DF03 yet as I'm waiting for a part, but I've got a question about suspension on my Blitzer Beetle. I put a 27T stock motor in it and it's much quicker than stock. So much so that when I drive it on the very bumpy, uneven local track, it hits ruts or small bumps on the straight and the rear gets thrown up in the air, or the front will will change direction as it loses control. What kind of sentence was that? I'm not clear on what would help maintain control in this kind of situation. More/less spacers on the shocks, thicker oil, more or less holes on the piston ends? I used to think that rough needed soft setups, and flat/smooth needed stiff. In the past, I always liked watching the Blitzer's suspension work and soak up the bumps on different surfaces. On this track, it seems to be taking a beating, and you can really hear the motor/gears slow down and have to work to get up to speed with each hit they take. Again just wondering if there were any sort of guidelines to follow. ---Ok, I was looking through the guide in the link and found some guidelines for setting shock angles, piston holes, etc... Thanks, Rob
  5. Hey all, I just picked up a used TA05 and DF03, and was wondering what sort differences mounting the shocks in the various holes makes. Or even adjusting the stiffness of the springs on the Aluminum damper set on the DF03. Is there any sort of guide which explains it? Cheers, Rob
  6. Hi, I also found a manual for the TA05 I just bought as well. I found it using the "manual for the first chassis" guideline. My car was the FXX, but I got the manual for the TA05 chassis kit. I've already ordered the Keen Hawk part - it's in the B parts. came out to $8.50 US. It was the only part broken on a like-new Keen Hawk, with the Tamiya aluminum shock set, slipper clutch, futaba esc and a 19T motor. For $40!!!! Canadian!!!! Thanks again, I'll be waiting for the part to come so I can try her out. Rob
  7. Hey thanks, I didn't realize Tamiya posted their manuals - I looked on here for dark impact manual, but didn't think to check there. Cheers, Rob
  8. Hey all, Anybody know if there is a Keen Hawk manual online anywhere? I picked up a used Keen Hawk, but I need the part # for a broken part. I wouldn't mind having the manual so I know I'm putting it back together right . The part I need is a sort plate that sits under the front gearbox, and has the lower arms attaching to it with long pins. Thanks, Rob
  9. Ok, I got the motors and put one in my boat. The sticker on it said it was about 21500 rpm at 5.0v. I'm not sure how many rpm that is at 7.2v, but the boat was faster than with the graupner 500 race in it. If the motor is not getting dirty, what sort of maintenance interval should I use? How often should I take it out and clean it? I remember with the technigold it had instructions showing how to scrape the comm with a toothpick in the grooves, and rub it with an eraser. Same thing for this? I was going to put the other one, it's an Epic as well with a green can, in the Blitzer and see how that goes. Cheers, Rob
  10. Is it possible to get a hard case to put other lipos in? For example if you had a regular lipo, could you put in a hard case to protect it? Does anyone make these? Cheers, Rob
  11. Well, I was looking around on ebay and found a couple of motors that seemed pretty cheap. I don't know anything about them, but they seemed like a good deal. One was a Trinity KC racing 27t stock motor, the other an Epic green monster stock motor. Any thoughts on these? Cheers, Rob
  12. I've got a Kyosho Fairwind and a Thunder Tiger Victoria. At the moment I only have the one winch servo - a GWS job. I was reading a while back that a stronger, higher torque regular servo would also do the job, as opposed to a dedicated winch unit. Any suggestions on a good value servo that would be up to the job? Cheers, Rob
  13. I just found an other option other than the LVC - there are Low voltage "alarms" on ebay that are about $5 shipped. They have a buzzer or siren of some kind and flashing LEDs. They plug into the balance plugs, and monitor the voltage I guess. I was considering an external balancer, but wasn't sure of the price. It seems there are some pretty cheap/simple balance chargers out now. I'm really considering those 2 lipos for $30 now. It seems I wouldn't need much to get them running safely in my buggies or boats. Nice long run times is what I'm looking for with them. Cheers, Rob
  14. I guess to run Lipo, cheap or otherwise, you need to get some sort of LVC or voltage cutoff. I'm not really ready to switch over to a quality lipo setup or cells. It's just that I saw these lipo packs for $30 US for two, shipped. I figured I'd be able to get nice long runtimes in my vintage cars, or boats. Only thing is the voltage cutoff, and the fact that my old lipo charger doesn't do balancing. And I have to solder my own connectors to the pack. It seems like current wise they might be ok. Rob
  15. Hey all, Just wondering about how many amps a stock can motor would draw in a "typical" setup. For example in buggy such as a Blitzer Beetler, or something older like a Frog. I know there are lots of variables involved, but let's say ballpark. I'm asking because I was eyeing some cheap lipo packs on ebay. They were 4000mah 2 cells - with these specs. * Capacity: 4000mAh * Voltage: 7.4V * Cells : 2 * Burst Rate : 15C * Continuous discharge rate: 10C * Size :145mm x 47mm x 12.5mm * Weight: 175g I'm just not sure of how many amps are typically drawn from a stock can motor, or a 27t stock motor. Thanks, Rob
  16. Thanks for the motor suggestions. I'm not racing, so I don't need every last ounce of power. I don't mind taking it apart and cleaning it. If the brushes last more than few runs, that should be ok too. Rob
  17. Hey all, I was hoping to find a faster motor, something like a 27 turn stock motor, or 23 t, etc... that wouldn't need a lot of maintenance such as frequent brush replacement, a comm lathe, etc... I'd like to increase the speed of my Blitzer Beetle for bashing on a local off road track. The track holds races with Losi xxx type buggies with 27t stock and 19t motors, and they've added some larger jumps and table tops. Thanks, Rob
  18. Hey all, I'm looking for a 15T pinion for my Blizter Beetle and was wondering if the pinion in the TAMIYA 50239 BUGGY PINION GEAR SET 15T 16T would fit. Thanks, Rob
  19. Guys, Looks like it's the sr3000. Guess I'll give it a shot. Thanks again, Rob
  20. Hey Guys, Thanks for your help. I'm not sure what is meant about the connector solution yet, but I checked the site and see that it does indeed list the voltage range. I remember trying to find that out in the past by checking the manual, but don't remember seeing that. I better check my receiver to see if it is the exact same model. Rob
  21. Hey all, I wanted to use my Tamiya esc (the basic one that comes with the kits) with my Spektrum receiver. Now, the esc doesn't have BEC built in, and neither does the receiver. Has anyone used their Tamiya esc with the Spektrum setup? I don't want to blow the receiver, and think I probably will if I sent the full 7.2v to the receiver. I would be interested in hearing if anyone has had success, or a solution. Happy New Year, Rob
  22. I think I got my bearing set from them before. Not sure though. I'm thinking maybe get a set of 4 that aren't the bargain type. Maybe those blue rubber sealed ones. Maybe that would also help eliminate the movement of the inner ring. Rob
  23. I'll take a close look at the gears, but comparing all my gears to the NIP ones I have, I can't see much difference. Only wear I see is in the shafts, and the sloppy bearings. Anyone know where to get individual 850s? cheap? Rob
  24. Thanks guys, Will have to see what I can get my hands on. Rob
  25. Hey all, Well, my 959 always developed a nasty grinding noise under hard acceleration after a run or too and I was never able to pinpoint it. There were a few areas I thought might be the cause. At first I thought it might be that the tiny c clips that hold the shafts in on either side of the box were not tight enough. The shaft were very loosely seated and had a lot of play - not in and out, but up and down for a lack of a better way to describe it. Basically they wiggled when you moved them. So I looked and say they were worn down a bit where they seat into the bearings/ball races. I figured this would probably be it. I bought a gear set that came with all of the gears, and bevels, including new c clips. I also picked up the gearbox shafts. I just got them and test fitted the bearings/ball races on the shaft without putting them in the box. I was certain that I would be impressed how little play there would be, but the there is exactly the same amount of "slop" I looked closer, and noticed that movement isn't between the shaft and the inner ring of the bearing where it contacts the shaft - it's between the inner and out rings of the bearing. It's as thought the bearing is worn, or loosened up. I think these are the 850 bearings. Before I put in the new parts, I'd like to know if anyone has a similar looseness in the gearbox shafts or their setup. Or even in their ballraces. Maybe it's that my bearings are shot/poor quality? Rob
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