robster959

I agree with you on enjoying it as it was designed. So, in the manual it say the longer arms offer minimum camber - is this to say that these would give the most oversteer? Likewise, the shortest arms off maximum camber, and therefor the least oversteer? I've had the car out once on the track so far for about 20 min., doing a lot of tight cornering. I've noticed that inside edge of the tires seem to be wearing faster than the outside - would this be caused by my setup using the long arms at the moment? would changing the angle change the wear? Thanks, Rob

Hey all, For the record, which arm lengths on the 959 rear suspension will induce more oversteer - the long or short? And does anybody have any personal recommendations for setups for both the offroad tires and the slicks? Thanks, Rob

Wow, Thanks for detailing your experiences. It's interesting to hear what really goes on at these races. That's one thing I'm not interested in - getting too serious, with the setups, racing packs, etc... And of course, I like the sound of all that passing. I'm hoping to have races that are really close, with most guys close to each other when the corners come up. Was just looking at the track today where I plan to do this, and am pretty excited about getting started. Thanks again, Rob

Straightspeed2, Could you explain what you feel makes the mini racing so much fun compared to the touring cars? Thanks, Rob

Hey all, Was just looking through the old Tamiya R/C guidebooks and saw the section on building your own track. It got me itching to start digging, but how realistic is this? Anybody done one, not at a big club level, but just one to race with friends? Rob

Guys, Was wondering about the wet sanding, as I hoping to try it on my 959 shell, which I've decided to paint on the outside. Let's say you sand your final coat with 1000+ grit - how do you get it shine? Thanks, Rob

Thanks. Also wondering if these would fit on a "standard" chassis - TA05, etc... Rob

Gorgeous Bug. Both of them. Anybody know if the chrome headlight rings on the Beetle body will fit the Blitzer Beetle/Baja Bug shells? Rob

Lars, Nice work on the Audi. I was thinking of using regular TS spray for more of a shine, and then use some laquer spray for a top coat. I don't know anything about laquer paints, but on tamiya101 there is a guide for painting hard shells, and that's how they do it. I'm trying to get as much shine as I can. I'm just not sure of how to repair teh the holes and cracks. I know to glue a shell together shoe goo is recommended (went to the B&Q but couldn't find any) but to build up the corners and the lights on the roof, I was thinking I'd need some harder and sandible - Tamiya Putty? Rob

Hey all, Well, I've decided to throw in the towel. After trying to "restore" my 959 shell, and trying to get the paint off, I give up. What started as a decent body with only a few cracks in the corners is now a foggy, tattered mess. Even if I could get the rest of the paint off, I don't think I'd be able to fill in the holes and cracks, I don't think it would be possible to hide the repairs very well. I was thinking, if only this was a hard shell, then I could fill in the holes, sand it down and paint over it. So, if I managed to fix all the body damage and followed the painting tips for hard shells (sanding, clear coats) would it be possible to get a decent looking body out of it? Please say yes. Thanks, Rob

Hey all, I'd like to turn X6 orange flat, and have the X21 flat base. Any tips on how to do it? What proportions should I use? Thanks, Rob

Is there any value to a NIB Taisan Porsche bodyset? Rob

Would this body fit on the Mini cooper M-03 chasis? Can this bodyset be bought seperately? The Wheels? Thanks, Rob

Hi, Could you give a rough estimate of runtime on a stock kit mini with a 3300 pack? I'm wondering how long a pack will last while running on a road track. Thanks, Rob

HunterZero, Thanks for that. I guess I could try to order that a LHS then. And yes, I did put full bearings into the car. I'm hoping that the 15T will give a little more top speed. Thanks, Rob

sosidge, Thanks for your input. I've already started passing the word around and I'm hoping that most of people I've mentioned it to are game. I guess we won't be using a timing system, and I hadn't thought about the marshals. When I race around the baseball diamond with my friend we never flip, so it slipped my mind. I'm leaning toward laps races. I was trying to come up with an approximate minimum cost for a newbie with no equipment to get into this. I figured they'd need the mini kit, bearings, basic radio and charger. I wasn't sure how many battery packs though. I can get 3300man nimh packs for a decent price locally. I think this would be a better choice than 18mah nicds. Is it realistic to think you could use 3300 pack for 2 or 3 5 min. races? If it is, then is 3 a good # of packs to get? Since it would be just us, there wouldn't be any delays between races. Just back to the start to go again, so there wouldn't really be any long breaks for charging. Just trying to figure out many battery packs each would have to buy. Thanks again, Rob

Hey all, I'd really like to get a bunch of friends together and start a little mini cooper racing club. I was hoping to keep everyone running a stock Mini, and have everyone use the same batteries. I want it to be more about driving skill than tuning, and to keep things even. I was wondering, what is the best to way to handle the races? Are races typically a set # of laps, or are they a fixed time? If they are a fixed time, how does it work - most laps in the given time? What would good time per race be? If we got together say, once a week, how many races would a good amount per meet? Do you score like an F1 series? I know these are a lot of questions, but I really have no idea about how actual r/c racing works. I was hoping to get around 5 or six people together. Would this be too few/too many? Oh, and how about a timing lap system - exactly how much do these things cost? Is priced so that it's really only meant for a large club with membership? Thanks a lot for your help, I'm really hoping I can get something together. Rob.

I heard it might also be the motor, but if it is, it is only when under load. When I popped the motor immediately after hearing the sound, the motor sounded fine. Rob

Hi again, Got in touch with James and he set me straight own how to remove the bushings. Thanks for the heads-up! Rob

Hey all, I was thinking about using the optional 15T pinion in my Blitzer Beetle? With the stock can motor, what kind of difference in performance would there be? Are these hard to get, or are they readily available, like current pinions? Thanks a lot, Rob

Hi Kev, Just wondering if you know how to push the old bushings out in order to put the new bearings in. Thanks again, Rob

Hey all, I've been running my Tomahawk lately (racing around with friend's Falcon), but the last couple of times after running for a bit, a screeching sound started developing. I've taken it apart and found no trouble with the gears or anything. I was thinking maybe the stock bushing in the box are maybe heating up, expanding and causing some sort of binding? Whatever the case is, I wanted to replace the stock bushings with bearings. I know there is or was a set of Tomahawk bearing on ebay. I'd like to get them, but when I was trying remove the stock bushings I found I couldn't get them to budge. I'm talking about the ones where the axles enter the box, and the other pair above those. I don't want to break anything, and I'm not even sure at this point if they were meant to come out. Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks for your help, Rob

I'm also wondering if this would work for paints other than lexan paints. James, Do you have any brand names for those acetone free nail polish removers? I've used 25% nitro fuel to strip paint of off my 959 shell, but it really caused a lot of clouding in the platic. It's strange because depending on the angle you at the body, the clouding gets worse. I've pretty much ruined the shell, and there are lots of tears and cracks in it now. The front and rear bumpers will have to be glued back together. All this, and I still can't get the paint out of the nooks and crannies. Rob

Hey all, My Kyosho Tomahawk comes with rubbery sleeve that covers the motor, and my old Fox used to have a "rubber bag" fit over the endbell. Is there any point in using these covers? Do they cause excess heat in the motor? I'm just using the stock motor. Rob

Well, I just read another thread thread that they no longer make fender mender, so I guess I'll have to try shoe goo. As far as prepping the 959 goes, it's not going well. I got some 25% nitro fuela and managed to get the majority of the paint off, but it's making the the plastic a bit cloudy and brittle. With all the handling, cracks are showing up everywhere, and parts of the front and rear are detached at the seams. I have no idea how I'm going to get the paint out of the nooks and crannies, as it's getting really fragile and I can't really rub in the smaller spaces. Rob