Slyp Dawg

ok, I went by the HT yesterday and the guy said that any body should do, so I guess I can either use that yokomo body or a Vixen Toyota GT-ONE body if they come back in stock in the next week or so. but the look of the repsol escort shell is starting to grow on me with its new shoes and stickers and stuff: and here is is in the state that it was in when I got it: ^ Ford or Mopar enthusiasts will cry foul at this one, a Ford, a Dodge and a Crysler all in one pic! and some guys will cry foul because the ford isn't blue and the Mopars aren't red ^ yes. I am a picture whore, but the guys at scale4x4rc made me that way! honest!

two words: don't crash. that should help alot, right? lol

wait. with the F103 GTP shells (aka mcmerc C11 or Porsche 956 or Toyota TS-ONE), are the wheel outer diameters about the same as on a regular TC? if so, would I be able to fit a F103 GTP shell on the F103GT? ofcourse, I could just get the ferrari F40 and BL-ify it and stock up on extra tires

in that case, what about a F103GT chassis under the same basic setup? aka Velociti 4.5R and wide rear tires? also, would front setup wheels be a good choice for low rolling resistance or should I just narrow a set of regular tires so that the wheels match up front to rear?

ok, after seeing someone do a complete custom build up of a FWD drag civic I thought that I would turn my pretty much lifeless TL-01 subie GB rally into a drag car instead of a parkinglot racer (which I had originaly planned on doing). so far in my fictional drag spec-up cart on tower I've got: Speed Tuned gear set Carbon prop shaft 2 pairs of Tamiya wide racing slicks (part number 50547) 2 pairs of wide 2-peice 5 spoke wheels (part number 50673) HPI 200mm Nissan Skyline Novak Velociti 4.5R BL motor system ofcourse I plan on getting a custom 10 cell saddle pack made for it and custom battery hold-on peices to support the outer 3 cells so that I can have some real grunt. does this sound adequate for killing drag cars or should I use a brushed motor?

dang, even the front knuckle design is the same as the yokomo! idea: maybe tamiya is distributing for yokomo or the other way around, which would explain the why the cars appear to be identical twins. but I do think that this thing will be run along side the DI TRF, kinda like the 414MS and the TB evo 5 or yokomo MR-4TC and MR-4BD comp TCs

to me, everything mechanical wise is neutral to me. but that does not apply to people, mind you

gimme one NOW! I really want one!

for me, unless it suffers a mechanical failure or lacks electronics it is a runner. yup, even my JRX2 Pro SE or my soon to be here Streetwise rally car, and most deffinitely my tamiya TL-01 (needs front CVDs! danged dogbones keep popping out of the stub axle at full lock steering (aka my fav. kind of steering lol) and it broke my stock servo saver and ended up toasting my plastic geared servo's gears)

hey, I've got a quattro S1 from modelsport.co.uk (seems kinda odd since I live in the USA but it is true) now all I need to decide on is a color. that's the hard part unfortuneatley

since this is a tarmac race on relatively dark (aka relatively new and not very faded like most roads) asphalt, but with the normal nooks and crannies I figured I'd use something treaded that was optimised for parkinglot racing (aka HPI Vintage tires). but a rule set for each class will become availible in early june (the first of the two races at my HT is on june 18, second on august 13) so then I'll know about the rules on bodies. hopefully I'll be able to run a 200mm nitro sedan body on this chassis (aka opening my choices up to bodies like the Countach or that yokomo class C body or an escudo or something) and treaded tires. and with the body, if it had to be a TC I'd get a pre-painted '04 HPI impreza like what appears on their new sprint 2 chassis, or maybe a HPI Toureza body

eh, about the body, this is only on a stock class motor and it will not be just for racing, but for tarmac bashing as well (for dirt driving I'll put the excort shell back on). I take it that a carson audi quattro S1 wouldn't be any better? would a HPI Escudo Pikes Peak be a better choice? what about a Vans Invent Lowla LT/10 group C shell? you would think that the downforce from the body would make the thing handle like a dream. if neither of those would be good, any suggestions other than the stratos's (stratii?) or mazda6s? I just don't want my blast from the past to become just another generic looking comp. TC. no matter how well you can paint, it is still a widely used mazda6 touring shell. maybe if I got it painted like the 1:1 mazda6 touring car, but my painting skills aren't up to that and I don't think that you can get a sticker set for them. but by stratos, would that also include a lancia stratos? also, this would be my first time racing and the metal geared versions of the 645 are actualy cheaper than the metal geared version of the 625. plus, I am not real likely to notice a .05 travel time difference and I would want the extra torque for other things like navigating pine needles (very common due to a row of pine trees by my driveway) and other activites (drifting on dirt or tarmac) that put alot of strain on a servo.

yeah, thanks! as far as opening up the holes, I don't mind, as it would only be like every 6-12 months that I would have to do that anyway. remembering to do that, now that's the hard part lol. anyway, how do you think that a trinity CO27-equiped streetwise would fare against say, a TC4 or a XXX-S or a Pro 4 or something with a good stock motor? ofcourse a new set of rims/tires and a new body (me be eyeing an HPI Lotus Elise 2000!) are in order, but other than that what do you think? would a Hitec HS-645MG be enough grunt to turn the wheels? (133 oz-in of torque and a travel time of .20 seconds, plus dual bearings and metal gears) oh yeah, and these do make good rally cars, right?

hey, I'm a few hours away from getting bmwe's T-tech streetwise rally car to use instead of my TL-01 in a weekend parkinglot race and I want to know if the streetwise serise used a 12mm hex. so does it?

try a dynamite prophet plus LCD. dynamite makes great chargers and this one is ajustable, as it can charge 4 to 7 cells at a rate of .5 to 4 amps. since it would be coming from the states (horizon is dynamite's US and only distributer) the AC part might be a problem as if you live in Britain the 220 volt would fry the charger. alternately you could get a DC peak charger and a power supply, which would be about the price of a good compotition charger. if you live in the UK you could get it from a US place (tower hobbies or horizon hobby for example) and get the same stuff for a better price than what you'd get localy due to the USD not doing so well against the pound in exchange rates. hope this helps!

the D-ring outdrive problem was only a problem with the pre-january '05 batch, after which it was fixed. but if yours seems to have any diff slippage, take the ring gear out with the two diff halves apart, take the D-ring out, get some glue and glue it on. wait for the glue to dry and then sand off the excess that squirted out of the side. also, the GPM 57 tooth spur gear is a good idea, as it is alloy meaning less chances of it getting mauled. plus, if you use the 60 tooth gear cover (good idea because the stock one prolly won't clear) you'll have a bit of extra clearance incase any small debris gets into the area. also, a large front bumper (BRP, RPM and integy/topcad all have these, tho I'd recomend the integy/topcad one due to it being alloy and not sticking out as far as the others) will help protect the shocks in the event of a crash. that is all I can think of right now. hope it helps!

well, on the front (in front of the front body post) it has JRX2 stamped on it. but if the pro-SE is infact what I have, will a regular JRX2 body fit it?

ok, I have a losi JRX2, lacking everything except a body (stuck modern day elecs in it because I plan on running it) and after seeing the performance upgrade kit (which included a longer graphite chassis and matching body) I am confused about what body I should get. the chassis is a tub-like chassis (well, more like the old RC10 gold pan chassis's in shape/design) with no provisions for the wonkey (atleast to me) 5-link setup (how do those things work anyway and what advantage is there to having such a setup anyway?). the wheelbase is spot on with my Evader BX. is this the stock length or the extended length chassis? oh yeah, and will a RC10 Viper body fit this chassis?

gimme something like a hilux (only 4-linked with TLT shocks) and I'll be happy. ofcourse, the old RRs were sweet too

ya, that's the TL-01 I have, I've been meaning to convert it to onroad but I have never gotten around to it. pretty good car for the money too, just lacks bearings or oil shocks (what a suprise huh) but it does have the E-clip hingepins and turnbuckles and the long suspension arm kit, just no swaybars like what come with the LA upgrade kit for normal TL-01s

hm, a 4WDS would be interesting. but the hardbody part might not be the best thing for my driving style, maybe I can dye the entire body about the color or metal (aka a greyish color) and then paint it so that when it scratches it looks like there's metal under it! ofcourse, dyeing it the color I want might be a kinda good idea too. that way even if I roll over or scratch it on accident, it'll be the same color so that it won't show through as much. ideas ideas...... wonder what a 1850 body would look like on this? just get some hummer rims and do the narrow/make-smaller trick on some scale-looking tires and glue them to the rims and stick them on here and it could pass for a mini dakar rally 1850! oh yeah, and MikeT, I did come over from scale4X4rc

you guys do know that the trinity monster offroad tires (and monster radials and slicks) for the RC18 and spyder and mini-t will fit M-chassis rims, right? all they require is narrowing. and that also means that with some creativity and stuff that regular sized RC18 tires should fit (the AE monster tires included) tho they will be lower profile than the monsters. just an FYI. I kinda like the looks of this, but personaly ima gonna pass on this, as I am not too sure about the benifits of a FWD car in RC. in the full size world they're ok, but I'd rather have either RWD or 4WD

hey, guys, I read earlier in the thread that there is a one-way bearing in the rear gearbox center-shaft output (or atleast that's what I've gathered). is this true, or did I just put 2 and 2 together wrong? and with the diffs, how easy is it to assemble and mantain them? I've owned three and run two (outside at full clip, kinda like a maniac) vehicles with ball diffs (RC18T and Evader BX, the third is a old losi JRX2) and at minimum gotten into the diffs of those two, as well as ajusting them, but I have honestly never built a ball-diff from the ground up. for someone with my limited-at-best experience with ball diffs, would the DI's diffs pose much difficulty to me, or should would I have no troubles with it. the rest of the building should be no problem for me, as I have built one kit and tore-down and re-built a few others, so I know my way around them pretty well.

eh, if it is real (which I hope it is for all the people who want a bruiser but can't justify or afford to get an original) then I might buy one, depending on what is included, the price, and what I hear in the form of reviews and such. hopefully it won't be too expensive (maybe $100-$150) and will preform relatively well for what you get. I just hope it is full-time 4WD (aka no free-wheeling front hubs or RWD-only gears like the original had) and comes with atleast tranny bearings (doubt it tho, as tamiya is notorious for leaving out bearings in their kits unless it is a race-ready kit (or the TB chassis line)) as I doubt that companies like duratrax will have a bearing set out relatively quickly (DTX has a good price for the bearing sets from what I can see) and I doubt that the bearing sizes will be readily availible in the begining. even if they were, I wouldn't want to hunt through all of Tower or whoever to try to complete a set of bearings for the thing. also, I would like to see a ESC provided, or nothing, as I don't want a MSC that would either sit around un-used or mean me not buying one. other than that, I wouldn't really have any complaints (ok, maybe kill the slipper, as I doubt that with a presumeable hardbody and leaf-sprung solid axle suspension that many people who buy them will do crazy stuff with them)

ok, I am a prospective Kyosho Zaboon Readyset owner, and I wanna know if it comes with bearings. if not, will the Pureten Alpha 2 (the electric shaft driven one) bearings work? this might sway my decision between this and a Tamiya Blazing Star